View Full Version : Parquet Floor restoration
Has anyone any experience of wood floor restoration as I have a Parkay Floor that needs restoring. I discovered it in the hall of my house and it covers an area of 6 square meters.
I phoned a few flooring specialists and the first quote came in at £400! Do you think this is reasonable as check a trade mentioned a figure or £25 per square meter which would work out about £150-£200?
I could have a go myself and hire a machine to sand the floor but I feel its s pro job?
parquet i take it you mean?
yes you can do it yourself. needs made sound then a sanding and resealing. dust can be an issue so you need to be very aware to get rid of it all first before sealing. we did it ourselves in my mums house. we found it surrounding all the rooms' floors downstairs. and in small hall was tiles. its an easy enough ob but you need to be patient. ps i dont think 400 is excessive for pros now
Pigmy Pony
22-08-2023, 12:38
parquet i take it you mean?
yes you can do it yourself. needs made sound then a sanding and resealing. dust can be an issue so you need to be very aware to get rid of it all first before sealing. we did it ourselves in my mums house. we found it surrounding all the rooms' floors downstairs. and in small hall was tiles. its an easy enough ob but you need to be patient. ps i dont think 400 is excessive for pros now
I agree. Although you have been given a guide price of £25 per sq metre, there will be a minimum cost, as they still have to come out to price job, then come back to do job, set up for work and clean up afterwards, regardless of floor size. And 6 sq metres is rather small.
You could have a go yourself, hire cost prob about £40/day plus sanding sheets, and you may well end up with a satisfactory result... personally I couldn't be arsed, maybe 20 years ago.
Thanks for the comments. I think I will leave it for a professional job as I don't really want the hassle myself. I will see what other quotes come in at and then make a decision. It was originally an Oak floor but was treated with a dark sealer which needs to come off as I would like the original lighter colour to come through. Nice to find it after 3 years in the house.
I suspected it was there but only looked for sure today!
AJSki2fly
22-08-2023, 14:20
Thanks for the comments. I think I will leave it for a professional job as I don't really want the hassle myself. I will see what other quotes come in at and then make a decision. It was originally an Oak floor but was treated with a dark sealer which needs to come off as I would like the original lighter colour to come through. Nice to find it after 3 years in the house.
I suspected it was there but only looked for sure today!
Hi James
We saved and restored the Teak parquet flooring in our bungalow, its from the early 70's. You cannot buy this now accept reclaim at around £100/sq metre, well work saving and it looks nice.
Ours looks like this https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fi.ebayimg.com%2F00%2Fs%2FNzY4WDEw MjQ%3D%2Fz%2FSU0AAOSwI2xbhpP1%2F%24_86.JPG&f=1&nofb=1&ipt=d2ca21c2cb472341edfa7b230024ef845ded61654abee4 434e25b702ad88158a&ipo=images
I took ups about 12sq metres from one area, levelled the floor where a wall and chimney had been., and then relayed the parquet. The parquet it on a bitumen backing and with age some of the wooden blocks were coming loose, this was an easy fix gluing them back with a flexible modern flooring glue in a tube. Once refitted I sanded them back using a hand held random orbital sander, I considered renting a belt sander but was told there was a rush of loosening wood blocks with a more powerful one. I attached a Mr Henry hoover to the output of the sander ket all the windows fully open and had sealed up the doors with masking tape. I also worked a proper breathing mask
I initially sanded with 100-120 discs, and then a quick final sand with 200. Our lounge is 4m by 5.5m and it took about 4 hours to sand. After I thoroughly hoovered, including the walls and ceiling, yes the dust gets everywhere. Then I wiped over the parquet with a lint free cloth dampened with white spirit, this lifts the last remnants of dust out of the wood grain.
To finish off the next day I sealed it with https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001GUAAKS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 I would advise applying 3 coats with a lint free cloth, follow the instructions and allow to dry before applying each further coat.
It is actually not a hard job to do, a bit labour intensive but was worth the effort and I am very pleased with the end result. If you want to save on costs worth a go IMO.
By the way initially keep the dust in the vacuum, if you have any large gaps due to shrinkage you can mix with wood glue to make a filler, fill then a quick sand once dry.
Pigmy Pony
22-08-2023, 14:42
Good tip about making your own wood filler, I've done this in the past. Better colour match than shop-bought stuff too.
Thanks for the info Adrian, your floor looks great and I have heard about keeping the vacuumed dust to use as filler - good tip.
dave2010
22-08-2023, 17:35
Not really sure about the latest prices, but in a previous house we had a wood block floor restored - sanded and polished, As I recall the room was about 12-14 square metres. It was quite some while back, - over 20 years, and I think we probably paid about £3-400. It was worth doing.
