Mod your Beresford 7520

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23-06-2010, 14:15
trailer

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinT

AD826.

x2. Frm the op-amps I have tried it is the most realistic. Well, for me anyway. I prefer the "richer" sound but at the same time still having detail.
23-06-2010, 14:33
fmzip

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailer

x2. Frm the op-amps I have tried it is the most realistic. Well, for me anyway. I prefer the "richer" sound but at the same time still having detail.

I am looking forward to trying these too. The LM4562's seem a little bright for me but then again my Nichicon Muse caps just have 30 hours on them....

Did you ever try the 4562's with your B&W's trailer?
23-06-2010, 14:45
trailer

Quote:

Originally Posted by fmzip

Did you ever try the 4562's with your B&W's trailer?

Yes, I've tried pretty much all of the usual suspects I think. I can't exactly recall what they sounded like to be honest! I just remember as others recommend op-amps I tended to get a couple and try them out. I've ended up with an 826 in the line-out and a 2132 in the headphone socket. No headphones used though.
23-06-2010, 17:46
drumlins4ever

Anyone got a spare AD826 they wanna swap ?
I have some OPA2132 , OPA2134 and LM4562NA opamps i could swap for.
Michael
24-06-2010, 22:10
Butuz

After fiddling around all night I have an op amp question.

Stan - can you explain to me the relationship between the fixed/variable op amp and the headphone op amp.

From my experiments it seems if using the fixed/variable outs to my amp - the headphone op amp makes no difference, it can even be removed. Wheras when listening to headphones, the headphone op amp obviously makes a big difference, but also the fixed/variable op amp makes a difference too as if you remove it totally the sound changes and goes much much quieter. Is this the case?

So if I am op amp rolling with the fixed/variable I only need to roll the left hand op amp. But if I am op amp rolling with my headphones, I actually need to roll both op amps. Is this the case?

Also - I noticed that if I remove both op amps, it still produces music!!!! Is this normal??? Can you explain what the op amps actually do?

Cheers from a very confused..

Butuz
29-06-2010, 21:59
AndrewR

Apparently my TC-7520 is coming home tomorrow with the Tirna Mods (Wolfson/Silmic/MuRata/Rubycon/Wima) :)

Tonight I will be mostly doing a happy dance and feeling like a kid waiting for Christmas.

Andrew
29-06-2010, 22:07
Butuz

Very interested to hear if you like it upgraded!!!

Butuz
01-07-2010, 06:32
AndrewR

Hi Butuz,

Just received and plugged in the Tirna-modded Beresford. First impressions are very positive. A more up-front sound (in terms of the soundstage), improved get-up-and-go, faster leading and trailing edges along with an increase in inner detail.

Also it sounds like there is more to come when properly warmed up. I'm probably going to get a nice surprise when I get home from work.

Andrew
01-07-2010, 11:48
Clive

Can someone who has experienced the migration from 7520 to Caiman to fully Tirna modified Caiman apportion some sort of scoring to the changes?

Assuming the mods bring detail, ambiance etc and are positive, does for example going from 7520 to Caiman bring 70% of the improvement and the other mods bring 30%?
01-07-2010, 12:58
fmzip

I have/had a TC-7520 which is now in turmoil from my unending mod adventure. Looks like I cooked my DAC. I am ordering some replacement boards from Stan along with a Caiman hopefully today.

But up to the point of the TC-7520's current status:

1) DAC upgrade is by far the biggest improvement
2) Power regulators come in next

Everything else is subtle, caps etc. If I could do it all over again, I may have just stopped at the DAC change. It was so substantial for replacing a $6.00 chip, it was utterly amazing!
01-07-2010, 14:14
RoboCopper

Quote:

Originally Posted by fmzip

I have/had a TC-7520 which is now in turmoil from my unending mod adventure. Looks like I cooked my DAC. I am ordering some replacement boards from Stan along with a Caiman hopefully today.

But up to the point of the TC-7520's current status:

1) DAC upgrade is by far the biggest improvement
2) Power regulators come in next

Everything else is subtle, caps etc. If I could do it all over again, I may have just stopped at the DAC change. It was so substantial for replacing a $6.00 chip, it was utterly amazing!

Great to hear it,
Can you describe what is the difference in sound?

Also, where can I order this DAC?
As well as power regulators?

