View Full Version : Rebuilding and modifying my Lentek head amp
So... My Lentek MC head amp had gone noisy on one channel, making a 'rustling' sound (a common fault with these units when the carbon resistors go bad).
Therefore, rather than wasting time tracing the fault to a specific resistor, I decided to revamp the PCB and upgrade all the existing resistors for Audionote Tantalum and Charcroft Z-Foils, with the latter fitted in the most crucial parts of the circuit, as from experience I know how both sound, and the Z-Foils impart a lovely 'sparkly clarity' to the top-end.
I decided to keep the Tants as caps (the blue ones, shown below), but replace them with new ones of the same value [being as the originals would be over 30 years old], as I like how they sound, and also retain the original output devices. The unit had already been fitted with Cardas Litz output cables and KLE Silver Harmony 'bullet' phono plugs, plus solid-copper (low-mass) Eichmann connectors. That was the first upgrade I did, which made a big difference.
So, here is the before:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/lr4SEk.png
And now the after pics, including after it had been tested on a scope:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/s58DfP.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/sufr6H.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/PuF2Ki.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/ugsWv0.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/ophmNl.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/zhZNvL.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/JFiAEz.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/m7hT1D.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/QGc122.jpg
All work was carried out by Anthony Matthews of Tube Distinctions. Can't wait to get it back and hear how it sounds, so full report to follow!:cool:
Marco.
Hello... IS THERE ANYONE AT HOME?:wave::wave:
Thought modding Lenteks was popular around here!:D Any comments on what I've done?:)
Marco.
VillageIdiot
27-10-2020, 17:46
Attention seeker seeks attention...
Is that supposed to be funny - do you want banned for your cheek?
Marco.
Sorry mate, don't get what you mean?:scratch:
Marco.
calvados is a dept. he is the village idiot according to his user name :ner:
He'll be a banned village idiot if he doesn't apologise and promise not to address me like that again.
So idiot-boy, you've got until 6.30pm to do so, otherwise you're a gonner.. Comprende?
Marco.
VillageIdiot
27-10-2020, 18:33
If the cap fits...
interesting ip of manchester, considering your supposedly in france
Bye!!:wave:
I blame whoever or WHATever breeds these cretins. Total waste of oxygen.
Marco.
Frinpaul
27-10-2020, 22:03
Hi, as it happens I'm currently listening to my trusty little Lentek, and I'll be very interested in your thoughts on your modification! Mine is stock, and used with an original Entre cartridge through a Paul Hynes tubed phono stage. Had this combination for a long time and have always been very happ, but your Lentek modification could just tempt me into something similar.....please keep us posted with your thoughts?
Hi Paul,
The standard Lentek is very good (I've been using one on and off since the 80s) and it has one of the most musically vibrant sounds I've heard from any other comparable device, I think due primarily to the simplicity of the circuit used, but is let down a little by some of the components, as after all, it was built to a price more than 30 years ago.
In that respect, the original phono sockets and output cables are very much 'of their time', and so should be the first thing that's changed. Doing that alone, simply allows the circuit to 'breathe', as some significant bottlenecks will have been removed. For some reason, it also sounds best with a Duracell battery, which performs better than any other make.
In terms of component replacements, the reason I went down the route I've gone is in order to preserve what gives the Lentek its core addictive sound, which primarily in my view is the output devices used and the Tant caps. The stock carbon resistors tend to fail through time, as they age, and can certainly be bettered by modern metal-film types, or those I've chosen to use, as outlined.
They should certainly improve both the unit's reliability, noise levels and sonic performance, so I will report back in due course once I've had a listen. If you're intending to do these mods yourself, using the same parts, please bear in mind that the cost is not insignificant, as the resistors themselves were £120, and the sockets, plugs and cable around £150, so not cheap.
However, I'm confident that when I listen with the new components in place, it will reward me with the type of sound I'd expect to hear from an MC head amplifier in the region of £800-£1k. and so in that respect, offering high sound-per-pound value and a worthwhile return on one's investment. More later though, so stay tuned!:cool:
Marco.
