MKI Celestion Ditton 44 - Rebuild & refurb

[HD Goofnut]

I have picked up a pair of these today with the intension of a complete strip down down and rebuild. Useful (shame about the dead images) forum threads that I have found so far are below;

Macca aka Martin - https://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?11212-Celestion-Ditton-44

istari_knight aka James - https://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?28263-Celestion-Ditton-44-Refurb-Tweeter-repair-Cab-Resto-etc

karma67 aka Jamie - https://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?40237-modifying-and-recapping-ditton-44-s

madders aka Michael - https://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?44103-Celestion-Ditton-25-and-44-Refurbs

Qwin aka Ken - https://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?31916-Renovation-of-Celestion-66-Studio-Monitors&highlight=ditton

Are there any others that I could use for reference that I have missed?

Now onto the scary stuff. Part availability and pricing.

Crossovers. I'm not looking to go mad but a refresh of the components seems a good idea and if I can make things a little nicer sounding whilst there it seems silly not to. Gold binding posts and Van Damme UP-LCOFC Hi-Fi speaker cable will be used too.

I believe tweeter upgrades are a good investment too and that a slight modification is need. These - https://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/seas-19tff-1-h0737-08-tweeter-prestige-series.html

Mids. Can they be successfully re-foamed or at worst replacements be bought new?

Subwoofers. Can these be successfully re-foamed or at worst replacements be bought new?

Any links showing where I can buy parts needed would be hugely appreciated.

Lastly would be the cabinets themselves. I think finishing them in a 240 grit then oiling with a decent product should suffice. I believe the longer some old feeds are left the harder they get. Almost like a lacquer. That said, I am tempted to try a shellac treatment.

Photos to follow shortly.

[walpurgis]

Did you check the speakers over carefully before buying them and have a good listen to them?

I would concentrate on getting the basics right before getting adventurous with modifications.

Are both black perforated domed grilles present that cover the clear tweeter domes? They are replaceable if need be. The HF2000 tweeters are the best feature of these speakers.

The Falcon tweeter mod is not an upgrade, it is a non standard replacement for desperate owners who've blown the beautiful HF2000 originals.

The mids and bass drivers do not use "foams". The cone surrounds are rubber and should be sound unless the speakers have been abused. Fitting anything else is likely to be a disaster.

I've owned a couple of good pairs of these in the past and although they sound OK'ish, I'd not describe them as wonderful. The treble is very nice, but the mid is undistinguished and the bass a bit leaden.

[HD Goofnut]

In all honesty they have been bought to refurbished. They were a tiny fraction of the cost I have seen them advertised for so i'm already at a huge financial advantage if I have to dig deep for any replacements. The important thing is that they are original, one owner and untouched. Everything appears to be in good condition, they are just showing their age and need some TLC.

I think both tweeters are covered. Being a newbie shows my lack of knowledge.That just saved me some unnecessary spending. Sorry, I meant replacing the rubbers and also re-coning. The gloss finish on the cones is thinning in areas and the mids have some funny yellowish liquid around the outside on the metal frame.

I'm interested to see what they can do and it gives me a nice little project to work on over the coming months.

[walpurgis]

The yellow around the mid frames is just oxidised adhesive and of no consequence. You can probably peel or scrape it off with a small screwdriver if it bothers you, but be very careful not to dislodge or damage the cone surrounds.

The paper cones are doped with a Plasticote type material. I'd leave it alone be to be honest. If you try to replace it or add to it, you may alter the cone mass and affect the speaker response (although probably not radically).

You can probably beneficially replace the crossover capacitors using modern equivalents. Alcaps should be fine. You can use higher voltage items, but not lower.

Repolish the cabinets and fit new terminals if need be, but I'd not do much else.

[Wakefield Turntables]

Speak to DarrenHW on this thread, he's very well versed in working with the 44's.

[HD Goofnut]

Just clean and feed the rubbers then? Microfibre cloth, slightly damp with warm water to clean and one to dry?

Crossovers will definitely get a refresh, no question. I'll go with new binding posts so I can use banana plugs. I guess the Van Damme UP-LCOFC Hi-Fi speaker cable will be fine to use.

