View Full Version : My 1210 is in hospital again . . .
I've given up on the LP12 idea (for now) but that's not to say the itch won't return.
So back to plan A - tidy up the 1210
https://live.staticflickr.com/4658/40590368601_5c8ef19a13_b.jpg
. . . to be continued.
Wakefield Turntables
06-05-2026, 19:46
Ah, been a while since a techie has been on the opearting table. :thumbsup:
Yes, I'm always late to the party - but you can't rush these things!
New power supply just arrived - nothing fancy, but an improvement over the current one. Nice build quality too.
https://i.postimg.cc/W1KP6w3Z/DSCF2630.jpg
Wakefield Turntables
09-05-2026, 13:36
Looks like a decent PSU, Are you going to be externally housing it?
Looks like a decent PSU, Are you going to be externally housing it?
Yes, I'm impressed with the build quality, it came from a guy in Scotland. Undecided yet about an external housing, I have the relevant box, switches, connectors and leads from Maplin . . . I've had them since 2018!
And this A quick visual guide to externalising PSU from your Technics SL 1200 (https://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?22954-A-quick-visual-guide-to-externalising-PSU-from-your-Technics-SL-1200&p=398468#post398468) from Frankyc2003
So I'm all cocked and loaded to do it. I'm going to do some testing first, but either way it'll be an improvement, as my current transformer was starting to hum a bit, so I'll try it in and outside the deck before decided if I want the extra box. The guy who made it said he plans to do a ready made external one, which judging from his work should be good. I'll update here on that if he ever does?
I had a tatty plinth arrive today which I'm going to get sand blasted and powder coated, so I can rebuild my deck with the original plinth in the future, if I want an all original 1210 again.
It may be selling this anyway when it's completed and buying a Rega P8 - but I'm on the fence about that. Want to get this finished first, as it's been on the back burner for 8 years now :o
Pete The Cat
11-05-2026, 15:31
Crazy how the years pass with these things. I've been 'midway' on a Lenco L75 project for a similar time. Glad for you that you've decided to seize the day.
Crazy how the years pass with these things. I've been 'midway' on a Lenco L75 project for a similar time. Glad for you that you've decided to seize the day.
I know, I was shocked when I looked at the receipts inside the Maplin box for the externalised power supply mod. I'm going to finish it now though and then decide how far I want to take my record playback in the future. Might have it done in a month or two, which I think is quick compared to it being sat for 8 years!
You can't rush these things :)
Wakefield Turntables
12-05-2026, 06:51
I wouldn't add any more damping to the 1210, I think they got it perfect first time around. I remember going way overboard on mine, it's sucks the life out of the music.
I wouldn't add any more damping to the 1210, I think they got it perfect first time around. I remember going way overboard on mine, it's sucks the life out of the music.
Yes, I agree, I think it’s a pretty good design as is Andrew - I'm not planning anything radically different, with a new arm and power supply it'll be a big improvement on how it is currently. With a fresh powder coat for the cabinet and a few other new parts, I'll be content. I'm not aiming to wring every last drop out of it performance wise, just a sympathetic restoration and something I can enjoy that still looks like a 1210. A refresh as it were for the old girl, rather than a trip to a Ferrari tuner.
I'm a minor league enthusiastic amateur compared to you hot-rod boys :)
The plinth is back from the powder coaters - sand blasted then plain black all over. I didn't ask them to do it and didn't expect them to, but they powder coated the underside as well.
Before:
(I bought a cheap tatty one from eBay, so I can if needed, return the deck to stock)
https://i.postimg.cc/85nPK0Bb/1000004995.jpg
After:
https://i.postimg.cc/ZnBY1xVc/1000005121.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/D0JftPB6/1000005122.jpg
Very pleased :)
Can't fault that.
What are you going to do about the writing? Or is it going to be de-badged?
Looks much better in black than the original(?) blue finish. And loosing the labels is a plus, except perhaps near the speed control.