Firebottle
28-10-2020, 07:43
Nice one Marco. I was a bit confused when you said 'I decided to upgrade the components to xyz' and 'after it had been tested on the scope' :scratch:
but your last line explained matters :D
Wakefield Turntables
28-10-2020, 11:01
Had a Nick Gorham modded version of was ok sold it on I'll not be going back to this part of my hifi journey
Nice one Marco. I was a bit confused when you said 'I decided to upgrade the components to xyz' and 'after it had been tested on the scope' :scratch:
but your last line explained matters :D
Lol... Did you think I'd been given a scope for my birthday? Nah, I'll leave that stuff to you guys!:eyebrows:
Marco.
Had a Nick Gorham modded version of was ok sold it on I'll not be going back to this part of my hifi journey
Fair enough, Andy. However, this one has been modded using quite different components, in order to preserve the Lentek's core sonic signature (as described), whilst reducing noise and adding a goodly dose of refinement, but crucially not robbing it somewhat of its 'fun factor'.
As good as it was in many ways, that's what I felt was missing when Nick modded an earlier one of mine, and which I've now put down to having largely been the result of replacing the Tants with Oscons, and why this time the same mistake hasn't been made:)
Marco.
Wakefield Turntables
28-10-2020, 15:23
Fair enough, Andy. However, this one has been modded using quite different components, in order to preserve the Lentek's core sonic signature (as described), whilst reducing noise and adding a goodly dose of refinement, but crucially not robbing it somewhat of its 'fun factor'.
As good as it was in many ways, that's what I felt was missing when Nick modded an earlier one of mine, and which I've now put down to having largely been the result of replacing the Tants with Oscons, and why this time the same mistake hasn't been made:)
Marco.
Marco, I'm glad your enjoying yourself again. It's nice to see you post on a regular basis. I decided against toying around with head amps. I didn't really see the need for another box in the signal path. I must admit to still using a SUT with my Cadenza Black on the 1210. I'm afraid I'm enjoying vintage MM's + valve phonostages to worry too much about head amps. I never really gelled with the 103 and I've owed the 103R, 103M and the 103 stock. I'll not be visiting the 103 stable. I'm having way too much fun with the SC35C and EAR834P combo. :D
RobsterD
28-10-2020, 17:35
Hi Marco
Good job !but isn’t it cheating not doing it yourself :lol:
I did something similar though interesting re the chalcrofts might investigate that.
I did Kiwame resistors ,Nichicon and Wima caps with CMC phonos and
Audio Origami output lead bested a Puresound T10
brian2957
28-10-2020, 17:41
Aye , excellent work . Good to see you getting into modding again Marco . Your posts in this area are always detailed and interesting :)
DarrenHW
28-10-2020, 17:55
It looks so pretty now Anthony's finished with it!
I did look into modding the Lentek, but from the point of view of the power supply i.e. the Battery. If I am to keep the Lentek I'd make it external, not that I expect any audible benefit from doing this, but it would make the process of changing the battery a lot more user friendly! This would then give the option to run multiple 9v batteries in parallel or better still a smart rechargeable 9v pack, which I would hope would offer an audible benefit due to the increased amperage, but even if it didn't it would mean extended battery life and a means to test battery power.
