@Stan: Would I be able to use those regs with the stock heatsinks? Also, what improvements have you heard after installing them?
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@Stan: Would I be able to use those regs with the stock heatsinks? Also, what improvements have you heard after installing them?
The Murata ones do not need the heatsink, so those need removing. The Murata current consumption is less than the 7812 currently fitted in the Caiman.
I didn't listen long enough to take note of the improvements with just he regs. I updated the caps at the same time, so detailed info is not available. But the depth of the detail in the music is now even greater. I can hear the voices of singers bouncing off the studio walls when they they raise the voice. This is clearly distinguishable from normal echo or reverb delay that is sometimes added to a track n order to create a similar effect.
@Stan: I noticed a similar effect from my cap upgrades, I will tell you what I end up with when I am completely done. Where can I find the murata regs in the US?
Stan, Couple of quick things.
Firstly, just to confirm the Regulators you linked (these) are the ones that should be used in the Caiman only, yes?
Also, the replaced caps...I'd be interested in having a play with these. :eyebrows:
You know how it is....Your perfectly happy with something until some says you can make it slightly better by performing modifications within your skill sets, and with little cost :eek:
You also need:
Mouser Part No: 580-7805SR-C
Manufacturer Part No: 7805SR-C
I'll pm you about the caps.
Are these the ones Stan?
Rubycon 47uF 16v
or:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NK-Series-NONP...24182001r15518
It seems BlackGate did some 47uF/6.3v non-polorised ones buts they cannot be got any more.
Just use silmic ii caps, they sound very similar to the blackgates, and much better than the stock caps.Quote:
Originally Posted by Carson
Hi
I have ordered the Murata regulators to beef up the power supplies to the dac and amp. I wondered whether the cap upgrades would be worthwhile as I am not intending to use the headphone amp to drive my 701s, just the fixed lineout.
I hope to fit the Murata's after Christmas, but am interested if anyone tries the regulator upgrade independently of the cap upgrades....
Ade
You need four pieces for the line output, and another four for the headphone amp section. So the 30 piece offer would be more than enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by Carson
If you are not into headphone listening, then you only need to mod the line output.
What are the remaining 2 caps for then, I count 10 in the picture?Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyB
They are headphone mods for K701/HD650/HD800. They are 68nF/63V WIMA polyester types. Gives more detail in the bass on headphones.
Oh right. Well since my headphones are (unfortunately) not even slightly in that league of performance, I'll leave the remaining 2 alone. :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyB
Edit:
Oh wait, hang on. I assume the 2 WIMA ones your referring to are the red ones just right of the grey caps, yes?
I was talking about the 10 grey caps 4 on the left and 6 on the right. You only mentioned 4 for line out and 4 for headphones.
You only need to worry about the 4 on the left if it is only LINE output you wish to upgrade.
What would be the best capacitors to use for the 47uf 16V?
I just plan to replace the lineout capacitors and want the best I can get, the Blackgate equivalents, since they no longer make them.
The non-polarized Rubycon are quite good. But I have updated the circuit a bit. So best wait for a new picture to appear from me.
Have you done some further modding stan?
*waits for pictures :P
what are the BG equivalents....?Quote:
Originally Posted by Shanedudddy2
the 47uF 6.3V NX Hi-Q or something rated higher...?
Are all the caps 47uf to replace, i thought I saw some 100uf caps?
Ordered 2 Mundorf Mcap 2.2uf caps to do what lovejoy has done to bypass the opamp. hope it works well...probably overkill, but we`ll see.
Does anyone know why non polarized caps rather than polarized ones would offer upgrade to the opamp circuit? I thought that the non polars are just two caps back to back effectively. Is it more likely that the improvement in sound could be just down to a different cap?
Regards
Chris
I too was wondering this.Quote:
Originally Posted by chrism
I have, however, bought a load of the 47uF 16v non-polarised caps that stan recommended. Just awaiting their arrival then I shall get stuck in with the soldering iron.
http://www.homehifi.co.uk/images/mods/caiman/caps.jpg
From left to right:
1. The standard PCB.
2. One fitted with the LM4562HA,
3. And the one I prefer for my headphones: the THS4032CD
Only 6 polarized caps should be replaced. Leave the others well alone. They are for the bias of the headphone amp.
Also replace the two yellow caps either side of the headphone opamp from 47nF to 68nF.
