Hi,
Can I know what's the value of the MLC 8 / 9? I have remove it previously and have lost it. Is the code 101? More detail of the capacitor will be welcome.
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Hi,
Can I know what's the value of the MLC 8 / 9? I have remove it previously and have lost it. Is the code 101? More detail of the capacitor will be welcome.
100pF
StanleyB
Good to see you here. I suppose I've not had my Caiman for a week yet, but it's still going OK, and really nice.
Ron over on another MB would like some info - http://www.bbc.co.uk/dna/mbradio3/F7...w=20#p93223093
bws
Dave
Spit out the question you want to ask Dave. I am not a member on that forum.
Stanley
I answered Ron - see http://www.bbc.co.uk/dna/mbradio3/F7...=yes#p93260408
Basically he's looking for a way to get a 24 bit/88.2 or 96kHz input via USB. Looking at the manual the Caiman doesn't do this right now.
Thanks for quick prompting anyway.
Dave
Majority of dacs can't yet accept 24/96 from USB , tbh the quality of the Caimans USB input is actually very good and its nice to have the option of USB as standard with it even if it is limited to 24/44.1.
Hi AOS ppl,
I have some problem with my 7520. Hope you people can help me in it. Yesterday I was using this DAC connected to my hifi. Everything was ok. Until when I decided to listen through headphone. The right channel give out cracking sound occasionally and it is very obvious. I have the MLC 5 6 8 9 remove. Using two LME49720. So I change the hp opamp to the stock. The problem is still there. Till today I decided to give it one more try. With lme49720 in line and stock in hp amp. the cracking sound was gone. So I though was unstable due to high BW. So I try with ths4032 on line and lme49720 on hp and result the cracking sound did not appear. Anything wrong with my dac?
May have been a dodgy connection on the op-amp socket, I've had this happen before (not with the Beresford dac) if its ok now you may have improved connection after removing and inserting the chips
See how it goes, if you don't notice it again I wouldn't worry :)
leo
The usb does also do 32 and 48 kHz. The word size is limited to 16 bits, which arguably gives a slight dip in quality - depending on material. I don't know enough about USB to be sure, but I have a hunch that the error handling on usb links may be problematic for streaming audio. Either there'll be errors, but they won't be corrected, or there'll be errors which will require a retransmit, and that'll mess up the timing. Maybe there's sufficient buffering in the DAC to render this only a minor problem, but otherwise, and if I'm right about this, then it'd make sense to use really good cables. The only experience I've had with errors on usb cables is trying to retrieve data from a Humax Freeview box (9200?). It really did make a difference using short, better cables, and also routing them away from other kit - and, oddly enough, the floor. I understand that part of the problem was due to the
poor driver for the Humax, but even so, the fact that the box was driven into an error resend mode thus triggering calamity suggests that the bits on a usb wire are not reliably error free, particularly if there is a potential interference source nearby. For most computer purposes some errors are not normallly a problem, as everything will be sorted eventually, but for audio streaming applications problems should be avoided and minimised, otherwise the sound really will suffer. I don't know the details of any cables which are good enough to reduce this problem reliably.
Until recently I didn't know the benefits and limitations of SPDIF. For quality audio right now it does seem to be good, but in the longer term I think we're going to have to either have something completely new or migrate to HDMI in order to handle sound with multple channels in high quality.
Neither TOSLINK nor Digital Coax have error correction, so it is a bit difficult to single out USB on that front. In any case, in all the years of copying data from PC to harddisk I can't remember a single file that was incorrectly copied. The same goes for anything I printed via the USB port.
As for the suggestion that 16 bit gives a slight dip in quality: I guess we'll all have to throw out our 16 bit/44.1KHz discs then since their quality is suspect :rolleyes:. Let's face it, higher bit files are not yet mainstream, and not cheap to buy either. So catering for the minority need of 96KHz USB audio would involve a price hike since higher bit rate USB components don't come cheap. There are a couple of DACs on the market that support 96KHz, but I can't ever remember reading a review or test on any of those DACs where USB audio files of different bit rates and frequencies were tested. I'll be interested to know if anyone has.
