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Yeah, hope it's something that can be easily sorted, Nick.
For what it's worth though, I'm virtually useless and I managed to fit the bearing without any problem. I would class the job as easier than installing and correctly setting up a cartridge. Anyone who can satisfactorily fit a cartridge should be able to manage the bearing swap.
hmmm... removed the MN bearing and replaced the stock one.
everything back to normal - so thank gawd no damage...
any thoughts anyone? obviously something with the new bearing...but what?
all seemed to go in fine... i don't get it.
Nick , what exactly is happening with the MN bearing in place ? You've listened to it I presume .Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbaba
Hi nick,
Sorry to hear of your trouble,i'm not sure what is going on but the other month i had my platter off to disable the target light and when i replaced the platter i had speed stability issues,this is with the stock bearing.
So i took off the platter again,re-checked everything and replaced the platter.The second time it was fine!!
So maybe,if you haven't already,you can try the MNB and this time try the platter on and off a few times?
I wouldn't think about fitting a cartridge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nigel
Lie. I would think about it, then realise I could only do that in a parallel universe
Phew.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbaba
Likely something 'obvious' I would also miss
hi chris - if i can describe more accurately what i was hearing, it was that doppler effect where the pitch rises and falls continuously, in this case roughly 1 full cycle per second. Sounds like when the batteries start going on a cassette player, if you know what i mean.
when i removed the MNB and replaced the stock one, the sound was again normal.
before spinning a record i double-checked that the pitch-fader clip was securely replaced, the platter was levelled (tested with a platter spirit-level that sits over the spindle) and the cart and arm were properly set-up.
It must be something with the positioning of the bearing, perhaps it was slightly off-centre, but i can't see how as it was all screwed firmly into place.
There is one thing i was scratching my head about... the 3 long black screws fix to the bearing where it slides through the PCB...but on the MNB there are 3 more holes machined... what are they for? I didn't receive any extra screws or bolts in my pack from Mike...have others used these 3 extra holes to secure the bearing? (so its held by 6 screws instead of 3 like the stock bearing?)
Am i missing extra screws, and could that be making a difference?
Nick I think those extra holes are for the optional base plate , is it worth refitting the bearing , making sure everything is level ! And running it for 24 hours or maybe 36 ? Then listen again ?
Hi Nick and anyone else looking to do this. 1. It isnt hard at all. 2. Your guess as highlighted is probably quite likely. Mike will tell you that if it doesn't seem right to start with ie: when you turn the platter on all isn't smooth, then just loosen the screws that hold / secure the bearing in place and re-seat it. Also another tell tale sign is that you should not have to fight to tighten the three long black screws. They fit very precisely and tighten smoothly when you have the bearing sat / housed correctly, the opposite occurs when you havn't. I had a few goes till I was happy. I really wasn't fazed by undoing the screws and re-seating till I was happy and knew all was well, you really dont need to be (Look how many of us have these fitted here on the forum, not to mention world wide :) )Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbaba
Does the platter spin freely if the TT is powered off?Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbaba
(I had a similar problem, it's not really bearing related, if the Technics platter is badly cast, the inner ring touches the bearing housing)
And don't worry, you have to be pretty agressive and clumsy to damage the motor coils...
Thanks gang - much appreciated all the help and suggestions on here.
Yes, the platter spun fine with power off. Seemed level and no obvious problems.
Thanks for the tip, Robbie. Probably right as I can't think of anything else it can be.
I will try again to re-fit and fiddle with the MNB next time I have a free couple of hours to dedicate to it.
Will report progress when it happens!
No probs Nick and whilst you do that make sure things ie wires are laid nice and flat, tucked away tidily etc to avoid any catching / rubbing as the platter spins ;)
Very strange... Are you sure your deck is 100% in good condition?Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbaba
No PSU problems or worn out caps?
The load presented by the MN bearing IS slightly higher than the stock bearing, so existing problems might show up after install.
