Yeah... Ruth is stranger than Richard ! :lolsign:Quote:
Originally Posted by Covenant
Printable View
Yeah... Ruth is stranger than Richard ! :lolsign:Quote:
Originally Posted by Covenant
I have a strong feeling that you won't like the 4562 in the line and the 2132 in the HPA. How do I know? I tried it:) In that setup the LM4562 has bass but the mids and highs, while present and accounted for, just don't inspire. It's all there but so what?Quote:
Originally Posted by Covenant
Gazjam's recommendation of OPA2132 in the line out and nothing in the HA really improved things for me. That sweet mid to high became a wee bit brighter.....just what I needed.
Again the OPA2132 has seduce me into "sitting down and enjoying the music."
My system is so close ...I still have a small urge for a little more Oomph in the bottom end.
My dilemna now is that I could get that Oomph back if I re-configure my system such that I use the pre-amp in my Yamaha integrated rather than using the TC-7520 as my pre-amp. What stops me from doing that is that when the 7520 is my pre-amp, the music is so much more alive. It's like, wow, so THAT's what my mid-range and tweeter can do. Unfortunately with that setup the bass or bottom end takes a very small step backward.
Decisions, decisions:confused:
CD
Anyone done any reading, or indeed tried out any of the projects from the 'lampizator' website? (www.lampizator.eu).
I'd been reading this page in particular:http://www.lampizator.eu/LAMPIZATOR/...ishizator.html
Especially the bit about building a single transistor based output stage into an 8-pin op-amp socket. It all sounds thoroughly intriguing. Unfortunately, I'm away for the weekend, so it will have to wait, but I'm thinking about this as a little project over the next couple of weeks.
On a separate note and having spent the train journey from Swindon to Cardiff this morning reading his amazing website, I was reading the bits on repairing CD players and improving the sound from budget players, so when I got home, to my delight, my parents old Yamaha (actually my old Yamaha) CD player of almost 20 years had been dug out for use but was skipping. An hour later with my new knowledge I not only had it playing faultlessly again but sounding a load better too after snipping out the caps in the output stage. I'm quite chuffed!
There's a chap on the Wigwam selling a pair or THS4032 op amps for free plus postage.
http://www.hifiwigwam.com/view_topic...jump_to=728282
Scroll down to the post by HectorHughMunro (#693)
I did the MLC mod a while back (which was a huge improvement), and have been trying different opamps again (mainly LM4562 and AD826) to see if they offered anything over the dual OPA2107 setup I was using. When I put both 4562's in I noticed they seemed to be a bit more precise with deep bass but a little timid at times, and after a while I couldn't stand the bad headphone driving capability so switched to AD826 on the headphone side. The 826 drives my Grado's possibly a little aggressive but works well.
I noticed though that the sound on the line out using the 4562 seemed to to working quite well, although I had been fiddling with speaker cables which may have biased the result slightly. Anyway recently I put a 2107 back in the headphone socket and I swear the line out doesn't sound as vibrant with this setup. It could well be ear and mood bias so intend to switch the AD826 back into the headphone socket to see if things improve.
Lovejoy,
Some DAC makers seem to swear by a transistor output stage. I'd be very curious of the effect of this transistor op-amp replacement suggested on the Fet-ishizator page you linked to. Do I have the balls and skills to do this at present? No. But I find the idea very interesting...
I've just finished up putting the 100nf cap + 36k mod into a 'caimanised' 7520. I was using the 10pf caps before, whoops.
Initial impressions, the occasional breakup I was getting with the K701s has cleared up mostly.
Bass is firm and well presented. The very very top end is ever so slightly recessed (Triangles at the back of the auditorium kind of thing) but I feel these were slightly too prominent before.
The roar of guitars and full weight of instruments is back, without being overly fat or round sounding.
Overall, a worthwhile mod. The only thing I'm waiting for now is the Caiman PSU and I have a feeling that will be it... Maybe ;)
ive got a LM4562na chip will it do the same job as a LM4562an?? also whats the difference between them? thanks
also is there a step by step with pictures on how to do the op amp replacment? and anything else u need to install at the same time? cheers
Dunno about no LM4562na. There is a LM4562HA, looks a little something like thisQuote:
Originally Posted by boomtheroom
http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:Z...A%255ENOPB.JPG
And then there's the LM4562NA, that looks like this
http://www.audioupgrades.co.uk/images/lm4562na.jpg
Basically, they do the same thing, there are divided opinions as to which one's better, but with the NA there's less hassle changing them.