File transfer uses another USB class protocol, with error recovery. USB for audio is different.
You can see the different types here : http://www.usb.org/developers/devclass_docs
Theres 2 x dual op-amps, one is for the fixed and variable out, the other is for the headphone amp
Robo,
Both located behind the vol pot.
When viewed from the front; One on the left is for fixed and variable out.
One on the right is for headphone amp.
Granville
BIG thanks to LEO and Granville....
As I listen to Hifi on speakers (I do not use headphones) if I want to play upgrades with my 7520, I can only swap the one of the left in order to improve the sound?
That is really interesting point of design of DACs.
Any suggestions of OPAMPS for OPEN, FORWARD MIDRANGE with TIGHT BASS and FAST sound?
Big thanks for answers and lighting fast replies :)
:cool:
AD826 work well too for me and some others.
Did you try those LT1364 then Stan? On paper they seem to have similar features to the AD826, for instance the very high slew rate and good cable driver capabilities.
I did. I couldn't tell much difference between the LT1364 and the LM4562NA in the line output stage. It appeared to produce less sibilance though, but I have to double check that. I was trying out a potentially new mod at the same time, so I have to remove the mod and try my listening tests again. The LT1364 low current ability of 5mA made it however pretty useless in the headphone stage.
Thank you Stan, big thanks
Robbo,
If your speakers and amps are quite revealing then I would choose some of the faster opamp chips about.
My own preferences are:
THS4032 (with Tirna cap mod)
LT1364
AD826
Have fun,
Granville
Ah right cheers, no good for me then as headphones are used almost exclusively.
Thanks Granville,
Hope to try all those suggestions as this MOD thing is new for me.
I need one more suggestion.
I am looking for opamp with LIGHT, fast, tight bass.
Open, forward midrange.
Crispy, sweet treble.
In my first question I asked for "tight bass and fast sound".
I forgot to mention LIGHT too, I do not need overpowering bass, that is tiring to listen (IMO).
Thanks for suggestions, looking forward to try all the suggestions.
RoboCopper
I have the LME49720HA in the Caiman fixed / variable out and really like it. For me, it improves on the standard LM4562 with sweeter treble and more defined bass.
Regards
Thanks Chrism,
It looks like I will try most of suggestions for opamps, as I am looking for the lively, forward sound. I really like Beresford due to the fact that you can customise the output depending to your system and sound you prefer.
Hope to get hands on most opamps and will write short review.
Thanks for all on fast replies and being helpful
Regards, RoboCopper
Hi Robo,
I’m a little unsure of what sound you are trying to achieve. IMO if your amp/speakers setup is sufficiently fast and revealing then I doubt that you will find the 7520 bass tiring with a suitable fast opamp chip. (In a lessor system that may be the case!)
The 7520 can produce great SQ if your system is up to it! Some may say that it is a little bright, but I would say that it is capable of being very fast, detailed and revealing.
If bass (and good bass) is not your thing, then don’t use the THS4032 as it has great fast, tight bass. The LM4562 may be more suitable for you. Many users suggest that it is a little bass shy!
I can’t confirm but get the impression from AoS comments that the LM4562 and OPA2134 (for that laid back sound) are a safe bet in most systems?
Being new to opamp rolling, you will be surprised at just how effectively you can modify the sonic signature from the 7520 to suit your ear!
Just experiment…that part of the fun.
Granville
Hi Granville,
I think you are right, I do have a problem with my current system, or better said, acoustics of my living room which is my listening room. Almost any speaker I placed in here was a bit bass heavy including mine. With analog sources, my system sounds fine (depends of the component of course), with digital is always hard to listen with bass heaviness. The best CD player I heard was Rega Apollo, with lively midrange, treble and not to heavy bass.
Anybody compared Beresford with Rega Apollo.
