Oh, is there more difference than meets the eye between them?Quote:
Originally Posted by leo
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Oh, is there more difference than meets the eye between them?Quote:
Originally Posted by leo
Yes. They are two different products, but with a 'family' resemblance.Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
Stan
ATTN: DaveC.
Dave was kind enough to loan me a selection of opamps to try in my "Caimanised" 7520, finally got around to trying them out today.
They were:
OPA134PA
NE5332N (Different make from Stans originals)
4971ONA
My Dac has the MCL5 and 6 capacitor legs snipped on the output board as well as the Wolfsen Dac transplant.
I was running LM4562 op-amps in both line and headamp sockets.
Unfortunately it wasn't much of a test, as for some reason the OPA134PA and the 4971ONA both were very distorted and only coming out of one channel.
Now, I dont know if this is because I snipped the Caps on the oputput board or what, but I couldn't make any judgement about these Op-Amps in the Caiman spec Dac.
The standard 7520-fit NE5332 though.... in comparison to the LM4562's were just not in the same class.
Far more clarity, whallop, soundstage depth...you name it.
So sorry Dave, not much to report!
I'll get 'em in the mail tommorow!
Gary.
Hi Gary,Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazjam
They were given to me FoC by a fellow AoS member who, I believe, had them left over from his op-amp rolling activities (on a standard 7520 I believe) which may be evidence in support of your findings. If the kind donor of the op-amps wants to contribute to this thread it may be helpful. My memory has retained the name of the donor (for a change :) ) but I'd rather not name him - seems ungrateful but I'm truly not, it's just that I've realised my statement above may be open to that (mis)interpretation.
Cheers,
It COULD just be dave that without the 5/ 6 caps in place on the output board those OpAmps just dont work properly.
Says Gary, showing his ignorance of all things electronic!
Incase I missed something somewhere and just to remind that OPA134PA and 4971ONA are SINGLE op-amps not duals, you need to use two each of those in a browndog socket for stereo.
Example OPA134 mono, OPA2134 stereo
THAT explains why they were only working on one channel!
Thanks for that Leo.
Although there was some signal coming through the other speaker?
Was this signal leakage maybe, or something else?
Hi Gaz,
Would that explain what the little PCB thingy was - a browndog adapter to enable two such op-amps to be fitted into one socket maybe?
If so, would you like me to send everything back to you?
Cheers?
Yep, theres NFB resistors so if theres no op-amp you'll get a very low signal
If you like either of those op-amps just get the dual version, it saves faffing about with converter boards;)
Some op-amps aren't available in duals but those ones you have are
And, as an added bonus, the lid on the 7520 will close also, presumably? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by leo
Cheers,
Stans bass mod added to the first post for easy finding
Thanks Leo. Was 36k decided upon as the best value for everyone or is it dependent on the system the DAC is used with?Quote:
Originally Posted by leo
Thanks.
After a few trials Stan liked 36k best, I tried it and have to agree 36k seems to be the sweet spot (after trying various other values and was using 42k before)Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFidelityGuy
I've now tried it with three different amps, two different pairs of speakers and a pair of headphones, it seems to go well with them all where as the other higher and lower values was more system dependent
Of course if your bored try a few alternative values , if you can't be arsed just go for 36k, its easy to cut out altogther if you don't like it:)
Thanks Leo. It sounds like you and Stan have tested this fairly extensively. I might give this a go, it sounds interesting. I'm also going to try the 4562HA's I have spare. I'll try them independently first though.
It sounds like this mod boosts the bass output a bit but also helps tighten it up. I'm slightly concerned about the bass boost as I already have a big boost around 150Hz due to a room node which I tame with EQ. However I have a dip in bass above and below 150Hz. I was wondering if was possible for you to explain what frequencies this mod seems to accentuate to help me decide if this is worth trying?
Thanks.
I starts at about 100Hz.
Stan
I have just been reading about a few op-amps and wonder if anyone has tried them:
They are
AD823 AN and OPA 627BP. The latter is single channel so two are required on an adapter. They are also very expensive.
All this talk of expensive op-amp swapping makes me wonder if anyone has tried a discrete op-amp. You wouldn't be able to fit the lid on the case, but it might make for intersting comparisons.
The first one I mentioned is only about £4 its the second one thats about £56 when you get two mounted on an adapter. I dont think I would pay that but would love to hear a review from someone who could afford it.
Tell us more about discrete op-amps Puffin if you dont mind.
Not much help but anywayQuote:
Originally Posted by Covenant
I've tried OPA627BP a few times in the past (not in this dac though)
It has its fans but I found it to add lots of signature in every app I tried it in, sickly chocolatey signature , some people will like that , I certainly didn't
AD823 maybe worth trying in the Headphone section, its pretty well specced for driving cans , not tried it in this dac yet though
Have a look at the thread on Diyaudio for the applications for the Diamante. Basically it does the same as an op-amp IC, but with separate semiconductors.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...x/image001.jpg
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...light=Diamante
I bought some boards, but have yet to build them. Too many projects, too little time!
Thanks Stan,Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyB
If it mainly affects below 100Hz then I think I'll give it a try.
As a non headphone user, I could just add the Bass Mod to the 5/6 positions and not bother with modding the other one?
Thanks.
what other one Gaz?
Lol I meant do I have to "bass mod the mlc 8/9 if I don't listen to headphones?
( as the mlc 8/9 don't affect the line output?)
would I just need to mod the mlc5/6 slots?
Thanks.
As a guess (could have wrong end of stick) I reckon he means if the R+C wants adding across same place in the headphone amp?
I've noticed a few asking if this mod affects headphone out, Stan will correct me if I'm wrong the first op-amp (line out/variable out) is upstream of the HA so any mods done to the first op-amp will also have effect on the HA out
The mod only discuses MLC5/6 so don't start modding MLC9 etc!
Thanks Stan and Leo, that answers my question. :)
God, whats wrong with my command of the English language recently??? :confused:
too much :cool:
Its a well known side effect caused by your scottish habit of eating deep fried Mars Bars. ;)
Hi Gaz,Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazjam
I think, personally, that for someone for whom English is not their native language, you do very well - all you really need to concentrate on is the bloody accent now and you'd (almost) pass for an Englishman, same as Marco :lolsign:
Cheers,
You Shandy-drinking southerners dont know what your missing. (hic)
Nah, it's the big 4-0 lol.
Tell me about it ;)
Hi Stan, I have recently bought a second-hand pair of AKG 701s. I have both a Caiman and 7520 (love both of them) and wondered if you had any experience / thoughts / recommendations on which combination of DAC/Mods/Opamps would suit the AKGs? I have not done any mods to either DAC yet apart from changing opamps.Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyB
Any help is much appreciated.
Thanks
Ade
I think post #5 on this thread answers your question.
Chris:)
Ha. :lolsign:Quote:
Originally Posted by Stratmangler
I was after more.
Are there any of the mods that are worth doing. Also, I noticed that several have said that the THS4032 on the Caiman was a bit fatiguing...
I'm happy to play around myself, but if anyone has had good experiences with their experiments using the 701s I'd love to hear about them.
Ade
Hello everybody!
This my first post here :)
I have 7520 with new PSU. I use it only with my headphone Denon AH-D2000.
There is said here that:
"LM4562 fitted for the fixed output, Stan recommended removing MLC5 / MLC6 ceramics if using this particular op-amp"
What if I use only headphones? Can I put LM4562 to headphone output (on right site) and remove those ceramics or this mod (LM4562 to fixed/variable output and removing ceramics) is only for using with speakers?