What you have to do is take the cover out, spot the opamps (which are at the top somewhere around the area where the headphones out socket is). Gingerly take the opamp out and stick the replacement in, just as gently, without bending its legs. There's quite a few pics around in this thread, check pages 35-40, I think that's where you can find some of them, as well as explanations.
The little round indentation marks pin no.1 and should be top right corner as you look at the front of the DAC.
does anyone know what the letter on the end mean? ie is a lm4562 chipwith different end letters all the same?
The only ones that will go into the 7520 without adapters are the LM4562NA and LM4562HA.
It can mean different things for each make of chip, so you have to check the manufacturer's website / literature before you buy :)
has anyone sonically compared the two opamps..can seem to find any comparisons..what your thoughts?
It's somewhere here on one of the threads.Quote:
Originally Posted by boomtheroom
I fitted the SM version of the LM4562NA in my TC7510 and it sounds fan-bloody-tastic. IMHO of course.
Chris:)
whats the sm version?Quote:
Originally Posted by Stratmangler
Surface Mount.Quote:
Originally Posted by boomtheroom
Chris:)
ive just ordered my caiman...when i get it i will be connecting it to my pioneer a400 amp in the dining room which is 10meters away from my computer,which houses all my lossless audio files what will be the best option for connection coaxal cable or usb for that distance ...??...
S/pdif co-axial for long lengths
optical or coaxal??Quote:
Originally Posted by leo
any type of coax cable?
Goin to try a No opamp mod, bypassing the opamp and straight to integrated amplifier, I wonder if it will work
got my beresford today...nly problem is my amp in in the other room and about 10 meters of coax cable is between my computer spdif output and the dac...= lots of interference :-< any ideas for a fix?
I used to offer such a mod a few years back. However, the output from the PCM1716 is only 0.6Vrms. So you should connect the DAC's output to an AUX input on your amp. The WM8716 has a higher output at 1Vrms, which makes it a more attractive option.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shanedudddy2
hmm I have both so will try both and report how they are stock, is there anyway to boost it perhaps,to make it work better, just curious, saw something in another page here..hmm Caimen PSU page maybe where someone had modded to use no opamps.
Something like this...with all outputs functional!
http://theartofsound.net/forum/attac...1&d=1257366505
If you could PLEASE please provide me in some moderate detail, piccies would be nice :) of what you did and where on the board I would be oh so thankful. ^_^
Also how does it sound in comparison to various opamps you have used?
Thanks
Now this is interesting....
Hi Lemon,
Can you still close the lid?
I recently put 2 discreet opamp and they stick out.
which discreet?
are they an improvement?
Yes, I will give you any info about this, but forgive me for my "bad" english.
1) Yes, I can still close the lid
2) From the pdf of DAC, you find the Vout...they are to pin13 (R) & pin16(L). Then with a polymeter, find the appropriate points with the same signal on PCB...these are:
http://theartofsound.net/forum/attac...1&d=1257432933
3) From each point, put a MKP capacitor 2.2uF to RCA. I used the Solen
4) Put a resistor between RCA(+) and RCA(-) for each RCA mount (I must find my notes for the value).
You ask me "How does it sound in comparison to various opamps I have used?"
Very well...there is no opamp to give me the same sound! And I have used the original 5532, the BB OPA2134 and the 4032.
Due, to lower Vrms output...1Vrms, you need to give more power to have the same level of sound - but the stereo image is more (left and right and up) and the voices are less compressed.
The next month, I will try to measure this direct output and I will give you the result.
I am not a technician, a hobbist-man only.
Thanks, finding the resistor value would be great :)
Sound quality is most important ^_^, im suprised that u hadnt tried 4562 however
Forgive me the ≈1Vrms output is for Wolfson 8716 DAC not for 1716DAC.Quote:
Originally Posted by lemon
Some technical about outputs for yours info (note= the DAC has changed with Wolfson 8716).
