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Tidy piece of work Alan, I take it it's a naim clone.
Have you had the chance to listen to it yet?
Regards
Greg
I have some of these boards......somewhere:scratch:
I was going to pair them with a B4 that I built, but had a problem with it and so got shelved. Dodgy ebay parts me thinks.
Nice build.
Greg
Yes Ive been running this amp for about 9 months now and its excellent a great all rounder really
As you say its actualy a Naim Nap / Avondale NCC 200 plus a few Acoustica tweeks hybrid but it also has a seperate front end power supply which makes all the difference :).
Mine runs on 53v rails for the output and 56V for the Front end so there is approx 100W into 8 ohms.
Puffin I am also using this amp with a B4 and they are a great combination so try and make time to build your Hackernap power amp.
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/h...37alant/B4.jpg
Alan
apart from my RCM which i just finished, this is all I still have and use, a Heathkit aj-1214 am-fm tuner I built in about 1978/79
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Hi, posting some pictures of LM3875 Gain-clone amp build.
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IMG_4343 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4321 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4319 by hydrovac, on Flickr
A few years ago I made some LM3875 monoblocks point to point with a regulated PS (see Decibel Dungeon) for details. Nice amps and better than the LM3886's IMO. Nice build.
Few pictures of TDA7293 MOSFET based 2.1 integrated amp project.
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Completed Amp. Waiting for finishing.
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IMG_4383 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4374 by hydrovac, on Flickr
I was looking around for quite some time trying to find a simple buffer to drive my high gain power amplifier. Too much gain is a curse that afflicts many systems. It's always seemed nuts to me to throw away most of the signal as it comes in then amplify it again, which is what a normal preamp does most of the time.
The B1 starts with the premise that there is enough gain already and that the only tasks of a preamp are switching, impedance matching and attenuation (not amplification), with attention paid to maintaining the musical integrity of the signal (including nuance & timing) that can get lost on the way through.
This is my first put together Pass B1 buffer preamp. Cabinet is an all-metal case with 8mm anodized alloy faceplate(final).
Few pics of the build.
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img4255gw by hydrovac, on Flickr
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img4274dg by hydrovac, on Flickr
pics of my finished B1 Preamp, all wired up and ready for an audition. The source is a Rega Jupiter CDP.
Overall, I am super pleased with this preamp as you can probably tell. I would advise anyone to give it a try. Very simple to build, it doesn't need to be expensive, and you may hear a lot of what your current preamp is not telling you.
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IMG_4272 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4275 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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Hi all DIYers,
Building a 300 watt Hi-fi power amp, which we designed and prototyped few years ago.
Please follow the links for details.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid...amplifier.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid...ml#post1330047
PCBs have been fabricated and gathering all components on hand.
Few pictures of the same.
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IMG_4459 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4458 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4461 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4462 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4570 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4575 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4465 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4464 by hydrovac, on Flickr
Assembling of PCB s almost done, trying to place them in the chassis.
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IMG_4617 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4616 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4618 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4311 by hydrovac, on Flickr
Mounted them, power supply wiring done and commissioned.
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IMG_4367 by hydrovac, on Flickr
Neat work, how do they sound?
Holes for output devices drilled on heat sinks using a TO3 jig. Input and speaker binding posts holes done and connectors mounted.
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IMG_4448 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4556 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4481 by hydrovac, on Flickr
This is the den for our hobby & passion, and where all our classics come to life.
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IMG_4399 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4398 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4314 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4313 by hydrovac, on Flickr
Power transistors mounting process and progress.
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IMG_4442 by hydrovac, on Flickr
Thanks realysm42,Quote:
Originally Posted by realysm42
The prototype sounded really pure with low noise floor. Even audiophile grade prompting me to build one with soft start and speaker protection against DC.
The specs are as below:
POWER OUTPUT: 200W rms/8 ohm
310W rms/4 ohm
800W rms/8 ohm (Bridge mode)
FREQUENCE RESPONSE: 20HZ-20KHZ +/-0.5dB
INPUT SENSITIVITY: 1V for 200W/300W
HUM AND NOISE: -105dB
THD: <0.1%
DAMPING FACTOR: 65
Hooking up output devices to PCB s.
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IMG_4419 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4551 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4562 by hydrovac, on Flickr
Hi friends,
Sorry for the long gap in my post as I was preoccupied with other commitments. In continuation to my earlier posts, here is progress in amp build.
