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View Full Version : how to change the cable on a thorens td160?



jimmieg
15-01-2011, 21:08
I am having a surpising amount of trouble finding a simple "how-to" on this, even on the thorens-specific sites.
I just ordered an Aqvox phono stage and want to use the balanced-in feature. I will be running it with my Ayre AX7e integrated amp, so yes I will be truly fully balanced.
I have ordered the Aqvox rca/xlr adapters to provide a temporary solution, but will want to change the cable pretty soon.
When I search this I get lots of posts about cutting and soldering. This is not what I want to do. What I want to do is unplug the current cable from the din connector, and plug in a new xlr terminated cable. That's it. I am not very technical and I have not taken the bottom cover off the table yet. Just looking for some basic "how-to" pointers and trying to become aware of anyhting I should know before I do anything. For example, I do not know if I should buy a cabe that goes "straight in" to the din connector, or if I should look for with a 90 degree connector.
If anyone has done this I would really, really appreciate a reply. Thanks and regards, Jim

Dingdong
16-01-2011, 10:19
It is possible to buy tonearm cables pre-terminated with xlr's if that is what you want. Just Google 'tonearm cable xlr' and there are lots of options, if you don't fancy cutting the rca's off your current cable and fitting xlr's.
The question of whether you want a 90 degree connector or not depends on how much space you have. What connector do you have now? I'd be tempted to stick with the same type.
Which cartridge are you using?

Moko
16-01-2011, 11:25
It will depend on what arm is on your TD 160, if its the original Thorens TP 16 (which ever version) there is no DIN connection. The tonearm wires are clipped to a mounting board or in some cases soldered to the board.

If the arm has been replaced with something like an SME, Linn or Rega then you should be in luck by following the advice above.

But the first thing to do is take off the bottom and have a look you will be surprised how simple it all is under there!

DSJR
16-01-2011, 14:04
Sorry, if you decide to use non standard terminations, then re-soldering is going to have to be done, as 99.99999999999% of tonearm wiring to amp is single ended.

The first thing is to remove the Thorens cables, which will be tired and possibly corroded by now. On the tag strip underneath the deck, the chassis is linked to one of the signal screens, which isn't a good idea, if a cheap one in manufacture. I use thinner mic cable for the interconnect to amp, as Johnnie at Audio Origami does, as it's flexible, the Van Damme Pro Patch wires are very good quality, and my suggestion would be to use these, connecting the signal and return wires from the tonearm to the two inner conductors. The drain wires disconnected under the deck but connected to pin 1 on the XLR's. As for earthing the chassis of the turntable, I'd use a separate wire from the tag strip connection to chassis and either connect it to the deck earth pin on its mains plug (as it will be separate from the signal leads now), or to the amp's earth point.

I know, I know, the above is daunting to impossible to someone who isn't "into" soldering up their own interconnects, but as I said :) using a fancy phono stage (beyond the potential of the Thorens?) is going to need some work on your part...

jimmieg
16-01-2011, 15:43
that my table has a Sumiko MMT arm, not the old Thorens arm. Pardon me for leaving that out. This is why I am hoping to be able to just get a din-to-xlr cable and be done with it.
Several years ago I did build a couple of bottlehead kits and became a fairly good solderer, but I don't have the equipment anymore and have not done it in some time. It's not out of the question but would rather not. thanks for replying, Jim

DSJR
16-01-2011, 16:11
Oh, that's ok :lol: You can get the Neglex cabes pre terminated just the way you want them. I'd still check the deck earthing though, as a separate entity. if you need or wish to solder a fresh earth lead to a chassis point, file the tag plating first, otherwise the solder won't take - been there on hundreds of occasions and shall do so again when I finally get to collect the 160 Super/SME II that's waiting for me.