This looks like next upgrade :)

thanks
01-07-2010, 16:56
fmzip

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoboCopper

Great to hear it,
Can you describe what is the difference in sound?

Also, where can I order this DAC?
As well as power regulators?

This looks like next upgrade :)

thanks

The Wolfson DAC is stock at Newark
http://www.newark.com/wolfson-microe...741?Ntt=wm8716

The power regulators are stock at Digikey

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...ds=7805+murata
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...eywords=7812sr

You will need a new power supply for your 7520 once you change the regulators. You can order the Caiman power supply or get yourself a linear power supply as I did.
01-07-2010, 20:06
AndrewR

Dodgy Caiman PSU?

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndrewR

Hi Butuz,

Just received and plugged in the Tirna-modded Beresford. First impressions are very positive. A more up-front sound (in terms of the soundstage), improved get-up-and-go, faster leading and trailing edges along with an increase in inner detail.

Also it sounds like there is more to come when properly warmed up. I'm probably going to get a nice surprise when I get home from work.

Andrew

Hi all,

The above still stands, but later listening confirmed some issues I have with my Caiman PSU. Bass seemed restricted and the tune seemed flat (just as it was when I briefly tried it with the original TC-7520) - so I swapped back to my 7520 supply and wow! Bass and tune returned with vengeance.

While I fully understand that the 7520 supply's 12V voltage is probably too low or borderline for the MuRata regulators - the difference is astounding.

Would appreciate some advice here [please :)]. Might consider trying a linear supply, like here.

Andrew

P.S. I am really loving the Tirna mods - the DAC is even juicier, detailed and involving. ...100%
01-07-2010, 20:16
StanleyB

If you have a lack of bass with the Caiman PSU after the mods, then you need a more bassy opamp. The AD826 or THS4032CD would be a good starting point.
01-07-2010, 20:46
AndrewR

Quote:

Originally Posted by StanleyB

If you have a lack of bass with the Caiman PSU after the mods, then you need a more bassy opamp. The AD826 or THS4032CD would be a good starting point.

Hi Stanley,

I'm using an OP2132PA, which has a very fruity and solid bass (how I like it) without getting in the way of what the rest of the music is doing - and the 7520 supply is preserving that characteristic. I think I drew the short straw with this particular Caiman supply.

Oh My Gosh - right now am listening to Infected Mushroom's Viscious Delicious and it is sounding even more evil!!! (for Clive's benefit, 53% more evil ;)) Well done Stanley and Jimmy!

Andrew
02-07-2010, 17:09
Codifus

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndrewR

Hi all,

The above still stands, but later listening confirmed some issues I have with my Caiman PSU. Bass seemed restricted and the tune seemed flat (just as it was when I briefly tried it with the original TC-7520) - so I swapped back to my 7520 supply and wow! Bass and tune returned with vengeance.

While I fully understand that the 7520 supply's 12V voltage is probably too low or borderline for the MuRata regulators - the difference is astounding.

Would appreciate some advice here [please :)]. Might consider trying a linear supply, like here.

Andrew

P.S. I am really loving the Tirna mods - the DAC is even juicier, detailed and involving. ...100%

This is exactly what I experienced with the Caiman PSU added to my 7520, and I have the original regulators. Swapping back to my 7520 PSU brought my 7520 back to life.

CD
03-07-2010, 02:49
fmzip

Quote:

Originally Posted by StanleyB

If you have a lack of bass with the Caiman PSU after the mods, then you need a more bassy opamp. The AD826 or THS4032CD would be a good starting point.

I second the AD826......definitely a richer fuller sound with this op amp.

Also, those caps need some time to settle it. Leave the unit on for a week straight and you will be pleasantly surprised at how warm the sound becomes!
03-07-2010, 06:33
RoboCopper

Quote:

Originally Posted by fmzip

The Wolfson DAC is stock at Newark
http://www.newark.com/wolfson-microe...741?Ntt=wm8716

The power regulators are stock at Digikey

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...ds=7805+murata
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...eywords=7812sr

You will need a new power supply for your 7520 once you change the regulators. You can order the Caiman power supply or get yourself a linear power supply as I did.

