Speaker baffle mounting?

[walpurgis]

Now then, as part of a speaker build project, I want a way of retaining a removable front baffle (panel) with no visible screws or other means of retaining it in sight. I have some ideas, but does anybody have thoughts?

[Light Dependant Resistor]

Now then, as part of a speaker build project, I want a way of retaining a removable front baffle (panel) with no visible screws or other means of retaining it in sight. I have some ideas, but does anybody have thoughts?

One way might be to use magnets mounted internally at the cabinet boundaries, then attracting magnets on the panel similarly just under the surface
Whilst this design uses plugs for the grille, it might give design ideas, as the boundaries are seem-less ? http://www.wagner.net.au/speakers/06KIT-SS_NP.pdf

[walpurgis]

I've worked with Neodimium magnets and they are tricky to bond in place due to being very smooth, the surface has no 'key' and they have a habit of coming loose.

[struth]

https://www.kjmagnetics.com/blog.asp?p=sticky-business-how-to-glue-neodymum-magnets

[Edward]

I've always like the way Harbeth attach their grills. Sturdy steel frames fitting in precise rebates cut into the baffle. Very clean look when grills taken off. Another advantage is it minimises edge diffraction etc when mounted.

For magnet mounting this guy inserts the magnets within the baffle and grill structures so that the magnets don't move around once fixed.

http://audiojudgement.com/diy-magnetic-speaker-grill/

[walpurgis]

Nope. I'll steer clear of magnets I think :).

I'm thinking along the lines of embedded 'T' nuts in the baffle which can be filled over and wing bolts from inside, obviously I can secure these through the speaker opening.

[Pharos]

I suggest the ATC method. The baffles are screwed with allen bolts to the body, and a frame with grille cloth slips over with rounded corners to remove the diffraction problems of edges. I have made speakers using this approach.

[WullieD20]

Your answer lies in the material intended for manufacturing the baffle (and remainder of the carcass) and the subsequent choice of fastenings.

I would have discounted magnets for this use from the beginning as your baffle has to be an integral part of the carcass in order for the drivers to do their job.

I think your previous comment about T-nuts could go some way to achieving your desire, but is the cabinet totally sealed, or is the back panel removable? (Thus allowing access to the inside for the purose of fastening the baffle?).

More info would help in making the final decision.

G.

[struth]

sorry geoff i thought it was baffle covers you were talking about... :doh:

[walpurgis]

sorry geoff i thought it was baffle covers you were talking about... :doh:

No. It was baffle fixing I was concerned with. I think I have a workable scheme in hand now :). More later.

[walpurgis]

I suggest the ATC method. The baffles are screwed with allen bolts to the body, and a frame with grille cloth slips over with rounded corners to remove the diffraction problems of edges. I have made speakers using this approach.

Radiused edges are part of the design already and grilles (as such) won't be used.

[Pharos]

In that case if the baffle is the same in dimensions as the front face, use the ATC method without their inset and curve the baffle, T nuts etc.