Cheers! :clap:
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Cheers! :clap:
Some things can't be rushed. I packed away a fortune worth of audio equipment the moment my wife said she was pregnant. It took me two decades and the need to do a loft conversion before I finally dug out the bits again. Most people had thought I had got rid if the stuff or had just lied about me ever owning any of it. So Marco might be on the same type of trip:).
Out of interest, things that I packed away:
2 x Micro Seiki MA-505 MKI
2 x Technics EPA-501H
1 x Micro Seiki DDX-1000
1 x Ariston RD-40
1 x Sony PS6750
1 x Mitsubishi DA-10
Plus a few dust arms. Since then eBay has enlightened me to the curet day value of all that stuff:). Glad I didn't flog them then.
Mike,
Yep, it's half done. I've just got the 'interesting' bits to add ;)
I've got too many things on right now to finish it, but don't worry it'll be posted before your next birthday :lol:
I'm also trying to get the Yaqin sorted.
Has your deck 'emerged' yet from its slumber?
Marco.
PS. Sensi, did you read my reply about the EPA-501H?
Got a box?
Got a tranny with 18-0-18 upward and a couple of caps, 4700mfd will do, and a bridge?
If so then you can buy http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...e=STRK:MESE:IT
It is then upgradable to four :smoking: seperate power supplies, as is your want.
Sensi,
Nice one. Keep me in the loop :smoking:
Mike,
Looks like Richard has sorted out the phono stage side of things. For the cartridge do you fancy a coil or an MM jobby, and what type of sound do you like?
I can then recommend some suitable cartridges within your budget :)
Marco.
Interesting!
But could I ask a couple of questions please?
1. Ignoring PSU's for the moment, Is there any difference in circuitry between that board in the link above and the Phono1 and Phono2? (I'd already been looking and they figure in my short list).
2. Would it be possible purchase the board and four PSU's together, and at what price?
3. If I purchased four PSU's I assume it would be preferable to use four separate transformers, bridges etc. Yes?
Cheers,
Mike.
Well, it depends on which phono stage I settle on, but considering present budget constraints I expect to be looking in the MM playground for now.
Sound wise - clean, detailed (but not too 'in yer face'), tight bass - my speakers can be a bit 'full' sounding thanks to twin quarter wave pipes, so nothing to exacerbate that tendency.
Cheers,
Mike.
Don't dissapoint me I thought you knew what was what and could use a soldering iron.
This is the basic board, I thought you wanted cheap. Same as built in the integrateds and in the P90 pre. Phono2 more complicated.
In the pic and in the offer there is only one regulator board, but each of the gain stages can be powered seperately so if you wish to power them seperately you would need four regulator boards. PSU are £190 each, your money is gone!
Any techie has got a couple of trannies lying around and a few caps I though you were one, I was trying to help but if you want it built then you pay for it built.
Doh!.... I'm a clown and should pay more attention to what I'm typing!
Please re-read questions 2 & 3 and where it says 'PSU' please insert 'Reg'.
:doh:
I kind of knew what the answer to Q1 would be, but I thought I'd check anyway. One never knows, maybe you could be persuaded to sell a Phono2 board! ;) (he said, expecting the answer 'No'!)
Come on it is a simple regulator board, a couple of resistors and comping caps one side of the chip a couple the other, when you get one you can copy another three on some veroboard or similar. I want to see you do some techie.
Phono2 - Same board layout different quality on some comps. When you get it look at it and work it out yourself. Stick to the values replace the quality. The laws of diminishing returns apply. You could go whole hog with Shinko res and top dog caps, you could change the op-amps but I have found no better, they are just selected for the phono 2.
There... Done!
Let's see what can be done with this wee beastie then!
:ner:
That is just what most manufacturers do, what is original :confused::doh:
Anyway for that you have another challenge, seeing as you haven't decided on which cartridge yet it will come sans input res and comp and sans gain res, so you can have the pleasure of working it out when you decide which cartridge you are going to use. BUT I am alway here for you young sprog mi lad, as long as there is a little deference to your Jedi master, we can get there together.
And there will be lots of celebration and :gig:
Okeydokey.... :youtheman:
When I get started I'll start a new thread and documant 'The Build' with photo's 'n stuff.
I think I'll have to source some nice boxes for it all to live in though rather than the scabby bits of tat I've got lying about. It'll have to be a two box affair too, it'd just be rude not to!
Night night.
LOL. Master and pupil at work - doncha just love it! :lol:
Mikey,
Rewinding back past the electonics for beginners class, fascinating as it is... What bloody sound do you like so I can recommend a bloody cartridge. I won't bloody ask you again! :lolsign:
Marco.
Hahahaha... I didn't bloody scroll down far enough on page 6 and missed your last bloody post! I'm bloody blind :lolsign:
Remind me again of the maximum budget you have available for the cartridge, now that Richard appears to have saved you some money by going down the D.I.Y route for the phono stage. Suitable recommendations will then follow :)Quote:
Well, it depends on which phono stage I settle on, but considering present budget constraints I expect to be looking in the MM playground for now.
