Newbie Tri Path build

[John]

I been reading the Mini T thread and Steve has recommended this as a potential build for a novice. Reading between the lines it has a lot more resolution than the Mini T this for me was its major draw back I loved it speed almost valve like sound, but also need to be able to rock hard.
Here is what I am thinking of getting
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-100w-TK2050-TP2050-Tripath-Class-T-AMP-Board-Upgraded-/350432051271?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519760c047&afsrc=1
Looking at the web page I would have to get a case volume control and transformer am I right?
I never soldered before this is a big worry. With the case would I have to drill holes for the board etc ( I be ok with that side of things just trying to get a sense of how much work is required). The other thing that worries me is when it comes to sound in my system I can be really fussy so will want to make this the best I can.
Please be paitent with me apart from making a DIY speaker and all I really did was put the units in and wired it up I never really done DIY work so will ask lots of silly questions.
I open to other designs if you feel it will achieve my goals more

[Ali Tait]

John, it may be simpler to get the power supplies from them also. It would make the build a lot easier. Modushop makes some nice chassis.

I heard Steve's amp when I picked up the OB's. Sounded very good on a quick listen.

[John]

what would help is a complete kit But if know what parts to get I should be ok I perfer to buy from same supplier but this might not be possible

[Ali Tait]

Steve's yer man as he's built one. Just had look at their shop on ebay and they sell supplies. Steve should be able to advise.

[Ali Tait]

A case like this would look good I think-

http://www.modushop.biz/ecommerce/cat079_l2.php?n=1

[John]

Nice looking case

[Reid Malenfant]

A recommendation, don't go for the 10mm (or is it 12mm?) thick front panels unless you are capable of machining 17mm diameter holes ;) Not sure what Ali linked to but i bought a case from Modushop & bought the 10mm (12mm?) thick alloy front panel before i thought about an on/off switch :doh:

Only one i could find that'd be okay with that thickness came from Hong Kong & needs a 17mm hole to accomodate it :rolleyes: Get a thinner front panel & you'll have far fewer problems ;)

Just a suggestion, hope it helps :)

[Techno Commander]

I dont think you would need a case anywhere near that hefty.

One of these would probably suffice quite well as there is little heat from a class D amp.

Choose the large deep version (http://www.modu.it/galaxy.html) These will easily handle 2 x 400W Hypex modules.

[Covenant]

I bought one of these to try and wasn't impressed. I gave it away. The mini-T, IMHO, is much better.

[Reid Malenfant]

I dont think you would need a case anywhere near that hefty.

Choose the large deep version (http://www.modu.it/galaxy.html) These will easily handle 2 x 400W Hypex modules.
Agreed, you don't need a case with any heatsinks, it just needs ventilation by air flow..

[Ali Tait]

I dont think you would need a case anywhere near that hefty.

One of these would probably suffice quite well as there is little heat from a class D amp.

Choose the large deep version (http://www.modu.it/galaxy.html) These will easily handle 2 x 400W Hypex modules.

I was thinking about getting the power supplies in with plenty space for cooling them if John decides to go with the ones they supply, but you're right, the modules themselves give off very little heat. I thought it looked nice too!

The cases for my direct coupled amps will be from modushop.

[John]

I bought one of these to try and wasn't impressed. I gave it away. The mini-T, IMHO, is much better.
Then perhaps not for me the Mini T loved its speed but need something that has bit more grip in the bass and dynamics so perhaps this is not the right path for me Thanks Jerry

[Techno Commander]

You would still have enough room to get a good power supply into the case I highlighted.

[Techno Commander]

Just to add an alternative to the mix. These modules (http://hifimediy.com/?page_id=18&category=1) are getting some good press on Diy Audio (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/164274-new-tk2050-board.html) (huge thread).

[The Vinyl Adventure]

Is this aqua steves amp that I now have?
Borrow it if you like john ... I'm using the mini-t with the ushers in that hifi at the moment ...

[John]

How would you compare against the Mini T Hamish I really liked what the Mini T did just not enough resolution and grip but everything bloody good

[Welder]

I really hope this goes well for you John, whichever kit you try.
You say you’re new to soldering. There are a few things that will make your life a lot easier.
A soldering iron with a silicon lead.
A de-soldering pump.
Heat sink tweezers.

[Techno Commander]

John, if you want to practice soldering, I can pop a piece of strip board and a handful of components into the post for you. Thatway, you can play to your hearts content without fear of damaging something important.

I will also include some desolder braid. I much prefer to use this as opposed to a pump, which never totally removes old solder.

[Ali Tait]

Hypex modules seem to be well thought of from what I've read. 41Hz too.

[Techno Commander]

Hypex are good, but expensive. The 41Hz kits are very good, but not the easiest to build. IIRC you need to wind your own inductors!!

Getting a prebuilt module makes sense for a beginner. You will still need to solder up the internal wiring.

[John]

John, if you want to practice soldering, I can pop a piece of strip board and a handful of components into the post for you. Thatway, you can play to your hearts content without fear of damaging something important.

I will also include some desolder braid. I much prefer to use this as opposed to a pump, which never totally removes old solder.

Thanks for the kind offer Lets see I have to feel confident the amp will deliver sonically I might take you up latter
So i would also have to factor in cost of good solder iron etc
I really like the idea of learning about this but as I said I am pretty fussy when it comes to sound

[Welder]

I think one the 30Watt Antex soldering irons come with a silicon lead for about £25.

[Techno Commander]

Antex 25W iron (http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Fasteners-Production-Equipment/Soldering-Equipment/Soldering-Irons/Antex-XS25W-soldering-irons/30322). Excellent piece of kit and fully rebuildable. And a decent stand (http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Fasteners-Production-Equipment/Soldering-Equipment/Iron-Stands/ST4-soldering-iron-stand/30200).

[Welder]

I can’t stress the silicon lead bit enough.
A ridged lead can make soldering a total pain in the arse because you end up fighting the stiffness of the lead :steam:

[Techno Commander]

Totally agree.

[John]

Thanks for the pointers Still have to decide to go ahead For me its all about getting great sounds

[Welder]

Well everyone else has thrown build suggestions at you so here’s mine.
One of these
http://www.autocostruire.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=42&products_id=258&osCsid=5560f1b05c49c765e6c0c2719f592836
with this
http://www.autocostruire.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=42&products_id=264&osCsid=5560f1b05c49c765e6c0c2719f592836
and this
http://www.autocostruire.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=42&products_id=265
there boxes aren’t shabby either and a bit cheaper than earlier links.

[The Vinyl Adventure]

I'll get back to you mate ... Not done a direct comparison of yet ...
The active converted dyns are a completely different beast to the ushers and actually don't work so well in the office without stands ... My stands are under my main speakers in the lounge ...
I'll have a tinker and wire the ushers to 2 of the channels of the steve amp tomo and have a compare and get back to you :)

[John]

Chers for the link John the first one looks quite good and nice to have other parts eaisly at hand