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Doh [to me]!Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyB
I've been getting carried away with coupling transformers using my Passive Caimanised 7520 with an interstage valve amp I designed and built a little while ago (no caps in signal path). More on that later (will post on the DIY board here).
http://www.hifiwatcher.com/wp-conten...0/08/View2.jpg
Andrew
Silly question alert: Got my Caps from Tirna today - the legs are not the same length, so presume I just trim them the same length? (yet to open the Caiman, best unload the car and help with the unpacking first!)
[EDIT] All sorted, and even better, sound is coming out of both channels so I haven't cocked it up! It was dead easy, a 5 minute job. If anyone wants a pair of the Tirna-supplied Rubycon Bi-polar 47uF caps FOC then PM me, and I'll pop them in the post tomorrow. Leaving it with Sky HD running them in for 4 or 5 hours or so before I have a proper first listen.
Are they polarised or non-polar. If the former the longest leg is positive, you can cut to desired length. If the latter the same applies, but you do not have to observe polarity.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex_UK
OK, I am going in!!...........Wear bicycle clips. brown slippers are a bit smelly!
Thanks Puffin - see edited post! :)
Rubycon caps now spoken for. :)
Quick first impressions: The soundstage has opened a little, (wider) and the midrange seems emphasised compared to the standard Caiman. Bass is lighter, I feel - but it does appear that the sound is clearer. I wan't my bass back, though! No noticeable problem with female vocals as some have expressed. I think this mod will make the Caiman more critical of bad recordings, based on a couple of tracks that sound a bit ropey as standard, bloody awful now!Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex_UK
Some more burning in to do before drawing any conclusions* (never believed in it making a big difference before, until I bought the Caiman...) One thing's for sure, though - if it takes a fair few hours to achieve optimum sound then I doubt I will be trying many more (any more) caps, as life is too short not to be just listening to the music!
(*Cautiously optimistic, though, based on the sounds of the piano and glockenspiel in addition to her vocals on Charlotte Gainsbourg's 5:55)
The caps take a while to settle in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex_UK
My son decided tonight that he'd watch the Wallace & Gromit movies (A Grand Day Out/The Wrong Trousers/A Close Shave), and I was gobsmacked at the amount of low end grunt coming off the brass band with the W&G theme tune - that and the clarity of the dialogue/sound effects.
I've got some Silmics in there ATM, and I like them a lot.
Nichicon Muse bi-polars were the last in, and I liked those too.
It'll come back, don't worry :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex_UK
Alex,if you can find out the input impedance of your amp,you may be able to try a film cap in there for a reasonable price,which should be better than any electrolytic.
Thanks Martin - it has! Oooh my, needed double-figure hours, but the bass is back and the wholesound seems to be getting better. Biggest difference so far is definitely the wider soundstage and the word Chris (Stratmangler) used - "Clarity" is very appropriate. Noticed some splashy cymbals on a couple of tracks, which is the only negative I've heard so far, though hopefully that will improve. Not much time to listen today I suspect, but looking forward to trying some well known CDs later tonight. :)
Thanks Ali - I'll do a bit more digging for specs then, as not in the manual.
According to this review by Hifi Critic - "The line input impedance, measuring 9.5kohm, loads sources more than average" - being a techno (as well as vinyl!) numpty, that doesn't mean very much to me - does that mean I could try some film caps, and any suggestions where to start if I can?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali Tait
What it means is you'll need to fit a larger value capacitor than a pre amp with say 50K or 100K input impedance to get the same -3Db point in the bass.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex_UK
As an example you'll need an 8uf capacitor to get a -3Db point at approximately 5Hz with a 9500 ohm input impedance. Normally you'd want to make the -3Db point somewhere near 1Hz so you get the least amount of phase shift in the audio spectrum & also the least distortion.
If you wanted to go to 1Hz -3Db you'll need a 40uf capacitor which is close to what you are using now. A 40uf film cap will be rather big to say the least, you might get away with 10uf though ;)
Thanks for that Mark, makes sense.
Caps arrived today Alex - many thanks.
Initial impressions are that they're a little bit brighter than the Elna Silmics that I've had in for a while now.
I'll leave 'em running in for a few days and see how they settle down.
Sorry for interruption.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stratmangler
What caps seems to be little brighter than Elna Silmics?
Thanks
rubycon bp 47uF
Glad they got there safe Chris. (Albeit Mr Postie should have got them there yesterday as they went 1st class early Tuesday.) Look forward to hearing what you think compared to the others you've tried in due course. I'm very happy with them compared to the Opamp board, but they are the only ones I've tried. I must say this mod is doing the business though - piano especially just sounds so amazingly real. Best £1.08 I've ever spent! Still going to try Stan's new board if it comes out, though, as would be nice to have headphones for the odd time I listen that way.
Well, I've just done the passive mod, and whilst I appreciate AOS isn't the 'wam...
F****** HELL!!
What a difference, at least in my system. Soundstage has become so wide and deep I almost thought I'd got something out of phase, but that's not possible. So initial (and I mean initial - less than 2 hours) impressions are increased separation, more 'air' and ambience (thanks to cleaner HF?), leaner bass (but not less - just not as rounded, if that makes sense) and much more detail overall.
A/B ing between the CDs analogue outs and the Caiman is a bit tricky as the levels are different, but there is a very different presentation now, whereas there wasn't before.
Think I'll try the board when it's released!!
Jason
If you think it's good now,try it with some good film caps.