Is the black panel a specific type of paint? Should it have been veneered or was it just the MK2 that was? I have bought some Murphy's oil soap for the wood.

Is there a one stop shop for caps or do I need to buy from several sources? Can I stay away from electrolytic capacitors?

[graham67]

Hi ben,
Nice choice for peanuts. Yes mk1 fronts were black

But once covered with new grille cloths you wont notice. ��

[HD Goofnut]

Speak to DarrenHW on this thread, he's very well versed in working with the 44's.

Thank you. I'll shoot him a pm.

[HD Goofnut]

Hi ben,
Nice choice for peanuts. Yes mk1 fronts were black

But once covered with new grille cloths you wont notice. ��

They look better than the AR3a I'm still considering just not a nice as the Spendor BC1.

[Patrick Dixon]

he HF2000 tweeters are the best feature of these speakers.

The Falcon tweeter mod is not an upgrade, it is a non standard replacement for desperate owners who've blown the beautiful HF2000 originals.
I'm afraid I don't agree; many of the HF2000s are damaged or out of spec now, and replacing them with something modern is perfectly acceptable and can definitely be an improvement. Having said that, I wouldn't rush to change them if yours appear to be OK.

There used to be some mega-threads on diy audio about Ditton 44s and crossovers.

[HD Goofnut]

I'm afraid I don't agree; many of the HF2000s are damaged or out of spec now, and replacing them with something modern is perfectly acceptable and can definitely be an improvement. Having said that, I wouldn't rush to change them if yours appear to be OK.

There used to be some mega-threads on diy audio about Ditton 44s and crossovers.

Once they are all stripped down I'll grab the multimeter so I know for sure. Thanks for reminding me about that thread. I have been searching for it but as yet haven't stumbled upon it.

[walpurgis]

I can't imagine why anybody might use a damaged HF2000, but they don't go "out of spec". Impedances were never too closely matched even when new, but the variations are inaudibly small. The diaphragm is of similar heat formed boPET type material to the KEF T27 and Coles 4001 and seems to last indefinitely. Unless abused (electrically overloaded), the voicecoil will remain in spec. The Celestion is a great sounding drive unit.

[Patrick Dixon]

I replaced the HF2000s in my Ditton 66s with Hiquphon OW1s. Much nicer.

I wouldn't go that far with 44s though; the midrange is not as nice as the 66s so it's just not worth the cost.

[walpurgis]

Theoretically, the Ditton 66 crossovers and midrange units could be transplanted into the 44's and produce an effective speaker. Unfortunately good spare parts are hard to find now and expensive. I seem to recall this may have been done in the past.

[Made in 1968]

Geoff:
Exactly why i would not buy '44's is that tweeter, besides my fav was the '33' always will be. Just a shame the Veneers on these models were not of better quality..

[HD Goofnut]

I replaced the HF2000s in my Ditton 66s with Hiquphon OW1s. Much nicer.

I wouldn't go that far with 44s though; the midrange is not as nice as the 66s so it's just not worth the cost.

I always though it was the mid dome on the 66 that let it down down as it's known to be quite finicky in comparison to the 44. I know the Hiquphon tweeter is a major upgrade but did it alter/change the original sound?

Shouldn't a complete recap solve the problems with the original midrange?


Theoretically, the Ditton 66 crossovers and midrange units could be transplanted into the 44's and produce an effective speaker. Unfortunately good spare parts are hard to find now and expensive. I seem to recall this may have been done in the past.

Depending on the condition of the speakers when they are stripped I'd be up for a project like this if I could find spares for a reasonable price. At least the MD 500 diaphragm can still be replaced.

[Wakefield Turntables]

For what it's worth. I'd stick with the original XO cap values. There are pages and pages of discussion on alternates and they always end up drawing the same conclusion. The original values sound the best.

[Made in 1968]

I changed the caps in my old '33' with Ansars, Kept with the original values but they altered the sound. You can still buy Elcap Bi-Polar Axial lead caps but i think they are in a different colour can now.. I do agree like for like.. If you are still not happy i sugest a different pair of speakers.. People would have listened to tose '33' and said they were an upgrade over the originals but im afraid what i did forced me to sell them..