Checking the DC rail voltages: Left channel, Right channel, both channels
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IMG_4645 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4646 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4648 by hydrovac, on Flickr
Checking full rail voltages: Left channel, Right channel, - Ve and +Ve rails
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IMG_4652 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4653 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4655 by hydrovac, on Flickr
I am supposed to get around +62 and -62 volts DC on rails. The increase in reading is because of the mains input voltage (250 volts AC). Toroidal transformer winding is rated for 230 volts primary.
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IMG_4683 by hydrovac, on Flickr
Setting the quiescent bias current for output stage:
Fabricated a 10 ohm 5 watt wire wound resistor suitable for the fuse holder.
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IMG_4671 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4674 by hydrovac, on Flickr
Inserted in +Ve side holder and switched on the power. Adjusted the trim pot to get, 1.0 volt across the resistor.
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IMG_4659 by hydrovac, on Flickr
You can see the thermal sensing bias transistors mounted mid way between the power transistors on the heat sink. Good going so far.
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IMG_4679 by hydrovac, on Flickr
Now, looking at output side. Measuring the speaker output terminals for DC.
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IMG_4669 by hydrovac, on Flickr
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IMG_4667 by hydrovac, on Flickr
Left channel looks clean without any DC. But right channel is showing 0.04 volts. There seems to be a hitch somewhere. I will get back with updates after trouble shooting.
Thanks for looking and following the post.
Nice job ;) have you had a listen yet?.
40mv dc offset isnt that bad both of mine are 20-30mv could be a slightly leaky cap try C7. I would have used 0.1% precission matched all the resistors in the ist stage as well.
Not sure I understand the method of setting the Bias current ? normally its a mv reading accross the emitter resistors or disconnect the +ve lead to the board and measure the total current draw (unloaded output) in ma
Alan
Quote:
Originally Posted by 337alant
Hi Alan,
Thanks for that. I replaced the C7 cap with a new one and now its reading 1.5 mv on right ch and 2.8 Milli volts left ch, in 200mv range of multimeter. Shouldn't this be zero volts? Can I connect the speaker in a condition like this?
The author suggested to setup the Bias as shown in the link.
http://users.otenet.gr/~athsam/300w.htm
I will have to remount the transistors and give it a listening test.
Your Dc offset is excellent and will not damage your speakers dont worry ;)
Mine ar 30ma in both channels as I use a Mil spec wet tants in the feed back position and they are a bit leaky as well but it still will do no damage if mine goes over 50ma I will change the caps but many say as high as 100ma is still OK.
Alan
ITS ALIVE !!!
http://www.fun-machine.com/wp-conten...0/ItsAlive.jpg
Finally got around to fitting new CCD's & the B4 lives :wowzer:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7413/1...7b2b16dc_b.jpg
As you can see I paid special attention to the wiring :lol: :upyours:
What is it?
A preamp... Sort of !Quote:
Originally Posted by realysm42
Technically its a buffer with a potentiometer on the input. Supposed to be the best of both worlds, with the transparency of a passive pre-amp and the drive of a good active pre-amp... I cant comment either way yet as I've only just got the thing working - If you see this Rob [Puffin] the fault was the CCD's, they were working but letting far too much current through [as much as 30X too much in one case!]
Yes, the curse of shitbay! Glad you got it sorted. Let us know what it sounds like in due course.
Indeed ! Will do :thumbsup: ... 3 albums in, so far so good :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Puffin
Nice B4 glad you got it working
I use one myself and they are neutral and transparent after a couple of weeks left switched on 24/7 :eyebrows: but get t in a box first so its safe.
Alan
Cheers :)Quote:
Originally Posted by 337alant
It wasnt all plain sailing though ! I Originally got the board from Rob fully populated but not working & with significant track damage around the volume pot... Managed to get it working with new CCD's & thought I fixed the tracks but they were just too far gone & channels would randomly cut in & out :( So I robbed all the components off the PCB & fitted them to a new B4 board.
Extended listening showed it to be dynamically squashed & it just seemed to steal the fun out of music. I discovered this was down to the standard BOM quoting naff values... I followed it & had R5=10k/C5=1uF which as confirmed by PD gives a 10ms time constant, 3dB rolloff at 16Hz [audible loss of deep bass.] I've now jumpered the input & output caps and fitted 5K trimmers @ R3/R103 adjusting the offset to 0vdc. It now sounds absolutely fantastic... If your power amp has input coupling caps you really should remove them from the B4 ! ... If keeping the 1uF input caps you can change R5/R105 to 30k which will fix the bass issues.
