Ok, thanks Geoff. I've found one (stuck in the front cover) so I'll need to find another one.
Printable View
Ok, thanks Geoff. I've found one (stuck in the front cover) so I'll need to find another one.
Try putting a WTD in "Private Exhibitions".
You'd be amazed what people have laying about (especially me).
Done ;)
The dome covers are best refitted using thin double sided adhesive tape, as was done by the manufacturer. Very carefully scrape off any old residue first.
Oops :o Your quite right, the U.S made ones are point to point & by the look of it are stapled to the cabinet... I'm sure you'll have fun removing them :DQuote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
Really? Not mounted on a sub-board? :doh:
Sorry I didn't type that very well... It looks like the sub-board is stapled to the cabinet.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...ps91d63e7a.jpg
They look like decent sized air cored inductors. The terminals, caps & wiring may be worth updating. The ceramic 'L' pads may be worth leaving in circuit, as the balance of the speaker will alter if you take them out and you might have to tinker with the crossover to get things how you like them.
The calibration was done and then the pot-knobs placed after, so before removing them, please check the resistances either side of the pots should you wish to use hard wired fixed values - may not matter by now but thought I should mention it.
401's and 402's need POWER and I remember preferring them mounted sideways, but it's obviously up to the user :) These things could rock on jazz and percussive music in general and once cleaned up, it'll be interesting to read how they compare with modern stuff...
Thanks Dave, I was reading that last night. I shall measure and note the resistance of each arm of the pot and will replace with fixed resistors.
No problem with POWER - I have a Chord SPM-1200E, remember? ;)