Looking good Stan:smoking:
Perfect, I shall give this a go.Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyB
I have 30 of the non-polarised caps on their way to me, I should also have 5 THS4032CD's & 5 OPA2132's on their way too me as well. All I need now are the 2 WIMA caps, and some SOIC to DIP pcbs and im ready to go.
Just a thought Stan, is it possible to get a second Op-Amp PCB with components? One for playing with or modifying and the other for a base comparison. Then maybe it would be possible to just switch the entire PCB to perform side by side tests of component combinations. :eyebrows:
Mind you, I'm sure that's what you do anyway... :lol:
I know what I am doing this weekend :)
Can any of these alterations be applied to the 7520 Stan? (and is it worth it)
They work fine on my TC-7520 as well.
Stan,
Looks good.
Following your testing do you prefer the LM4562HA (metal can) opamp to the standard LM4562's (plastic) for the line out circuit?
Regards
Chris
I have always preferred the THS4032CD for my system, and matches the combination of NS1000M & HD800 perfectly for me.
The LM4562 metal can type has more bass than the plastic version, but less detail and less treble, when used on my system.
The one on the right hand side looks quite interesting.
Two questions;
1) Where are the two yellow caps at the very top of the PCB attached to? The same place the blue ones are in the middle one?
2) Do these changes counteract the highly-strung needs of the THS4032CD? There is quite a lot of sibilance / frequency misrepresentation with them in the unmodified circuitry.
The two yellow caps are part of the Caiman PCB. They are not on the TC-7520 PCB.
anyone...? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by toad
Did the change of the regulators, pretty big difference imo =)
now for the op-amp bypass lol sound like I`m doing surgery :P...hmm i guess I am haha
Take note that if you bypass the line output opamp, you'll get a lot more sampling noise breaking through.
You'll also have a lot more problems with audio cable selection. The opamp acts as a buffer and impedance matching circuit. When you bypass it, the load is placed on the DAC chip, which is not designed to act as a buffer and impedance matching network. The DAC chip output impedance is 10K loaded. The opamp output is less than 1K.
u mean the DC offset or something else?
I have no use for my Opamp board since doing my change, anyone want to buy it off me so they could mod it and do changes and switch the board in and out easily to test things?
How big a difference was the opamp bypass in your opinion?
Was a pretty decent upgrade in my books. Bass was the noticeable effect. Bass with opamps seems too be either bloated, tuneless or just plain not there. The revival of the Bass was the big thing for me, as well as improvement of all other areas, will put in some higher quality bypass caps in later and see how that sounds in comparison later on :D
Also wondering what would be the lowest capacitance value to use to prevent DC offset from the DAC? As smaller valued capacitors are cheaper
Hi Shane,Quote:
Originally Posted by Shanedudddy2
Please PM me with a price for the op-amp board - no commitment either way.
Dave.
I would be interested in seeing pictures of this, if its not too much to ask.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shanedudddy2
Okay dokes, right now its messy as and can be done a LOT cleaner and safer, but alas to give you an idea I`ll try and take some pics some time.
Had a go at Stan's non polar upgrade to the opamp circuit a few days ago and like the changes to the sound. Still running in but I can detect more depth in the music and the treble has a bit more life without being over done. I used the Rubycon 47uf/16v caps from ebay.
This is with the standard LM4562NA opamps and a 15v linear power supply.
Nice one Stan (and Leo).
Regards
I have found these 47uF 16V Black Gates at Parts Connexion whom I've used before. Could someone who has done this please check that the dimensions are ok? I only need four for the line out so price is not an issue.
http://www.partsconnexion.com/capaci...ackgate_f.html
The mod needs non-polarized caps to be effective. I am not sure those BG are such types.
Anyhow, I might have one spare set left over. If you are not doing the headphone section mod as well let me know. I can post you a set of the caps with the Caiman PSU next week for you if I do have enough left.
Thanks Stan, I'll go with that offer since I'm only doing line out. Can you adjust the PayPal payment before you send it to me?
Hi Martin,
Those BG caps diameters are a bit big. They are 10mm dia and the Rubycon's I used are 8mm dia and only just went in (touching together).
Stick with Stan's as they look to be Rubycons also (same colour and overall look anyway).
Regards
Will do, thanks chrism.
Hi Martin,
Sorry to butt in here, but have you received the new bearing yet for your 1210? Chris has got his :)
Marco.
Hi Marco
Not yet - but then nothing has been delivered to Basingstoke for the last two days. I will let you know the minute I receive it.