Connect I pad by wifi

[paulf-2007]

Thought this would be as good a place as any with peeps streaming from the Internet. I have a garden listening room with Ethernet cable connected to the house. Wifi will not reach my room and would like to connect my iPad and I phone to wifi. Is it as easy as connecting a router to this Ethernet cable that is connected to the router in the house, or will this create a problem.

[paulf-2007]

I'll give it a try over the weekend

[eatapeach]

you will probably have to set the old (or new) router to access point or repeater mode.

[paulf-2007]

you will probably have to set the old (or new) router to access point or repeater mode.
I'll bear that in mind thanks

[Stratmangler]

You need to turn DHCP off on the second router - if you don't you'll have have two bits of kit trying to allocate IP addresses, and there will be conflicts, which in turn will cause things to misbehave.

[dave2010]

You need to turn DHCP off on the second router - if you don't you'll have have two bits of kit trying to allocate IP addresses, and there will be conflicts, which in turn will cause things to misbehave.
You probably only need a wireless access point, if you are intending to buy a new one. a router might well be overkill, and lead to additional problems. If you did use a router, and connected that to a wired network, you might discover that you’d get unwanted loops, thought this hazard depends on the devices and their configuration.

Although you can probably use the same SSID and channel numbers, you might find it easier to have a different SSID. If you use the same SSID, it’s almost certainly a good idea to use a different channel number.

You might also want to use different wireless security methods for the additional point. I did that once to allow an older device to connect, thought these days that shouldn’t be necessary.

These days most mobile devices will roam quite easily between different access points, even if you do use different SSIDs and wireless channels.

Good luck with this.

[eatapeach]

You probably only need a wireless access point, if you are intending to buy a new one. a router might well be overkill, and lead to additional problems. If you did use a router, and connected that to a wired network, you might discover that you’d get unwanted loops, thought this hazard depends on the devices and their configuration.

Although you can probably use the same SSID and channel numbers, you might find it easier to have a different SSID. If you use the same SSID, it’s almost certainly a good idea to use a different channel number.

You might also want to use different wireless security methods for the additional point. I did that once to allow an older device to connect, thought these days that shouldn’t be necessary.

These days most mobile devices will roam quite easily between different access points, even if you do use different SSIDs and wireless channels.

Good luck with this.

yes - like I said- set a second router to access point mode. Although we don't know if the OP already has a spare router. If not - buy something like this - far simpler....

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WA801ND-Wireless-Access-Point-Noir/dp/B004UBU8IE/ref=sr_1_2?qid=1581259156&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A1452464031&s=computers&sr=1-2


Or this which doesn't even need ethernet

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Powerline-Adapter-Homeplug-Wireless-Extender/dp/B00C580FZA/ref=asc_df_B00C580FZA/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310754948045&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6969615245064806868&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046651&hvtargid=pla-564957322461&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

[Stratmangler]

You probably only need a wireless access point, if you are intending to buy a new one. a router might well be overkill, and lead to additional problems. If you did use a router, and connected that to a wired network, you might discover that you’d get unwanted loops, thought this hazard depends on the devices and their configuration.

Although you can probably use the same SSID and channel numbers, you might find it easier to have a different SSID. If you use the same SSID, it’s almost certainly a good idea to use a different channel number.

You might also want to use different wireless security methods for the additional point. I did that once to allow an older device to connect, thought these days that shouldn’t be necessary.

These days most mobile devices will roam quite easily between different access points, even if you do use different SSIDs and wireless channels.

Good luck with this.
There's no point in telling me.
I'm not looking to try and get 2 routers working together on the same network.

I wouldn't be asking for help on a HiFi forum either :)

[dave2010]

There's no point in telling me.
I'm not looking to try and get 2 routers working together on the same network.

I wouldn't be asking for help on a HiFi forum either :)You’re not the OP though, unless you are an imposter. :)

Re Powerline thingies with in-built wireless extenders, I wouldn’t touch them. I have several, but they are difficult to manage. Much better to either use a dedicated cable link to a suitable wireless access point, or to use two Powerline plugs to create a link, then hook a WAP into the remote one. This is, of course, only my opinion.

It the range isn’t too extensive some people have said good things about mesh networks, such as the ones BT is now offering - but at a price.

[Stratmangler]

You’re not the OP though, unless you are an imposter. :)

Re Powerline thingies with in-built wireless extenders, I wouldn’t touch them. I have several, but they are difficult to manage. Much better to either use a dedicated cable link to a suitable wireless access point, or to use two Powerline plugs to create a link, then hook a WAP into the remote one. This is, of course, only my opinion.