Cheers for this,
Do I need both power regulators or any one of those listed?
Also, what linear power supply did you get or you built one yourself?
Cheers
03-07-2010, 07:40
StanleyB

You need both. Also remove the 10 ohms/1W resistor behind the 5V reg and replace it with a wire link if you are using the Murata 5V reg.
03-07-2010, 14:55
fmzip

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoboCopper

Cheers for this,
Do I need both power regulators or any one of those listed?
Also, what linear power supply did you get or you built one yourself?
Cheers

I find one of these used for $30

http://cgi.ebay.com/MASTECH-VARIABLE...item588846aea5
07-07-2010, 13:00
drumlins4ever

Just about to buy a AD826 for my tc-7520, can anyone confirm that this is the right one

http://radionics.rs-online.com/web/s...duct&R=5228130

OR THIS

http://ie.farnell.com/analog-devices...826/dp/1438583

Also , i can just drop this in without having to change anything else , its just a simple swap replacement for whatever opamp is in there ?

Thanks
07-07-2010, 13:22
fmzip

Quote:

Originally Posted by drumlins4ever

Just about to buy a AD826 for my tc-7520, can anyone confirm that this is the right one

http://radionics.rs-online.com/web/s...duct&R=5228130

OR THIS

http://ie.farnell.com/analog-devices...826/dp/1438583

Also , i can just drop this in without having to change anything else , its just a simple swap replacement for whatever opamp is in there ?

Thanks

That is it....just pull out the old one and in with the new. Make sure pin 1 is located correctly when you reinstall it. Pin one is the little black circle on each chip, DO NOT go by the orientation of the "lettering" on the chip!
07-07-2010, 14:28
drumlins4ever

thanks for that , looking forward to trying this opamp shortly
08-07-2010, 02:54
fmzip

The 826 is my favorite thus far.

Have an lm4562HA at the office that just arrived. Can't wait to try that out.
08-07-2010, 06:44
MartinT

Quote:

Originally Posted by fmzip

The 826 is my favorite thus far.

Have an lm4562HA at the office that just arrived. Can't wait to try that out.

They are both excellent op-amps and you will settle on one based on its sound in your system. I would be happy with either but slightly prefer the LM4562 in my system.
08-07-2010, 11:01
AndrewR

I've tried the LM 826, but still far preferred the OPA2132PA.

Much better still is removing the board and fitting 47uF capacitors into the PIN3B connector - as per post 117 in the passive Caiman thread

Andrew
08-07-2010, 12:24
fmzip

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndrewR

I've tried the LM 826, but still far preferred the OPA2132PA.

Much better still is removing the board and fitting 47uF capacitors into the PIN3B connector - as per post 117 in the passive Caiman thread

Andrew

Interesting, never read that thread. Although I use the variable out to my preamp and the headphone out, this mod won't work for my setup unless I were to use my ext in on the preamp. Unfortunately, I have only one ext in which is for my SACD player.
08-07-2010, 14:14
AndrewR

Quote:

Originally Posted by fmzip

Interesting, never read that thread. Although I use the variable out to my preamp and the headphone out, this mod won't work for my setup unless I were to use my ext in on the preamp. Unfortunately, I have only one ext in which is for my SACD player.

I've not yet tested it, but applying the mod this way might mean the DAC still has a variable output - albeit a passive pre-amp.

Best regards,

Andrew
10-07-2010, 14:30
fmzip

Can someone tell me the 1/2w resistor value in the location directly behind RCA1 please.

May have found why I lost a channel FINALLY! ANY help would be greatly appreciated!
11-07-2010, 21:45
drumlins4ever

The AD826 makes nothing but music in my system , think i prefer it over the OPA2132 would be very interested in trying a LMH6655 , Anyone else tried one?
12-07-2010, 03:57
fmzip

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndrewR

I've tried the LM 826, but still far preferred the OPA2132PA.

Much better still is removing the board and fitting 47uF capacitors into the PIN3B connector - as per post 117 in the passive Caiman thread

Andrew

Gotta say, this is nice! Thanks for the link!

Guess I have now determined my op amp board was the problem with the lost channel I was struggling with....

I have music back and it is sweet. Time to let the Nichicon Muse caps burn in for a week or two :)
13-07-2010, 19:06
Maximum

I'm testing out the metal cap version of the LM4562 and results initially are quite positive. They are bloody awkward to fit though and clearance looks like it'll be a problem. Does anyone know any potential problems with the dip adapted ones like the ones sold here...

http://www.audioupgrades.co.uk/na_ma_ha_opamps.shtml
22-08-2010, 10:14
RoboCopper

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quietschbox

Well, i don't know... browsing pages along the 4032 and 4562...

