Technics 1210 internal regulation mods

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Originally Posted by REXTON

No worries you are entitled to your opinion ;)

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Spoken like a gentleman, sir!

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Originally Posted by SCUMM

Does anyone have experience with some of the Vantage Audio mods such as:

Mechanical/Electronic Upgrades (not sure what these entail, its been nearly a month and I have yet to hear back from them)

Crystal Reference Mod (this seems to be the highest priced)

Plinth Upgrades

I was also kicking around the idea of the Bottom Base Plate to compliment my bearing acquisition. Based on my readings thus far, I am not quite sure of the benefits if one was still to use the stock platter (for the time being).

I definitely plan on a Hynes power supply but the lower SR5 (it fits the budget a little better)

Basically, I am trying to take care of all internals in one fell swoop.

And if my ignorance wasn't showing enough already :doh: what modifications need to be done when replacing the stock tonearm with, say, a Jelco? I imagine that involves some (de)soldering?

Thanks, Caleb

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Caleb,

You don't need to des older anything with regards removing the tone arm, although it is quite good, you need to remove the plinth and feet, and the metal inner plinth and then simply unscrew the tone arm board which mounts the tone arm. You will be left with a bit hole, you now need a new tone arm board which is designed to accept an alternate tone arm. There are many third party companies which do such an article, search the net and do a little research :cool:

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Originally Posted by REXTON

What's the crystal modification I haven't heard of this one l:scratch:






No worries you are entitled to your opinion ;)

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Hi Andrew

This is something Richard talked about the last time he was at my place (January), it involves replacing the quartz crystal ,but its not just that ? Quite a lot involved but unfortunately I think Richard has been unwell for some time ? And its impossible to contact him at the moment ?

i think i remember reading about this. But I wonder why we need to do this??? The crystal locks wow and flutter levels to extremely small amounts, even very very high end decks cant match the 1210's figures. Now unless we are talking about some other crystal which does some other function I think it's probably left well alone.

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Originally Posted by REXTON

i think i remember reading about this. But I wonder why we need to do this??? The crystal locks wow and flutter levels to extremely small amounts, even very very high end decks cant match the 1210's figures. Now unless we are talking about some other crystal which does some other function I think it's probably left well alone.

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:) Actually Andrew ,that's pretty much what Richard said to me , but some of his customers in Germany wanted to try it ? He feels its a step too far but if people want it and are prepared to pay ? Then well ... they can have it I guess , I won't be going for it that's for sure , possibly some mods to the board maybe .

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Originally Posted by chris@panteg

:) Actually Andrew ,that's pretty much what Richard said to me , but some of his customers in Germany wanted to try it ? He feels its a step too far but if people want it and are prepared to pay ? Then well ... they can have it I guess , I won't be going for it that's for sure , possibly some mods to the board maybe .

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I think some AOSer's looked into it and there was some feedback from a guy that does this sort of thing for a living, I think MartinT might have had similar ideas. Personally if a crystal could be produced that made wow and flutter levels of lets say >0.001% then it might be worth it, but personally I'll hang fire and see what happens!!

A

It's not about wow & flutter, Andrew, more about stability and lack of jitter. After all, the various Superclocks work very well in CD players (I know, I had one fitted to my Sony SCD-1 and it wasn't a small upgrade) so why not in a turntable?

The problem is that the frequency is very unusual and crystals hard to come by except for direct replacements. So creating a Superclock of the right frequency is the issue. I had Mark of Audiocom look at the problem, but there is no solution at present.

However, Purite claim to have done it to the Technics circuit in the Monarch, so it is possible at least in theory.

After correspondence with ACS, they mentioned that they could perform the following:

Replace all electrolytic capacitors with high quality ones
Disable the speed control (pitch?)
Disable the queuing lamp
Disable the Strobe
Install the Mike New Bearing
Install the Internal Regulation Mods

I'm thinking I'm going to have all off the above done. Anything else I have forgotten? Should I have the bearing base plate thrown in?

Hi Caleb,
People say that the Bearing Base Plate does make a noticeable improvement, and this would most certainly be true if you were considering a new platter.
They are now much easier to install, as I have now designed them for fixing by Epoxy which I believe provides a more solid connection to the Alluminum chassis.

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Originally Posted by SCUMM

After correspondence with ACS, they mentioned that they could perform the following:

Replace all electrolytic capacitors with high quality ones
Disable the speed control (pitch?)
Disable the queuing lamp
Disable the Strobe
Install the Mike New Bearing
Install the Internal Regulation Mods

I'm thinking I'm going to have all off the above done. Anything else I have forgotten? Should I have the bearing base plate thrown in?

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You can disable the que lamp by unplugging it and disable the pitch control with a simple jumper, I will take 30 seconds and cost about 10 cents.