RobsterD
28-10-2020, 18:08
I tried changing the battery for an external regulated PSU all I got was hum dunno why so reverted back to battery
Marco, I'm glad your enjoying yourself again. It's nice to see you post on a regular basis. I decided against toying around with head amps. I didn't really see the need for another box in the signal path. I must admit to still using a SUT with my Cadenza Black on the 1210. I'm afraid I'm enjoying vintage MM's + valve phonostages to worry too much about head amps. I never really gelled with the 103 and I've owed the 103R, 103M and the 103 stock. I'll not be visiting the 103 stable. I'm having way too much fun with the SC35C and EAR834P combo. :D
Fair enough, Andy, and thanks. My hiatus from 'hi-fi shenanigans' was only liable to be fairly short lived, as my passion for it has always remained. It was simply that I was more involved with my other interests and hobbies, especially when life was more normal and the weather was good. However, with the lockdown situation and now the winter months arriving, my interest in hi-fi has been rekindled!:)
In terms of what you've said about the 103, can I ask if you've ever used it in a high-mass arm, say a typical Jap one with a detachable headshell, such as I use, or the likes of an FR64, or just on your usual, is it, SME V? If not, then that would ably explain why you've never got on with it, as quite simply it won't work properly on that kind of arm.
For a 103 to sound right, the headshell alone has to be (min) 16g. It also sounds much better when used through an MM phono stage, together with either a head amp or an SUT, than through a standalone MC stage, hence why I've put so much effort into optimising the performance of those types of devices I use with it, the Lentek being a case in point.
However, I'm glad you're enjoying the SC35C, with your EAR, which I'm sure sounds fab. As you know, I'm a big fan of that cartridge, again when optimally set up and partnered - and IME it's as fussy in that respect as a 103! How did you get on with the NOS stylus you bought, and have you added any further capacitance, by experimenting with loading?
Marco.
Hi Rob,
Hi Marco
Good job !but isn’t it cheating not doing it yourself :lol:
I did something similar though interesting re the chalcrofts might investigate that.
I did Kiwame resistors ,Nichicon and Wima caps with CMC phonos and
Audio Origami output lead bested a Puresound T10
Lol - I guess it is cheating,, but I wanted the thread eventually to archive on a part of the forum where it'd be most relevant to those interested in the topic:)
Interesting that yours bested a T10, which in itself is a nice bit of kit and considerably more expensive than the Lentek, even when modded.
I'm not a big fan of Kiwames though, finding them a bit warm sounding for my tastes (good for 'taming' some digital circuits, though), and with the Lentek. given what I've learned now, I'd always retain the Tants. Wimas in any other circuit would almost certainly be better, but for me the Tants are a big part of what gives the Lentek its 'proper' sound:)
Marco.
Aye , excellent work . Good to see you getting into modding again Marco . Your posts in this area are always detailed and interesting :)
Hi Brian,
Cheers, mate. As you know, Anthony's top notch, plus him and I generally agree on where to take projects like this, sonically, so he's easy to work with, and of course also a good friend:)
I always try to make these types of threads as interesting and informative as possible, as indeed I did with the Techy threads, while I was going through my journey of modding it, or indeed with anything else I've done similar things to. For me, it only works right if you focus on the details, and do things as methodically and correctly as possible, rather than rushing things through impatience:cool:
Marco.
Wakefield Turntables
28-10-2020, 20:01
Fair enough, Andy, and thanks. My hiatus from 'hi-fi shenanigans' was only liable to be fairly short lived, as my passion for it has always remained. It was simply that I was more involved with my other interests and hobbies, especially when life was more normal and the weather was good. However, with the lockdown situation and now the winter months arriving, my interest in hi-fi has been rekindled!:)
In terms of what you've said about the 103, can I ask if you've ever used it in a high-mass arm, say a typical Jap one with a detachable headshell, such as I use, or the likes of an FR64, or just on your usual, is it, SME V? If not, then that would ably explain why you've never got on with it, as quite simply it won't work properly on that kind of arm.
For a 103 to sound right, the headshell alone has to be (min) 16g. It also sounds much better when used through an MM phono stage, together with either a head amp or an SUT, than through a standalone MC stage, hence why I've put so much effort into optimising the performance of those types of devices I use with it, the Lentek being a case in point.
However, I'm glad you're enjoying the SC35C, with your EAR, which I'm sure sounds fab. As you know, I'm a big fan of that cartridge, again when optimally set up and partnered - and IME it's as fussy in that respect as a 103! How did you get on with the NOS stylus you bought, and have you added any further capacitance, by experimenting with loading?
Marco.
I've not done the high mass arm route and I really must start trying Jap stuff. Life's moving on and it's one of those areas that I keep promising myself that I must visit. I'm still on the SME V and now also a V-12 I have been tempted to try the FR64 but just never got around to purchasing one. The 103 did sound reasonable on my SME 3012 but I strongly suspect that I hadn't properly optimised it.
Now the SC35C is a different kettle of fish and as such I have optimised things further still. My capacitiance loading experiments are over as I feel I have reached optimum loading. The NOS stylus hasn't been out of the packet yet. I'm having far too much fun with the JICO SAS/s version which I strongly recommend. I have been experimenting in two other areas. Firstly with power supplies to the 301 and also with an Oscilloscope for improving stereo channel separation. I use a Phoenix Engineering PSU + Tachometer to control the 301 speed, it's a great product let down by lousy power SMPS supplies that introduce a lot of noise into the equation. This has driven my crazy over the last 3 months. I've now removed the SMPS products for the 9V battery supply and cheap linear regulated PSU from China. Now I have no hum and the soundstage is quite and both massive and glorious. The Oscilloscope is still a learning curve but does improve stereo channel separation. So, my next area's of experimentation and investment are going to be super low noise PSU's and a better valve phonostage.
It looks so pretty now Anthony's finished with it!
Lol - cheers, mate. He's a very neat worker:)
I did look into modding the Lentek, but from the point of view of the power supply i.e. the Battery. If I am to keep the Lentek I'd make it external, not that I expect any audible benefit from doing this, but it would make the process of changing the battery a lot more user friendly! This would then give the option to run multiple 9v batteries in parallel or better still a smart rechargeable 9v pack, which I would hope would offer an audible benefit due to the increased amperage, but even if it didn't it would mean extended battery life and a means to test battery power.
Yup, makes sense, so if/when you go ahead with that project, I'd be interested in hearing the results. I'd defo keep the Lentek though, as long as you're retaining the services of your 103, as it's such a sonically synergistic partnership.
Marco.
I tried changing the battery for an external regulated PSU all I got was hum dunno why so reverted back to battery
I think one of the reasons why the Lentek sounds good is because of the lack of mains-borne noise/interference, when amplifying such a delicate low-level signal. Battery power in that particular application therefore, for me, is the way to go:)
Marco.
I've not done the high mass arm route and I really must start trying Jap stuff. Life's moving on and it's one of those areas that I keep promising myself that I must visit. I'm still on the SME V and now also a V-12 I have been tempted to try the FR64 but just never got around to purchasing one. The 103 did sound reasonable on my SME 3012 but I strongly suspect that I hadn't properly optimised it.
Yup, as do I... Given that you love the sound of the SC35C, I think you'd be equally enamoured by a fully-optimised 103, as both have similar traits:)
Now the SC35C is a different kettle of fish and as such I have optimised things further still. My capacitiance loading experiments are over as I feel I have reached optimum loading. The NOS stylus hasn't been out of the packet yet. I'm having far too much fun with the JICO SAS/s version which I strongly recommend. I have been experimenting in two other areas. Firstly with power supplies to the 301 and also with an Oscilloscope for improving stereo channel separation. I use a Phoenix Engineering PSU + Tachometer to control the 301 speed, it's a great product let down by lousy power SMPS supplies that introduce a lot of noise into the equation. This has driven my crazy over the last 3 months. I've now removed the SMPS products for the 9V battery supply and cheap linear regulated PSU from China. Now I have no hum and the soundstage is quite and both massive and glorious. The Oscilloscope is still a learning curve but does improve stereo channel separation. So, my next area's of experimentation and investment are going to be super low noise PSU's and a better valve phonostage.
Interesting stuff... I've no doubt that you've improved matters in that area, as I'm no fan of noisy SMPS units, used in any audio application. Also, I've always preferred the 301 to a 401, and considered that if the former was properly fettled, it'd not be the latter's inferior brother - and also IMO is the better looking!
There are two idler T/Ts I'd love to own quality examples of, and that's a TD-124 and 301. In terms of the latter, I'd like an Audio Grail 'hammered grey' BBC one, and may well add one to my system at some point in future:cool:
Marco.
Frinpaul
28-10-2020, 22:01
Hi Marco,
Thanks for such a prompt and detailed reply - much appreciated!
I take your point about the original output cables being a potential bottleneck; I have thought that might well be the case, especially as one of the phono connectors on mine is slightly temperamental. Is it relatively straightforward to change the cables and, if so, could you recommend cables that would be an improvement? I'm afraid any internal work on the Lentek would likely be beyond me - actually, it was the fact that you mentioned that you had outsourced the work that initially piqued my interest.
I agree that Duracells seem to be about the best match battery-wise. I was, though, very impressed with some Philips alkalines that I tried a few years ago - they were being sold in Poundland, and were the only batteries I've tried that I felt were (at least) a sonic match for the Duracells in the Lentek.
All the best :)
Hi Marco,
Thanks for such a prompt and detailed reply - much appreciated!
I take your point about the original output cables being a potential bottleneck; I have thought that might well be the case, especially as one of the phono connectors on mine is slightly temperamental. Is it relatively straightforward to change the cables and, if so, could you recommend cables that would be an improvement? I'm afraid any internal work on the Lentek would likely be beyond me - actually, it was the fact that you mentioned that you had outsourced the work that initially piqued my interest.
I agree that Duracells seem to be about the best match battery-wise. I was, though, very impressed with some Philips alkalines that I tried a few years ago - they were being sold in Poundland, and were the only batteries I've tried that I felt were (at least) a sonic match for the Duracells in the Lentek.
All the best :)
No worries, Paul, you're welcome. The rather 'flaky' nature of the stock connectors on the Lentek is well-known, but there wasn't much better around in the 80s! In terms of connectors, I'd use these copper ones from CMC, as they're very good quality and well priced:
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/phono_sockets/cmc-805-2.5-cur-rca-sockets.html and in terms of cable, I used this Cardas Litz stuff, which is excellent. Keep the lengths as short as possible (just enough to reach the partnering kit, but with a bit of flexibility): https://www.hificollective.co.uk/wire/cardas-2x215-awg-sheilded-inteconnect-wire.html
And as for phono plugs, the sky's your limit. I used these: https://www.hificollective.co.uk/phono_plugs/innovations-silver-harmony-plug.html but you could just as easily use the slightly less expensive copper versions, in order to maintain a solid-copper contact connection with the CMC sockets: https://www.hificollective.co.uk/phono_plugs/innovations-copper-harmony-plug.html
For me, you can easily hear the sonic improvements of solid-copper or silver plugs and connectors, over their brass counterparts. I also like the low-mass nature of the shells on the KLE Harmony plugs, as to reduce eddy currents, you want the least amount of metal on plugs as possible, and so contrary to what your instincts may tell you, in terms of getting 'value for money', the heavier and more solid the better is NOT the case...
You want light but rigid, low-mass, non-magnetic shells on phono plugs, where for best sound, the only metal used is in the conductors themselves!
In terms of upgrading the 'internals', should you wish to go there, I'm sure that Anthony would be more than willing to do the work for you, as he did for me, so just pop him a PM (anthonyTD) and it would simply be a case of sending the unit to him and agreeing the cost, in order to do what's necessary. Hope that helps:)
Marco.
Frinpaul
29-10-2020, 22:16
Hi Marco,
Thanks for the info and suggestions, much appreciated. I certainly think my little Lentek deserves some new cables and sockets!
Paul
Definitely, Paul. If you fit the items I've recommended, or similar, I'm sure you'll be very pleased with the results! Let us know how you get on:)
Marco.
