Agreed Leo.I had a quick listen to an unmodded one a while back and was very underwhelmed.Was the main reason I didn't get into this streaming malarky sooner.
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Agreed Leo.I had a quick listen to an unmodded one a while back and was very underwhelmed.Was the main reason I didn't get into this streaming malarky sooner.
Hi James,
I've not tried the Super Teddy regged supply with the Duet or Superclock4 yet, its currently being used with the Caiman but I will try it when I get time , its not hard adjusting the voltage etc.
I have tried the NCPSU but not with Superclock4
Hi guys,
What does the adjustment screw on the top of the Superclock do?
Finally got around to trying the Super Teddy regged supply with the Superclock 4 , it seems to work well . Even though this is an excellent clock the pre regged supply supplying it has an influence sonically so go for the best you can :)
Thanks Mark, I have been sent one of those QA550 card readers to play about with, it uses the same frequency as the Duet so I could try the Superclock4 with that too just to see how much it improves things, tbh I'm quite impressed with this SD player although its not the most user friendly of devices :)
Hi,
Just received a week ago my SC4 to mod my SB Receiver, but I'm not 100% sure how to install it.
No instructions about how to install it was delivered.
No mention of the clock speed or supported voltage indicated on the device.
No answer from Audiocom support for nearly a week.
etc...
I will appreciate if any of you can help me avoiding doing something wrong :
http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/6546/sc4rp.th.jpg
Can I simply solder the clock like this ?
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/599/sc41y.th.jpg
Found here :
http://www.lampizator.eu/LAMPIZATOR/...transport.html
That will avoid lots of parts removal and simplify the soldering.
Thanks in advance for your help.
BR
Hi Yves, welcome to AOS.
Can you pop into the welcome Section of the forum and say hello before the forum owners nab you :)
You can use an unshelded cable from the Superclock4 output but keep it short as possible, I'd personally take out any not needed Receiver stock XO parts which are seen on the output of the new clock, I can't say how things will react if leaving the stock parts in.
I just run a single red wire for DC input (taken from a point near the DC input socket ) and run a single blue wire to the nearest ground to keep it short
BTW Audiocom may be a little busy, Marks always provided excellent service so I'm sure he'll be in touch soon as possible
I'd be very cautious about how most of those mods have been implemented :doh: http://www.lampizator.eu/LAMPIZATOR/...transport.html
Hi Leo,
I'll use the shielded cable that comes with the SC4, and for sure will keep it as short as possible.
I'll also use a shielded power cable and connect the ground as you suggest to a nearest point.
What's the benefit of soldering a cable between bottom pad of Y2 and right hand side of R104 ?
Some people also connect the clock directly to the Xilink, did you try that solution ?
Did you use an insulation part between the clock and SB board ? I don't see anything.
BR
Hi Yves,
I run separate regulation to the spdif buffer IC etc, these get their supply from near the DC input socket too. I need to update the thread when i get time.
I run the Superclock4 directly to the Xilinx (as in no circuitry inbetween), its just in a different position to make use of the larger pads on the pcb, soldering onto the Xilinx pin would be best but I thought some may find this way easier. If you feel confident , soldering it directly onto the Xilinx pin would be good:)
Regarding insulation, I fitted a couple of plastic spacers with sticky pads one side and a tie wrap on the other, for now the clock just sits on them to allow easy removal for trying in other stuff , its enough to stop it shorting anything .
BTW, hurry up and get it fitted then let us know what you think :eyebrows:
Hi Leo !
I've fitted the clock :
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/8606/55830603.th.jpg
Connected the + IN directly to V IN of J1 and used the GND to shield the cable.
Connected the clock GND IN to the nearest SB GND, just 2cm of cable (the green one).
Removed the useless parts around the original clock and soldered the clock to R104.
Added a 470uF caps to pin 3 and 9 of J9 as it's done here :
http://www.lampizator.eu/LAMPIZATOR/...ort/sqb-21.jpg
I was a bit anxious to turn power ON and face some smoke, but everything went OK and music is playing :-)
In term of sound quality I haven't yet noticed any differences between original clock and SC4, will see the next few days if things change.
BR
Hi Yves,
Thats surprising, feeding an external dac I noticed a difference soon as Superclock4 had been fitted , the sound quality was up and down during the first few days, things then started getting much better after about a weeks run in. I think those Oscon caps take time to bed in, Anyway see how you go with it and keep us updated:)
I realise I am resurrecting an old thread but a comment you made in this very interesting post (thank you, by the way) makes me think that you may be able to help me with a query that has been bothering me for a while: I have swapped out a couple of the clocks on a motherboard that I am using as an audio streamer to good effect - a significant uplift in sound quality - but the southbridge XO input requires a much lower waveform voltage that the TCXO that I am using gives out.
You mention that you attenuated the clock output. I need to do the same but I have tried various methods without success (Rod coleman kindly suggested I use a capacitor divider on diya but the waveform refuses to budge) - how did you do it?
Many thanks,
Crom