(Not a bearing problem, but an electronics problem)
It's the things we don't know we don't knowQuote:
Originally Posted by OneyedK
I'm having fun changing the chain on my bike - a simple task, I was told by at least 2 people - who know what they are doing
-running into all sorts of issues no one mentioned
like the length of the chains vary, even good chain splitters murder your fingers and barely *work*, it's very mucky, you just want someone else to do it....
Hi Nick,
Firstly remove the platter and check to see if you have any foreign matter stuck to the inside of the Magnet. Then check that the three plugs are correctly installed. Also check to confirm that you have removed all the wires that may have been protruding from the printed circuit board.
You are the only person to my knowledge that has had any problems fitting the bearing.
Hi Nick,
Karl is correct you may have a platter which has a slightly smaller boss diameter where the bearing housing fits into. Try spinnng the platter and listen for any noise. However from what you describe I think that perhaps you have a plug that was not correctly installed. Having romoved the PCB and swapped the bearing you have unknowingly corrected the original problem.
Don't think its PSU problems - I'm using a Paul Hynes SR-5 which should have no problem with the slightly heavier load. Deck is in good nick, only couple of years old, no gigging just home use, should be fine.
Thanks Mike - I will re-fit the new bearing when I have some time to spare and see if the problem is indeed resolved.
tbh I'm not even surprised I'm the only person to ever have problems fitting the bearing... as previously mentioned, whenever I attempt DIY or technical work, strange things happen....usually bad! :doh:
When you refit the MN bearing, check for anything at all rubbing. Spin the platter with the power completely off and listen for chafing noises. I had a wire rubbing against the underside of the platter doing that.
Nick,Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbaba
I think your problem is that you are too scared to grab the poblem by the curlies and consider yourself so cock-handed that your worries become self fullfilling. Just treat the project as a challenging new experience
and get into it. It really is very simple and if you have problems then it will be because you have not wanted to follow through and investigate it.
Well hey,I'm doing my best over here, ya know what I mean?
Actually feeling pretty proud of myself for taking the job on in the first place, so... it ain't all bad. ;)
Nick , don't let anyone knock you down m8 , it doesn't seem to me you've done anything wrong ? Perhaps just unlucky , you say with the standard bearing everything is fine ?Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbaba
Oh and please can I request that in future we limit the advice to technical suggestions?
If I wanted therapy I wouldn't look for it on a HiFi forum, believe me.
Had the same problem, slight wow on 33 and massive wow on 45. Then I realised that the Soundhifi/Dave Cawley modifications (called "motor dynamics mod") were simply torque reduction! After removing the bits everything returned to normal and I had my Techy back! If your 12xx has said modification REMOVE IT. Hope you get your problems sorted and can enjoy the improvements with the MN bearing.
Yes Michael, I had that same mod and had to remove it when I bought Mike New's heavy platter. The warble on 45 was very noticeable.
Hi Martin. Would there be a chance of any pics showing how to disable this mod?Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
John
Nick , did you manage to fix the problem you had with the pitch control ?
Could be related to this , just a thought ?
Man - still waiting for mine to arrive in the US - any day soon!
Hi Chris - thanks for the thought & well remembered btw!
As it happens I didn't fix that problem yet, so there might be a connection. Not been using the pitch fader much recently so it had slipped my mind. If it happens again when I re-fit the MNB, and I can't get it to settle down by tinkering with the bearing placement/platter etc, I will look into the pitch control.
Cheers.
Technically it wasn't even torque reduction, but PLL loop gain reduction.Quote:
Originally Posted by krugdoktor
It was bad practice, and even audible with stock bearing and platter.
I asked DC on his forum how it was supposed to work in the first place,
but I received the usual answer.
Hence my prior question "is your deck 100% ok".
With this kind of mods, it's not.
Hi Karl,
In a conversation with DC some time ago he said that the mod was to allow the "sound" of the SL to resemble that of the LP12. Although, why anyone would want to do that is strange. Excepting that maybe the modified Phase Lock Loop characteristics resembled the affects of a rubber band driven TT. on the heavier passages of music.