[HD Goofnut]

For what it's worth. I'd stick with the original XO cap values. There are pages and pages of discussion on alternates and they always end up drawing the same conclusion. The original values sound the best.

Point taken. Totally agree, if it's been done time and time again why repeat history when the outcome is already known.


I changed the caps in my old '33' with Ansars, Kept with the original values but they altered the sound. You can still buy Elcap Bi-Polar Axial lead caps but i think they are in a different colour can now.. I do agree like for like.. If you are still not happy i sugest a different pair of speakers.. People would have listened to tose '33' and said they were an upgrade over the originals but im afraid what i did forced me to sell them..

Changing the sound with a recap is always my concern. It's a decision i'll need to make as once it's all stripped and back together I don't want to have to pull things apart again. The only other thing I can think to add is that these are going to be part of a gift to my dad who probably hasn't heard them in action since the 70's.

[Made in 1968]

Im glad you are concerned about changing the sound because if not this would bring me back to people buying old gear for the looks & engineering in the hope they can mod em & make them sound like something modern.. A straight like for like recap, if the internal wires are shot like for like copper wire no silver junk.. If the sound is not up to liking different speakers i say.. One giant giant mistake people make is changing inductors, absolutely no imho..

[HD Goofnut]

Im glad you are concerned about changing the sound because if not this would bring me back to people buying old gear for the looks & engineering in the hope they can mod em & make them sound like something modern.. A straight like for like recap, if the internal wires are shot like for like copper wire no silver junk.. If the sound is not up to liking different speakers i say.. One giant giant mistake people make is changing inductors, absolutely no imho..

Modern sound is far removed from what I hope the end product will sound like. It's also the fear about changing the tweeter. That said I would consider putting the MD500 from the 66 in the 44.

[Made in 1968]

Well people seem to think they can make these things sound modern.. I wouldnt swap the tweeters personally but thats me, i learned my lesson the hard way about not keeping stuff original..

[HD Goofnut]

What do you think about putting the MD500 for the 66 into the 44?

I'm with you on copper. I used this Van Damme in the car and for the cinema system - http://www.van-damme.com/vandamme_product/van-damme-up-lcofc-hi-fi-speaker-cable/ Too modern?

[karma67]

i would wait for a pair of 66's to turn up,they just got that speaker right on the money.

[Made in 1968]

Ben
You dont need cable as heavy as that. Just like for like none descript hook up wire the same guage will be fine if you need to change it..

Can i ask are they later veneered baffle boards or the early black painted ones?

[HD Goofnut]

Early black painted ones.

[HD Goofnut]

i would wait for a pair of 66's to turn up,they just got that speaker right on the money.

66's are still on the cards as are a couple of others. I paid very little for these so that will allow me to play around with in a sympathetic way.

[Wakefield Turntables]

https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/66/category/11

Cheap and will the job just fine. Or you could just buy some solid core 1mm copper from your local DIY store.

[Wakefield Turntables]

i would wait for a pair of 66's to turn up,they just got that speaker right on the money.

Kerching Kerching Kerching!!!!

[Made in 1968]

With the circular terminal pod. These should have tiny coloured thumb screw posts. If you feel the need to swap these or have been swapped for ugly modern ones. The ones in the link below should be good enough & look ok as a replacement with some reliable nice plating & cheap, Those coloured isolators can be removed but these are small enough

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nickle-plated-small-speaker-Binding-Posts-terminals/263222742224?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

[Made in 1968]

https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/66/category/11

Cheap and will the job just fine. Or you could just buy some solid core 1mm copper from your local DIY store.

:thumbsup:

[HD Goofnut]

Thoughts on fitting the MD500 from the 66 in the 44?

[Wakefield Turntables]

Thoughts on fitting the MD500 from the 66 in the 44?

What are you trying to achieve?

[HD Goofnut]

What are you trying to achieve?

I believed the mid on the 44 wasn't as good as it could have been. i.e. The weakest link or the poorest performing part of the speaker. As i'll be stripping these down on Wednesday to completely refurbish I though it would be a feasible option to swap it if I can source a decent pair for a good price. I assume the crossover would need titivating slightly with this option too.

