Removing sticky tape residue from turntable in storage for a while

[ost_]

Dear all

I've been absent for a while; the birth of my daughter got in the way of music. However, she is now 5 and I'm at the point where I'm ready to set my system up again.

So, in my wisdom, prior to moving house and shortly after aforementioned arrival of child, I used copious amounts of masking tape to secure my tonearm in place and also the little plastic cover to protect my cartridge.

As such, after 5 years in storage, my turntable will (hopefully) shortly be back in business, however after removing the masking tape there is a lot of sticky residue on the tonearm and sides of the body of the cartridge. This is where I would be very grateful for any advice.

I presumably need some kind of very gentle solvent to remove the residue from the tonearm, but I am acutely aware that anything too strong could ruin the outer coating finish of said tonearm. I've googled extensively for 'gentle solvents' but nothing so far is filling me with confidence. The arm is a SME IV if that helps narrow down the options.

Thanks in advance for any knowledge/assistance.

[Made in 1968]

If its still sticky adhesive & not gone hard WD40..

[struth]

yup,wd or even a little parrafin may do job without hurting finish

[walpurgis]

I use furniture spray polish. Squirt a bit on and leave it for an hour, the tape residue starts coming off then. You may need to do this a couple of times, but it's a safe method.

[AJSki2fly]

If its still sticky adhesive & not gone hard WD40..

Be very careful with WD40 it is actually hydroscopic, which believe it or not absorbs water over time and will then cause rust, not good for any bearings. I know this from many years experience of working on old cars. If you want a safe product that is a lubricant then it is ACF50, completely hydrophobic.

Olbas Oil or Eucalyptus oil is good for breaking down glue, or you could try a small amount of lighter fuel, but try these on a hidden part of the arm especially if a black painted one.

[Chas B]

Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) works well and won't damage anything. It's used in record cleaning fluids so any you have left over will be very handy!

[Mike Reed]

Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) works well and won't damage anything. It's used in record cleaning fluids so any you have left over will be very handy!

Seconded. Use it for everything, including my RCM (but separately ! :lol:) Cotton buds make for more delicate and accurate cleaning with it, but IPA (a.k.a. isopropanol) is the stuff.

[Made in 1968]

Be very careful with WD40 it is actually hydroscopic, which believe it or not absorbs water over time and will then cause rust, not good for any bearings. I know this from many years experience of working on old cars. If you want a safe product that is a lubricant then it is ACF50, completely hydrophobic.

Olbas Oil or Eucalyptus oil is good for breaking down glue, or you could try a small amount of lighter fuel, but try these on a hidden part of the arm especially if a black painted one.

I wasnt intending any bearing work just a paint finish. The sticky will come straight off anyway so will be on there and off before you know it.. Switch contact spray should work the same..

[bosa]

I use a spray electrical cleaner on any sticky residue which works well. Put it on lint free cloth or cotton bud first rather than spraying directly on.

[AJSki2fly]

I wasnt intending any bearing work just a paint finish. The sticky will come straight off anyway so will be on there and off before you know it.. Switch contact spray should work the same..

I was just trying to be helpful, all light cleaning fluids will easily run and spread everywhere, and you would not want it getting near the bearings.

[Made in 1968]

I know but at the end of the day [I hate that term] If hes had masking tape on for five years, no way on earth will the adhesive backing still be soft.

[ost_]

Thank you all. The silver finish of the SME IV is not robust to say the least, also the residue is still very sticky due to the heat and humidity in the room it's been stored in (see my location). I'll try a little isopropyl alcohol on a cotton bud first and let you know. Thanks again to all, your input is very much appreciated.

[JohnG]

I use Citrus Spray Adhesive Remover on High Quality Architectural Finished materials, ranging from Stainless Stainless to Anodised, Powder Coating and Coated Glass.
It is the go to product when it comes to Sun Baked Adhesive Residuals, and any condition that is lesser.
With something like a Tonearm, I would work on a few more applications than a extra amount of physical work to remove the dissolving glue.
If you go this way and use a aerosol, spray the substance into the lid, and apply with a small brush, this will keep the applications local and controlled.

Just recently we were using Screwfix Sticky Stuff Remover, there was no change in performance, it is not a aerosol, so a lot more is supplied in a bottle.
As always make sure you satisfy yourself by carrying out a trial in a discreet part of the Tonearm, before you give the whole area the treatment.

On a side note, look after the SME IV , I've seen a ascending price creep on a recent watched sale, than the usual used sale price, following the recent heavily debated threads across the forums on SME's changed marketing strategy.
I've decided to sit on my one for longer as a result.

[HD Goofnut]

Sticky stuff remover works really well, won't damage or remove anything other than the old residue and will leave it smelling of oranges.

[Lurch]

Best thing I've found for removing most stuff from most things is Lighter Fluid as used in zippo lighters.
Is great for glues and cooking/engine oil or greasy marks on clothes and as it evaporates it leaves no residue.

[Mike Reed]

Sticky stuff remover works really well, won't damage or remove anything other than the old residue and will leave it smelling of oranges.

Avoid navels.

[mbic]

This is what I use, completely safe and very good https://www.lakeland.co.uk/8976/Sticky-Stuff-Glue-Residue-and-Oil-Remover-250ml

[bob4333]

Some good suggestions here. Lighter fluid especially if you can keep it away from plastics. IPA also works.

Surprised no one's mentioned Methylated Spirits. Less aggressive.

[ost_]

Thanks again for the suggestions everyone. Bob, does IPA refer to pale ale? :lol:

[bob4333]

One you can drink, the other...... best not. :eek:

[Doctor Fuse]

Next time you make a batch of biodiesel in your garage, use some of the drained off glycerin soap, it will take it off. :eyebrows: