Dynavector XX2 mk2 mounting

[Fergus]

Hi all

Just received one of these carts second hand lightly used.

Went to set it up last night fairly late and realised it’s not very compatible with the headshells I own which are ‘closed hole’ types like some AT headshells (so no holes at the top for the screw to go through).

It’s not really a big deal as I can order or even borrow some standard style headshell to try it out but I’m wondering if anyone knows of some screws with small heads that can work when mounting this cart from underneath. Has anyone done it?

I hope that all makes sense!

Thank you,
Fergus

[Barry]

You need to use 2.5mm diameter screws. Buy some long ones and cut them down to a suitable length.

What is the make of your headshell with the blind holes?

[Fergus]

Thanks Barry
I’m trying to use an AT MG-10.
The problem seems to be the mounting holes are very close to the cartridge body so a regular screw head is slightly too large.



You need to use 2.5mm diameter screws. Buy some long ones and cut them down to a suitable length.

What is the make of your headshell with the blind holes?

[Barry]

According to this: https://www.tnt-audio.com/sorgenti/xx2mk2_e.html , your Dynavector XX2 Mk.2 cartridge has tapped holes in the body. Thus you cannot use it with a headshell that has blind fixing holes. You will either have to use a headshell with through holes, or drill out the blind holes of the Audio Technica headshell.

[walpurgis]

Screw heads can be reduced in width by mounting the screws in an electric drill, leaving the screw head a few MM clear of the chuck and taking the width down carefully with a fine file while the drill turns. I've done this myself. Don't overtighten the chuck, aluminium is fairly soft and you could get marks.

[struth]

Screw heads can be reduced in width by mounting the screws in an electric drill, leaving the screw head a few MM clear of the chuck and taking the width down carefully with a fine file while the drill turns. I've done this myself. Don't overtighten the chuck, aluminium is fairly soft and you could get marks.

yes or fine paper too.

[Fergus]

Thanks for all the tips. Much appreciated.
Tbh I don’t know what tapped holes are.
I read the DV holes are threaded which is fine but I’ll look up the difference between tapped and threaded!
If it’s compatible with the cart mounting holes I’ll follow the advice above and file the heads a bit.
Otherwise I’ll borrow a headshell with through holes until I find a fancy looking headshell online.
Thank you, Fergus

[struth]

Thanks for all the tips. Much appreciated.
Tbh I don’t know what tapped holes are.
I read the DV holes are threaded which is fine but I’ll look up the difference between tapped and threaded!
If it’s compatible with the cart mounting holes I’ll follow the advice above and file the heads a bit.
Otherwise I’ll borrow a headshell with through holes until I find a fancy looking headshell online.
Thank you, Fergus

tapped and threaded are same thing..:)

[struth]

strictly talking, the threading is the making of the male part using a die, while tapping is the female part using a tap... just for your info lol

[CageyH]

I have had a look at my XX2.
I don’t see how you are going to mount it from underneath very easily.
There appears to be very little space for the head of the fasteners.

[Fergus]

Ah! Merci monsieur


strictly talking, the threading is the making of the male part using a die, while tapping is the female part using a tap... just for your info lol

[Fergus]

Yes it could indeed be a pointless exercise. I was just curious if anyone else managed it.
I just have a strange fetish for headshells with closed holes ��



I have had a look at my XX2.
I don’t see how you are going to mount it from underneath very easily.
There appears to be very little space for the head of the fasteners.

[Fergus]

I have had a look at my XX2.
I don’t see how you are going to mount it from underneath very easily.
There appears to be very little space for the head of the fasteners.

Yes you could be right. Thanks Kevin.

[AJSki2fly]

Yes you could be right. Thanks Kevin.

Hi Fergus, just read this thread, not sure what screws(bolts) you are using but it would be advisable to use either aluminium or plastic, in other words non-magenetic, especially if you intend to put the screws in from underneath. A relatively large head that is magnetic may interfere with the cartridge working properly. In fact this is advisable for any cartridge mounting I believe.

[Barry]

The Dynavector XX2 has threaded holes in the body, so the fixing screws (i.e. fully threaded bolts) are applied from the top, through the holes in the headshell. That is why there is little room for the screw head on the underside of the cartridge, and why you cannot use a headshell that has blind tapped holes.

[Fergus]

The Dynavector XX2 has threaded holes in the body, so the fixing screws (i.e. fully threaded bolts) are applied from the top, through the holes in the headshell. That is why there is little room for the screw head on the underside of the cartridge, and why you cannot use a headshell that has blind tapped holes.

Thanks Barry. I think that’s good advice.

[Fergus]

Hi Fergus, just read this thread, not sure what screws(bolts) you are using but it would be advisable to use either aluminium or plastic, in other words non-magenetic, especially if you intend to put the screws in from underneath. A relatively large head that is magnetic may interfere with the cartridge working properly. In fact this is advisable for any cartridge mounting I believe.

Thanks for your reply. I’m using the ones that came with the cart. They’re aluminium I believe. I occasionally use stainless steel but it’s rather dubious if they’re fully non-magnetic, esp if bought eastern sellers

[Barry]

Thanks for your reply. I’m using the ones that came with the cart. They’re aluminium I believe. I occasionally use stainless steel but it’s rather dubious if they’re fully non-magnetic, esp if bought eastern sellers

Depends on the grade of stainless steel. The only grades which are truly non-magnetic are the following: Austenitic steel grades 302HQ, 303, 310, 316, 321 253MA, and 904L.

If in doubt use aluminium fixings. (The old advice to bolt up the cartridge tightly is now discredited. It was started by Linn who almost suggested you "tighten the bolts
until they shear, then slacken by a quarter turn". :lol:

[Fergus]

Depends on the grade of stainless steel. The only grades which are truly non-magnetic are the following: Austenitic steel grades 302HQ, 303, 310, 316, 321 253MA, and 904L.

If in doubt use aluminium fixings. (The old advice to bolt up the cartridge tightly is now discredited. It was started by Linn who almost suggested you "tighten the bolts
until they shear, then slacken by a quarter turn". :lol:

Thanks Barry. Good to know the ref numbers for the non magnetic grade SS.
I’ve read a lot of threads that mention the Linn tightness thing but never knew the origin. So cheers for that! ��