"Ad8620 Vs. THS4032"
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...postid=1658008

"In my Twistedpear COD DAC, at the balance to single conversion position after the AD826 IV, I have tried both AD8620 and THS4032, also LM4562, AD8066, LM6172, OPA2132 and OPA2064 etc.
*For pop/jazz/vocal music, I prefer THS4032 - a lot.*
The difference between THS4032 and other amp in this case is day and night. It sounds a lot fuller, more importantly, it has much better pace than other amp. It is simply more musical. It tips towards the lower end. But that is what I am looking for. Comparing to the Twistedpear Buffalo, the COD in on the thin side.
You have to try out THS4032."

Something for you?

This thread also says:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...01#post1156001
"Have you checked the data sheet for the THS4032 compared to the older NJM4580?
It says the OP-amp (THS4032) cant drive a capacitive load unless it is smaller than 20pF. Check all outputs (pin 1 and pin7) to see if there is a proper protection resistor for to avoid oscillations and unstable operations. If there is capacitors connected right on the outputs it could be necessary to apply a series resistor from the output (20-75 ohm maximum). But Im not sure about the solution due to I dont have any schematics for the SRC2496 to look at and you havnt verified the oscillation on a scope?
Due to the high bandwith, this circuit operates in class-A and because of that it will be running pretty hot (ca 0.5W heat dissipating for each IC) but could of course run to hot if oscillate."

and

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...28#post1156028
"Oscillating op-amps distort the sound badly, and that's what you are enjoying and calling "SOOO OOOOOPEN", distorted sound. Most pre-amp mods are actually based in making some stage oscillate by accident, but don't say it too loud or some people may become upset... (Anyway, the kind of people that does this stuff neither have an oscilloscope to check nor care about stability at all)."

and

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...38#post1156238
"You can't use the THS4032 for most audio applications because IT'S NOT UNITY-GAIN STABLE, and most audio circuits require that condition. This op-amp is only stable for gains of 2 or higher, as it's intended for video buffering applications. There is no simple way to make it unity-gain stable.

Also, you can't use the THS4032 with +/-15V in a PCB designed for conventional op-amps because it requires specific layout considerations in order to handle those 0.45W of idle dissipation. Furthermore, most PCB layouts designed for conventional audio op-amps just can't handle the 100Mhz bandwidth."

and

"first thing you should do if wanting to mod circuits should be to purchase a decent oscilloscope for a couple of bucks. Analog instrument are nearly for free now a days and that will be your first choice measuring instrument to use if your intention is to modify circuits. Also, you will learn a lot when using such an instrument and also, its very very useful for all electronic developments, error measurements, modifications and services on broken/faulty equipments.
Otherwise all your future works with modifications will newer be verified only estimated by a guessing.
It will do with a scope in the range of 50 to 100 MHz, (best=100MHz) but you dont need a 2 channel scope, but its very convenient to be able to see what is coming in and what is coming out at the same time when measuring."

Not that i understand enough of it, but warnings about how to implement this thing, would like to get the hang of whats that all about...

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...35#post1659635
"I got THS4032 and THS4031.
they sounds good.
extended highs , full mids , well controlled and punchy lows.
The only thing I am not satisfied with is that sound stage is a bit narrow compared with traditional Audio OPAMP."

So many opinions on things. I once decided electronics is too much mathematics for me, so i stopped at basic level. Every once and then,
things like these make me wish i knew more and had some gear.

After reading this post, I wonder if THS4032 is compatible with Beresford 7520 DAC?
Would someone suggest it?
Any sound reviews if it is safe to use?
If it is compatible and good to use is this a good price?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=360292194570
29-08-2010, 18:24
RoboCopper

Quote:

Originally Posted by StanleyB

Are you writing about line output or headphone output? And what is the spec of the mods that you are using to base your comments on?
I am getting increasingly worried that some people are refrring to mods on top of other mods. This clouds the original starting point reference.

I myself can hear enough detail in the guitar touches with the WM8716/LM4562NA combination, and which includes the MLC5/6 mod.
I get about the same result with the PCM1716/NE5532FE combination without the MLC5/6 mod. That's with the line output.

