Johnnie at Audio Origami did a great job on mine, wouldn't hurt to get a quote from him:
www.audioorigami.co.uk
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Johnnie at Audio Origami did a great job on mine, wouldn't hurt to get a quote from him:
www.audioorigami.co.uk
Hi Jeff.
You know anyone in Midlands who can help me to rewire the tonearm? Or i can drive about 50 miles, if required. thanks
I forgot to mention that i have took the tonearm out a few months ago, because up and down mechanism needs greasing. I have seen some you tube videos and positive that i can do this. Its more risky to post your TT for rewire I think, because the guys who worked in courier companies they do not handle parcel with care.
Hi, sorry I dont know anyone personally.
I've heard of Audio Origami, so might be an idea to see how much they would charge, you could just post the arm to them.
And yes, it is diy do-able, but its a horrible fiddly job..
I just rewired the tonearm with Cardas 33 awg and carads solder. It took me 4 hours to rewire the arm, but its worth in the end. The sound is much better and i can heard base as well. Also sound is much open now. It cost me total £20 and 4 hours. lol. Next step will be Kab tonearm damping. Is external power make any noticeable difference. I saw SL6 make a nice post to upgrade the power supply.
So it is! Although I already have a VDH-rewired Origin Live modded OL1/RB250 arm, I also tried to rewire the stock arm last January. Partly out of curiosity and also because the OL lacks precise and convenient VTF and VTA adjustability. Especially setting VTF on the OL is a real pain in the neck. Setting VTA is so-so with a threaded VTA-adjuster. Both are far better executed on the stock arm.
I also used Cardas 33AWG for internal wiring. For external wiring I chose not-too-expensive Tasker C301 shielded low capacitance microphone cable, which does it's job very nicely. In the end, the OL arm still sounded way better. Maybe because the VDH cable is a bit better than Cardas/Tasker, but surely because the OL arm had far better tracking abilities (very apparent when using a test record for cartridge set-up).
I only encountered one major problem: the two tiny screws which hold the SME headshell connector wouldn't tighten anymore once loosened, no matter what I tried. This caused the SME connector to have 'rotational' play (or was it azimuth adjustability? :scratch:). To fixate it I ended up glueing the connector in the armtube (combined with the two original screws).
Has anyone here who has done the rewire job also come across this problem?
Without getting into silly money, keep the original platter and use a Funk Firm Achromat 1200.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Funk-Firm-A.../dp/B0075VJJR2