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Hi, how did you get to the bottom of the headphone pcb to change the ribbons? My volume knob is on so tight I am afraid of levering it off in case I break the pot? I wanted to change the electrolytics and those mylars on that pcb too :)
regards,
Fred
Thanks Leo. After my last experience that's the first thing I did after powering it up. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by leo
Maybe I'll try some of those Evox in the future. Your right about the parts. It sounds different than yesterday. I promised myself I'd give it 2 weeks before passing judgement though.
Edit: On second thought I was able to get a sensitive part or my hand on the AD8066 and noticed it's ever so slightly warm. I couldn't feel it with my finger tip. It doesn't sound bad but maybe I'm not getting the best performance. Any thoughts?
What I did was get some needle nosed pliers behind the base of the knob from the inside. Then applied firm pressure and turn the knob a little each time. Eventually the glue will give way. Unless they used super glue on yours. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by freddiecas
Hi,
I have somewhat succeeded with MOD 21 part one. (Inadvertently burnt off some copper tracks along the way too!) and I'm moving onto part 2
my LM4562MA is already on it's way and I basically have 3 questions.
1. I have these caps. I believe they are 220pF. But I have no idea what make or how suited they are for audio. bought it off a local electronics shop. Do I have to get the WIMA ones that Stan specifies?
2. When soldering in the caps (the rectangular ones), is there polarity to observe?
3. Can i just swap out the opamp and replace it with the LM4562MA without adding the capacitors?
I think i'm somewhat handy with the soldering iron, but i have zero electronics knowledge. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!
My unknown caps
http://i39.tinypic.com/feo0np.jpg
Hi you dont need to use wimas, they are just renound as being good quality, but some poeple don't like them. Its just a preference.
The wimas don't have a polarity. So can go eitther way.
As far as i am aware i thin the caps are meant to be installed with the op amp as this is part of the sound. Soi think it's a yes, they do need installing at the same time. Im sure Stan will correct me if i am wrong.
I would do the op amp forts beofee the caps if i were you. Its easier as the space is tight. Alos use a sharp knife to chop the legs of your old op amp, remove its body and then unsolder the remaining legs. Thats the wy i did it.
I can't get the Wolfson to stop being noisy. Sodding thing.
I guess its time to go back to the standard chip. I guess no one has experienced the noise between songs just doing the Op Amp / cap change out?
Go back to burr Brown M8 - it sounds really good with the LM4562MA opamp. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by trailer
Looks like that's the plan. Like I said, I've got a spare Wolfson here if anyone wants to have a shot with it.
Those are ERO MKP1830, they are far superior than the Wima's! low inductanceQuote:
Originally Posted by snowflake
Only fit them if you know the value though, is there any numbering on top of the cap?
Hmm, so does the chip mute when no music is playing? without knowing the original 7510 output circuit I can't advise what to swap to what, it needs scoping mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by trailer
Your going to need Stan on this, ideally it wants tweaking
Have you scanned all evaluation board schematics for the Wofson chip? it needs comparing against the TC-7510 circuit and then working out what needs to be added or changed