Sounds a bit more precise
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Sounds a bit more precise
All I can say is that the TA-2021 Mini-T amp and Fostex FF125WK speakers are a very good match indeed. The speakers are easy to drive since they are a full-range driver with no crossover and I suspect that this is the trick with T-Amps: easy-to-drive speakers. It's part of the reason that I went down the Fostex route and not the LS3/5a route.
Yep, been my experience too, they need easy to drive speakers.
I fully agree about the need for easy to drive speakers but in my system the speakers are just about the only item that has been consistent. Matching the room and other components somehow seems more critical than with "normal" amps. It would be easy to say that's because the T amps are hi res, I don't think it's as simple as that. Maybe it's a phase characteristic that some other components mustn't double up on.
Interesting! There may be something very revealing and/or interacting with other components or the room going on. I'm certainly getting the idea that they're very transparent with high efficiency simple speakers.
I may have stumbled across the reason for my occasional discomfort with the Bantam Gold and Arjen amps in my system. The Arjen btw is TA2020 based whereas the Bantam Gold is an AD chip. It seems both devices include an opamp which inverts the signal. It looks like both these amps invert the signal. Normally this wouldn't be a huge issue but there are two factors in my case:
1) I do seem to be a person who is sensitive to absolute phase, at least in my own, well known to myself room and system - however this is the minor point.
2) the major point is that I run active bass in my system, my bass and mid have been running out of phase with these amps (not my valve though), given a fairly shallow rolloff between mid and bass I've had some cancellation with my upper bass.
I now understand why I was getting a slightly thin sound. Swapping the cables over at the chip amp outputs is all I needed to do.
Nice discovery, Clive, and very satisfying I should think.
Absolutely Martin, it's great to have a simple workaround and such a clear reason/explanation for my original concern about the sound I was hearing.Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
Most interesting Clive, I wonder if that's why I don't really miss the valves when I swap back to using two Golds?
It could be a factor Ali, I've been doing the same, comparing apples with pears to a certain extent.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali Tait
I will haul the valves out and have a go when I get a chance.
In my case it's made the T-amp sound better rather than the valve sound better.....
I'll see if I notice any difference.
Just thought I'd join and say my Arjen Helder TA2020 MKIII T-Amp driving a pair of Eltax Monitor IIIs really does a good job.
I mainly use it for nearfeild but it performs equally well in a small room. Soundstage is broad and very well defined. Bass is a little boomy but I really do mean a little bit - I think it could be tightened up by changing some caps out.
Overall this setup brings out details in music that I usually associate with headphone monitoring and it is remarkably easy to listen to for extened periods of time. If you were to blind test it vs my much more expensive B&W / Marantz setup you'd be hard pushed to tell the difference at casual listening levels in a small room. In fact only that slight lack of tightness in the bass would give it away.
Arjen's boards are a really nice option when looking at T-Amps and he's just started selling the MKI prebuilt and ready to go for a little over £130 delivered. Comes fully remote controlled with optional bluetooth module - nice little setup.
I must admit to wondering about changing the 2.2uF input capacitors too.
I don't it's possible at the moment to beat a decent switching amp in the SPPV stakes, the quality on offer is amazing given the cost.
I altered the phase to adjust from the Bantam inverted phase, I had to cut back on the bass a bit as it was now being a bit to over powering, other differences are subtle in my system. I not touched phase on the sub amp.
Inverting phase between bass and mid can help sometimes when there's too much overlap but keeping the same phase should be more ideal with fewer side effects. In my case it seems to have mattered that I had bass and mid out of phase.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive
Been searching for this for a while and finally found it again;
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attac...y-dsc00014.jpg
He's uprated the buffer cap to 10000uf from 6800uf and swapped out the input caps for 250v 5.6uf @ 1% from the original 400v 2.2uf @ 3% caps.
I've tried to find those Dayton caps before but they don't seem to be available in Europe - best I could find are the Mundorf polyprops.
I see the pic, though I had to log into diyaudio:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Katch
Is that the latest version or a special tweak? Good 5.6uF polyprops will cost several times the price of the amp!
I'm trying to understand the 5.6uF caps. Maybe that's the only value he could get cheaply for some reason? 5.6uF works out at 1.5Hz, the Tripath standard 2.2uF is about 4Hz. Frankly in my system I expect 1uF would be fine.
That is a DIY Audio member's mod;Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class...ml#post2385639
that's a link to the post. Arjen is still using those red Audiophiler caps.
Thanks, now I understand. Audiophiler are Mundorf, the low end of of their range but pretty good sounding. I'm not convinced changing value of the 2.2uF caps is worth doing, as for the buffer cap, mines only 4,700uF, I remember Arjen increasing this previously from a lower value. It should make some sort of difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by Katch
When I tried the Arjen in my system it was very much love and hate. With the world Fusion its was stunning with guitar driven rock it was unlistenable
Now that I'd improved the T-amps in my system I had one further issue to understand. I kept swapping between the 4 power amps I have, I needed to get to the bottom of why my views were oscillating.
What I've found is that the Arjen sounds dynamic at any volume setting but in common with other TA2020 amps I've used it needs to be matched with other kit that's at least neutral or preferably a just a trace warm sounding. This is why people often say a valve preamp is a great match.
With the Bantam Gold, which uses a different chip, I found the sound was excellent at what I would call normal listening levels. This is quite loud and is for "critical listening" but not uncomfortably loud or pin you to the wall loud. Here's the BUT....but when I have the music on lower, such as when I'm working I find the sound is dead, totally flat. I know that John uses the Bantam Gold on it's high gain setting. I find this helps, it does add a little spice to the sound. My conclusion though that the amp needs to be playing past a certain power level before it comes on song. My speakers have a sensitivity of 100db/m, John's I think are 95db/m, this requires him to run the amps harder so it's playing in its sweetspot. Our mutual friend who has the same speakers as myself is fine with the amp but his room is about 2.5 times the volume of mine so again he runs the amp harder. Normally with chip amps you need to ensure you don't use too inefficient speakers, it seems that too sensitive speakers can be an issue too. Oh well, I'll just have to play my music loud.
I tend to like listening at louder volumes than most people I agree for the Batam to sound good it needs to be pushing out otherwise it is a bit flat
I have been thinking about this and today ordered an SA-S1. It's all your fault Martin! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
I will try it for a while in comparison with the Lepai then start thinking about a better power supply.
They're great fun to play with, Jerry, and won't break the bank.
I got that wrong Martin. It was the SMSL SA-S3 I ordered (black finish). I want to see what the extra power does as I suspect my speakers need a bit more headroom.
You will need to feed it 14V, Jerry, to yield the extra power.
Hmm yes, I have a variable supply and a Ripple Eater board however I have fried the toroidal transformer so will have to get a new one. All fun and games though.
I wouldn't mind seeing what one of these thins can do, look interesting. Has anyone got one they can loan me for a few weeks or maybe buy one?
If you can hang on until my new one arrives Joe, you can have my old one for a tenner plus P &P. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by The Black Adder
Sounds good Jerry... How long do you think it will be?
P.M sent.
So...what's the recommended T-Amp to get nowadays?
See post #1.Quote:
Originally Posted by Xapito
Thanks, managed to snap one from the classified's room, will leave some feedback when I get. Does the 14v 5amp psu makes an audible difference?
It's 1st test will be with some DM1's :lol: so a tough one for starters!
Have you even tried reading this thread? :eyebrows:
Yep, all posts, twice :D Just a bit suspicious considering it's RRP :ner:
Getting a bit worried about the SMSL-SA S3 I ordered last month. T'was posted from hong kong on 26th April and hasn't turned up yet. How long did yours take Martin?
The SMSL-SA S3 arrived yesterday :)
Out of the box it sounds excellent and has a nicely focused soundstage with a nice crisp presentation-very pleased. It's amazing that a box not much bigger than 20 fags can sound so good. I like the fact that the red 'on' light and blue volume knob light are subdued and not the usual laser beam.
I was planning to build a 14v linear supply but I wonder if I am wasting my time. One of the main reasons is to reduce interference but the amp will sit on top of a tower computer with lots of smps (scanner, display, router etc) within a metre or so.
A 13.8v 5 amp bench supply may be a more economical solution.:scratch:
The SMSL-SA S3 definitely works best from a 14V supply. Whether you want to go the whole way and build a Paul Hynes PSU is down to you, but certainly a 13.8V CB style linear PSU should sound better than the SMPS 'charger' style PSUs.
I have read through this thread - and very informative it is too! - and on the basis of comments have ordered an SA-S3 is TRIPATH Class T TA2021B amplifier.
I am a convert to the theory that the power supply can have a big influence on the sound/performance of hi-fi components and am happy to spend a bit to partner the amp with a suitable PSU.
First things first, although I am reasonably practical and can wield a soldering iron, I think that building one myself is not an option.......unless it comes in a complete kit and has good instructions!
The thread touches on various options....linear, switched, CB Thunderpole, etc........, but, I would welcome suggestions.
Would this one at Maplins be a contender?
Quite happy to spend up to £50......but, if there is something that will 'knock it out of water' for up to £100 then I would stretch to that. Also, if someone can suggest something that is less than this and does a cracking job then I would love top hear about that too.
Thoughts? :eyebrows:
Suggest you look at the Temple Audio thread Richard, where similar is confirmed, although I think the 7A version was suggested.;)
The beauty of these units is that you probably couldn't buy the case+tranny+switch+etc parts for the money, and if you want to tweak it by refining later you can do so... Pretty hard to blow out a 7A tranny with protection...:cool:
Thanks, Bob. Have had a read through all 10 pages of that thread and it did, indeed, suggest the Maplin one as a good option. I have ordered the 7A version and the only possible issue might be noise/hum, so, I'll just have to keep my fingers crossed it is a quiet one.
Will report back when I have amp and PSU.
Ah, I've just realised I will need a bit of wire to connect the 2 together!!!!! Can anyone tell me the spec of the plug that fits into the amp and, even better, where I could get one from?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbasrah
Richard , I'm using 2 of these in my system and they're very quiet indeed. I'm not sure which DC plug the SMSL uses but the cable can be connected to the PSU using bare wire connected to the post or connected using 4mm banana plugs .
You could cut the cable off an old PSU with appropriate plug fitted and connect to the Maplins PSU , that's what I did.
Brian, thanks - that's reassuring.
The problem I have is that the amp comes with no PSU at all!!!1 So, I am still wondering where to get a suitable plug to connect to the amp from.
Suggestions welcome!
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian2957
Maplin is probably the quickest, unless you don't mind waiting for the post.
..or, do you have any old mobile phone chargers with a suitable connector?