I'm not good in soldering so this mod for me will be rather permanent :(
Providing it is possible for headphones, is it good mod for my Denon which are known for a little bit boomy bas (a bit out of control)
If you are staying with the PCM1716 DAC, then I fully recommend cutting the MCL 5 / 6 and putting dual 4562NA opamps in.
I got the WM8716 DAC done by tirna, and have just polished off the 36k mod on the caps, bringing them back into the loop. I found it significantly lacking in bass with the MCL 5 / 6 caps cut.
If I'm honest, I preferred the 1716 with MCL 5 / 6 cut, and dual 4562NA.
The WM8716 is totally unforgiving when it comes to recording quality and mastering.
And Mikes cables amplifies this too.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZebuTheOxen
Who is Mike? Fairly sure I don't have his cables...?Quote:
Originally Posted by trailer
Big thanks to Tom for his assistance with my AKG K701 question.
I performed the MLC5/6 mod and stuck a 4562 opamp into the headphone socket. This is a great combination with the 701s and really makes them sing. I have also experimented with different opamps in the lineout socket as I understand that this has an impact on the headphone sound too - have eventually settled on the THS4032 because it seemed to add a little extra to the low end grunt.
Very happy. Not intending to change this combo.
Ade
Quote:
Originally Posted by apmusson
Seems the audio quality at work through using 7520 to power my headphones sounds considerably worse than at home.
I assume its a power issue, since I work in middle of town in business district, before this I thought power conditioning was total bs :S
Has anyone had any success with battery mods? Or anyway to get it to adapt it to make use of a battery system?
Im up for a bit of a challenge :P
ta
Hi Shane,Quote:
Originally Posted by Shanedudddy2
I coupled mine upo temporarily to a small totally enclosed lead acid 12v battery 'liberated' from my burglar alarm system when it was last serviced (over 15 years old but giving a charge across the terminals of 13.4v but 12.4v at the 7520) and I could not determine any deterioration in sound quality, so I went back to the supplied PSU. If it helps, from Stan, the plug/jack is 1.3mm diam and centre positive.
Cheers,
I believe Mr Beresford tried out battery power but found it didn't offer any benefits and caused more technical difficulties than were worth the effort. I'd suggest trying a budget mains conditioner like THIS and seeing if that made any difference.
Yep I tried a battery and didnt think it made any difference
Yep, I got one of these as a trial - I didn't think I had a problem with the mains but went on Alex_UK's recommendation - and I found it did improve things. This ain't gonna make much sense perhaps but the silence was silenter and the 'noises' were clearer- not a night and day improvement but noticeable nontheless.Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFidelityGuy
For the asking price, £26 new or £20 S/H, it's worth a gamble IMHO.
Cheers,
I've got one too and I found it lowers the noise floor a little. Like you say, not a massive improvement but worth the money. On the down side I found it seemed to reduce the dynamics when used with my power amps, so I now just use it on low power kit like DAC, Blu-Ray etc. That seems to give a good compromise. It proved to me that mains conditioning can give benefits and has made me want to try more advanced products that claim to be more effective and have less of an impact on dynamics.
As DaveK has mentioned, I was a complete non-believer, but tried the Tacima nonetheless (after reading an article in one of the mags - worth a gamble for the cost of a few CDs) As DaveK says, not night and day stuff (I didn't perceive I had a problem anyway) but the difference was noticeable (and being honest, sometimes I struggle to notice big changes in systems!) - I would definitely try one first, before modding to battery power - you might be surprised... if not, you'll get back most of what it cost 2nd hand. (I'd give you £20 for it, would use it in my AV system...) How about that - your upgrade is even underwritten! ;)
What is the value of the original MLC5 and MLC6 caps? Mine are clipped on one end. Could I just add a 36K resistor in series?
Think i`ll give it a go and see how it works with the mains conditioning, no harm i suppose if all else fails i got a surge protection extension lead right lol =P
Going by memory I think the original ceramics was 100pf so it needs swapping for 100NFQuote:
Originally Posted by Codifus