Hi Steve
look forward to your commitment we just need a few more to make it happen.
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Hi Steve
look forward to your commitment we just need a few more to make it happen.
You can count me in as well,need a couple of weeks,only just started work again :D
Done & sorted.
Look forward to news on progress :-)
cheers,
Steve.
I'll get it done as soon as I get home.
Mike, installed your MN bearing a long time ago on Sunday 9th January 2011 and its still going great, probably due for a lube again... how often should this be done do you reckon? The notes I made at the time of installation reads, 'straight forward but a bit fiddly', but I've come along way since then :) Could you please confirm on here that the way I secured my MN bearing to the MN base plate, viz: additional threaded screws (three) upwards through base plate and thence into under base flange of MN bearing precludes the whole assembly from being ARALDITED to the body structure of the Tekko. It appears that I have confused some people on this forum?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_New
Thanks mate
Ron.
PS beaut sunshine here in the old country, 28C in my backyard, and the wife decides to defrost the fridge/freezer so I'm forced to down the stock of coldies or find the Esky (the old metal type I brought over with me with the bottle opener on the side, okay, I know you have screw tops now as I found out on my last visit :lol:)
Hi JazzBones,
Firstly the Bearing lubrication:-
The bearing is fitted with a precision honed sintered and vacuum lubricated bearing sleeve. It really does not require much extra lubrication.
Every 6-8 months add three drops of the bearing oil to the top lip of the bearing.
The Bearing Base Plate:--
When I first developed this upgrade, it was designed to be held to the alluminium chassis by five 5mm bolts. (Pete in the US was the first person to suggest this option) This obviously allowed that the bolts could be removed at a later date and the Base plate (and bearing) removed.
The Bearing is held to the Base Plate by three 4mm bolts, which were placed into the Base Plate from underneath and threaded into the Bearing.
So the Base Plate would have to be removed before the Bearing could be un-bolted from it.
However a number of people rightly observed that there was a lot of work and dis-mantleling of the SL1200 in order to fit the base plate using bolts. So I came up with the idea of using Aradite Epoxy resin (the new extra strength) to permanently secure the Base Plate to the bottom of the chassis. This seems to have been accepted by all those who have done it this way, as being much easier and straight forward. It also has the positive advantage that it does not distort the thin chassis by the tightening of the bolts, in the event that the bottom of it is not completely flat.
However there is a caveat to this method!! Once the Base Plate is secured to the chassis it cannot be removed. Therefore, in order to allow the Bearing to be removed separately, the Base Plate is threaded 4mm and the three bolts are now placed through the Bearing from the top and tightened into the Base plate. This allows the independent removal of the bearing.
It should be noted that the Bearing and Coil assembly are secured to the Base Plate by three tensile bolts supplied with the Base Plates. This allows for far tighter clamping of the assembly.
The extra three 4mm bolts which independently secure the bearing to the Base Plate provide an additional level of rigidity to the system for those who wish to include them.
The next batch of Bearings to be manufactured will now include the additional three counter-sunk bolt holes, although this adds to the cost of manufacture.
Hi Mike. What oil do you recommend for this occasional top up? I bought my bearing from your erstwhile UK agent and it came with a little bottle of oil, your site mentions you use a thin synthetic oil and this stuff doesnt look all that thin.
Hi Russell
The oil should be about the viscosity of general purpose light houshold oil, or that used on sowing machines.
Ok thanks Mike that's definitely thinner than what I have. Any particular brands I could buy in the UK or that you'd recommend to get hold of on import or do I not need to be too particular?
You do not need to be too particular.
I can send you 10mil but the postage alone does not make it very economical.