Frinpaul
31-10-2020, 09:28
Hi Marco,
I was very interested to hear that low mass connectors are the way to go - I would have followed intuition and gone down the heavy/chunky route, so thanks for the heads-up on that. I must admit to a lot of prior scepticism when it comes to the sonic effect of cables and plugs, until I happened to change the turntable mains cable for something better (but not esoteric) that I had sitting around, and being very surprised at the improvement. More recently I have played around with speaker cables (having stuck with NAC A4 for 30+years!) and been very surprised by the sonically diverse results - so, I am now convinced that the smaller links in the chain do play a significant part in the overall result.
Kind Regards
Paul
The Black Adder
24-11-2020, 13:33
How is this working out, Marco?
Tremendous, it's a different beast - and best I've ever heard a Lentek! More on that later:)
It's currently at Anthony's just getting some caps replaced we missed the last time, along with my headphone amp, being modified, which we discussed. So as soon as Anthony's done that and they're ready, we can sort out your Copper amp:cool:
ATB,
Marco.
The Black Adder
24-11-2020, 15:51
Cool.. I'd be really interested in having the same done to mine too.
Just a small addendum to this thread... In the end, the initial reported 'rustling noise' wasn't due to the original carbon resistors going bad, as first thought, but rather one of the output transistors going noisy!
Even though the unit was sounding *massively* better, after the cap and resistor upgrades, the rustling noise was still present, so it was returned to Anthony to trace the fault, subsequently revealed as outlined.
Therefore, in order to preserve the sound of the unit, as much as possible, as generated by the existing transistors/output devices, we decided to source some NOS ones with the same values, which eventually were obtained from a supplier in Holland, and now the unit, other than some residual hiss, when no signal is present (which is normal) is completely silent and sounds stunning.
More on that shortly, including a summary of my overall observations on this project:cool:
Marco.
Filterlab
02-01-2021, 10:26
I have to say that it looks a LOT cleaner internally after the rebuild.
Wakefield Turntables
02-01-2021, 16:02
Nice to hear it's been sorted out. Should make for an interesting read when you post your thoughts.
Ok, just a few thoughts to summarise this project, before wrapping it up...
Based on my now fairly extensive experience of modding the Lentek, I'd say that the way to go, in terms of components, if you wish to preserve its vibrant and fun sound, but inject a little more refinement and finesse, is to definitely retain the Tant caps, as they're intrinsic to the unit's core sound. Instead, don't be tempted to fit something purporting to be more 'audiophile' or exotic, as you'll stifle or risk ruining its infectious joie de vivre.
However, upgrading the resistors for something much better than the existing carbon ones definitely pays significant dividends, and here don't be afraid to spend big. In that respect I had great success with AudioNote non-magnetic Tantalums and Charcroft Z-Foils, which complimented each other nicely and produced a smooth but detailed sound, with plenty of weight and dynamic alacrity, coupled with excellent timbral definition and a well-judged tonal palette. However, other combinations may prove similarly fruitful.
Upgrading the existing output cables and phono connections for something more modern and better quality is, in my view mandatory, as otherwise it hobbles signal quality, adversely affecting the sound. Therefore, it's best to address this area first, which will then allow you to hear exactly what the circuit is doing, and make adjustments to that from there. At some point also be prepared to replace the output transistors/devices, should they become noisy, as one of mine did, and if so seek to find NOS replacements that are a good match, both sonically and electrically with the originals.
All of the above done, the battery-operated Lentek has a distinct advantage over other active MC head amps, subject to mains-borne noise, which affects the very delicate signal produced by low-output MC cartridges and subsequently taints its musicality. Plus also because the circuit is so simple, yet effective, with few components in the signal path, all of which makes for an accurate sound, and with the mods carried out as described, allows it perform WAY above its price tag and to compete with some genuine exotica!