I also recall it being quite messy - lots of dust, and of course it needed a day or two to dry.
You could get another quote - it doesn't sound like a very big area. Are you sure yours is only 6 or so square metres? When we checked we found that the house at the time had much more wood block flooring than we knew about at first, but a lot had been carpeted over.
On balance though, even if only 6 m2, unless you really want to do it yourself, it might be a lot easier to let someone else do it. I have done all sorts of DIY in the past - some good - some pretty shoddy - but am less inclined to bother nowadays. The days of changing engines for cars, or circuit boards for central heating boilers etc. have long gone.
parquet i take it you mean?
yes you can do it yourself. needs made sound then a sanding and resealing. dust can be an issue so you need to be very aware to get rid of it all first before sealing. we did it ourselves in my mums house. we found it surrounding all the rooms' floors downstairs. and in small hall was tiles. its an easy enough ob but you need to be patient. ps i dont think 400 is excessive for pros now
Err yes I did mean Parquet - I have changed my atrocious spelling!:o:uhho:
al b back
24-08-2023, 15:19
You can use a epoxy adhesive that you would not have to clean the old adhesive off,it’s not hard to use a industrial floor sander and edger.you need to go down the sandpaper grades, when you get the floor cleaned off get some of the fine dust mix it with a bit of seal and give the floor a tight wipe over to fill the small gaps,then Res and with fine paper.After that put a coat of finish seal let it dry then give it another sand with a smooth used sand paper to burnish then after it’s properly free of dust then put the final coat of seal on,if you are Laying the floor (refit) don’t forget to put expansion cork around the perimeter because timber expand s and shrinks with temperature.if you are just laying 6 metres I would not think it would expand much,I am talking about real wood not uniclick laminate flooring.when I did it on the final burnishing I turned the sand paper upside down and got a furniture style finish also you are better of using a lambs wool cloth to apply the seal a much better even finish,I have just laid 78 metre’s of reclaimed 1 inch thick 9inch solid oak wood block herringbone design with a 2 block border with a in laid lacing strip.the preparation is the most important,the reclaimed timber came from a chemistry laboratory a good bit of sanding was required to get the blocks leveland super smooth.p.s if you are using a industrial big sander remember to empty the sander bag as fine wood dust is highly combustible ,send some pictures of the timber you are going to lay.hopefully this helped . Sorry about the grammar I can only use one finger typing my other hand has just had a operation.
Cheers
A
al b back
24-08-2023, 15:29
https://f-ball.com/wp-content/uploads/product.B95-750x750.jpg
Thanks for the info Al. I am still considering a professional to do the work as Hiring all the equipment and buying the varnish etc would cost 50% of the job.
al b back
24-08-2023, 15:34
https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/bona-mega?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzLm46s71gAMVAuvtCh1q3gcQEAQ YBCABEgLegPD_BwE>in=7312790016424
You can get cheaper and different manufacturers
https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/img/prodspecs/124/66/big--5915d318.jpg
al b back
24-08-2023, 15:41
110.84
Overview
Bona Mega Varnish is a water-based, polyurethane floor varnish. Ideal for offices, small shops, hotel rooms and domestic properties, Bona Mega offers the performance of a 2K floor varnish in a ready-to-use formula. Provides excellent flow and levelling to give an exceptional, professional looking finish every time.
Want to retain the natural 'untreated' look of wooden floors? Consider Bona Mega Natural
Need a 2-pack floor varnish for heavy use commercial environments? Use Bona Traffic HD
Preparation
Previously waxed, polished or oiled floors cannot be overcoated with Bona Mega Varnish unless sanded back to bare wood. Floors to be varnished must be clean, dry and free of all dust, dirt and other surface contaminates.
Sand floors back to bare wood
Final sanding should be done with a 120 grit sanding disk, screen or good quality sandpaper
Use a vacuum cleaner to remove all traces of sanding dust from the area to be varnished
For filling small gaps between walls, skirting boards and floors use Bona Gap Master
For filing holes, splits, dents and other surface imperfections, use Bona Mix and Fill or Bona Mix and Fill Plus
Wood Floor Primers
For application to bare wood floors we recommend using a wood primer. Primers help with adhesion between the varnish and floor and can help with the colouration of the final finish. Bona Mega is compatible with the following primers:
Product Use
Bona Classic Primer A non-yellowing primer that produces light wood colouration for use with the Bona range of varnishes
Bona Intense Primer For a medium rich colouration. Highly suitable for floors with underfloor heating and/or moving floors such as end grain or plank floors. Especially suitable on dense, oily, tropical hardwoods
Bona Amber Primer Produces a rich, amber colouration. Ideally suited for oak and darker tropical species of wood. GreenGuard approved
Please note: The use of Bona White Primer or Bona Natural Primer is not recommended for this product as the natural ingredients in Bona Mega will yellow the final finish.
