Oops, forgot the tonearm cable when I wrote that. Getting ahead of myself, but the DV cable seems to be doing the job nicely. It'll be very interesting trying out yours.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
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Oops, forgot the tonearm cable when I wrote that. Getting ahead of myself, but the DV cable seems to be doing the job nicely. It'll be very interesting trying out yours.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
Yup - hopefully the new and improved one (with posh plugs) will be here by then :)
Marco.
Agreed but I also think the number interconnects and various other cables needed to get the sonics from your MC to your speakers also has a massive impact. I have two layers less than you guys in that I dont have speaker cables as such but balanced interconnects and I dont have a SUT which adds another layer of interconnects. What do you think?Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
I think the connections are far less important than the cable used. Most important of all is impedance and energy matching; the reason adding a SUT into the circuit can sound so good is that it better matches the energy output of the cartridge, greatly surpassing the added complexity.Quote:
Originally Posted by REXTON
HMMM, perhaps, but I agree with you with regards impedance. The tonearm cable and SR7 are extremely low impedence. BUT, my balanced interconnects and power leads arn't so this could be the next area of examination, I'll have to get my multimeter out and make some measurements. Just out of interest have you any idea what impedance values you've got floating around your system?? Show me yours and I'll show you mine (oooo missus) :flasher:Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
You do have speaker cables, but they are kind of short :) You also have 3 sets of them in each speaker, one set from each power amplifier to it's respective drive unit.Quote:
Originally Posted by REXTON
The balanced interconnects between your pre amp & the speakers may as well be regarded as a standard (but balanced) interconnect between a pre amp & power amp.
You have no passive speaker crossover, it's active electronics that splits it before it hits the power amps. One advantage if done right, which I guess it should be being ATC :eyebrows:
I go along with Martin, the low voltage but relatively high current output of an MC doesn't lend itself to being at it's best when fed straight into a transistor, fet or indeed valve phono pre amp. The conversion of that highish current & low voltage to a higher voltage & lower current by a SUT can bring huge benefits in matching & consequent increase in signal to noise ratio (lower noise floor).
Mark,
As ever I bow to your superior knowledge, didn't think too much about the amps and speaker drivers in my ATC's :doh: (Sorry martin!) Looks like I may be getting a SUT at some point but need to get the internal regs sorted and see what's sonically different with the latest slew of upgrades.
PS I've not forgot about the measurements for the 15XR's can you send me a PM detailing EXACTLY what you want me to measure.
Will do & cheers :)Quote:
Originally Posted by REXTON
The latest internal regs have arrived from Paul. I've taken a few piccies of them. I made a start installing the huge ingot of copper which came through the post. As you can see I have cut some silver to size, just need some bloody teflon :steam:. You may also notice I've made a couple of PCB mods in that the pitch control has gone altogether and is now simply replaced with a jumper and the wiring to the on/off pcb has been optimised down to the bare minimum. I'll be doing the PCB mods over the next few days whilst I wait for the teflon to arrive. Hope you like the piccies.
Hi Andrew,
I also have the new modules. Paul sent my set together with the set for James whose SL I have just upgraded for his cutting lathe.
I do have a couple of suggestions however based on my experience fitting James’s SL, which you may wish to consider.
Firstly I found it easier to solder the wires to the 21V supply (the lump of copper) directly to the PCB tracks. Drill 1mm holes into the PCB at the appropriate locations and directly soldered the wires onto the track. (Scrape the green masking coating away at the location of the holes)
I personally feel that this gives a much better connection than relying on the three sets of screw terminals, especially with silver wire which is very stiff and not easy to manipulate. This is especially valid with the centre terminal block, which has to receive three wires twisted together and placed into the terminal from the top. This approach allows the wires to be lower down avoiding any interference with platters. Drilling of these holes is pretty easy as the tracks are wide at the points required. The holes for the 27V input are the only ones where some care is required.
The soldering of the wires can easily be done before securing the module onto the two conical posts in the hollow of the SL.
If you are removing all the now redundant components at the bottom left of the PCB as suggested by Paul, you can now use the two ‘AC’ posts as connectors for the 21V supply to the motor drive chip. The lower post being the 0V Earth. (Bridge across to the securing screw location.)
Run a connector wire underneath the PCB to the point on the track where C110 and R107 are connected ( +21V ). This avoids having to drill a hole in a vulnerable spot on the PCB.
Also consider drilling two holes at the top of the PCB where it says “Technics”
Be sure to drill the holes between the two copper tracks. This will allow you to thread the two wires from the 9V module through these holes and solder directly to the required points. This again avoids drilling holes in the PCB close to components.
The 5V supply is no problem as the wires can use the existing holes for D301. as shown in image TAP31.