It the range isn’t too extensive some people have said good things about mesh networks, such as the ones BT is now offering - but at a price.
I have been called impossible before now :D

I would not touch powerline adapters either, just because they generate a load of shite and overlay it on the mains.
"You won't hear it" shout the detractors from the wings.
"I know" says I, "but you'd be surprised at how many devices do pick it up and try to amplify what cannot be heard".

A WAP would be preferable. Some even have a data switch inbuilt, so you could have wired and wireless access.
Or you could use a redundant wireless router, turn the DHCP off and do the same.

[eatapeach]

let me be the thirteenth person to say the same thing as everyone else but in a slightly different way....

[Stratmangler]

let me be the thirteenth person to say the same thing as everyone else but in a slightly different way....

None of the routers I've had over the years have had a repeater mode :)

[dave2010]

I would not touch powerline adapters either, just because they generate a load of shite and overlay it on the mains.
"You won't hear it" shout the detractors from the wings.
"I know" says I, "but you'd be surprised at how many devices do pick it up and try to amplify what cannot be heard".
You may be right - depends how fussy the OP is. Powerline units are sometimes the only practical way to go - whether they cause interference or not, and sometimes they just don't work, because the mains circuits don't always go through the same consumer unit.

I suppose some people don't use cordless phones at home, or mobile phones, or microwave ovens, or indeed computers, all of which may cause mutual interference.

I don't like wireless repeaters much either.

[eatapeach]

None of the routers I've had over the years have had a repeater mode :)

which is why some contributors to the thread gave a couple of options just in case the OP

didn't already have a spare router
didn't have a spare router that could be switched to AP or repeater mode
didn't like wireless repeaters for some reason



I can feel a diagram is required.....:rolleyes:

[paulf-2007]

Had a chat with the IT man where I used to work and he said a wifi access point and set it to the same name as the router so I can move between them, although it won't matter that much as I will probably lose the signal but will automatically connect when in range.

[AJSki2fly]

I have been called impossible before now :D

I would not touch powerline adapters either, just because they generate a load of shite and overlay it on the mains.
"You won't hear it" shout the detractors from the wings.
"I know" says I, "but you'd be surprised at how many devices do pick it up and try to amplify what cannot be heard".

A WAP would be preferable. Some even have a data switch inbuilt, so you could have wired and wireless access.
Or you could use a redundant wireless router, turn the DHCP off and do the same.

Just a few thoughts if you really want to ensure your digital music system is clean from interference be it Wifi, mains interference, bluetooth, phone voice and data signals, or any other energy signal for that matter, then it is not going to be easy.

Firstly my understanding is you would need a clean and dedicated mains circuit for the incoming ADSL box or a clean battery supply (assuming you want to stream digital music from the internet) and the only real option to avoid digital nasties as much as possible is direct optical feed into the house, but that will not guarantee it to be clean as it may be corrupted on its way to you. Also all equipment being used, computer, hard drives, DAC's, amplifiers, etc, to create the musical playback need to be plugged into clean power supply sources as well whether mains or battery, they also need to be very well shielded so as to not be affected by wifi, bluetooth, phone voice and data signals, radio and microwave etc, perhaps a Faraday Cage would be appropriate to facilitate this (you could take this to the extreme of also mitigating against magnetic field influences):D Don't forget to shield speakers from interference.:eek:

All digital cables and any other cabling of any type between devices that are going to be used in the system solution need to be very well shielded as already indicated above. At one time I think wrapping in lead would have been simple and cost effective but not any more.:uhho:

Wearing of clothing that can generate electrical energy and fields would need to be stopped, so natural fibre garments and flooring would be a must, rubbing garments together should be avoided and probably an ESD safe discharge device would be advisable before touching any equipment controls. Although perhaps listening in the nude would be best. :eyebrows: However I think the human body does generate its own electricity for certain important functions and presumably some sort of electrical field as a result, so this could be a tricky one, as touching the equipment may affect it and you would not want to use a remote control either.:scratch:

I hope you have deep pockets to come up with a good solution.:eyebrows:

[Stratmangler]

Just a few thoughts if you really want to ensure your digital music system is clean from interference be it Wifi, mains interference, bluetooth, phone voice and data signals, or any other energy signal for that matter, then it is not going to be easy.