What arm are you going to fit on it once all the mechanical gubbins are refitted?
Well done so far - we look forward to seeing the finished turntable complete in a plinth. :)
I have a new Rega RB330 waiting in the wings from hifi_dave, I just need a new armboard. I do have one already, but Mastersounds do a good Rega armboard that’s more in keeping with the new black colour.
https://i.postimg.cc/Y23k2949/1000005124.jpg
As for the badges/writing, I plan to keep it de-badged. I did consider a plain Technics badge like the one on the SP10, but I think I’d prefer it plain. I can always add them later if I change my mind? I think with the silver coloured switches, that will be sufficient contrast rather than it just being totally black.
The switches for speed control have 33 and 45 on the switches themselves Barry, so that’s not an issue. I have disconnected the pitch fader, so the markings near the ON/OFF tower switch aren't really needed.
https://i.postimg.cc/WzQd113W/DSCF2263.jpg
So a few more new bits to order and I can start putting it all together.
Will be killer with that arm on it. I think it was Rich B here who had one (maybe still does) with an RB300 fitted and it was excellent.
Will be killer with that arm on it. I think it was Rich B here who had one (maybe still does) with an RB300 fitted and it was excellent.
Thanks and yes, I think with an RB330, Ian Mac bearing and the new power supply/transformer it will be more than enough for me - better than an Ariston Q deck anyway!
I didn't think you were doing the power supply?
The only downside of a Rega is the height adjustment.
If you could fit the Michell (?) Height adjuster, it would be a great combination.
Great thread,
love a restoration project, watching with interest Tim it’s going to be a cracking deck once done.
My brother had a 1210 but gave up with vinyl cos his kids decided to play My Little Pony on it and trashed it.
True, dat!
Consequently, I took on his vinyl collection, a lot of which ended up in the rubbish tip.
Looking cool, Tim. I think DIY is one of the more satisfying parts of the hobby.
Great thread,
love a restoration project, watching with interest Tim it’s going to be a cracking deck once done.
Agreed - just hope it doesn't take as long as Wakefield's restoration of his Garrard TTs! :D
Wakefield Turntables
20-06-2026, 09:10
To quote a famous smiley used on AOS ":popcorn:"....
To quote a famous smiley used on AOS ":popcorn:"....
Haha, hope that's a big bucket Andrew :cool:
Looking cool, Tim. I think DIY is one of the more satisfying parts of the hobby.
Thanks Justin (and Gary) - I'm not aiming for the stars here, just a makeover and upgrade for an old DJ deck. I did buy a new 1200GR2 and was going to sell this one but decided, as you rightly say, that this would be more satisfying.
Wakefield Turntables
20-06-2026, 09:48
I'd be tempted to keep the old Technics arm as a spare, it's actually quite good.
I'd be tempted to keep the old Technics arm as a spare, it's actually quite good.
I'm keeping everything now Andrew, so if I wanted to, I could turn it back to stock - I thought long and hard about buying a new arm, but I'm a bit of a Rega fanboy.
I was going to sell the Technics arm, but I think you're right, better to keep it :)
I didn't think you were doing the power supply?
Other than replacing the old one with the new drop in cloned replacement, that's all I'm doing . . . I was referring to the new power supply I posted earlier in the thread. I don't intend to 'off board it' at the moment, but could if I wanted to later. When I've finished this I might buy a really ratty one and do it all again, stripping more out and filling in all the holes in the plinth, but for now I'm on target. I'm doing it all on the dining room table as I live in a flat. If I had a workshop it would no doubt be different.
I know I'm not doing it the way you would, but I'm doing it for me and how I want it - as I've said before, I'm not an audiophile so we have different expectations :)
I know I'm not doing it the way you would, but I'm doing it for me and how I want it - as I've said before, I'm not an audiophile so we have different expectations :)
Arguably the most important way. ;)
I skim read the last few posts, as I have been preparing to have 17 kids over to celebrate my daughters birthday.
11 of them are sleeping over. :eek:
Steph Dale
21-06-2026, 11:35
Tim,
Slightly out of academic interest...:
You say you're not using the pitch slider? Does that need anything 'clever' doing to remove it from the control electronics?
Aaaand, why the change to a Rega arm? What changes or 'improvements' are you wanting or expecting?
I have had (and, if I'm honest, thought very boring) an original Technics SL-120 with SME 3009R, but I had a feeling that was largely down to the arm. Over the years I've come to the conclusion that I just don't get on with the SME 30xx arms, hence my question. The SL-110 I have here is, however, a wonderous thing, so it's not that I'm adverse to Technics or direct drive, despite being a bit of a Thorens fanboy. Phonomac's SP-10 was a wonderous experience too and of course that had a decent tone-arm in the form of his tweaked Audio Technica.
Steph
Slightly out of academic interest...:
You say you're not using the pitch slider? Does that need anything 'clever' doing to remove it from the control electronics?
Nothing complicated, you just need to put a jumper across pins 6 & 7 on the main board, where the pitch fader is connected.
Connecting pins 6 and 7 gives the same result as placing the pitch fader control in the central detente position. So the fader will be completely out of circuit as it were. The deck will still have the fader fitted, so visually it will look the same, apart from the green LED not operating.
https://i.postimg.cc/4dQsNdjb/jumper.png
https://i.postimg.cc/cHSdSYkK/pitch.png
As for the arm, well the original is serviceable but requires work. Needs a new arm tube and rewire, as it's had a slight ding sometime in it's life, it's not bent but it is scratched. The bearings aren't 100% either, as the previous DJ owner took a screwdriver to the screws on the yolk and has over-tightened them and slightly stripped the top of the screws. It doesn't track as well as it should as a result. It's okay but not perfect.
I did consider getting it overhauled, but decided on a new arm which from pricing is slightly cheaper or about the same as an overhaul and the sonic improvement over the original is by all accounts well worth it. I won't know that until I try it, but it's a good match from many reports I've read from people I trust, who have done the same thing. Mastersounds fit an RB330 to their refurbished SL-1200s and I'm using their arm board, so it's a combination that's works (in theory!).
I can't see the point of refitting the pitch control, yet not having it connected to the electronics. :scratch:
I can't see the point of refitting the pitch control, yet not having it connected to the electronics. :scratch:
Because it still looks like a 1210, without leaving a hole.
For a Rega RB330, I would seriously consider one of these- https://www.michellaudio.com/vta-adjuster-3 or https://www.analogueseduction.net/michell-engineering-upgrades-parts-accessories/michell-engineering-rega-3-point-vta-adjuster-2.html
The biggest inconvenience is the height adjustment of the arm, but if you only use 1 cartridge, the normal spacers will probably suffice.
Wakefield Turntables
21-06-2026, 14:11
Coming together nicely! I think the pitch control was one of the first mods I did to my 1210. You can also loose the strobe and cue light as well if you fancy.
Pigmy Pony
21-06-2026, 14:29
Coming together nicely! I think the pitch control was one of the first mods I did to my 1210. You can also loose the strobe and cue light as well if you fancy.
Do these mods audibly improve the performance of the deck? I'm assuming they must do, otherwise why do away with them? Having said that, my t/t (a heavily modded 1210) doesn't have these things, but then it doesn't look like a 1210 anyway.
Coming together nicely! I think the pitch control was one of the first mods I did to my 1210. You can also loose the strobe and cue light as well if you fancy.
If the pitch control is going to be inactive, then the strobe and cue light should be disabled as well. The sight of the strobe pattern drifting because the pitch control was disabled would drive me mad.
The sight of the strobe pattern drifting because the pitch control was disabled would drive me mad.
That's the whole point Barry, it doesn't drift it's quartz locked to 33 1/3 or 45, whichever you select. Shorting pins 6 & 7 ensures that, it sets the pitch to zero.
The pitch c9ntrol should not drift if the pitch slider is disabled. If it does, there is a problem.
Putting a jumper across the pins on the main board effectively sets the pitch to zero, and bypasses the slider.
For a Rega RB330, I would seriously consider one of these- https://www.michellaudio.com/vta-adjuster-3 or https://www.analogueseduction.net/michell-engineering-upgrades-parts-accessories/michell-engineering-rega-3-point-vta-adjuster-2.html
The biggest inconvenience is the height adjustment of the arm, but if you only use 1 cartridge, the normal spacers will probably suffice.
Only plan on using 1 cartridge Kevin, once it's set up at the right height . . . job done
Only plan on using 1 cartridge Kevin, once it's set up at the right height . . . job done
:thumbsup:
If the pitch control is going to be inactive, then the strobe and cue light should be disabled as well. The sight of the strobe pattern drifting because the pitch control was disabled would drive me mad.
The pop up cueing light is one of the coolest things about the deck. I always found it useful as well since I always manually cued, often in poor light.
Never used the pitch control but I don't see the point of disabling it or the strobe. Just seems like deliberately breaking bits of the deck.
I agree about the target light Martin, very useful for playing records in low light and the strobe is one on the coolest things about a 1200, I really like the strobe pattern on the platter.
Not sure I'd call unplugging the pitch fader breaking anything, I'm just unplugging it so the deck is locked to either 33 or 45 and won't go away from that. If I want it back, I just remove the platter and plug it back in again :)
If the speeds are quartz locked to either 33 1/3 rpm or to 45 rpm, why did Technics fit a pitch slider in the first place? Just asking.
So DJs could alter the pitch. When you bypass the pitch fader, you then put it into "lock" mode.
Not sure I'd call unplugging the pitch fader breaking anything, I'm just unplugging it so the deck is locked to either 33 or 45 and won't go away from that. If I want it back, I just remove the platter and plug it back in again :)
It locks in the detent anyway. Yeah I know it's not like smashing it with a hammer, you can always reverse it easy enough.
So DJs could alter the pitch. When you bypass the pitch fader, you then put it into "lock" mode.
Why would DJs want to alter the pitch? Would it to be change the BPM?
Exactamundo Martin . . . I'm not planning to do anything that prevents me from turning it back into a stock original 1988 1210 MK2 and selling it as such, should I ever need to :D
Why would DJs want to alter the pitch? Would it to be change the BPM?
I DuckDuckGo'd it for you Barry . . .
Tempo/Beat Matching for DJs
One of the main uses of variable pitch controls is for DJs. These let mixers adjust the speed of two records to run at the same BPM. This lets them create seamless mixes of songs at different tempos. For example, if you try mixing a song at 100 BPM (beats per minute) into a song at 110 BPM, you just alter the speed until the tempo is the same for both.
https://vinyliq.com/turntable-pitch-control/
Wakefield Turntables
21-06-2026, 19:13
Never used the pitch control but I don't see the point of disabling it or the strobe. Just seems like deliberately breaking bits of the deck.
It's just something I did back in the day. I honestly have no idea if removing strobe/cue light and pitch control made things better, certainly didn't make things worse. My deck's at least 16 years old and still going, so no harm done!!
It's just something I did back in the day. I honestly have no idea if removing strobe/cue light and pitch control made things better, certainly didn't make things worse. My deck's at least 16 years old and still going, so no harm done!!
I think the idea was it all adds noise but I never saw that shown anywhere.
I think the concept of stripping kit down dates back to the 1970s when the Jap decks couldn't be any good because of all the 'trinkets' and what you wanted was a British deck built for sound quality alone. Whereas the reality was the British deck was a bit of plywood or MDF with a rubber belt and a cheap motor made in a shed for five bob. It's simplicity was just a side effect of a lack of engineering skills and investment in equipment.
The Sondek was originally going to be a direct drive until Linn realised it would be too hard for them to do that.
I thought the Linn was a design they had nicked from Ariston, itself a copy of the Thorens TD150, which in turn was based on Acoustic Research's belt drive design.
It's just something I did back in the day. I honestly have no idea if removing strobe/cue light and pitch control made things better, certainly didn't make things worse.
Yup, I got the idea from all the Techie aficionados who used to frequent these parts - I may well do a Pepsi challenge to see if they make a difference, I know David Brook from MCRU swore blind they made a difference - I'm just taking the pitch out of circuit, as I don't need it and won't ever need to worry about knocking it and cocking up the speed. That's the main reason . . . if it's not connected I can't f*** anything up!
I thought the Linn was a design they had nicked from Ariston, itself a copy of the Thorens TD150, which in turn was based on Acoustic Research's belt drive design.
That sort of thing was what they ended up going with although I think the whole 'They stole the design' thing is a bit sketchy.
That sort of thing was what they ended up going with although I think the whole 'They stole the design' thing is a bit sketchy.
Hamish Roberson had no manufacturing base for his design of the Ariston RD11 turntable, so he subcontracted manufacture to Castle Precision, a company owned by Ivor Tiefenbrun's father. Ivor Tiefenbrun saw the design and thought he could improve on it. A legal battle over patents followed but Roberson died before the situation could be resolved.
Certainly the original belt drive design was made, and promoted by Edgar Villchur of Acoustic Research.
bob orbell
25-06-2026, 15:36
And the rest is history, and its good history, long live the LP12. Bob
So I'm all cocked and loaded to do it. I'm going to do some testing first, but either way it'll be an improvement, as my current transformer was starting to hum a bit, so I'll try it in and outside the deck before decided if I want the extra box. The guy who made it said he plans to do a ready made external one, which judging from his work should be good. I'll update here on that if he ever does?
Hi Tim,
From considerable experience, I'd highly recommend externalising the PSU, as it keeps a pretty strong magnetic field away from the cartridge. The results from doing so are significant.
It's one of the first things I did to my Techy:)
Marco.
I think the concept of stripping kit down dates back to the 1970s when the Jap decks couldn't be any good because of all the 'trinkets' and what you wanted was a British deck built for sound quality alone. Whereas the reality was the British deck was a bit of plywood or MDF with a rubber belt and a cheap motor made in a shed for five bob. It's simplicity was just a side effect of a lack of engineering skills and investment in equipment.
The Sondek was originally going to be a direct drive until Linn realised it would be too hard for them to do that.
Wot he said:D
However... There were a lot of shite direct-drives around, too. Some you could play the drums on, just by tapping on the plinth! So you had to know how to sort the wheat from the chaff.
Marco.
Pigmy Pony
25-07-2026, 13:49
Wot he said:D
However... There were a lot of shite direct-drives around, too. Some you could play the drums on, just by tapping on the plinth! So you had to know how to sort the wheat from the chaff.
Marco.
Price was always a good guide in this respect. You did get what you paid for. Technics, Sony and Denon all had some quality decks, but they came at a cost. I 'inherited' a cheapy cheap Sansui deck a couple of years ago, it was dreadful. Be ok for headphone listening I suppose.
I bought a cheapo Sony direct drive, the ones with the hollow plastic plinth. It was okay, provided you didn't drum on it, not really far off an SL1200 as you'd worry that much. I was going to tinker with it by adding blu tak to the inside of the plinth and whatever else came to mind, but then someone needed a deck so I gave it away.
Also had a Sanyo DD in faux rosewood plinth that came as part of a job lot. Mint, not a mark on it, or the lid, looked brand new. That was also pretty decent, good enough for anyone not taking vinyl very seriously. Gave that to the bloke who fitted my FM ariel. Probably sell for £200 on ebay now.
