The local cats home? :)
The local cats home? :)
Oh, don't worry, we support the Cat Protection League (don't believe in owning pedigree cats, and much prefer moggies), as we do many other charities and good causes. I also enjoy spoiling Del!
Just remember that the Goldpoint project was never about doing things 'sensibly', methodically or cost-effectively: it was about having some fun, learning in the process, and using that knowledge to the greatest benefit in my system.
When I bought the Goldpoint, I knew full well what was likely going to be done to it. It was never EVER designed to be 'fit and forget, or 'plug & play'!
It amuses me no end that others who don't possess the confidence to trust their ears over what a commercial equipment manufacturer has deemed as being 'correct', or practice lateral thinking, seek to ridicule and demean my approach to audio.
It says far more about them than it does about me... Unlike them, I don't need a 'guru' to follow or tell me what's best, as I'm capable of making my own decisions. I just laugh at folk who don't have the gumption to go their own route (and blindly follow someone else's approach), as I know there's a very good chance I'll end up with a far better system than they ever will! ;)
Marco.
No, but it's rather slinky! :eyebrows:
Marco.
Cheers, Jo. Unfortunately, lifting the earth on the Croft has little to no effect here.
Like I said, the hum is very low-level, and can only be heard when putting your ears right up to the speakers. Part of the problem, I suspect, is that because the Tannoys are so efficient, and the Copper amp so sensitive, any tiny bit of residual noise in the system, most likely hidden by other (much less efficient) speakers or sensitive amps, is ruthlessly revealed!
The good thing is that employing the Goldpoint completely eliminates all noise, and so with its potential to usurp the Croft, sonically, for line-level duties, it'll be a win-win :)
Marco.
I have been adding this to everything I make or mod. http://www.epanorama.net/newepa/wp-c...6/earth-f4.gif But with a 20 ohm resistor. I use a binding post on the chassis and another insulated binding post for external signal earth connections. Sort of belt and braces.
http://sound.westhost.com/earthing.htm
Here's one I did earlier. ;)
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...pscczd9jsr.jpg
Sorry, Richard, you'll need to explain what it does in layman's terms, as it's just a load of squiggly lines and components to me!
Marco.
:rolleyes: Right, mains earth is connected to the case. Never disconnect that. From there (back of the binding post), 2 yellow and green wires go to the AC terminals on the bridge rectifier. From the + and - terminals the blue wires go to a screw post which is insulated from the chassis, and then to an insulated binding post (green wire heading out of view to the right). The white resistor and small blue capacitor are wired from chassis ground to signal ground (zero volt line on the circuit diagram). The toroidal transformer and circuit board are nothing to do with it, they are for charging the battery and powering the the remote control boards.
All clear now?
Or just ask a grown-up. :lol:
What it does is provide a safe path to earth via a resistor to drop earth loop current low enough to have no audible effect. The cap allows VHF through to earth, and the high current rectifier provides a failsafe.