Application
Always do a test area before starting any project to assess product suitability and final finish. Shake well before use. Ensure room temperature does not fall below 13°C during application and drying. Thoroughly read and follow the manufacturer's instructions on the container at all times.
The following applicators are recommended for application of Bona Mega:
Product Description
Bona Swivel Head Applicator A specialist 46cm floor applicator for professional floor finishers that is used in conjunction with the Bona Applicator Sleeve.
Bona Lacquer Roller A synthetic, medium pile roller for the application of Bona varnishes.
Apply thinly with a brush, roller or floor applicator
Start at the edges and then roll with a smooth flowing action alternately across and with the grain of the wood
Avoid accumulations of finish and overlap wet-in-wet without interruption
Allow to dry before applying the next coat. Anticipate slightly longer drying time for each layer that is applied
If necessary, lightly sand or denib using a screen or the Bona Scrad System, grit P150 or finer before applying the final coat
Where a longer drying time is required due to high temperature and/or low humidity, Bona Retarder can be added to the varnish to increase the 'open time' of the product.
Please Note: If the previous layer of finish has been allowed more than 24 hours drying time then an intermediate sanding is always required. The floor will take light foot traffic approximately 8 hours after the final application. Allow the surface to dry for at least 1 week before covering with carpets or other floor coverings, or loading with heavy objects. Also avoid damp mopping the floor until after this time.
Aftercare
Wooden floors should never be saturated with water as part of a cleaning routine as this will significantly reduce longevity and performance of the finish. Never use household cleaners / detergents as these may degrade or damage the finish
Regular Cleaning
For optimal performance, floors coated with Bona Mega will benefit from being cleaned with one of their floor mops and specifically formulated, pH balanced wood floor cleaners.
Product Description
Bona Cleaner Concentrate A concentrated version of Bona Wood Floor Cleaner. Add water to clean up to 2,000 square meters of flooring per liter of concentrate
Bona Wood Floor Spray Mop An easy to use spray mop with changeable or refillable cartridge
Bona Wood Floor Cleaner Spray An everyday floor cleaner in a convenient 1L trigger spray bottle
Bona Mega Renovation
Floors treated with Bona Mega that have become dull or tired looking over time can be restored with the following products.
Product Description
Bona Freshen Up A ready-to-use, maintenance coat to refresh the appearance of Bona Mega Varnish
Bona Polish Creates a durable wear layer for previously varnished floors. Available in both a Matt and Gloss finish
Bona Wood Floor Polish A ready-to-use, water-based maintenance coating for previously varnished wooden floors
Bona Wood Floor Refresher A ready-to-use, water-based maintenance coating for previously varnished or painted wooden floors
Do you want to come and do it?:)
Hi James
We saved and restored the Teak parquet flooring in our bungalow, its from the early 70's. You cannot buy this now accept reclaim at around £100/sq metre, well work saving and it looks nice.
Ours looks like this https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fi.ebayimg.com%2F00%2Fs%2FNzY4WDEw MjQ%3D%2Fz%2FSU0AAOSwI2xbhpP1%2F%24_86.JPG&f=1&nofb=1&ipt=d2ca21c2cb472341edfa7b230024ef845ded61654abee4 434e25b702ad88158a&ipo=images
I took ups about 12sq metres from one area, levelled the floor where a wall and chimney had been., and then relayed the parquet. The parquet it on a bitumen backing and with age some of the wooden blocks were coming loose, this was an easy fix gluing them back with a flexible modern flooring glue in a tube. Once refitted I sanded them back using a hand held random orbital sander, I considered renting a belt sander but was told there was a rush of loosening wood blocks with a more powerful one. I attached a Mr Henry hoover to the output of the sander ket all the windows fully open and had sealed up the doors with masking tape. I also worked a proper breathing mask
I initially sanded with 100-120 discs, and then a quick final sand with 200. Our lounge is 4m by 5.5m and it took about 4 hours to sand. After I thoroughly hoovered, including the walls and ceiling, yes the dust gets everywhere. Then I wiped over the parquet with a lint free cloth dampened with white spirit, this lifts the last remnants of dust out of the wood grain.
To finish off the next day I sealed it with https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001GUAAKS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 I would advise applying 3 coats with a lint free cloth, follow the instructions and allow to dry before applying each further coat.
It is actually not a hard job to do, a bit labour intensive but was worth the effort and I am very pleased with the end result. If you want to save on costs worth a go IMO.
By the way initially keep the dust in the vacuum, if you have any large gaps due to shrinkage you can mix with wood glue to make a filler, fill then a quick sand once dry.
Brilliant job, looks lovely :thumbsup:
Something to bear in mind about bituminous layer under floor tiles - it could be your damp proof layer:doh:
I had removed old floor tiles from our front room and carefully scraped off the bitumen “adhesive” (1950’s bungalow), when wood floor specialist came around to survey he damp tested and told me that i would need to include damp proof floor leveller in the job as i had removed the original tar - apparently it was the standard practice at the time of the build.
AJSki2fly
25-08-2023, 10:08
Brilliant job, looks lovely :thumbsup:
Sorry I was being lazy to show the type of parquet flooring,
This is a photo of ours
https://i.postimg.cc/bY4LFGwW/IMG-2124.jpg
Sorry I was being lazy to show the type of parquet flooring,
This is a photo of ours
https://i.postimg.cc/bY4LFGwW/IMG-2124.jpg
Equally lovely ! There’s something about wood floors - i was getting so pissed off with vacuuming carpet, whereas i quite enjoy sweeping our wood floor
https://i.postimg.cc/9Mv6YHR2/IMG-0087.jpg (https://postimg.cc/47Q2XMQ2)
AJSki2fly
25-08-2023, 14:37
Equally lovely ! There’s something about wood floors - i was getting so pissed off with vacuuming carpet, whereas i quite enjoy sweeping our wood floor
https://i.postimg.cc/9Mv6YHR2/IMG-0087.jpg (https://postimg.cc/47Q2XMQ2)
Very nice, tastefully decorated. Was just about to what are the speakers are, as I sort of recognise them, then noticed your signature.
walpurgis
25-08-2023, 15:45
I must admit, I far prefer the herringbone pattern for laying. Or even fan pattern laid for the adventurous :).
al b back
26-08-2023, 11:03
Thanks for the info Al. I am still considering a professional to do the work as Hiring all the equipment and buying the varnish etc would cost 50% of the job.
You could buy the smaller bottle or use a Tung or Danish oil on it or a shellac and wax it.
Cheers
A
al b back
26-08-2023, 11:22
I must admit, I far prefer the herringbone pattern for laying. Or even fan pattern laid for the adventurous :).
Inserting a border with Herringbone or laid on a 45 degrees angle makes the floor pop,i prefer real wood compared to Amtico and Karndean even though there is some fantastic designs
https://www.amtico.com/media/2476217/dc472swatchjpg.jpg?mode=pad&width=566&height=566&bgcolor=f8f8f8&format=webp
https://www.amtico.com/media/2475873/sp159swatch.jpg?mode=pad&width=566&height=566&bgcolor=f8f8f8&format=webp
https://www.amtico.com/media/2467845/dc331swatch.jpg?mode=pad&width=566&height=566&bgcolor=f8f8f8&format=webp
https://www.amtico.com/media/2475873/sp159swatch.jpg?mode=pad&width=566&height=566&bgcolor=f8f8f8&format=webp
https://www.amtico.com/media/2478047/21756-amtico-inspiration-gallery.jpg?anchor=center&mode=crop&heightratio=1&width=370&rnd=133081612320000000&format=webp
Cheers
A
al b back
26-08-2023, 11:29
Very nice, tastefully decorated. Was just about to what are the speakers are, as I sort of recognise them, then noticed your signature.
Very nice room,relax and inviting
Cheers
A
al b back
26-08-2023, 11:33
Equally lovely ! There’s something about wood floors - i was getting so pissed off with vacuuming carpet, whereas i quite enjoy sweeping our wood floor
https://i.postimg.cc/9Mv6YHR2/IMG-0087.jpg (https://postimg.cc/47Q2XMQ2)
Very nice room,relax and inviting
Cheers
A
al b back
26-08-2023, 11:37
Do you want to come and do it?:)
ok i will just pop around and sort it out
ok i will just pop around and sort it out
:thumbsup:
I will take some photos of the floor I have in situ when I have finished decorating and removed the carpet. Having taken a peak at it I think it is a teak Parquet floor and is fairly dark in colour however initially I may not have it restored back to original. This will have a few issues in that the carpet gripper is nailed around the edges and will leave some small nail holes when I remove it.