We don't hide in a tent, but are a lot more open minded ;).Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason P
Hi Stan,
Any chance of doing a limited run of "passive" Caiman's as I am thinking of one for my tele system. Stripped down lean and hungry version without a PS and with the Murata's would do!
Regards
Chris
Hi Chris, I have a couple of caps from Tirna. I can possibly afford to let you have two pieces and fit them for you. PM or email me.
Ali, do you think Stan or Leo should experiment a bit with these to see if they are better in the discrete board (if they are suitable)?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali Tait
Stan's the man to answer that,but I've found a good film cap sounds better with the passive mod than anything else I've tried.Mind you,I am using SCR teflons,which cost more than the dac!
Saying that though,you could try Clarity Caps,quite cheap and very good,will give most of the sound of the SCR for a fraction of the price IMO.
Ali - I have yet to try my Clarity Caps as I'm so enjoying the sound with the Rubycon electrolytics. I'll swap them in soon.
Eeeek!:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali Tait
Best 'litic caps I've tried (by far actually) are the Nicheon KZ ones..
Tried Slimic II's, Rubicons, Nicheon FG.
Still the Green Nicheon ES type to try...a few guys swear by these so should be interesting.
THEN, I'll try a suitable (i.e. sensibly priced!) film cap.
Ali, remember the improvement we heard with your linear PSU on your 7510?
Good jump with my Caiman usng the Maplin CBR Linear psu...wasn;t sure if it would be as I had the Mutara regs fitted?
and Im sure the PSU internals couild be improved upon as well..
Can someone shed some light about this board which is about to be released, please?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason P
Any links?
Regards
Give them a go,you won't be disappointed Martin.Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
Good stuff mate,I'll have to come across sometime soon.I'll bring the MLTL's and the AN dac.I've also just done the shunt mod on the volume pot in the Pre 2.This has made a real improvement,about the same step up as the passive mod,so well worthwhile.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazjam
Here you go: http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7623Quote:
Originally Posted by RoboCopper
I thought I'd give another quick update - if you haven't tried this mod - DO IT! I don't think it an exaggeration to say this is the biggest improvement I've made to my (digital side of the) system in the last 18 months. Bear in mind that includes changing amps, adding the Caiman in the first place, Mark Grant Speaker cables and G1000HD from Caiman to amp.
I've been listening to some well-known CDs today - whenever I read the cliché "rediscovering my record collection" I always wince a little (sorry to those who've used it!) and I'm not quite going to go that far, but as Jason P has posted above and I mentioned earlier, the improvements to the soundstage are amazing! (Jason - £20 says your bass will be much much fuller after 20-50 hours running in...) Clarity and separation are greatly improved as well. The slightly harsh treble on some cymbals has gone, and all in all, I'm a happy bunny. The other cliché I'm not fond of is "night and day" - so I can't use that one, but it is definitely a quite astonishing improvement.
So, then - film caps could be even better? Any suggestions on reasonably priced oness - my amp has an input impedence of 9.5 k ohms so Mark (Reid Malenfant) said above "If you wanted to go to 1Hz -3Db you'll need a 40uf capacitor which is close to what you are using now. A 40uf film cap will be rather big to say the least, you might get away with 10uf though" so something around that that won't break the bank and will fit in the Caiman would be great, please. :)
+1
Its a great improvement doing this mod.
Alex, try using a linear PSU with your Dac...even more improvement.
I use the Maplin CB Radio one Stan recommended...big jump over the standard one...and even my old Maplin variable switching one set to 15v.
Try it, think you'll be surprised.
Also try different Capacitors with your Passive mod - they all sound different.
Nicheon KZ 50v best for me by a country mile.
The film caps are my next move I think.
Gaz.
Sorry Alex,I didn't get back to you on this,I've been looking for something at 10uF that will fit,and I've been struggling TBH.Anyone any ideas?
Stick a "Ripple Eater" between the PS and Dac and then see what you think :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazjam
http://www.gt6.co.uk/JLHPSRR/John%20...20Edition.html
No worries Ali. I found these - but not sure how big the 10uF would be, or if they would be worth trying: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Sonicap-Film-C...3#ht_650wt_911Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali Tait
Is the PSU the XM20W Gaz (Stan's original link not working any more) - and does it work ok with just the Passive Output mod?
Aye that's the problem Alex,no bother finding 10uF film caps,it's finding one that will fit inside the dac.
Better than the standard Caiman PSU? The upgraded one Stan sent out with the Caiman?Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazjam
Jason
Yes.
Oh god, I feel a slippery slope coming on!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali Tait
J
Let me guess: it's a caiman hide leather wallet:lolsign:.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason P
:lolsign:
There was some green jacket Nichicon BP caps that came with the Legato stage for the BII dac, I didn't really rate them tbh in that dac and found cheap 10uf Wima MKT's to be a lot better. I've now tried the Nichicons in the Caiman passive out and Stans new discrete stage and didn't get on with them there either :doh: The high's sound quite dirty to my ears, maybe need more running in :scratch: I've ordered some 10uf 100v MKP2000 to try in the BII dac after another members recommendation so will try them with the Caiman too
Yup, its that one Alex.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex_UK
Costs around £25
no probs with the passive output mod, thats how I run mine.
I designed a DC power supply noise and ripply filter, which both Leo and me have been trying out. It's a fraction of the price as well ;). Something for the future I guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by Puffin
I'd say you'd get a fair bit of interest in that Stan.Could be a good seller.
Cheers mate!Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazjam