Welder
16-11-2010, 13:38
I keep seeing tag boards and vero board in DIY stuff :eek:
I gave up on tag boards years ago. They are usually not that well made and not very convenient with regard to tag spacing.
This is what I use.
A length of 1.5mm solid core insulated copper wire (you can use whatever thickness suits the current application but too thin gets too fiddly)
As many MALE spade connectors (lucar crimp connectors) as required. This type is fine.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?MenuNo=100876
Uninsulated are easier but the insulation can be twisted off if the insulated type are all you can get.
You can even get copper based instead of brass if you have a search.
Lay out the components to + and – rails and preferably make a drawing particularly if the build is complex.
Cut around the insulation (two cuts) with a hobby knife on the wire the same width as the spade where you want to make the join and strip off the insulation.
Strip off the insulation on the spade if it has it.
Using a pair of slim round nosed pliers bend the spade part so that it roughly has the same inside diameter as the wire and then fit the bent section around the wire.
(A screwdriver inserted into the spade cup makes holding the crimp terminal easier.)
Squeeze the folded spade around the wire. With a bit of practice you can get a really tight fit that surrounds about 2/3 of the wire.
Carefully apply heat to the rounded portion of the spade on the wire and apply a small amount of solder.
What you should have now is a receiver pot on a bit of wire. If you haven’t gone overboard with the soldering you should be able to open and close this “receiver pot” to grip the wire or combination of wires you intend to join up.
Do the above at every point you wish to make a component connection making sure all the little pots face the same direction, or if required, the easiest direction for a particular component link.
I much prefer tufnol board to vero board; its stronger, has better insulating capability and drills easily.
http://www.qtasystems.co.uk/crossovers.htm
To fix the wire with the pots on to the board I use two or three of the spade connectors facing into the board. Drill exactly the same size holes in the board as the outside diameter of the “pot”.
Use panhead self tapping screws from underneath the board to screw into the pot inserted into the board. If shorting is likely to be a problem then countersink the hole for the screw head.
What you should now have is a rail with all the benefits of a through soldered hole and non of the disadvantages.
Yes, it’s a bit of trouble but what you get is a strong rail with connections where you want them that are easy to fit multiple leads into if necessary (squeeze to grip before soldering) and easy to solder. :)
I gave up on tag boards years ago. They are usually not that well made and not very convenient with regard to tag spacing.
This is what I use.
A length of 1.5mm solid core insulated copper wire (you can use whatever thickness suits the current application but too thin gets too fiddly)
As many MALE spade connectors (lucar crimp connectors) as required. This type is fine.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?MenuNo=100876
Uninsulated are easier but the insulation can be twisted off if the insulated type are all you can get.
You can even get copper based instead of brass if you have a search.
Lay out the components to + and – rails and preferably make a drawing particularly if the build is complex.
Cut around the insulation (two cuts) with a hobby knife on the wire the same width as the spade where you want to make the join and strip off the insulation.
Strip off the insulation on the spade if it has it.
Using a pair of slim round nosed pliers bend the spade part so that it roughly has the same inside diameter as the wire and then fit the bent section around the wire.
(A screwdriver inserted into the spade cup makes holding the crimp terminal easier.)
Squeeze the folded spade around the wire. With a bit of practice you can get a really tight fit that surrounds about 2/3 of the wire.
Carefully apply heat to the rounded portion of the spade on the wire and apply a small amount of solder.
What you should have now is a receiver pot on a bit of wire. If you haven’t gone overboard with the soldering you should be able to open and close this “receiver pot” to grip the wire or combination of wires you intend to join up.
Do the above at every point you wish to make a component connection making sure all the little pots face the same direction, or if required, the easiest direction for a particular component link.
I much prefer tufnol board to vero board; its stronger, has better insulating capability and drills easily.
http://www.qtasystems.co.uk/crossovers.htm
To fix the wire with the pots on to the board I use two or three of the spade connectors facing into the board. Drill exactly the same size holes in the board as the outside diameter of the “pot”.
Use panhead self tapping screws from underneath the board to screw into the pot inserted into the board. If shorting is likely to be a problem then countersink the hole for the screw head.
What you should now have is a rail with all the benefits of a through soldered hole and non of the disadvantages.
Yes, it’s a bit of trouble but what you get is a strong rail with connections where you want them that are easy to fit multiple leads into if necessary (squeeze to grip before soldering) and easy to solder. :)