[Made in 1968]

But your doing the mod thing, if the design dont sound right get a different pair of speakers.. 44's are what they are why i dont like em.. Keep telling people the '33's were best

[Wakefield Turntables]

Andre is correct swapping different drivers changes the 44. You won't have a pair of 44's with different drivers.

[Macca]

I believed the mid on the 44 wasn't as good as it could have been. i.e. The weakest link or the poorest performing part of the speaker. As i'll be stripping these down on Wednesday to completely refurbish I though it would be a feasible option to swap it if I can source a decent pair for a good price. I assume the crossover would need titivating slightly with this option too.

I agree the mid range driver is the weak point.

I sort of also agree with Andre that the 44 is what it is and if you want a better speaker just buy a better speaker. But if you're going to mod them then doing that for fun and as a learning experience are perfectly valid reasons in my book.

[HD Goofnut]

But your doing the mod thing, if the design dont sound right get a different pair of speakers.. 44's are what they are why i dont like em.. Keep telling people the '33's were best

I'm not saying it doesn't sound right, it's about trying to sort a know issue with an otherwise great speaker. Call it a restomod if you like. Mixing old and new technology sympathetically whilst trying to stay true to the original sound. This is why I was asking about the mid from the 66 rather than a modern speaker. Same thing goes for the tweeter recommendation that came in an earlier post. I appreciate the input and suggestion but fitting a modern speaker into an old cabinet with speakers from another decade doesn't appeal to me.


Andre is correct swapping different drivers changes the 44. You won't have a pair of 44's with different drivers.

Can you explain the effect it would have on the sound? :)

[Wakefield Turntables]

Can you explain the effect it would have on the sound? :)

Well in a word , no! The only way to assess the effects on the sound is to install your drivers and then see how they sound. You will also need to make sure that your XO is correctly updated which may mean dicking around with cap values. Your opening up a can of worms!!

[Made in 1968]

Can of worms indeed. & there is at least two variation of the Brown point to point X Overs to me knowing..

[HD Goofnut]

Well in a word , no! The only way to assess the effects on the sound is to install your drivers and then see how they sound. You will also need to make sure that your XO is correctly updated which may mean dicking around with cap values. Your opening up a can of worms!!


Can of worms indeed. & there is at least two variation of the Brown point to point X Overs to me knowing..

All I needed to know, appreciated. I knew the XO would need to titivating and fettling but opening pandora's box isn't something I would be interested in.

[Made in 1968]

Why not just swap out the caps like for like Type/Value would not cost much, you might hear things improve..

[Made in 1968]

'33'..'22'

:eyebrows:

[HD Goofnut]

Why not just swap out the caps like for like Type/Value would not cost much, you might hear things improve..

I'll definitely be going with caps, posts and possibly the cable too. I was just considering the "whilst in there" mentality. I have been reading up on Ansar Supersound, Alcaps and the Mundorf Ecap plain.

[HD Goofnut]

'33'..'22'

:eyebrows:


I agree they look lovely. I'll need to find something for CD's once these are done so they might fit the bill :D

[Made in 1968]

33's use a 10" Bass unit, the 22' 8"

[Jimbo]

33's must sound better then.

[walpurgis]

I'll definitely be going with caps, posts and possibly the cable too. I was just considering the "whilst in there" mentality. I have been reading up on Ansar Supersound, Alcaps and the Mundorf Ecap plain.

Spend as much as you like, but don't assume that more expensive caps equal better sound. That's not necessarily the case. Nor are non electrolytics necessarily an improvement.

I'm betting the original crossover caps are Elcaps, the black ones with red ends, which I personally would replace with Alcaps..

[Made in 1968]

33's must sound better then.

Now now no need for that.

[HD Goofnut]

Spend as much as you like, but don't assume that more expensive caps equal better sound. That's not necessarily the case. Nor are non electrolytics necessarily an improvement.

I'm betting the original crossover caps are Elcaps, the black ones with red ends, which I personally would replace with Alcaps..

I'll be trying to keep as close to the original values as possible and more than happy to be advised on what to consider. Where is the best place to pick these up, is there a one stop shop?