Things get a lot more complex with headphones. The 1st and 2nd opamp types can have a dramatic effect. I like the THS4032 in the LIne and the LM4562 in the headphone for the K701. For the HD650 I prefer the LM4562 in both location. My MDR-F1 is happier with LM4562NA in LINE and NE5532FE in headphone.

Stan

Stan,
I am only listening to line output and at present time I have 7520 with LM4562 with MLC5/6 mods.
Would you also suggest PCM1716 to WM8716 upgrade as I have a friend who knows better his soldering iron than I do know my pocket :)
What is the difference in sound when PCM1716 is upgraded to WM8716?
Anybody, any experiences?
Best regards
02-09-2010, 13:03
TeTsuo36

Just realised i had not been here and posted for over a year! That is what a baby, another baby on the way and a loft conversion does for you.

So my 7520. WM8716 Wolfson, 4562NA on the headphones and THS4032 (with cap) on the line out. No other mods.

I wanted to do the MCL 5/6 mod, but figured i may need to change the THS4032. I ordered a 4562NA and some of the LMEs. I wanted 4562HA, but National don't appear to do samples and at Farnell they are £20. Anyone have a cheaper source? Would i even notice the difference to the NA?

Also, may i ask. How do you fit a 4562HA? With the adaptor or soldered straight in to the pcb?

Thanks in advance, great to see the mods still continuing, looks like i have a LOT to catch up on.

All the best, Mark.
02-09-2010, 14:12
AndrewR

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeTsuo36

Just realised i had not been here and posted for over a year! That is what a baby, another baby on the way and a loft conversion does for you.

So my 7520. WM8716 Wolfson, 4562NA on the headphones and THS4032 (with cap) on the line out. No other mods.

I wanted to do the MCL 5/6 mod, but figured i may need to change the THS4032. I ordered a 4562NA and some of the LMEs. I wanted 4562HA, but National don't appear to do samples and at Farnell they are £20. Anyone have a cheaper source? Would i even notice the difference to the NA?

Also, may i ask. How do you fit a 4562HA? With the adaptor or soldered straight in to the pcb?

Thanks in advance, great to see the mods still continuing, looks like i have a LOT to catch up on.

All the best, Mark.

Tetsuo,

Two words - "Passive Mod"

Four words - "Got to be done"

See my post #117 in the passive Caiman thread.

Enjoy!

Andrew Randle
02-09-2010, 14:30
Alex_UK

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndrewR

Tetsuo,

Two words - "Passive Mod"

Four words - "Got to be done"

See my post #117 in the passive Caiman thread.

Enjoy!

Andrew Randle

Here's the link, to save other people searching.

http://theartofsound.net/forum/showp...&postcount=117

Sorry if this has been stated, but I'm not clear - does this leave the headphone/variable output still working? [Ignore this question - just re-read - No and Yes as far as I can tell.]
02-09-2010, 14:53
lovejoy

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoboCopper

Stan,
I am only listening to line output and at present time I have 7520 with LM4562 with MLC5/6 mods.
Would you also suggest PCM1716 to WM8716 upgrade as I have a friend who knows better his soldering iron than I do know my pocket :)
What is the difference in sound when PCM1716 is upgraded to WM8716?
Anybody, any experiences?
Best regards

Oh yes, do it, without a doubt. The differences to my ears are in the frequency extremes when you swap out the PCM1716 for the WM8716 - deeper, more tuneful and better controlled bass and cleaner, sweeter and easier to listen to top end. If you know someone who can do the job for you, it's a no brainer.
02-09-2010, 22:15
TeTsuo36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex_UK

Here's the link, to save other people searching.

http://theartofsound.net/forum/showp...&postcount=117

Sorry if this has been stated, but I'm not clear - does this leave the headphone/variable output still working? [Ignore this question - just re-read - No and Yes as far as I can tell.]