This was the Sanyo - TP1012
https://i.ibb.co/LdrrM4Zz/s-l1600.jpg (https://ibb.co/d4ttSn50)
Pigmy Pony
25-07-2026, 14:30
I bought a cheapo Sony direct drive, the ones with the hollow plastic plinth. It was okay, provided you didn't drum on it, not really far off an SL1200 as you'd worry that much. I was going to tinker with it by adding blu tak to the inside of the plinth and whatever else came to mind, but then someone needed a deck so I gave it away.
Also had a Sanyo DD in faux rosewood plinth that came as part of a job lot. Mint, not a mark on it, or the lid, looked brand new. That was also pretty decent, good enough for anyone not taking vinyl very seriously. Gave that to the bloke who fitted my FM ariel. Probably sell for £200 on ebay now.
This was the Sanyo - TP1012
https://i.ibb.co/LdrrM4Zz/s-l1600.jpg (https://ibb.co/d4ttSn50)
Your generosity is matched only by your capacity for filling your house with stuff you haven't given away yet :)
well they didn't owe me much, twenty quid each or so. This is 25 years ago I'm talking. No-one wanted turntables.
I'd take that Sanyo over a Rega 3. But not over an SL1200 or the old LP12 Valhalla. Or a Systemdek IIX which is what I ended up with for a long time.
Pigmy Pony
25-07-2026, 16:06
I sometimes wish I'd held onto my old Valhalla Linn with its Grace G707 and MP11 Boron, but I got a decent deal part ex-ing against the Monarch. But then what would I do with it? Just be cluttering up the place. I've seen tee shirts that say "It's not hoarding if it's vinyl", but that's meaning records, not record players.
I bought a cheapo Sony direct drive, the ones with the hollow plastic plinth. It was okay, provided you didn't drum on it, not really far off an SL1200 as you'd worry that much. I was going to tinker with it by adding blu tak to the inside of the plinth and whatever else came to mind, but then someone needed a deck so I gave it away.
Also had a Sanyo DD in faux rosewood plinth that came as part of a job lot. Mint, not a mark on it, or the lid, looked brand new. That was also pretty decent, good enough for anyone not taking vinyl very seriously. Gave that to the bloke who fitted my FM ariel. Probably sell for £200 on ebay now.
This was the Sanyo - TP1012
https://i.ibb.co/LdrrM4Zz/s-l1600.jpg (https://ibb.co/d4ttSn50)
Decent little deck that, and a bargain for the price. Like you say though, the plastic plinths kill them for proper hi-fi use. Just think how all that drumming (resonance) is being picked up by the stylus and ruining the sound!:eek:
Marco.
Yes it's far from ideal. I think Technics got it right with their rubberised compound stuff for the 1200/1210 plinths.
But I thought it would be interesting to take one of the cheaper ones with the hollow plinth and see what could be done with it. Solve that and you'd have something at least half-decent for pin money, at least back then.
Indeed. It's worth it as a project.
The rubberised compound stuff on the 1200/1210 was introduced to stop vibration from dance floors during its use in nightclubs, and yes, is effective. You still need a decent set of feet (Isonoes, etc) to finish the job.
Marco.
Wakefield Turntables
26-07-2026, 08:58
It's perfectly feasible to treat the technics like Lenco 75's in that you only need a few essential parts to make a fantastic TT. The motherboard is probably the only thing you need. I should think that everything else could be removed (optimised) or replaced with after market alternatives. The only original bits of my 1210 are the plinth and the motherboard (and even that's been modded)!!
It's perfectly feasible to treat the technics like Lenco 75's in that you only need a few essential parts to make a fantastic TT. The motherboard is probably the only thing you need. I should think that everything else could be removed (optimised) or replaced with after market alternatives. The only original bits of my 1210 are the plinth and the motherboard (and even that's been modded)!!
Agree Andrew and I have a spare motherboard so I think it will outlast me :)
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