I rather have cheaper (easier to mod) Beresford (it is new for me as I just discovered an easy way of opamps upgrade) with few digital inputs (including USB) as opposed to more expensive Apollo with only CD as input.
I am happy to hear that 7520 is fast, detailed and revealing.
I just need to play with few of those opamps.
THS4032 sound appealing for me with description of fast, tight bass, I do like good bass, but I mentioned light too as my system can be touch heavy sounded with bass (that is what my ears/brain hear). I checked on THS4032 and it looks different than other chips?? How can you insert it into 7520?
I already ordered LM4562NA.
I have at the moment OPA2132PA opamps, and I do like the sound, but just wanted to hear more opamps, they are simply to replace and try, much simple procedure than buying another cable or DAC (thank you Stan for that).
I will probably try to get hands onto all of the chips suggested but THS4032 looks like a proper opamp, (by looking at a price), just not sure on how to implement it into Beresford.
I do prefer fast, tight bass, open, forward midrange, sweet, lively treble.
This opamp thing is very addictive, I am not sure if all those opamps have to be burn in and for how long?
Cant wait to try them, it is real fun.
Thanks to everybody on this helpful forum
Hi RoboCopper,
I'm amazed that you've got to your 7th post without being handcuffed & locked in a soundproof cell with a masked 'persuader' who works for the first post police here on the Art of Sound.
Before they set the dogs on you, could you just drop in over at the Welcome area of the forum to say hello to the folks?
A few words about yourself & your system would be a good way to officially announce your arrival. We like to refer to each other by our first names (even if we do have too many Daves here..............you're not a Dave are you?) We also find that our shared love of music is the thing that binds us all together, so a quick run-down of what you like to listen to is always a great way to break the ice.
If you feel like it, you could also post some pictures of your gear in the Gallery too!
Cheers
Good to see that you didn't 'waste' your 3000th post on a gentle admonishment Chris!
Welcome to AoS RoboCopper.
Regards
http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=5890
Hello to all.
Sorry did not know.
I hope I will survive this forum?
Rob
My present system is:
Dynaudio Focus 140
Marantz CD 7003
amp PM7001
Rob (not Dave) :)
Hi Rob,
We are actually very nice here on AoS. The reason why we like to know a little about our new members, is because AoS is a bit like a gentleman's club (but without the elitism or exclusivity); in fact it's more of a community than a forum.
The 'Welcome Stasi' have been a lot more diligent of late, as we have had some 'odd bods' joining, who have either just wanted to use AoS as another outlet to advertise items for sale, or have requested advice without letting us know about the gear they use.
I'm sure you'll get on fine Rob.
Regards
Hi Barry,
Seriously I have been on many different forums around the world, but in this one I felt truly welcome by friendly knowledgeable replies.
Thanks
Robo
Awwww, come here ya big softie!
:grouphug:
;)
Just found this power supply which might be of interest http://www.dccsupplies.com/shop/prod...oducts_id=1177.
So what is the opinion on using the LME49720HA in this DAC?
I put together a few on some adapters for myself and some associates so I guess I will find out myself. Just wanted to get some impressions from others though...
I also read some where having troubles using THS4032 modules that were designed too big and shorting out among others things. I built some THS4032 modules that are lower
profile then the stock DIP8 chips just to make sure!
Also have a bunch of discretes here to play with.
I love opamp testing!
Hi Robscix,
THe LME49720HA is one of my favourite opamps in both the 7520 and Caiman. It is excellent - particularly with female vocals....
The THS4032 is great too, it is a little sensitive and can sometimes become distorted in some systems, but when it works it is sublime.
Good luck with the testing.
Ade
Yes, I have tried them out. I have not noticed any distortion in the THS4032 modules I built. I also built some dual LME49710HA modules, this issue with these and a few others I am considering is the size. I have a few ideas how to get around this issue though. I have been building the LME49720HA modules for associates for awhile and I know how good these can sound so I had to try them out in the 7520.
I have not done any mods yet, I know still new to this device. Just experimenting with opamps. I popped a discrete opamps in there last night and I am enjoying the sound so far.