I've got all the bits to build it into an acrylic case but as always just cant seem to get 'round to it !
You Da Man! Well done.
Yes the CCds are probably the most common cause of failure to the board, I also changed my R5 for 25k / C5 1uf NOS Russian polysyrene, still have an output cap (wet Tant) in there and I will get round to experimenting with removing it eventually, but anyway glad you got there in the end
The modushop.biz cases are very nice
Alan
Hello, check out my first diy project! My vision was to create 2.1 sound system with amplifire, which will not only fill the room with good sound, but also to be a work of art. What do you think?:)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Gby6F9yBds
Nice job Tilen.
Thank you walpurgis!
nice work,although all i keep thinking of when i watch the video is the roof of a ford granada! :eek:
Or that " special " outfit you have :DQuote:
Originally Posted by jamie123
Latest DIY Project was an upgraded power supply for the paradise phono stage, Using Simons transformer boards which takes a common mode choke as well, in the minicap6 board is a Hammong 158T choke and a power resister bolted to the base plate under the board, The smoothing caps are BHC 220uf 50V, smoothing is configured in CRCLC sequence.
Certainly a worthwhile improvement over the original :eyebrows:.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/583/32...52c50e91_b.jpgIMG_2946 by Alan Towell, on Flickr
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/346/32...262836fd_b.jpgIMG_2949 by Alan Towell, on Flickr
Alan
Only just spotted this. Excellent build and video :)Quote:
Originally Posted by TMaudio
Are they Visaton woofers?
fatmarley, im so sorry for late reply didnt see the post :/ Yes they are W170 S :)
Blimey not much traffic on this thread. Here's a pair of output buffer boards minus output devices.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3956/3...8e5f7532_b.jpg
Lovely job, that reminds me though, must get round to fitting my air-cored inductors to my boards....
My latest build is the Salas DCG3 headphone/preamp. Built on a plank of wood for testing purposes but now housed in a lovely Modushop chassis and sounding very nice. One of the best things I have built actually. Well pleased.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps4wzrytyj.jpg
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Looks excellent Marra :eyebrows:
Are those Avel Lindberg or nuvotem potted transformers :eyebrows:
Alan
Thank you Alan. I am very much enjoying this pre.
The transformers are Novetem's.
Good to hear that you are enjoying the improvements that Simon's boards bring to the Paradise.
I've been building a little chipamp.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4407/3...9d838ce7_b.jpg
Actually they're not that little. That's about 250mm deep, 180mm high and 240mm wide.
Weighs a shit tonne as well. 110w a side into 4 ohms.
A few photos of my phono stage that I assembled over a year ago now, sounds good too.
https://i.ibb.co/XzWYKr8/Muffsy04.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/Bg6qmPf/Muffsy05.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/b5pmWsP/Muffsy02.jpg
Very neat, is that a kit?
Yes, complete from muffsy.com.Quote:
Originally Posted by walpurgis
Quite easy to solder together, all instructions on the website; although they don't send you any info the web page is great.
Attachment 28027
Speaker build in progress.
Hello!
I have took the time and made this sound panel for my system (see the photos) (click to enlarge):
Attachment 28086Attachment 28087
Speaking of any issue or improvement in the hi-fi realm, there is a golden suggestion - trust your ears.
However, sometimes the improvement can be very small, theoretical, and will not be heard due to low quality of surrounding system.
This is why I am asking for your opinion on the matter of this panel. As you see, it is between the speakers where I have the cabinet for the TV, which can be lifted up. Before I had a flat (plastic) surface there, but decided to fight the reflections.
But to come to think of it, all the surfaces on the panel are still flat, and shoot straight back to the listening position.
I think it will deal better with reflections coming from the sides, but as the main-bounce is between speakers and the crossing wall (behind listeners back) I feel that perhaps I did not think it through, and should have went for a pyramid shaped surfaces (rather than a square shaped) on the wall between speakers.
Do you believe that this panel will tackle the straight reflections at all?
Or will it simply distort the reflection, not really improving the situation?
I would have a look at the many internet sites that deal with speaker positioning and the direction of travel of sound. I am not sure that where you have the panel would provide any refraction. Sound bounces off the walls, floor, ceiling.
I thought it bounced off from everything.... much like the light
Some Lenco in totally new clothes. We made custom made the body from the aluminium cast, upgraded bearing, slightly modyfied turntable control. For sure the plinth is a brand new custom made as well...:)
With body construction and design, we worked together with those guys...: https://tommy-sons.com/en/