Direct Output L = VACrms 1.11 (1KHz sinus, 0 Dbfs)
Direct Output R = VACrms 1.11 (1KHz sinus, 0 Dbfs)
Fixed Output L = VACrms 2.32 (1KHz sinus, 0 Dbfs)
Fixed Output R = VACrms 2.34 (1KHz sinus, 0 Dbfs)
Variable Output (max) L = VACrms 2.32 (1KHz sinus, 0 Dbfs)
Variable Output (max) R = VACrms 2.33 (1KHz sinus, 0 Dbfs)
(measure has done with Fluke 45)
1 KHz sinus (the two signal has adapted (Volts), for comparison reasons)
http://theartofsound.net/forum/attac...1&d=1257529634
20 KHz sinus (the two signal has adapted (Volts), for comparison reasons)
http://theartofsound.net/forum/attac...1&d=1257529701
From ≥5KHz the two signals begin and different stages. The signal of direct output precedence over the label fixed (I do not know if I wrote correctly).
Can someone explain to us, for what reason happening?
Sweet Mary, nobody told me op-amps and the Wolfson chip where so small;)
Just received a bunch of op-amps like the Tirna "modified" THS4032CD, one LME49720HA and two LM4562NA's along with an Wolfson WM8716 DAC chip.
But to small for my fat fingers I have to admit, at least the DAC chip is:doh:
And thinking I thought about doing the Wolfson DAC chip myself, no way in the next 2000 years:)
Better just send my 7520 to Tirna to get this done...
Martijn
You wont be sorry-they know what they are doing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubeman
Covenant. You have PM.
Sweet! Today I changed my fixed/variable op-amp with Tirna supplied THS4032CD model.Quote:
Originally Posted by Covenant
Man, what a difference! I could never have expected it to be so obvious;)
Deeper and more controlled bass, overall crisper sound, various instruments can now be distinguished from one anther and everything sounds more controlled.
Better sound stage, blablabla:smoking:
Fed my 7520 with some 24-bits 96KHz Vinyl Flac tune from my Macbook straight through optical from the output.
Put on some tunes from Tool, albums Undertow and Saliva.
Man what a sound, my system never sounded so good.
The music of both albums is filled with roaring bass, tiny little details, hauling guitars and at time sensitive and fragile vocals.
I really believe I now hear more of the details in the music, nice one!
The monster came allive today:)
Wonder what a Wolfson DAC upgrade would do:eyebrows:
Martijn
Very nice Cubeman! :eyebrows:
Today I popped down to Maplin and picked up some replacement capacitors (note: Do not use Tantalum caps for MCL 5 / 6, they sound awful) and picked up a 6-pin DIL socket.
6-pin DIL? Ohhhhh yes!
I chopped it in half with some wire cutter pliers, popped out the middle pin on both halves, trimmed the nasty bits, shortened the legs a tiny bit and soldered the remaining two legs into the MCL 5 + 6 positions.
I can now swap caps / resistors in these positions much more easily :)
Sound is unaffected, and significantly improved having swapped out the Tantalum caps.
I got the suggestion for the socket from another thread, thanks to whoever mentioned it - great idea! :smoking:
I've got a bottle of Glenfiddich 18 y/o and my CD collection, a good kind of saturday night ;)
Nice one ZebuTheOxen!Quote:
Originally Posted by ZebuTheOxen
Been enjoying myself last saturday night with some great music, some Endradour 10y/o and Laphroaig Quarter Cask:cool:
Martijn
hi first post here
just purchased a beresford 7520 of ebay a few weeks ago . What a bit of kit!!!
it came with an uprated op amp which had never been installed . First impressions 'out of the box ' was good, it brigthened up my old marantnz cd52 mkii .
Being a bit of a tinkerer the lid was quickly removed and the new op amp installed (its the one with cap connected between pins 4-8) . To be fair this did take a bit to burn in but over all i think the bass and depth of the music has increased a good deal.
Today I changed alll the 100uF caps with better ones (nichon audio spec i think low esr etc.)and there has been a noticable difference straight away . All other caps will eventually be changed, even the 10000uf power cap , when time/funds/delivery permits.
next on the agenda will be installation of the wolfson dac chip, I ve got one on the way but with the xmas post crisis that could be a week or too!
eventually i hope to change the voltage regulators with some quieter versions, and either buy a new power supply or design one .
a little word on my system
my amp is a bob latino st70 valve amp
http://bob01605.50webs.com/
very nice the detail is amazing, bass response good too for a valve amp
the speakers are audio nirvana super 8's which I put in their 2.8mkii enclosure , these are about a 1m tall and have a effieceny of about 106dB/W, very clear very detailed VERY LOUD lowther replicas.
my cd player at the mo is a marantz cd52mkii but this will be upgraded very shortly to a phillips 950, which will get the lampizator treatment, and be used solely as a transport thanks to my beresford .
all my leads are home made using shielded satelite co-axial (well it has a bandwidth of 300MHz so audio or sp/dif should have no problems(it wipes the floor with some of my other 'dedicated audio ' leads which i payed a bit of money for) ,it also cuts down any magnetic interference).
