Marco's cleaning process with new vinyl, using an RCM

O right, ok but never us Meths on records it's a solvent & will destroy your records long term.

+1 on not using meths.The additives that denature them can destroy plastics and such. surgical spirit is a no no too. pure isopropyl watered down is ok.

Guys calm down I don't use meths.it was a slip of the tongue. :)
I was mearly indicating what was in the cleaner.

Was cleaning again today. Meant to say I use an old cd to protect the label.
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Originally Posted by jamie123

here's what i do,its a deep clean mind and you can only do a couple of lp's before you loose the will to live!
i use A.I.V.S 3 step cleaners.
1st is the enzymatic solution,i let that sit for 20 mins,then vac off and rinse twice.
2nd is their isopropanol based cleaner,i brush clockwise and anti-clockwise for 3 mins then vac off and rinse twice.
then i use the disc doctor's miracle cleaning solution repeating the brushing as above.vac off.
lastly 2 rinses.
if that lot doesn't give you good results your records fu*ked! lol

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I did not want to comment on this, because as you know I make and sell a record cleaning fluid and I don't want to be accused of "Shiling" However, there seem to be so many misconceptions about what should go into a good RCM fluid and how it should be used that I want to clarify a few points.

1) If you are having to brush for 2 or three minutes, the wetness of the fluid is wrong and no matter how long you brush, you won't reach the bottom of the groove. The wetting agent has to be of a seeking type that causes capillary action to draw the fluid into the groove and soak the detritus trapped there.

2) Soak time, it takes a maximum of 10 second for the capillary action to cause the fluid to get as far down the groove as it will get, after that, about 10 seconds soak time will loosen the crud as much as possible WITH EACH APPLICATION, it may be that it more than one go, but leaving the fluid longer makes no difference, once it's done all it can, it's done all it can, it becomes saturated and you need to use some more.

3) Enzyme cleaners are detrimental to your records if not rinsed off and to your RCM, especially the point nozzle type, rinsed or not. I've lost count of the number of machines I've had to strip down and clean out because the growth many people have seen in the bottle with fluids such as L'Art du Son, occurs in the pipework of you RCM and when it dries out it leaves a black powdery residue that jams the machine. The best degreasant is Isopropanol anyway. It also kills mould and bacteria if mixed with water, so why would you need anything else?

4) Ilfatol as a wetting agent. As a photographer, I used Ilfatol for years, but it's not anti static, that's why Ilford sell anti stat film wipes. Part of the formula has to be an anti stat, Oh and by the way don't use Kodak Photo-Flo if you can still get it as it contains products which are anti stat, but are also de-vinylising.

Cheers

Here's a question for Okki Nokki users - how do you remove the pads from the suction arm? I could do with a fresh set but rather than going in like a bull at a gate I would prefer a measured approach ;)

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Originally Posted by Tarzan

l would just like to add l feel a valid point- leave the solution for 5 minutes then vacum off, gives the cleaning solution more time to do it's thang.:eek:

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Cleaning process re dux; I am now experimenting with a de- ionised water rinse at the end of the above process.( Although l am not the first.) Do not want that Isopropl Alcohol getting near the Cadenza Black.:cool:

I'm pretty sure the IPA will have vaporized before you had the chance to speak a dirty word of choice! ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cuddles

Here's a question for Okki Nokki users - how do you remove the pads from the suction arm? I could do with a fresh set but rather than going in like a bull at a gate I would prefer a measured approach ;)

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Just rip'em off, they are made from some form of fabric and can take quite a beating. I actually usually reuse them once, just change their postion (or rotate each one 180 degrees)
You just use a few mm's of the edge, the rest is new!
(And the glue usually works just fine once more)

If you are replacing them, clean the suction tube thoroughly with a gentle glue remover and then a degreaser. Otherwise the new pads wont stick properly...
Atb Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PaulStewart

I did not want to comment on this, because as you know I make and sell a record cleaning fluid and I don't want to be accused of "Shiling" However, there seem to be so many misconceptions about what should go into a good RCM fluid and how it should be used that I want to clarify a few points.

1) If you are having to brush for 2 or three minutes, the wetness of the fluid is wrong and no matter how long you brush, you won't reach the bottom of the groove. The wetting agent has to be of a seeking type that causes capillary action to draw the fluid into the groove and soak the detritus trapped there.

2) Soak time, it takes a maximum of 10 second for the capillary action to cause the fluid to get as far down the groove as it will get, after that, about 10 seconds soak time will loosen the crud as much as possible WITH EACH APPLICATION, it may be that it more than one go, but leaving the fluid longer makes no difference, once it's done all it can, it's done all it can, it becomes saturated and you need to use some more.

3) Enzyme cleaners are detrimental to your records if not rinsed off and to your RCM, especially the point nozzle type, rinsed or not. I've lost count of the number of machines I've had to strip down and clean out because the growth many people have seen in the bottle with fluids such as L'Art du Son, occurs in the pipework of you RCM and when it dries out it leaves a black powdery residue that jams the machine. The best degreasant is Isopropanol anyway. It also kills mould and bacteria if mixed with water, so why would you need anything else?

4) Ilfatol as a wetting agent. As a photographer, I used Ilfatol for years, but it's not anti static, that's why Ilford sell anti stat film wipes. Part of the formula has to be an anti stat, Oh and by the way don't use Kodak Photo-Flo if you can still get it as it contains products which are anti stat, but are also de-vinylising.

Cheers

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re point 1, i do that out of choice and not because of a weakness in the fluid,if your fluid is the dogs bo**ocks how about a small free sample so i can compare? if its good i gladly buy some.in your defence though i have just re-read the aivs instructions and it does appear that iam going well over the top with the times left on the records so fair play to you.
regards.
j.