With the CR values that were chosen, the Mod should be removed on any SL using a heavier platter than the OEM version. As Martin and others quickly discovered.
However I would not think that it would cause any problems when using my Bearing.
Maybe Nick does have a pitch control problem which is excerbated by fitting my bearing.
Nick, check to see if the pins on the plug from the slider are clean and do not have any oil or dirt on them. This should not be the case but it is worth checking, clean the pins with Acetone.
I have tried running my test SL without the slider plug connected. The speed was slightly higher and less constant.
WonderfulQuote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
I think I can count on the fingers of one finger how many times I have heard the reason for some problem like that.
Deeply satisfying
Mike - could I just be clear here - ''I have tried running my test SL without the slider plug connected''. This is without the plug OR a shorting block between required pins I take it as in the pitch fader removal mod?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_New
Hi Stephen,
All I did was to remove the plug (4 wires) to simulate an open circuit caused by dirty contacts. This obviously is not what anyone would want to try in practice. There was some semblance of control but far to fast.
Hi JohnQuote:
Originally Posted by prestonchipfryer
I don't have a photo of when it was installed, but you can see a cap/resistor in parallel soldered across an existing component (sticking in the air) on the PCB at bottom-right as you face the deck. I don't have a layout to hand (I'm at work) but shout if you want the location and I should have the diagram at home.
Hi folks,
I don't think Nick's problem is related to his pitch fader problem.
Of course, the contacts need to be clean (I use isopropyl alcohol to clean contacts, sometimes called isopropanol, available in any pharmacy, cost next to nothing).
But when the pitch fader is at zero and the led lights, the entire pitch fader cirtcuit is bypassed.
There's no need for a "pitch fader removal mod".
Unless you want to remove the fader from your deck, in that case it becomes an aestetic mod.
Woo Hoo,bearing has just arrived :mex:
Time to install and see what we have.
Everything is installed and is up and running fine.
Very early first impressions DAAAAYYYYYUUUUUUUMMMMMMM!!!!!!!!!
See you later,i've got records to listen to :D
Cheers.Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
Look here at an old photo of the bottom-right hand corner of my main PCB. You can see a red capacitor and a resistor soldered across an existing component. That is Dave Cawley's Motor Dynamics Mod, which reduces torque. Cut those two components out and you will revert the board to standard operation.Quote:
Originally Posted by prestonchipfryer
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8204/8...dd26f1eaf9.jpg
Thanks. Mine is untouched by DC. I wasn't sure if mine had been modded.Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
I would just like to thank Mike New,for his amazing bearing!! Everything that has been writen about it is spot on.It has now enabled me to really hear what my cart/arm,pre amp and speakers are really capable of (and of course the technics) :D
It truly is stunning the difference it has made.
Keep up the good work mate :cool:
Any joy yet nick?Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbaba
Thanks kininigin,
Another happy bearing man.
Hi Darren - thanks for asking. No chance to get back to it yet this week... other priorities for the moment I'm afraid ...looking forward to finding some time over the weekend. Will post here how it all goes... cheers.
Happy to see you are chuffed with your purchase, btw!
Happy yes,but sad at the same time,pre-amp is sold,turntable packed away till i get back and then i need to save for a new pre.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_New
So will be a long time till i can listen to this fantastic bearing,will be worth the wait though ;)
Hi Folks,
With a new customer having just purchased two Bearings, I now have only 5 bearings available. Since it is the summer Holiday period in OZ I will not be in a position to organise another batch untill about mid Feb. if demand justifies the investment.
Hi Folks I need some help to trace someone.
Before christmas I got an em from a John Bitwinski in the US, North Logan Uta. <xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
asking for some Bearings and an ETP Platter.
However I have been trying for some days now to reply and every time my email gets rejected as being an invalid address or mailbox unavailable.
Does anyone know John??
Shouldn't that be @hotmail.com ?
Thanks Martin,
I copied the address across from my inbox and the 'm' got left off.