Firstly my understanding is you would need a clean and dedicated mains circuit for the incoming ADSL box or a clean battery supply (assuming you want to stream digital music from the internet) and the only real option to avoid digital nasties as much as possible is direct optical feed into the house, but that will not guarantee it to be clean as it may be corrupted on its way to you. Also all equipment being used, computer, hard drives, DAC's, amplifiers, etc, to create the musical playback need to be plugged into clean power supply sources as well whether mains or battery, they also need to be very well shielded so as to not be affected by wifi, bluetooth, phone voice and data signals, radio and microwave etc, perhaps a Faraday Cage would be appropriate to facilitate this (you could take this to the extreme of also mitigating against magnetic field influences):D Don't forget to shield speakers from interference.:eek:

All digital cables and any other cabling of any type between devices that are going to be used in the system solution need to be very well shielded as already indicated above. At one time I think wrapping in lead would have been simple and cost effective but not any more.:uhho:

Wearing of clothing that can generate electrical energy and fields would need to be stopped, so natural fibre garments and flooring would be a must, rubbing garments together should be avoided and probably an ESD safe discharge device would be advisable before touching any equipment controls. Although perhaps listening in the nude would be best. :eyebrows: However I think the human body does generate its own electricity for certain important functions and presumably some sort of electrical field as a result, so this could be a tricky one, as touching the equipment may affect it and you would not want to use a remote control either.:scratch:

I hope you have deep pockets to come up with a good solution.:eyebrows:

:rfl:

[AJSki2fly]

:rfl:

I presume you have got your kit off and are inside and metal cage:rfl::eyebrows:

[Stratmangler]

I presume you have got your kit off and are inside and metal cage:rfl::eyebrows:

That's for weekends, when Madame Whiplash comes to visit :eyebrows:

[AJSki2fly]

I heard it was when nursey came to give you a bed bath[emoji1787]

[paulf-2007]

You may be right - depends how fussy the OP is. Powerline units are sometimes the only practical way to go - whether they cause interference or not, and sometimes they just don't work, because the mains circuits don't always go through the same consumer unit.

I suppose some people don't use cordless phones at home, or mobile phones, or microwave ovens, or indeed computers, all of which may cause mutual interference.

I don't like wireless repeaters much either.powerline units only work with both units plugged into the same circuit.
When the wifi was weak upstairs that wasn't an option as the upstairs and downstairs have separate ring circuits as does the kitchen. I can't see a use for them unless a huge house had just one ring circuit.

[paulf-2007]

You probably only need a wireless access point, if you are intending to buy a new one. a router might well be overkill, and lead to additional problems. If you did use a router, and connected that to a wired network, you might discover that you’d get unwanted loops, thought this hazard depends on the devices and their configuration.

Although you can probably use the same SSID and channel numbers, you might find it easier to have a different SSID. If you use the same SSID, it’s almost certainly a good idea to use a different channel number.

You might also want to use different wireless security methods for the additional point. I did that once to allow an older device to connect, thought these days that shouldn’t be necessary.

These days most mobile devices will roam quite easily between different access points, even if you do use different SSIDs and wireless channels.

Good luck with this.my I phone and I pad automatically connect to every wifi router that I've signed in to so when I get the wifi access point it should be simple to sign in to it once job done.

[Made in 1968]

Should be no different to your mobile phone connecting

[paulf-2007]

Should be no different to your mobile phone connecting
I take you are referring to my I pad, yes just the same.

[dave2010]

I would not touch powerline adapters either ....
"I know" says I, "but you'd be surprised at how many devices do pick it up and try to amplify what cannot be heard".

A WAP would be preferable. Some even have a data switch inbuilt, so you could have wired and wireless access.
Or you could use a redundant wireless router, turn the DHCP off and do the same.I haven't run powerline systems for hi-fi for some while now, but a couple of days ago I had a rethink about the connection of our TV to the router. For boring reasons to do with being close to the North Pole, getting regular TV signals via an aerial is almost impossible, and satellite reception works, but is not always convenient. I would like to get the satellite system working better, but that would require more wiring, so I've not pursued that too vigorously. It's still a possible project, but not urgent, nor immediate.

I did in the end connect the TV with a powerline link, and some of the problems of the TV have now largely disappeared. Since reconnecting with the powerline link, the buffering which was a problem before - with an Amazon Fire HD wireless link, appears to have gone. Additionally, the lip sync issues which we noticed after running TV for a while also seem to have gone.

I have only played one CD since doing this, and I can't in honesty say I listened closely enough to detect the presence of the interference from the powerline system. I suppose if I were really bothered I could disconnect it when I wanted to listen to music rather than watch TV.

