Technics 1210 internal regulation mods

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Originally Posted by MartinT

No, this needs more than slight aptitude as he will need to know what he is doing. It involves cutting PCB tracks, soldering directly to pads etc. We've already had one member brick his circuit board from attempting the mods himself so get someone who is experienced in electronics to do it.

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That member is me :eek: Dont fuck around, just send your deck to someone that knows what there doing. My mistake cost me money, so learn from my error. ;)

To be fair Andy, you connected everything in the right place. It was your soldering that let you down mainly because of dry joints, but the one that killed the board was a large blob of solder that was on the 9V4 regulator output lead. This was not connected to the board properly and was able to move allowing it to touch the 21v input wire. The regulator actually survived but the input to output short fed 21v to the control circuitry, which caused the damage.

For others considering a little DIY, not just with this project, you need to choose your equipment carefully. A low power soldering iron will not cut it as the tip heat can be depleted quicker than the solder can flow properly on the joint. Not only can this leave you with dry joints, it usually causes some damage to board solder pads and possibly sensitive components due to the time you need to apply the iron for to get the solder to reach melting point, particularly with lead free solder as the melting point is higher than lead solder. I use a 90W temperature controlled soldering station, made by OKI, which is very fast and gives very good joints. Also you need to choose the right iron tip and solder for the job. The solder needs good flux properties and fast melt and flow properties when it reaches the melting point.

Just to add to Paul's excellent advice, use a good solder sucker if you intend removing components from a board, especially double sided through-plated boards. Desolder wick is just hopeless.

Lead-free solder is also not the best. Try and source something like Shark 5.5% silver solder from abroad if you possibly can. I have also heard that WBT 4% silver solder is good.

WBT 4% is excellent! :)

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Originally Posted by Paul Hynes

To be fair Andy, you connected everything in the right place. It was your soldering that let you down mainly because of dry joints, but the one that killed the board was a large blob of solder that was on the 9V4 regulator output lead. This was not connected to the board properly and was able to move allowing it to touch the 21v input wire. The regulator actually survived but the input to output short fed 21v to the control circuitry, which caused the damage.

For others considering a little DIY, not just with this project, you need to choose your equipment carefully. A low power soldering iron will not cut it as the tip heat can be depleted quicker than the solder can flow properly on the joint. Not only can this leave you with dry joints, it usually causes some damage to board solder pads and possibly sensitive components due to the time you need to apply the iron for to get the solder to reach melting point, particularly with lead free solder as the melting point is higher than lead solder. I use a 90W temperature controlled soldering station, made by OKI, which is very fast and gives very good joints. Also you need to choose the right iron tip and solder for the job. The solder needs good flux properties and fast melt and flow properties when it reaches the melting point.

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Paul,

Your too kind. I think I may well have to buy a super duper soldering iron (wow what an interesting life :eek:). Guys, you've learned from my mistakes. Take Pauls advice, get a decent soldering iron, only do the job if your upto it, and make sure you enough money to fix it if it goes wrong :lol:

A

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Originally Posted by SCUMM

I am located in Richmond, VA and am trying to locate someone who may be able to install the regulation mods. I have been in contact with Paul who knows no contacts in the States. Apart from the forums help, his suggestion was sending the deck (sans arm and platter) to ACS.

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After fruitlessly searching for a reliable technician in my area, I think I am going to send my table across the pond to ACS. In addition to the regulation mods, I took advantage of the recent Mike New bearing offer (which I will also have them install. While they are under the hood, what other modifications should I consider?

get rid of the queing light, the strobe light, and the pitch control. All completely useless and place a drain on the PCB. You might also want to get a Paul Hynes SR7 PSU whilst your at it. You may also want to make sure that its all star earthed as well. I think if you start with this mods you'll be up there with the best of them!

Does anyone have experience with some of the Vantage Audio mods such as:

Mechanical/Electronic Upgrades (not sure what these entail, its been nearly a month and I have yet to hear back from them)

Crystal Reference Mod (this seems to be the highest priced)

Plinth Upgrades

I was also kicking around the idea of the Bottom Base Plate to compliment my bearing acquisition. Based on my readings thus far, I am not quite sure of the benefits if one was still to use the stock platter (for the time being).

I definitely plan on a Hynes power supply but the lower SR5 (it fits the budget a little better)

Basically, I am trying to take care of all internals in one fell swoop.

And if my ignorance wasn't showing enough already :doh: what modifications need to be done when replacing the stock tonearm with, say, a Jelco? I imagine that involves some (de)soldering?

Thanks, Caleb

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Originally Posted by REXTON

get rid of ... the pitch control. [All] completely useless

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I respectfully disagree - it depends what kind of music he listens to.
Personally I find the Technics pitch control an incredibly useful function, which I often use, and it's one of the reasons that I have stuck with my Techy over the years.
Agreed that if he listens mostly to Jazz or live/band music its not that useful, and I'm sure audiophiles would recoil in horror at the idea of changing the pitch of such music, but if he listens to a lot of electronica/ dance music, as I do, it may not be a function he wishes to get rid of.
Just sayin...

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Originally Posted by SCUMM

Does anyone have experience with some of the Vantage Audio mods such as:

Mechanical/Electronic Upgrades (not sure what these entail, its been nearly a month and I have yet to hear back from them)

Crystal Reference Mod (this seems to be the highest priced)

Plinth Upgrades

I was also kicking around the idea of the Bottom Base Plate to compliment my bearing acquisition. Based on my readings thus far, I am not quite sure of the benefits if one was still to use the stock platter (for the time being).

I definitely plan on a Hynes power supply but the lower SR5 (it fits the budget a little better)

Basically, I am trying to take care of all internals in one fell swoop.

And if my ignorance wasn't showing enough already :doh: what modifications need to be done when replacing the stock tonearm with, say, a Jelco? I imagine that involves some (de)soldering?

Thanks, Caleb

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What's the crystal modification I haven't heard of this one l:scratch:

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Originally Posted by nickbaba

I respectfully disagree - it depends what kind of music he listens to.
Personally I find the Technics pitch control an incredibly useful function, which I often use, and it's one of the reasons that I have stuck with my Techy over the years.
Agreed that if he listens mostly to Jazz or live/band music its not that useful, and I'm sure audiophiles would recoil in horror at the idea of changing the pitch of such music, but if he listens to a lot of electronica/ dance music, as I do, it may not be a function he wishes to get rid of.
Just sayin...

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No worries you are entitled to your opinion ;)