DIY Virgin - Tool Advice?

[Mothman]

Never really soldered before and would like to have a go. I have an old amp which I can use to practice on replacing components but not sure what kit I will need so would appreciate some advice from you exerienced DIY'ers.

I have an Antex 25W soldering iron, is this powerful enough. If so then the tip will need replacing but what is the best size & type of tip for PCB work?

Is all lead free solder much of a muchness or are there superior brands that are easier to work with?

What type of solder sucker would be best to get or should I use de-soldering wick?

I do have a multi-meter but the leads have probe tips, is this OK or would it be best to get one that has crocodile clips on the leads so it can used hands free when adjusting the bias for example?

Is there anything else I'm likely to need?

Thanks in anticipation

[Pharos]

I've used an Antex 25W for numerous years, and it is powerful enough for most work, but not for large speaker cable.

Lead free is not allowed where reliability is vital, as in defence and medical usage.

I prefer solder suckers, mine came from Tandy in '85 and I'm still using the same nozzle, but Tandy is no more.

Get some croc clips and squash them so that they can be pushed, interference fit, onto the probe tips.

A piece of sponge from a Spontex sponge cloth, damped, will allow you to wipe the tip clean, as in the Antex stand.

Three necessary basics of soldering; cleanliness of material, flux, and enough heat.

[glaringanomaly]

I've found a random flux pen from Amazon really helped with a reel of Maplins lead-free solder that's been going for about 10 years now.

Also - depending how your eyes are - a magnifying glass with LEDs (either wearable or desktop) can be a godsend.

[Idm]

I have built both valve (high voltage) and semiconductor based amplifiers and am not a big fan of crocodile clips for multimeter test leads as they can have too much exposed metal that can cause potential shorts. Personally I prefer hook clips, maybe like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Test-Leads-4mm-Banana-Plug-to-Test-Clips-Hooks-Multimeter-1m-length-UK-Stock/123961599247?hash=item1cdcafe50f:g:eTcAAOSwKWha683 C

or possibly higher quality ones if you can find them.

For solder I still use 60/40 solder as it metals and flows well. Some of the silver solders are awful to work with and require higher temperatures to melt. I believe the main reason for the adoption of lead free solder is ROHS compliance rather than inherent issues with the behaviour of leaded solder. As I say 60/40 solder works really well and you can still buy it.

I used an Antex iron happily for many years and they are great. I eventually bought a Weller solder station, it was expensive (even second hand on Ebay, but it is by far the best iron I have ever used. The tips last forever and wets well.

Kind regards,
Ian

[Mothman]

Thanks to all for the usefull tips, I'll get some bits ordered:thumbsup:

[The Alchemist]

If it is of any help to you I use Cardas Quad Eutectic solder. It is a silver solder and I agree with Ian that some silver solders are a pita to use but this is different. It melts quite quickly and flows very well. I wouldn't use anything else now.

[grog]

these are excellent multimeter probes, they have little covers that pull off and allow you to fit them into 4mm sockets, or add adaptors to insulated croc clips and test probes etc.
https://cpc.farnell.com/tenma/72-9335/test-leads-lantern-tip/dp/IN06174
a bargain and last really well, unfirtunatly currently out of stock, but order them and they turn up in a few weeks,
cpc are great for solder, tools etc. free post when you spend >£10 + vat
they also have the croc clip adapters https://cpc.farnell.com/tenma/76-1205/crocodile-clip-insulated-4mm-skt/dp/IN07466 and https://cpc.farnell.com/hirschmann-testmeasurement/930113101/probe-test-30-4mm-4a-red/dp/IN07032

i use both solder sucker and de-solder braid, I would find it tricky to have just one or other,
sucker is good to remove most of the solder, but the braid/wick is invaluable for clearing holes and pads etc.

it sounds a bit OTT but an insulated trim tool adjuster is much better for adjusting bias than a screwdriver, much less chance of slipping, shorting or even affecting things with the magnetic screwdriver tip!
something like this, https://cpc.farnell.com/bourns/h-91/trimming-tool/dp/RE07600

and no i don't work for CPC, just a happy customer,
if buying parts RS do better free next-day delivery, but their prices are a little higher,
if i'm in rush or a small order i use RS, but bigger orders are cheaper at CPC .

also get some IPA/solvent and cotton buds, good for cleaning flux residue etc.

also my advice is don't get hung up on expensive components, especially when starting out, don't spend £20+ per capacitor on some fancy 'audio brand' it will be wasted. ( i did this many years ago!)
i'd start out replacing electrolytics with standard film capacitors, replace polyester film in signal path with polyprop etc, see what makes a difference,
these change in type of cap will have far more effect than industrial PP cap to boutique PP cap.

[JRead]

Hello Rich,

If you are going to make something like a simple amplifier, try not to get sucked in to the PCB caper, they are completely unnecessary.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49963105442_b64a80fbbd_z.jpg

This is my first chip amp, fitting the components in like this is good practice and great fun getting it right.

Cheers - J

[edit] Ohh and far easier to change stuff