Okay guys, before you get your soldering irons out, leo's post (number 106) inspired me to remove the op-amp board and directly insert the 47uF caps into the PIN3A socket in the board underneath.
http://www.hifiwatcher.com/wp-conten...ified-7520.jpg
From back to front of PIN3A (actually called "PIN3B" on the lower board) the connections are:
o Cap A +ve
o Cap A -ve
o no connection
o Cap B -ve
o Cap B +ve
I happened to find I had some spare 16V Blackgate 47uF (FK Series) - while I've previously had a rough time breaking in BGs in valve amps in the past, these are starting to improve quite rapidly (15 mins now).
The great thing about doing it this way is that I can swap in/out caps to find my favourite - probably a better final result than sticking with the first or second iteration that's been soldered in. Also better for the resale value when upgrading to any lovely future recipe exiting Stan's front door :)
Just using headphones, but the sound is already more "direct" and far better bass. Also starting to get some more texture to the sound. The volume setting on my amp had to be adjusted from 73/100 to 90/100.
Might consider making a standalone headphone board. Anyone know the name of the PIN3A and PIN4A connectors?
Andrew