So can anyone advise what product I can use to fill the holes with. I believe there is some wax coloured stick or something available that may do a temporary job before I have it renovated? I presume during renovation they will use some of the sanding to make a gap filler mixed with some gunk?
al b back
26-08-2023, 18:07
if you sand it use the fine saw dust with the sealor you could heat some wax stick and mix some fine saw dust and put it in,if you can not get a wax stick to match.if i was taking up the gripper rod i would tap it with a hammer/bolster from inside where the nails are as it would do less damage than pulling it with a claw hammer.
Cheers
A
I must admit, I far prefer the herringbone pattern for laying. Or even fan pattern laid for the adventurous :).
Yes. School I went to had it in every room including the huge assembly hall. I think they must have used a whole rainforest up.
The only floors worth bothering with are parquet or Minton tiled. Anything else, carpet it. Or lino if kitchen/bathroom.
Jim - get a man in. ''Unless your an expert, always get a man in''.
Yes. School I went to had it in every room including the huge assembly hall. I think they must have used a whole rainforest up.
The only floors worth bothering with are parquet or Minton tiled. Anything else, carpet it. Or lino if kitchen/bathroom.
Jim - get a man in. ''Unless your an expert, always get a man in''.
I am definitely getting someone in as I know it will take me forever!:doh:
if you sand it use the fine saw dust with the sealor you could heat some wax stick and mix some fine saw dust and put it in,if you can not get a wax stick to match.if i was taking up the gripper rod i would tap it with a hammer/bolster from inside where the nails are as it would do less damage than pulling it with a claw hammer.
Cheers
A
Cheers Al.
al b back
26-08-2023, 20:20
if i had been local i would off helped you or done for you
cheers
A
if i had been local i would off helped you or done for you
cheers
A
That would have been great but I think I am 5 hours from Newcastle.
Thanks for all the advice though, at least I can use some of it to ensure whoever does do the job does it properly.
Pigmy Pony
26-08-2023, 20:29
I am definitely getting someone in as I know it will take me forever!:doh:
I would. But if you're in danger of changing your mind have a look at this:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=video&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiFyJ_jk_uAAxXeQkEAHVTvAM4QtwJ6BAgJEAI&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DCG nuFhoxjrM&usg=AOvVaw2mX0zPG_S-jgZUTIofIMIX&opi=89978449
But try to get recommendations. Even "professionals" can do a shit job.
walpurgis
27-08-2023, 06:13
Even "professionals" can do a shit job.
But there again, a handy amateur can do a good job :).
al b back
27-08-2023, 09:41
I’m very surprised the video. Did not show him fill the gaps around the blocks with a mix of seal and fine sawdust from the last sand also it did not look like he burnished between coats of seal so the coats of seal would bonded better,it would of been easy to burnish with the large upright orbital sanding disk.but I suppose horses for coarses,all the gaps he highlighted in the first few minutes of the video should have been rectified,filled with dust and the seal instead of just filling it with seal alone.
Cheers
A
al b back
27-08-2023, 09:49
The marks and undulations in the floor are off the sanding machine a good quality sander like a Heywood has a lever that raises the sanding drum off the floor when coming to the end of each run so you do not get sanding machine drum marks also I cannot he di not check for loose blocks first,he will not be coming to my house to do work.lol.
Nearly finished 3 months of decorating the hall stairs and landing so not far off pulling back the carpets to reveal the Parquet floor and decide if it is a job I want to do in restoring it or a pro job.
But in the meantime I have an oak handrail and oak capping in on the landing banister which needs to be stripped and re varnished. I have idea about the best way to go about doing this. Do I just had sand the oak down and then re apply varnish? I want a natural look so I take it I would need just a clear wood varnish?
Any comments would be be helpful if anyone has knowledge in doing this type of work.
a bigger job than it looks sometimes depending on how much stuff is on it but take it all off and finish with a very light paper then use a cleaner or tack rag to get all dust off... use a denibber pad between coats.
a bigger job than it looks sometimes depending on how much stuff is on it but take it all off and finish with a very light paper then use a cleaner or tack rag to get all dust off... use a denibber pad between coats.
There is a fair bit of varnish still on but should not be too difficult to remove. I would like to get a natural finish too the wood but not sure if I should use varnish or wax?
There is a fair bit of varnish still on but should not be too difficult to remove. I would like to get a natural finish too the wood but not sure if I should use varnish or wax?
generally i'd use clear varnish unless it needs staining. surprising the amount of handling they can get. but if its nice wood and its not gonna get much handling then wax is a better look imo
generally i'd use clear varnish unless it needs staining. surprising the amount of handling they can get. but if its nice wood and its not gonna get much handling then wax is a better look imo
:thumbsup:
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