CS4397 dac

I don't have the dac here at the moment but will have a look when I get it back

thanks leo,

i can't wait to fix it.

hey fellas,


is there anybody interested in selling their unused cs4397 dac? i need one for my bedroom system.....i just need the dac board...

thanks

Can anybody help me, I have lifted the pads of C19. What should I do? Thanks in advance...

The power for the digital bits goes through the C19, the positive enters the AMS117 thingy on its right hand leg( as viewed from top). So what I did, having wrecked the same pad was this:

Soldered poitive leg of cap to input leg of AMS117, and connected that by a wire to the +6V. So the positive is now sorted.

Took a wire from the ground to the negative leg of the cap, and then a connected another wire to the ground side of C21.

The +6V and G are clearly marked on the PCB, I soldered the connections on the underside of the board. A tip here is that the cap is mounted firmly by only one leg, so use wire that is stiff enough to hold it in place.

I turned the thing on and nothing went bang or pfft and the LED came on.

I've found dealing with SMD pads and tiny work areas a real pain, so may get the larger version with through-hole parts.

You might want to get the PDF file for the CS4396 and CS4397 evaluation board
http://www.cirrus.com/en/pubs/rdData...db4396-1B1.pdf

Thanks for help Mr. Magoo. I gave up to work with this tiny fragile Chinese Dac board :steam:.

Many thanks to the contributors in this thread. The CS4397 DAC is my first attempt at a standalone DAC, and I've implemented a few of the mods detailed herein to what I think is very good effect. I've gotten spoiled on the quality of sound this little gem can produce.

I have a question regarding the Toslink socket. I'd like to get it off the board to make room for a possibly hair brained scheme to stack 2 CS4397s in a "Double DAC" for mounting in as small an enclosure as can be managed. Besides that, I'm not likely to ever need it and the thing seems to get in the way too often.

So, can the Toslink socket be simply removed, or does the circuit need to be terminated in some way if the socket has been pulled?

You can just desolder the socket.
I did it to make more room to work, especially when playing around with input caps.

Grazie. My CS4397s will soon be Toslink-less..

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/9773/cs4397.jpg

I read all the post of this tread however I have not found any changes for the electrolites circled in red.

Shall I replace with better quality or better quality and bigger size?