In my experience, best results are obtained by partnering the Lentek with a quality valve MM phono stage, such as those found in Croft preamps, and the lower end (output-wise) of low-output MC cartridges. This is because the Lentek has a prodigious amount of gain and could cause saturation with some of the higher output (still classified as low-output) MCs, by overdriving them. A great match, to my ears, in that respect, both sonically and electrically, is the Denon DL-103, and for me is as close to a match made in heaven as you're likely to get.
The Lentek, thus modified and partnered, will make most SUTs, including Denon's own, sound a little soft/polite, and rounded off dynamically. It's certainly the device to use if you favour a more upfront sound with superb PRaT, but with the mods in place, is also capable of subtlety and variations in tonal colour. Traits, along with creating a sense of air and space around voices and instruments that are important in making music sound lifelike, which the best SUTs excel at, thus providing one with a solution that offers the best of both worlds.
In conclusion then, the Lentek, suitably modified as outlined (and partnered with a quality low-output MC cartridge), is a superb tool for extracting maximum musical information from your record collection, and in turn providing a very satisfying overall listening experience. As such, it is highly recommended and capable of competing with, and outperforming, many more expensive designs.
Therefore, if you want vinyl to put a smile on your face, seek out a vintage Lentek, for around £60, and spend a couple of hundred pounds further on turning it into a veritable giant-killer. Then partner it with a DL-103 and nice tube MM phono stage. Trust me, it'll be one of the best bargains you'll ever experience in audio!:cool:
Marco.
Jac Hawk
06-01-2021, 10:27
Hello... IS THERE ANYONE AT HOME?:wave::wave:
Thought modding Lenteks was popular around here!:D Any comments on what I've done?:)
Marco.
Just saw this thread, was looking at the original PCB photo and soldering thinking yeah that looks like the sort of work i'd expect from Marco, then being a little gobsmacked with the latter photo's of how good the workmanship was, only to find right at the bottom that you didn't do any of the work and sent it off to Anthony. Disappointed in you Marco, very disappointed indeed, hope it sounds good though.
Lol - why be disappointed? You're missing the point. This thread wasn't meant to document MY work, but a project I'd undertaken, executed by Anthony.
And the reason it's in the DIY room, is so that the information is seen by as many people as possible who may be interested in doing the same, and which could've been missed, had it been posted in faster moving sections of the forum, and therefore will later be more effectively archived:)
And yes, it sounds STUNNING now, thanks!:cool:
Marco.
dont think it matters who does the work as long as its done and improved. not everyone is good at soldering etc. I used to be good at it but now i'd get someone to do it too.
Indeed, mate. A DIY-er I'm not, but I like to modify kit in this way [almost every component of my system has been expertly 'pimped'], as experience has taught me that it's the cheapest and most effective way to own truly outstanding sounding gear:)
Plus, I know that there is an interest in Lenteks on AoS, so didn't want to post this in Analogue Art, where it may not have reached the intended audience as effectively.
Marco.
Jac Hawk
06-01-2021, 13:10
dont think it matters who does the work as long as its done and improved. not everyone is good at soldering etc. I used to be good at it but now i'd get someone to do it too.
That's true Grant, i just found it funny and Marco went up a few points in my estimations, only to come crashing right back down:doh::lol::lol: but it's a good thread with some valuable insight.
Ha - my view is that when someone can do a job FAR better than me, let them get on with it;)
A good man always knows his limitations!:eyebrows:
Marco.
https://d2dzik4ii1e1u6.cloudfront.net/images/lexology/static/79fc2d22-e826-4713-a376-eb7a7d246f36.PNG
That's true Grant, i just found it funny and Marco went up a few points in my estimations, only to come crashing right back down:doh::lol::lol: but it's a good thread with some valuable insight.
dont want that to happen :eyebrows:
https://d2dzik4ii1e1u6.cloudfront.net/images/lexology/static/79fc2d22-e826-4713-a376-eb7a7d246f36.PNG
Exactly what I was thinking about when I said it!:D
Marco.
dont want that to happen :eyebrows:
Heaven forbid that I should be thought of as anything other than a DAFTEE!:D
Marco.
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