My Thorens TD 124 Mk1 - restoration project

I also bought a TD124/I a few weeks back - bought as refurbished, but I really didn't expect it to be as the motor rivets were still in place. However, the thing is damned silent standing on it's bolts on a wooden table. I need to mount an arm and test it out soon, but am still looking for a cost effective plinth.

I'd suggest stripping/cleaning/relubing everything as a first steps, and to then assess what needs to be done depending on how it runs.

Mine;
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1636/...c1b9ba1c_c.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1485/...f843e4f0_c.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1455/...2b3d8481_c.jpg

Richard

Hi Richard,

regarding the plinth my favourite is the Ortofon-ST104 style, but it's quite expensive...
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com...8e6147745a.jpg

I haven't find one for less than 300 euro...

Agreed, get the mechanics working well first.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by eu_73

Hi Richard,

regarding the plinth my favourite is the Ortofon-ST104 style, but it's quite expensive...
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com...8e6147745a.jpg

I haven't find one for less than 300 euro...

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You will not find one for that price, even a wreck. I have an original ST104 that cost more than twice that, but it is in fantastic condition.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ammonite Acoustics

You will not find one for that price, even a wreck. I have an original ST104 that cost more than twice that, but it is in fantastic condition.

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Hello Hugo,

just a question: the original one is in real wood or in MDF / HDF?

Lovely plinth, but beyond my budget I guess...

Mine is one from Schopper... nicely made and looks identical to the original Ortofon. The arm board too!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dowser

I also bought a TD124/I a few weeks back - bought as refurbished, but I really didn't expect it to be as the motor rivets were still in place. However, the thing is damned silent standing on it's bolts on a wooden table. I need to mount an arm and test it out soon, but am still looking for a cost effective plinth.

I'd suggest stripping/cleaning/relubing everything as a first steps, and to then assess what needs to be done depending on how it runs.

Mine;
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1636/...c1b9ba1c_c.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1485/...f843e4f0_c.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1455/...2b3d8481_c.jpg

Richard

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Aggh! You have separated the platter bearing shaft from the platter! The two should never be separated as Thorens will have gone to the trouble of adjusting for minimum run-out and balance.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Barry

Aggh! You have separated the platter bearing shaft from the platter! The two should never be separated as Thorens will have gone to the trouble of adjusting for minimum run-out and balance.

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lol... I heard about this before. I do that all the time for maintenance... It will balance up fine, don't worry. I've never had any problems.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Barry

Aggh! You have separated the platter bearing shaft from the platter! The two should never be separated as Thorens will have gone to the trouble of adjusting for minimum run-out and balance.

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Does that apply to a Mk1? IIRC the Mk1 iron platter does not have any scope for such adjustment - it just slides over the bearing stub, as the picture above shows. The Mk2 alloy platter is a different matter, but the inner idler surface and the outer edge of the platter are actually machined together to have the same concentricity. So, it's very easy to set the run-out by using a simple reference point against the platter edge. You can get really obsessive with a run-out gauge, but the blade of a small screwdriver, placed with blu-tak against the platter edge, and a good pair of eyes is good enough to give the necessary reference, and gently tapping the platter one way or the other results in perfectly true running within a minute or so. IMO, separating the bearing shaft from the platter is exactly what you should do - it's far too easy to damage the bearing trying to insert the shaft and platter together, compared to carefully inserting the shaft on its own.

The new Swissonor non-magnetic ferrous platter (which I use on my TD-124) has the same snug-fit over the bearing stub as the Mk1 platter. Why Thorens made the Mk2 platter the way they did is beyond me. A Lenco platter is far better designed and made.

http://www.swissonor.ch/images/Prod11.jpg