[Made in 1968]

I think Falcon selle em, as mentioned in an earlier post the cans are a different style now..

[walpurgis]

If you look on ebay, you'll find Cricklewood Electronics selling Alcaps at sensible prices. You can always contact them directly for a package.

[Made in 1968]

https://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/crossovers-ls35a-networks-filters-falcon/crossovers-ls35a-networks-filters-falcon.html

https://www.cricklewoodelectronics.com/ALCAP-Bipolar-Axial-Audio-Electrolytics-50V-and-100V-for-Crossovers-etc..html

[Made in 1968]

Just had a look at a Mk.1 crossover those 72uF caps would cost way too much in polyprops, I doubt you would get that value or near to but i bet your talking £30 each in Ansar if so

[HD Goofnut]

Just had a look at a Mk.1 crossover those 72uF caps would cost way too much in polyprops, I doubt you would get that value or near to but i bet your talking £30 each in Ansar if so

It costs what it costs to do the job properly :) I saved a nice lump when I purchased these and I don't have to consider buying new mids so it's all good.

[HD Goofnut]

I found this whilst searching today.

https://i.imgur.com/MRaqrU1.png

https://i.imgur.com/vn2bUW5.png

[HD Goofnut]

I am out of my depth with knowing what caps and brands are best and what will be sympathetic to the speakers. It's just too far beyond my knowledge base. Searching the net just seems to be confusing matters more. Lots of advice and lots of options out there but no common denominator between them.


Would the above list be considered as modding the XO too much?

Could the caps be considered wrong in that they will change the sound too much?

If using those caps would I be paying for a name when a cheaper no frills brand will do exactly the same job and produce the exact same sound?

[Made in 1968]

For some reason Hi-Fi dudes feel they need to go overboard with mods & boutique caps, many not knowing anything about the technicalities or at least think its ok to ignore.. If the original cap is a Bi-Polar Electrolytic then that is what it should be changed with imho.. I can promise you out of experience those El-Caps are good enough.

However that is just my view.

[walpurgis]

And I agree.

[HD Goofnut]

So the photo and list I found and posted above would be akin to swapping out the speakers for different ones?

I'm in full agreement replacing like with like, just being a newbie and seeing all the different modded crossovers it's hard to know what has been done sympathetically and what has been nothing more than a gratuitous and unnecessary spurge of money.

[HD Goofnut]

Is this original?

https://i.imgur.com/fhN8iSx.jpg

[Patrick Dixon]

I agree the mid range driver is the weak point.

I sort of also agree with Andre that the 44 is what it is and if you want a better speaker just buy a better speaker. But if you're going to mod them then doing that for fun and as a learning experience are perfectly valid reasons in my book.

Yeah, I agree. Plus finding some 66 mids will be quite tricky and expensive, so I don't think that's a great direction to pursue.

[Patrick Dixon]

i would wait for a pair of 66's to turn up,they just got that speaker right on the money.

Sounds great with OW1s fitted too ;-)

[HD Goofnut]

A little bit later than expected but I have just finished stripping the first cabinet. It would seem someone has been tinkering. Out of interest what colour should the tweeter diaphragm be on the MKI 44 if it's original? Black or clear? One midrange has been fitted with aftermarket screws and the crossover has definitely been tampered with.

So far from original, that will teach me for not checking more closely!

Crossover photos.

https://i.imgur.com/H5v4uSR.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/KOtI5vC.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/RC6mJ9b.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/K74NEUy.jpg

[Made in 1968]

The Pye caps are right, i once had a pair of Ditton 25 with em..

Black tweet. Other maybe be a replacement from a later model..

[HD Goofnut]

Both are the same, is there any way to tell if they have been rebuilt using the parts sold on ebay? The cabinet has a date stamp of October 1974.

I can't find my multimeter, when I do I'll post up what each speaker registers.

To save me having to grab the XO, is there a list for which Alcaps and Ansars i'll need to buy as I'd like to get them orders tonight I can.

