mid 80's the coda3. 87 db, and decent speaker
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mid 80's the coda3. 87 db, and decent speaker
Right. That's the drive units out of the Corellis and any chips or knocks on the woodwork filled. They weren't bad really, the worst being spike marks on the bottom, but they'll look like new when I've finished. I'll get the meter out later and check the crossover cap values. Then rub down the cabinets and re-polish.
http://i67.tinypic.com/v5xpv9.jpg
http://i67.tinypic.com/25us3zk.jpg
Youve been busy. Look forward to the finished job
They weren't as scruffy as the Cheviots were when I first got them and those came up very well.
Fortunately, the grille cloths on these are mint. Saves me a bit of bother. I may add another thin layer of gasket when re-fitting the drivers, seeing as the originals are forty odd years old and probably a bit compressed. I'll leave the old ones on though, as they are intact.
Been looking for a pair of 24" stands for these. Nothing suitable locally yet. I might get lucky at the big boot sales, which are kicking off about now.
Used to have a silver set about that height. Not sure what happened to then actually. Might be still with me. Dont recall giving them away.
Here's a little tip for anybody re-fitting speaker units into their boxes. If you have any that screw directly to the woodwork. Put a drop of PVA glue into the old holes, poke it down and work it around with a cocktail stick or similar, then wipe off any surplus and let it dry. This stabilises the wood at the holes and reduces the risk of them stripping out as you tighten the screws down. As can often happen.
Good tip that folks...but do wait on it drying or youll never get them out again;)Quote:
Originally Posted by walpurgis
The PVA has little affinity with metal and will not really adhere.
Better still iMO is my now standard method of using a scriber coated in superglue which readily runs into the wood garin and dries quite quickly due to the high number of hydrogen atoms in the cellulose of the wood.
You then get a perspex thread which is really strong, but you must allow the glue to dry, determined by smelling it, when wet the fumes are really eye watering. Remove external excess with a cotton bud and see the smoke it froms due to the intense reaction.
Yes. I've also used the superglue method. Both ideas work.