Thanks, looks like whole new thread to get into. Passive mod is easy enough but does it only mod the fixed channel? My amp has no volume (diy Tripath TA2020) damn..........
26-09-2010, 19:02
donington

Hi, all im new here and could do with some help, i want to put the cl5/cl6 resistors in the beresford 7520 back in to see if it would help to rein in the harsh top end,i did the lm4562 mod which was a huge improvment but after over 2 months of use still had the same problem then i put the an826anz in which again was a worth while change but i still get some harsh treble but not as bad,what i need help with is getting the right resistors and were from.I want to try this before i change my speakers which i think could help they are the monitor audio br2 and with there metal tweeters might not be helping im a novice so please be gentle any help would be great regards keith:)
26-09-2010, 19:39
Puffin

[QUOTE=donington;152619]Hi, all im new here and could do with some help, i want to put the cl5/cl6 resistors
QUOTE]

Aren't these capacitors?
26-09-2010, 19:46
leo

Quote:

Originally Posted by donington

Hi, all im new here and could do with some help, i want to put the cl5/cl6 resistors in the beresford 7520 back in to see if it would help to rein in the harsh top end,i did the lm4562 mod which was a huge improvment but after over 2 months of use still had the same problem then i put the an826anz in which again was a worth while change but i still get some harsh treble but not as bad,what i need help with is getting the right resistors and were from.I want to try this before i change my speakers which i think could help they are the monitor audio br2 and with there metal tweeters might not be helping im a novice so please be gentle any help would be great regards keith:)

100pf ceramic capacitors
26-09-2010, 20:00
donington

thanks i stand corrected i am a novice at this cheers keith
26-09-2010, 20:03
donington

just had a look and the 100pf ceramic capacitors dont look anything like those which were cut out?
26-09-2010, 21:31
leo

The small bead like yellow things seen in the pic here http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=3058

Farnell do them, the legs may need forming into shape for the width of the holes http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/mcrr...00v/dp/1216416
26-09-2010, 23:12
donington

Thanks leo all sorted now thanks for the help:)
01-10-2010, 22:50
RoboCopper

Quote:

Originally Posted by StanleyB

It would be helpful if you knew what you are considering doing, and whether you have your facts correct.

As a guide:
Murata Power Solutions’ 7805SR-C (5V output), 7812SR-C (12V output).

Consult the Murata datasheet and make sure you know your 5V regulator from your 12V regulator. The 7812SR-C will not work below a 15V input level. So you would have to be in Caiman territory if you want to do this mod and spend that sort of money.

A cheaper solution might have been the Leo mod, but I think he has put that aside due to the complexity of it and the certain electronics skill required. Any slip ups and it's good bye TC-7520.

Stan

Hi, can somebody clear some things for me, please?
As beginner to the world of DIY Hifi, I have my 7520 which is only upgraded with Wolfson WM8716 chip only and I use it in passive mod/e. I am not bothered with opamps any more after hearing passive mod.

Questions:
:scratch:1. Do I need 15v power supply now when I have upgraded to Wolfson chip? (although it works with 12V supply)
:stalks:2. As I plan to upgrade to Murata regs (from above) do I need to change my power supply to 15volts? Will the DAC work?
:rolleyes:3. I do use passive mod, hence do I have to upgrade both murata's 5v and 12v or only 12 volts??? (I mabye plan to obtain new Gator board in future)
:eek:4. If I upgrade all other capacitors to Elna II, will my 7520 become Caiman (just in passive mode), or is there anything else to upgrade?

Thanks for your responses, all the threads are looong reading and it can be very hard to find all the info.
02-10-2010, 06:06
StanleyB

If you intend to do the passive mod, then you only need to upgrade the 5V regulator. You would still need something like the Caiman 15V PSU to correctly power the Murata reg though. And the 10R resistor behind the existing 5V reg should be replaced with a wire link.
02-10-2010, 07:36
Gazjam

Quote:

Originally Posted by StanleyB

If you intend to do the passive mod, then you only need to upgrade the 5V regulator. You would still need something like the Caiman 15V PSU to correctly power the Murata reg though. And the 10R resistor behind the existing 5V reg should be replaced with a wire link.

Oh, haven't done that one. :scratch:
How did I miss that?

Any posts deal with this one Stan?
*I'm running passive mod (no board) with 2 Mutara's and Maplins CBR Linear PSU

Is there any issue with this wire link if I was running 2 film caps, like the ClarityCap ESA's?
Also, if I replace the big black resevoir cap with, say, 2 film caps in parallel or whatever, any issue there?

Whats the advantages of the Wire link mod? Defo worth doing?

ta.
02-10-2010, 07:53
StanleyB

What's that commercial again :scratch:? 'Just do it'.
If I had to explain every technical detail behind some of some mods, my competitors would be able to build their DACs even better ;).

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