David,
I let the LME49720HA burn-in for about 30 hours before listening to it in earnest. But it sounded great from the get-go.
My 7520 has had the MLC 5/6 snip done, but no other mods. I am also using the maplin power supply set to 13.5V.
I also have a Caiman DAC from Stan. For quite a while I actually like the 7520 described above better with my headphones (AKGk701 & HD650s) - it had more punch.... however after doing the murata regulator and capacitor swaps (described in the Caiman Mods thread) I have completely changed my opinion and prefer the detail and space of the modded Caiman (with a LME49720HA opamp for the lineout and a THS4032 for the headphone output).
Both DACs are great pieces of kit and I can't speak more highly of Stans support....
Ade
I prefer the sound of the Dual LME49710HA module to the LME49720HA, trouble is they are too big for just popping in there.
What happens with this MLC 5/6 snip, I located the components and while sone have been cutting them off a few others have been adding different caps and resistors.
any info on that? I have been reading through the various thread....
My observations of the mods to my 7520 are from my listening through my stereo speakers. With MLC5/6 clipped I found that the bass lightened up significantly, enough so that I absolutely had to do the 100nf and 36K mod. The top end with MLC5/6 clipped, about 300Hz and beyond, was wonderful, however. I have never actually used the headphone jack so I'll leave it to others for the headphone observations.
CD
I have actually been using both for testing. I have been using headphones when I had to and a Class-D and stereo speakers when allowable.
Perhaps I will investigate the mod but perform it so it can be undone if it is something that does not agree with my current system.
Thanks for the information.
So the 36K and 100nf cap mod are replacments after clipping MLC5/6?
You would think so:)
It was more like;
1. The MLC5/6 mod was suggested to open up the LM4562NA and also get get rid what some had observed as 1 note bass with the LM4562NA.
2. Some of us found that bass weakened with that mod. So Leo and Stan suggested the cap and resistor mod later.
Leo is another one on the forum that I am very thankful to encounter. Man does that guy love to tinker! And he publishes the results to our benefit.
My impression of Leo is that he loves to tinker so much that, if someone were to give him a gift of some great sounding audio device, a DAC, amplifier, turntable, etc, but that this device had absolutely no way of being opened up to look inside, it would drive him mad. :lolsign: Am I right, Leo?
CD
Would you suggest the mod if your not using the LM4562NA?
Well, maybe. When I put in the LM4562NA, I immediately clipped the MLC5/6 caps.
After it was clipped I tried a few opamps; LM4562, OPA2132, AD826 LME497290, although with the LME49720 I think I may not have given the opamp enough time to break-in. I bought it off of ebay and decided to return it within the window of opportunity, so to speak. My favorites are the LM4562 and the OPA2132. Both are very different but sound great in their own way. They both lacked bass, however in my setup thru speakers. Headphones I don't know.
Now, the 36K and 100nf mod only applies to the LM4562NA opamp. I don't know what resistor/cap combination would work with the OPA2132. I have read observations on this forum that the 36K and 100nf mod makes the OPA2132 opamp too warm. This is my only DAC and the idea of experimenting to find the right resistor cap/combo for the OPA2132 wasn't my cup of tea. I just want to enjoy my music. If I had another spare DAC I might have explored that idea, but all this waiting for any change to settle in has worn me out.
At this point I am "finessing" the 36k/100nf mod. Perhaps finessing isn't quite the right word because I am soldering challenged and what I've done is nothing compared to adaptations like PSUs, discrete opamps, and regulators that I've seen others do to their 7520 or Caiman. I'll post my observations once the system has settled in.
So, to answer your question, I would rather leave it up to you. I've given you my experience so far so you can decide accordingly.
Thanks
CD
Nice thing with a lot of these mods is that they are cheap and easily reversable if you don't personally like the results
I simply removed/desoldered MCL5/6 and soldered in its place a cut up 8pin DIL socket , it allowed quick comparisons with the stock ceramics, 36k/100nf mod, left empty etc