[Made in 1968]

This threads got a bit of a mess

The caps on the right side that are taped up were originally polyseters are the ones that need to be polyprops.. Each bunch needs to be replaced with just one polyprop. They are wired in Parallel so you just add the values together.. The rest are non polorized change em as near as like for like in 'ALCAP' Axial .. Remember the original None polorised caps have a tolorance of 10% so if you cannot get the exact value stay within +/- 10% the original specified valve.. 50V are fine but you may have to go to 100V rating to get some values..

C6+C7: 2uF+2uF [ 1x 3.9uF Ansar]
C8+C9+C10: 2uF+2uF+2uF = 6uF [ 1 x 6.8uF Ansar]

Pye 6uF/50V [1 x Alcap 6uF/50V]

The two non polorized caps in parallel keep as two seperate Alcaps. 24uF + 6uF Alcap]

As for the 72uF You will have to go with 100V ratings they dont do a 50V

https://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/alcap-72-00uf-100v-dc-high-power-electrolytic-capacitor-nonpolarised-reversible-series.html

[HD Goofnut]

Like Jamie's?

https://i.imgur.com/e1JYuqf.jpg

[Made in 1968]

Yeh like that

[Made in 1968]

Dont know whay hes used two Ansars in parallel. no need for that.

[karma67]

to get the right values!

[Made in 1968]

No need like ive pointed out the originals were +/- 10%. Ansar are available in that required value..

My last post on here anyway people are complaining..

[Marco]

No need for it to be your last post, Andre. Just keep things constructive:)

Marco.

[spendorman]

I believe that a good upgrade for the 44 is to fit the 66 dome midrange unit, no crossover mods required. Speaker then has the mid of the 66, but with tighter bass.

[DarrenHW]

@Marco - That's Rudolph Hucker? He looks like such a nice old man, not the twisted, arrogant, narcissistic lady part that pollutes our little community. Appearances certainly can be deceiving.


Hi Ben,

Sorry for the late response, I only picked up your PM yesterday and I've just had chance to read through the thread.

I don't know if you've seen Ken's thread (https://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?31916-Renovation-of-Celestion-66-Studio-Monitors&highlight=celestion) but all the answers you need regarding recapping are here. Yes, this is relating to the 66's but the Tweeter and Bass are the same drivers. To my ears the combination of Alcap (Bass), Mundorf E-Cap + Ansar bypass (mid) and Ansars (Tweeter) was the winner.

I had two pairs of 44's, one with 30uF and one with 27uF in the mid. I think I preferred 27uF, but can't remember, it was 2014! I did post on here, possibly in Ken's thread so you may stumble across my opinion, but that's all it is, so treat it as so.

I did actually end up swapping the mid for MD500's, as per Alex's suggestion above, it was him that sowed the seed in my head then. I tried both the MD500 and MF500 and agreed with Ken, that the MD500 had better integration, but both were a major step up from the stock 44 mid. As other's have stated though 66's are a better starting point, unless of course the journey's more important than the destination? I learnt a great deal from messing around with these speakers and had fun with it at the same time. The Beovox 5700 used to be a good source of HF2000 and MD/F500 drivers for a low price, so worth keeping an eye out for a donor pair.

I also swapped the HF2000 for the SEAS unit as I found it a bit smoother with a bit more sparkle.

It is worth mentioning that they really need good power, stands and space to sound their best.

I've mentioned the SEAS and MD500, but my advice would be to start with a basic recap and see if you like them and if they like your system and room. As with all things audio, there's a compromise with these and pretty much all Celestion speakers of the era* which is a trade off between the mid range and the bass which some people just can't live with, better to find out early before getting too invested. I personally still have mine and listen to them every day, albeit Bi-amped with external XO, SEAS tweeter and MD500, I know they're flawed, but I love their sound and don't know what I'd replace them with other than a complete DIY build.



*Before I get flamed by André I've never heard the coveted 33's, my experince is limited to 66, 44, 11, 15XR, UL8. I'm only taking this piss André, it's genuinely good to see you on here again (if indeed you are still on here?) HiFi forums just aren't the same without you, but you'll always be "The Barbarian" to me.

[Marco]

@Marco - That's Rudolph Hucker? He looks like such a nice old man, not the twisted, arrogant, narcissistic lady part that pollutes our little community. Appearances certainly can be deceiving.


