Apparently, this adaptor resamples to 48kHz. I'm guessing this is not a good thing?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sensimilia
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Apparently, this adaptor resamples to 48kHz. I'm guessing this is not a good thing?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sensimilia
I should have left well enough alone. I modded my 7510 mk6/4 with a LM4562 opamp and it sounded great. But I read about several peoples' preference for the 4032 and that prompted me to remove the LM4562 and install a dip adaptor from Browndog. Instead of cutting the legs off of the LM4562 I tried to tease it off so I could remount it to use it with the Browndog. Although this attempt partially damaged the contacts on the CB, I was able to get an OPA2132 dip chip to work with some noise. I then mounted a THS4032ID with a 100nf cap over pins 4 and 8 onto the Browndog and smoked the chip. :smoking:
At this point I just wanted to get back to where I started from but removing the adapter and remounting the LM4562 was more than the board could be expected to take and now I have a dead DAC. It is the second 7510 that I have butchered in 6 months! I am not looking for sympathy and must admit that it felt pretty good when I got the first LM4562 installation right. I guess what I have learned is, if I plan to try to various opamps on the 7510 I should install the adapter first to avoid repeated stress on the circuit board. :doh: I hope that this tale can help someone else to avoid a similar fate.
DACless in Stamford
Why not just build a new output stage on vero and wire it in;)
Would love to try it but I would need a very patient coach.Quote:
Originally Posted by leo
Anyone had a go at swapping CC1 and CC2 caps and if so any beneficial changes to the sound? Would something like a Wima 220pf be worth a go (I have a couple spare).
I am looking to improve the transparancy of the 7510 via the variable outputs a tad.
Regards
What I have tried is to replace the opamp to a LM4562 and to replace the resistors around the opamp for high precision metal film 1/8 Watts types. I also replaced the four surface mount caps for a couple of WIMA types I got from Maplin. But the job is a bit tricky. First the PCB needs to be removed from the case and some of the electrolytic caps need removing so that you can get to soldering the new resistors and caps. Not something for the faint of heart.
Stan
Hi Stan,
I have already done the 4032 opamp swap and Mod21 part 2 (I have the Wima's in C5 and C6). Could you let me know the ref codes for the others worth trying.
Regards
Does anyone know the optimum solid core wire size to replace the ribbon wire on the 7510 as jgarner71 has done on page 19 - reply 189 (amp and diameter)?
The ribbon cable on my 7510 is looking a bit worn/breaking and I would like to replace it with similar stuff.
Regards
Chris
my ribbon cables also broke after taking the boards out of the case several times for modding. My symptoms were the input switches not responding and the leds not lighting up if the end wires broke. I replaced both ribbons with 0.6mm dia solid core wire which fitted the pcb holes fine and was easy to cut and trim to identical lengths for a neat looking job. However solid core might not the best choice if continuing to flex the boards about but since I don't need to take the boards out again it's ok. The hardest part is desoldering the ribbon without lifting any pads or tracks on either side of the board so a good spring loaded desoldering "sucker" is worthwhile.
0.6mm dia solid core = 0.28 mm2 tinned copper with 0.3mm pvc insulation, 1mm overall dia, 70 deg C rating 1.8A, 0.064 ohm/metre
Thanks Freddiecas.