I'm not saying there's absolutely no interference, but simply that for practical purposes sometimes powerline systems have their uses. I also took the opportunity of reconfiguring the system to check out the operation of another powerline link - a repeater, which has a wireless access point at one end and a powerline unit at the other. I was not sure how this operated before, as TP-link suggest it's plug and play, but don't say how it works. However, as far as I can see, the extension really is via the powerline, not via wireless (like a wireless repeater) - tested by disconnecting one end of the link and waiting to see if it would reconnect via a wireless link. It didn't. That system was based on this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/TL-WPA4220KIT-Powerline-Broadband-Configuration-UK/dp/B01LXOZ4EN/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1GAV7V95DBD0I&keywords=tp+link+powerline+extender&qid=1581529085&sprefix=TP+link+powerline+exten%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-6 for use with a TV which doesn't have an ethernet connection.

The link to the 49 inch 4k TV is via two powerline adapters back to back - as that TV does have an ethernet socket.

[paulf-2007]

Just looking at my thread title and realising wifi is the only way to connect an iPad.

[AJSki2fly]

Just looking at my thread title and realising wifi is the only way to connect an iPad.

No it has Bluetooth as well, which means you can connect to other devices using it, most people forget about it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[AJSki2fly]

I haven't run powerline systems for hi-fi for some while now, but a couple of days ago I had a rethink about the connection of our TV to the router. For boring reasons to do with being close to the North Pole, getting regular TV signals via an aerial is almost impossible, and satellite reception works, but is not always convenient. I would like to get the satellite system working better, but that would require more wiring, so I've not pursued that too vigorously. It's still a possible project, but not urgent, nor immediate.

I did in the end connect the TV with a powerline link, and some of the problems of the TV have now largely disappeared. Since reconnecting with the powerline link, the buffering which was a problem before - with an Amazon Fire HD wireless link, appears to have gone. Additionally, the lip sync issues which we noticed after running TV for a while also seem to have gone.

I have only played one CD since doing this, and I can't in honesty say I listened closely enough to detect the presence of the interference from the powerline system. I suppose if I were really bothered I could disconnect it when I wanted to listen to music rather than watch TV.

I'm not saying there's absolutely no interference, but simply that for practical purposes sometimes powerline systems have their uses. I also took the opportunity of reconfiguring the system to check out the operation of another powerline link - a repeater, which has a wireless access point at one end and a powerline unit at the other. I was not sure how this operated before, as TP-link suggest it's plug and play, but don't say how it works. However, as far as I can see, the extension really is via the powerline, not via wireless (like a wireless repeater) - tested by disconnecting one end of the link and waiting to see if it would reconnect via a wireless link. It didn't. That system was based on this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/TL-WPA4220KIT-Powerline-Broadband-Configuration-UK/dp/B01LXOZ4EN/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1GAV7V95DBD0I&keywords=tp+link+powerline+extender&qid=1581529085&sprefix=TP+link+powerline+exten%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-6 for use with a TV which doesn't have an ethernet connection.

The link to the 49 inch 4k TV is via two powerline adapters back to back - as that TV does have an ethernet socket.

Yep hard wiring a device that’s needing a consistent and reliable stream of data is still the best way. Although sometimes on WiFi moving to a little used band can help. Most people know there are 10 available WiFi bands, but in fact there are more if your gear will allow you to use them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dave2010]

Yep hard wiring a device that’s needing a consistent and reliable stream of data is still the best way. Although sometimes on WiFi moving to a little used band can help. Most people know there are 10 available WiFi bands, but in fact there are more if your gear will allow you to use them.
I would probably use wire for most connections if it were convenient to do so, but often it isn’t, either for distance reasons, or because the wiring route is too tricky, or because “you know who” doesn’t like tripping up over the wires I put across rooms. Sometimes I put in temporary wired links (which may cross rooms) if I need a good fast reliable link - for example for a major software update involving many gigabytes of data.

[paulf-2007]

No it has Bluetooth as well, which means you can connect to other devices using it, most people forget about it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkthats the point of being able to connect to the Internet by wifi and by Bluetooth to my project ds2 digital. Afaik it can only connect to the Internet by wifi.

[paulf-2007]

Wifi access point arrived today so connected to Ethernet cable and power. Switched on iPad and found it connected to the router in the house duh. I then checked for wifi connection on iPhone but wasn't connected, but wifi access point showed up so connected to it with password, played Spotify through Bluetooth into project ds2 digital. I then set up the iPad to pair with the wifi access point. Now both pair with either the wifi access point or wifi router. Job done.

[AJSki2fly]

Wifi access point arrived today so connected to Ethernet cable and power. Switched on iPad and found it connected to the router in the house duh. I then checked for wifi connection on iPhone but wasn't connected, but wifi access point showed up so connected to it with password, played Spotify through Bluetooth into project ds2 digital. I then set up the iPad to pair with the wifi access point. Now both pair with either the wifi access point or wifi router. Job done.

[emoji2][emoji1303]