All in all I can say although the beresford is the cheapest bit of kit in my setup it really really has brought the best out of the other elements and the ability to tinker with it really really has brought a smile to my face !!WOW
thanks
James
You obvoiusly know what your doing James......
Are you planning to upgrade the power supply? Please keep us informed. With regard to the replacement parts you have fitted what sort of cost for components are you talking about?
James: I have replaced my opamps and some caps, and I agree that the improvements were very noticeable. I started with the 47uf caps rather than the 100uf ones though. Please keep us informed with your upgrades, as I am interested in doing similar tweaks.
Have you guys at all modified the circuit board with the 2 opamps on them... seems like it would be a hard place to access and fix it back up...with the silicon all there, has anyone done that... or just left that alone?
Plan to do some capacitor mods myself, anyone think any resistor upgrades would be worthwhile too?
Hi James! Great first post :) It's great to have you aboard. Have you thought about posting some pics of your system over in the Gallery? Or some pics of your projects in the DIY Gallery? It'd be interesting to see your stuff!Quote:
Originally Posted by jcgrant
hi guys thanks very much,
so far the mods for the beresford have cost about £20/ 25 euro.
That includes the the wolfson , and all the 47uF and 100uF caps . The only reason I fitted the 100's first was because they arrrived in the post first from Switzerland, the 47's are coming from Hong kong so they are a week or two away still (thank goodness for flea-bay) . I really really want to change the big cap but as of yet can't justify the £15 +delivery from the Hi-fi collective shop.
The 100 caps have given the bass a lot more depth its almost too overpowering but i expect that to settle down after a week or so failing that I can always cheat and use the tone control (at least i know its there for any parties/if i want to piss the neighbours off )
I notice quite a few people here are using a maplin power supply I might be interested in this for a quick and easy route to better sound .The beresford has what i think are two voltage regulators and from what i can read i think they are 7810(don't quote me on this just had a quick look) or 10v the other may be a 5v one for the chips. This would make sense having a 12v supply as most voltage regulators need an input at least 2v above they're ouput. I'm not sure if the beresford uses the raw 12v dc from the supply to power any of its circuits , if it does it would be better to regulate this as well at the power supply.
I will take some photo's of my stuff and hopefully put them on the gallery, when I've found my way round the site.
Thanks guys once again .
I think the Maplin PSU only really benefits the 7510
I replaced all the caps on that board and swapped out the opamps with some THS4032CDs, but that is it. I think you will probably notice the cap upgrades more than resistor upgrades, but I could be mistaken.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shanedudddy2
The change of resistance does not improve the sound, there are good resistors inside to 7520, all are metal resistance.
If you want to improve your 7520 around the opamp, then:
1) If you do not use the variable output, remove the variable opamp.
2) certainly change the dac-chip with the Wolfson 8716 (the major change).
3) change the signal capacitors with other best.
4) note that bigger supply voltage affects only the operator of variable output, the fixed output opamp is fed constantly to 10V because of 7810.
5) Experimen with a supply of batteries. The battery is free from noise. The best solution is to 5V battery power directly to the digital part (without 7805) and the section of the opamp power battery 10V & 12V
Do you have a picture of how you have implemented the battery aspect, you would remove the big input cap correct?
Don't remove the big input capacitor.
The series of input voltage is fisa->diode->current security (blue)->10000uF caps.
At first try to find a battery like 12V of UPS and then feed the 7520. How is it?
Then if you like it, remove the diode and current security (blue) or bypass them.
The best solution with batteries or only one battery is to feed each part of 7520 with the pure DC without the 7805 & 7810 voltage regulators.
You can to make another rail for DC pure and compare the two feeds.
I am sorry but my English isn't very good! A very good link is http://www.diyhifi.org/forums/viewto...afc228c2162b81
i also changed the caps on the driver board and then took out the uprated op -amp , just to hear the sound difference - put the uprated opamp back in the wrong way round and blew the op amp up, d'oh,ah well 8 quid for a new one !! not even for attemping the wolfson upgrade to tricky for my shaky hands may get it done in the new year after the stack of partys i have lined up for the festive period!
the caps make ad difference just slighly worth the couple of quid they cost and they tinkering was good .
i hope to put some pictures of my system up soon once i find my camera!!