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Why do you need bolts to go all the way through the case?
You could use lengths of threaded rod and put acorn nuts on the back.
The other option is to use studs that thread into the face plates. The type that go a few inches into the wood with a hole in the side (inside) for one of those 1/4 turn locks. Im not explainging that well, but the kind of thing that often holds flat pack firnature together.
Rather than acorn nuts you could use this kind of internaly threaded, flush allen cap.
http://www.bsjfixings.com/details.php?productID=2523
On this page you can see the studs i mean, and the cams that lock eveything together
http://www.bsjfixings.com/splash.php?groupID=559
Just another couple of ideas.
Ahhhh, they're called cross dowels!
http://shop.comdir.co.uk/Products.as...rWebTemplate=C
That is precisely what I am doing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
After I struggled to find allen bolts or any kind of bolts for that matter, which were longer than 200mm I gave up and am going threaded rod with domed nuts recessed slightly into the back panel.
I did think about that, but thought it would require much more in the way of wood working that drilling 4 holes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
I now have most of the bits for the case. I guess this is the first bits of proof that I really am building a case for the Caiman.
I'm still waiting on the Volume pot and knob, but they have been ordered.
Just need to get the faceplate's done now, then I can start the long and much anticipated assembly process. :eyebrows:
Here are a couple of photos of the part thus far for the case.
http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/7074/p1020678jw.jpg
http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/4572/p1020679.jpg
I have purposefully left out 1 part as its part of an upcoming mod and therefore a surprise. :ner:
........a graphic equalising module?!?!?!?
:lolsign: :DQuote:
Originally Posted by The Grand Wazoo
Instead of using threaded rods and allen screws, try the following:
- Make a skeleton using metal similar to PC cases
- All the panels can be screwed from inside except the front panel so that only the front panel screws will be visible outside.
- Use T nuts to screw on to wood
This will give a similar finish as the Yamaha CDP (CD2000) and more stable.
I have attached a rough picture.
Top View : The black colored panels are front and back panels. The grey colored panels are the wooden pieces on both sides. These can be screwed to the metal frame (red color) from inside with T Nut in the wood piece.
Side View : The red colored is the skeleton made of either metal (preferred) or wood.
Finished : Check the overlapping front and back panels over the wooden panels.
I did indeed think about building the case as you mentioned.Quote:
Originally Posted by cmsajith
I decided against it however as I wanted as many fixings as possible concealed from view, inside and out. Hence why I decided on the 4 domed nuts on the rear as that's all there would be holding most of the case together.
Ha ha, Nooooo! :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by The Grand Wazoo
Its not that complex.
Brownie points to the person who gets the right answer though. :)
A minor update for everyone.
I have all of the parts for the case now. All i need to do is make up the wooden sides and then get the front and rear panels machined.
These however, have been put on hold for a few weeks (until around easter time infact).
I will continue to provide updates should things happen on the project.
Nice job!
I am thinking of tackling the same thing except I'd like to a add a motorized volume control, and remote input selection as well.
Did Stan fill you in on the value of the pot??
I started my thread here:
http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...d=1#post132917
Gotta have some updates for us. I was really enjoying the developments so far!!!
Nathan
With any luck there will be some more updates in the next coming months or so.
Watch this space... :)
This is my new case for my Beresford.
I keep the same front layout like original.
I would a new higher cabinet with space for a linear PSU and Obbligato 15uF/250V.
For this reason, I used a case 8X17X23cm.
http://www.audiophonics.fr/images/hifi2k_gx.jpg
The back of case, from left to right - optical (under), usb (upper), coaxial s/pdif, fixed & analogue outputs.
http://www.avclub.gr/forum/attachmen...1&d=1290186437
The front of case, with Brushed Alluminium Face.
http://www.avclub.gr/forum/attachmen...1&d=1290186437
I think so that the two last photos, has gone...
I upload again the photos.
The back of case, from left to right - optical (under), usb (upper), coaxial s/pdif, fixed & analogue outputs.
http://theartofsound.net/forum/attac...1&d=1290761816
The front of case, with Brushed Alluminium Face.
http://theartofsound.net/forum/attac...1&d=1290761809
Wow, Manolis - very impressive! :)
I've always said that the Caiman deserves a better case than what is currently supplied. I wish James would get his act together, too! ;)
I wonder what Stan will think?
Marco.
Nice one Manolis! That's the exact case I've been thinking about getting for my Caiman, so it's good to see that it works well. :eyebrows: Did you get yours from www.autocostruire.com ? I'd like to see a photo of the inside as well if that's possible? Also, how did you do the lettering on the front panel, it looks very professional? Cheers. :)
Maybe I should send him a free Gator sample on behalf of the AoS community as a reward for originality and effort :).Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
It would be helpful if we could get some more info in case anyone else wants to do the case mod as well.
That is very good isn't it, looks very well done!
Yes indeed,nice job. Another good source for chassis is modushop. Good prices and they will CNC whatever you want.
I'm glad you liked it ...
Wow, a gift from Stanley to me, thanks for this! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyB
The case hasn't a lot of room (23X17X8). My first big problem was, how to fit all these (toroidal, PSU circuit, pcb, Obbligato Capacitor) into the case!
The construction of made was:
1) I think to put the toroidal away from pcb circuits. For this reason, removed the board with the rca from the back of the box.
I put the toroidal to the left back of case with the circuit at the middle and the right back of case, I fit the usb pcb and the new small pcb with optical receiver.
http://theartofsound.net/forum/attac...1&d=1290807238
2) The two main boards were placed together, one above the other, with appropriate spacers. For the circuits joints, were made properly connectors. Also, the potentiometer was removed and lengthened. The big one Panasonic TSUP 15000uF capacitor has removed (it was from an other project with battery).
http://theartofsound.net/forum/attac...1&d=1290807747
3) Now there is a room btw pcb and the back of case that is a enough for the 2 Obbligato Premium 15uF/250V (bypassed them with Vishay MKP1837). Also I put the low and high filter according to datasheet Wolfson Dac Chip.
The black cables are RG59 (75 Ohm) and the red ones are interconnect with 68pF capacitance per meter.
http://theartofsound.net/forum/attac...1&d=1290807894
4)The major problem was with frontal face of case. I designed and drilled alone using a table-drill and simple HSS drill bits and stepper drills. The letter painting has done from a local printing company on my design with a little euros.
A complete test of this project, you will see at the: http://www.mlemo.gr/upload/Caiman_Ob...case_48KHz.htm
wow looks brilliant lemon would look a treat with my new CA 840a v2 Amp
excellent job :)
Excellent work.
It funny, I often call people a "lemon" when they have done somthing a bit foolish... For example if someone banged thier head on somthing by accident ... In this case (excuse the pun) lemon is definatly not a lemon ... I hadnt spotted the psu was inside .... This is impressive stuff in my books!