Mod your Beresford 7520

The right one.

STan

Well, the replacement THS4032 has been running for a good few hours now and there's no sign of the previous "crackling" problem. I think if the problem still existed it would have shown itself by now.

I say it again - This is a superb opamp - It works really well with the K701's and the sound is just to my liking, plenty detail, punchy and a huge soundstage.

The moral is: If you want to try the THS4032, get one or two spares just in case of problems with stability.

BTW guys - What headphones are using with your opamp experiments?

Cheers - Ken

Alessandro's MS1 modified to MS1000

too much heat when soldering SMD op-amps can cause some internal damage.
It does not take a lot for those tiny legs to heat up

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by leo

too much heat when soldering SMD op-amps can cause some internal damage.
It does not take a lot for those tiny legs to heat up

---

Thats true Leo - It's likely to have been when I was soldering the decoupling cap - I did get a blob on one of the legs which needed cleaning off...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sponge

Well, the replacement THS4032 has been running for a good few hours now and there's no sign of the previous "crackling" problem. I think if the problem still existed it would have shown itself by now.

I say it again - This is a superb opamp - It works really well with the K701's and the sound is just to my liking, plenty detail, punchy and a huge soundstage.

The moral is: If you want to try the THS4032, get one or two spares just in case of problems with stability.

BTW guys - What headphones are using with your opamp experiments?

Cheers - Ken

---

So, with a bit of luck, it may not be necessary to add the cap which makes the whole exercise more appealing!

OK, I am warming up :lolsign:

What is difference between 7510 and 7520 models?

For op-amp rolling check link bellow. I agree 110% with this.
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/lit...olling-304261/

Sign-up at www.linear.com and ask for some free samples :eyebrows:
LT1364 is good choice, way better than LM4562.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Covenant

So, with a bit of luck, it may not be necessary to add the cap which makes the whole exercise more appealing!

---

I think it's a "suck it and see" thing. It's no problem to try it without the caps and fit them if needed - Just be warned that too much heat can cause trouble. As I said, the problem I had was probably due to spending too much time cleaning up a solder blob when I was fitting a cap.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Covenant

So, with a bit of luck, it may not be necessary to add the cap which makes the whole exercise more appealing!

---

Definitely - Stan what are your feelings on the additional cap?

I take it without the cap the overheating risk is higher?

This is fascinating....
So we have a new kid on the block, the LT1364.

One of the mods or Stan should tell us if its suitable-some details:
GBP 70MHz
Slew-Rate 1000V/μs
Supply Voltage ±2.5 → ±15V
Package SOIC8
CMRR 76dB
Function Unity-gain stable, voltage-feedback
Operating Temperature Range -40 → +85°C
Settling time ns to % 50 → 0.1
V Offset mV 1.5

Avilable from RS for about £5 each.