Sound wise - clean, detailed (but not too 'in yer face'), tight bass - my speakers can be a bit 'full' sounding thanks to twin quarter wave pipes, so nothing to exacerbate that tendency.
Marco.
Let's say, hmmmm...... £150(ish). Oh, and it has to work well in a Hadcock GH228 (earlyish one with aluminium armtube).
:scratch:
P.S. Why do people bid like this? :
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Denon-DL-160-H...QQcmdZViewItem
You can buy a brand new one for less than £80!
A lot of people have no idea of the value of what they are bidding on and assume it must be a bargain if it's on ebay. I've also seen cases where identical items from the same seller have been available as either auction or "buy it now" on seperate listings and the auction item has gone for a higher price!:scratch:
Yes Kevin!... I guess there's still lots of mileage in the old saying 'There's one born every minute'!
Strange but true.
:mental:
Hmmm...... I've found a Goldring 2500 for a pretty attractive price. I liked the 1024 I used a couple of years ago, I wonder how they compare?
Decision, desisions...
:scratch:
Mike,
Could you go to one of these:
http://www.audiocubes2.com/category/...b93456ce01d1d7
They are extraordinarily good for the money, and as good as anything up to £1000! It's the usual 'the best stuff goes to the non-UK market' scenario. The AT-33PTG is a veritable giant-killer, and it has the balance of sonic virtues you're looking for. It is also far better than an OC-9!
Another option is the Denon DL-110, which is a high-output model you can use straight into a MM stage. It has a higher compliance than the DL-103, which I would normally recommend, but which wouldn't really suit the relatively low-mass of the Hadcock.
Otherwise, any of the Clearaudio MMs in your price range would be good, or the new Ortofon or Goldring MMs, or perhaps some of the Grados - most of these are within your budget.
Marco.
Hmmm...
Interesting choice, and a bit of a new one to me.
Too late though, I've already ordered a Goldring 2500 (I got bored waiting :ner:).
Yes I'm going out on a limb here but I think it's more or less impossible to audition one first in the deck/arm combination I'm going to be using for the foreseeable future.
LOL. Nice one - I hope it works out :smoking:
And that would be the SL-120, I presume?
Marco.
Now it's just silly, check this out:
http://www.hifix.co.uk/sku_list.lass...d=&major_id=29
Price includes VAT & delivery
Some people eh? :mental:
I sub the pcb boards assembly to an outwork company. I will moan at them for you. I obviously check the ones I use, but this is your project so get on with it, moany git.
PS the new avatar is to denote our new found relationship, so watch out for that plug - meep! meep! meep! :lol::lol::lol:
Not moaning grumpy git!
Anyone who buys 'bare bones' stuff to fit themselves won't be bothered by something that simple, and that includes me! :lolsign:
Just 'bantering' in good humour! :ner:
Anyway.... I'll start a new thread to continue this sometime soon and delete some of this 'Mike & Richards bantering room' stuff to allow the thread to at least look like it's on topic.Unless anyone would like it to remain 'as is'?
'Later' folk's, I've got some serious cooking to do, a nice Kashmiri Rogan Josh doesn't cook itself you know! ;)
ta ta for now. :wave:
Anyway back on topic
I have just taken delivery of an ex DJ 1210.
It will be a little fun project in my quiet times (if I ever get any). I will mod and rebuild it using principles and things learned in the design of the NVA senior T/T (never to be made again) dating from 1990. But sorry they will be my secret :ner:
C'mon Richard, get those hands in the air and kick up a fierce one!
:gig:
Excellent, this is very exciting indeed, as it appears that no one else in the UK has really put their hand up and had a bash at one these sleeping giants. I know this is Kevin's (KAB) fear, but I guess it had to happen sometime.
I'm sure a few of us on here will be very interested in your findings. :)
Yes, Richard, do let us know how you get on :)
Are you retaining the stock arm?
You *might* even manage to report on your findings before I get round to writing my review! :lol:
Nicky boy,
I took delivery today of one of Thruno's '3-piece suite' brass counterweight balances. It's excellent, but you're lucky you have that extra weight on top of your nude 103 Pro because if I use all three brass weights I can only get 2.1g VTF with my Denon, and that's with all three counteweights pushed as far forward towards the pivot point as possible...
I'll dick around a bit at the weekend and add a touch more mass at the headshell to enable me to use all three counterweights, and thus allow me to position them ideally (as close to the pivot point) as possible, and obtain the correct VTF. I usually find 2.6g ideal.
I just thought I would report on this :)
Marco.
Its my fun so :ner:
Anyway I wont be competing so much with things he does, my forte is power supply design. Though I will obviously play with other things. What I want to work on is that the power system is almost digital, it is a series of on and offs, and the more on and off the better as they use in lathe drive. I have ideas to simulate a greater number of poles in how the motor is driven. Also the motor needs very much lower impedance feed. There is still backlash in the motor.
I have just finished my last bit of fun / project of taking the cheapest CD player you can find on ebay, originally sold by Richer Sound - the Eclipse CD101 - you can get them on ebay for about a tenner - and rebuilding it with killer powers supplies and some component changes and it makes a CD player to kill for. It just happens to have one of the best sounding transports ever made and is extremely long lived and reliable. Anyway now it no longer has a mains lead but has a seperate PSU box or two seperate box PSU's depending on how far you take the mods. I have surepticiously bought 10 of them on ebay over the last 6 months, so keeping a couple for myself there will be 8 going up on ebay at some stage.
C'mon all you amateur techies. Buy some of the cheapest **** you can find on ebay and have fun. It is the techie version of Jerry :lolsign:
Marco, yes lovely pieces aren't they. It was a bit of guesswork really, but luckily it works out fine for me. I'm not butted right up against the pivot, but pretty close.
I havent spun any vinyl for 7 weeks now, the chap building my pre has had family illness problems and is running a month late. I'm beginning to climb the walls. My Quad actives are much better now they run from dvd player rather than ipod, the same chap is going to mod these too in the near future, so I should have an excellent system by the summer.
If you want a quick peek inside my PS-1200 PSU just let me know ;)Quote:
Anyway I wont be competing so much with things he does, my forte is power supply design. Though I will obviously play with other things. What I want to work on is that the power system is almost digital, it is a series of on and offs, and the more on and off the better as they use in lathe drive. I have ideas to simulate a greater number of poles in how the motor is driven. Also the motor needs very much lower impedance feed. There is still backlash in the motor.
But no direct copies, mind! :eyebrows:
The thing about the SL-1210 is its amazingly accurate speed stability and virtually non-existent W&F, which has a remarkable knock-on effect in various areas of its sonic performance. Most T/Ts these days (even very expensive ones) are just toys in comparison.
Marco.
Nick,
You get away with it because of the extra mass on top of your 103 Pro.Quote:
Marco, yes lovely pieces aren't they. It was a bit of guesswork really, but luckily it works out fine for me. I'm not butted right up against the pivot, but pretty close.
Yeah no doubt, mate. I'm sorry to hear about the delay. Hopefully you'll also be able to take a trip up to sunny Wrexham :)Quote:
I havent spun any vinyl for 7 weeks now, the chap building my pre has had family illness problems and is running a month late. I'm beginning to climb the walls. My Quad actives are much better now they run from dvd player rather than ipod, the same chap is going to mod these too in the near future, so I should have an excellent system by the summer.
Marco.
Not in the slightest bit interested in what is in your PSU. Amateur prat arounds are good fun but don't compete with the *master* :ner:
You will just have to accept you will have second best and live with it :smoking:
Your description is common knowledge and is really gobble de gook "amazingly accurate speed stability and virtually non-existent W&F" how are you measuring it, since whan has any test equipment told you anything sensible. Torque my man Torque, that is king in car engine design same in turntable motor design. Forget your bloody stupid BHP. In a T/T it is stopping and starting torque, so does that mean when you press the button, nah!!! it is happening everytime a pole passes the coil. The trouble with a direct drive is that it is *never* rotating at the right speed. It averages the right speed, but you don't necessarily notice it as it happens in a split second. BUT it effects how you percieve music. Guy was muttering about it in the version that Technics did for the cutting lathe. Needs much bigger motor with many more poles. I am playing at simulating that.
LOL. We'll compare T/Ts then when yours is finished ;)Quote:
Not in the slightest bit interested in what is in your PSU. Amateur prat arounds are good fun but don't compete with the *master* :ner:
You will just have to accept you will have second best and live with it :smoking:
I agree with you about torque. Measurements? Look at the 1210 spec in the manual!
My (very good) ears and my experience with a multitude of T/Ts, though, tell me all I need to know about the deck's performance.
And I won't ask you again, old chap, are you keeping the stock arm or is dementia addling the grey matter? :ner:
Marco.
So the stock arm is staying? - Excellent. Gosh you're hard work!
Actually, if you dispose of the rank-rotten stock internal wiring and phono cables and replace them with Cardas sliver linz and good quality phono interconnects, fit a decent counterweight balance and headshell, and add some silicon fluid damping, the Technics arm is very, very good :)
Build your own, by all means, and I'm sure it will be excellent, but don't automatically assume it will be better than the modified stock arm I've described above :smoking:
Also, fitting a decent mat is a must. The standard rubber thing is shit and does next to hee-haw (a rather quaint Scottish expression) to damp the ringing platter.
Marco.
Mmm... I use to have a brand new Hadcock GH242 Integra. I sold it. Do you wonder why? ;)Quote:
Why on earth would he want to?
It's cack and you know it! :ner:
Marco.
The amazing thing about you is you *actually* think you are telling me something. Everyone knows now you are full of hot air and promises promises promises, your worse than an air hostess :lol::lol:
If my customers had to wait as long for products as you have strung out the panting hoards with your teasing bullsh1t about this, I would still be building last years orders.
<Snigger>
Well, Richy-boy, like I said, we'll compare T/Ts when yours is finished. I'm fascinated to see/hear what you come up with.
In the meantime I'm just making sure I keep you right ;)
Marco.