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Are the black plastic spacers easy to remove?Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFidelityGuy
Is it just a case of prying the spacers off the pins then snipping back the pins so they are shorter?
*Are the spacers NEEDED for elecrical insulation purposes or whatever?
(no soldering/electronics ability here WHATSOEVER!)
thanks!
I think it should be that easy. I've not received mine through the post yet so I can't say for sure. However I've soldered those pin headers to PCB's before and it's been a pain to stop the pins from moving in and out of the spacer and ending up different lengths. So they should slide off fairly easily. They probably will be a bit tighter than before the pins are soldered in place though due to the added friction of all the pins being stationary. I'll try it out on mine when they arrive.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazjam
I know the NCPSU used in the Trichord stuff, infact I could easily draw out the circuit but won't :ner:
Regarding those pin sockets with the plastic on, I don't think removing the plastic is going to help I'm afraid chaps, I'm pretty sure the pins covered in that plastic is too thick to go through the converter board holes anyway, feel free to check just to be sure though:)
I have a brown dog type converter and one using the pins with plastic collars on so will post a pic later of them side by side, theres quite a difference in height.
These are currently in other gear (DC servo for an amp and a simple linestage) so I'll have to take them out first
So do I, and I consider it inferior to the Virtual Battery circuit from Technics or the power supply circuit from JL Hood.Quote:
Originally Posted by leo
Your right Leo, my Tirna chips have just arrived and I've compared them next to my BrownDog adapter boards. The pins that Tirna have used are much longer. Also, the section of the pin that's covered by the black plastic spacers is much thicker than the part of the pin that fits in the socket. So even if you managed to remove the spacers and cut the pins shorter you could only loose about 1mm of the height. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by leo
So with the Tirna boards I think the only two options are to either remove the IC socket from the 7520 or swap the pins on the adapter board for some shorter ones like those used on BrownDog boards. :(
As I have both adapter board types I guess I could swap the pins from the BrownDog boards onto the Tirna ones if the PCB holes are the same size. I'll probably try this eventually but for now I'll use the Tirna ones as they are to try them out.
Edit: Here are a couple of photos I've just taken of the two adapter boards side by side. Sorry about the crappy quality, my phone camera sucks.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y48.../Adapter01.png
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y48.../Adapter02.png
Good God I thought my eyes had gone. :lol:
I know, they're terrible. :doh: Hopefully it will give everyone a rough idea of the massive difference in height between the two. The pins aren't anywhere near as thick as they look there, that's just bloom or whatever you call it caused by the crappy camera and the harsh lighting.
Excellent, Cheers!Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFidelityGuy
:)
*EDIT*
Bugger
Daft question alert...
Meantime, would the case lid sitting on the cap (not much weight) do any harm? Any electrical probs?
It wouldnt be a permenant situation.
Well I never said it was the best, for me Paul Hynes has taken first placeQuote:
Originally Posted by Sensimilia
The NCPS is quite a simple circuit, its pretty effective but the prices are a little too much for what you get
I know most of the JLH stuff including the gadget plugged into the output of regulators :)
Having a bad day Stan? ;)