Lol!:lol:

He's only a year older than me!!:eek:

Well, it's often the case that the most (superficially) innocuous, snivelling looking old weasels, are the biggest keyboard warriors! Not just because they're cowardly and so love to hide behind said keyboards (which is why I've taken such delight in 'exposing' this particular weasel:eyebrows:), but because they've got more hangups/emotional disorders and chips on their shoulders than Captain Charlie the Chipmeister from Chipville!

Anyway, you have a PM!:D

Marco.

[DarrenHW]

Well it's good to see I haven't lost my ability to kill a thread :scratch:

Have you flounced off again André? (I hope the answer is no!)



He's only a year older than me!!:eek:



You're doing a better job of rolling with it, I thought your avatar was Louis Walsh, that's the only reason I read your sig!


Sorry for thread drift Ben.

[HD Goofnut]

No problem :)

I have tried sending you a PM Darren but your inbox is full. Could you clear a little space please, thanks.

[Made in 1968]

Flaming hell Ben your hard work mate

:lol: Ive already sent you a shopping list. Seems that people are just making thing a bit too confusing when its a dead easy job.

[HD Goofnut]

Shopping list received, much appreciated thank you.

I wanted to chat with Darren about his Quad 405 mono block.

[DarrenHW]

Hi Ben,

I don't know if you've seen Ken's website so here are some links:

http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/

http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/66_HTML/66_Thumbs.html

http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/66/66_XOver.pdf

The last link has a parts list and a very nice diagram.


Here is a link, to our own "Knowledge Cafe" for the Ditton 44 circuit diagram and parts list:

https://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?34519-Celestion-44-Cross-Over-Information


You'll see there are some differences.

Tweeter (Ditton 44 - C1, C2, C3, C4 / Ken's 66 - C5, C6), disregard the 44 circuit and follow Ken's work. It's only a matter of getting the correct value e.g. Ditton 44 C1 + C2 (4.7 + 1.5 = 6.2) Ken's 66 C6 = 6.2. Ken's approach is arguably better and it's definitely cheaper.

Midrange The only difference here is a change in value (Ditton 44 - C5 = 6 / Ken's 66 C3 = 4) for this, stick with the Ditton 44 https://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/alcap-claritycap-solen-audio-capacitors/alcap-6-00uf-100v-dc-high-power-electrolytic-capacitor-nonpolarised-reversible-series.html


Other than that, follow Ken's work, that's all I did!

As for Quad 405's. If you click the link in my signature it will take you to my Gallery. On the first page there's a link to what I did with them, best of all the photo's were uploaded here, not PhotoFuckIt so they're still visible! Other than that I can't be of any more help I'm afraid, read through the thread and you'll soon realise I'm not even at novice level :doh:

I do hope this gives you the information and confidence to get this started, if not just keep asking questions till you get it :)

[HD Goofnut]

Apologies for the late reply. I hadn't seen Ken's website, thank you for the links. Really good read.


Tweeter (Ditton 44 - C1, C2, C3, C4 / Ken's 66 - C5, C6), disregard the 44 circuit and follow Ken's work. It's only a matter of getting the correct value e.g. Ditton 44 C1 + C2 (4.7 + 1.5 = 6.2) Ken's 66 C6 = 6.2. Ken's approach is arguably better and it's definitely cheaper.

Midrange The only difference here is a change in value (Ditton 44 - C5 = 6 / Ken's 66 C3 = 4) for this, stick with the Ditton 44 https://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/alcap-claritycap-solen-audio-capacitors/alcap-6-00uf-100v-dc-high-power-electrolytic-capacitor-nonpolarised-reversible-series.html

In all honesty that makes absolutely no sense to me at all :doh: Any chance of really boiling that down to basics? Is that what you follow if putting the 66 mids into the 44's as you have done?

I have been given this list for the 44's which I will post up below for future searches.

Alcap;

4x72uF/100v*
2x30uF/100V*
2x6uF/50v*

Ansar:

2x3.9uF*
2x6.8uF*

[Made in 1968]

The only reason the top two are 100V is they dont do em in 50V..