SL1210 isolation base

[diviy]

Any thought on this idea for a isolation base
40mm solid oak then I am going to cut a same size sheet of mdf and sandwich 4mm of neoprean between the both of them.

Cheers Gerry

[walpurgis]

How will you join the layers together? Neoprene is tricky to bond, many adhesive may prove unsatisfactory. If you bolt through to join the top and bottom boards you short circuit any presumed isolation benefits.

[Hibster_2000]

Why not just use some sprung feet on the oak? Or even the magnetic ones?

[diviy]

Why not just use some sprung feet on the oak?

What sort of spring would do the job


How will you join the layers together? Neoprene is tricky to bond

I was thinking of using a hi-temp spray contact adhesive that I used to use when help mates build there campers

[Hibster_2000]

Depends on the weight, but there are a range of feet available, from the cheap nobsound ones through to Funk Firm and Townsend.
Alternatively, fit some isolation feet on the 1210, and spike the isolation board?

[losepete]

Hi

Or you could consider using an Aptitlig chopping board from Ikea https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/search/products/?q=Aptitlig

You may want to read this review http://www.theaudiobeat.com/blog/ikea_aptitlig.htm

Yes, I bought the Butchers block myself to try with my AudioTech tt wall mount and LP12 - delivers a much more precise sound than the medite shelf that came with the AudioTech, well worth the limited investment.

[Ianmac]

I made my own base.
I worked on the principal that I was trying to isolate the techie from upward vibration from my floor ( T&G wood ) and the aim was to absorb the energy in these unwanted vibrations from reaching the techie.
My solution was simple but has proved to be very effective.
I made a wooded box 18 *15*4 " with a screw on lid. The base was drilled with feet mounting holes on the same centres as the techie. Feet were made from suitable tube cut to length and fitted with half a squash ball filled with self hardening silicone and bolted onto the base. Pointed metal feet were my preference but the weight of the total system meant the points would sink into a supporting surface defeating the theory of point contact by increasing the contact area.

With the lid off the box fill it wth some concrete or postcrete. Level it off and replace the lid. Sit the box on its side to ensure the concrete makes full contact between the base and lid. A clamp between base and lid should be used to avoid any bellying. Postcrete dries quickly.
Finish the box wood surface to suit.
Sit the techie on top using the standard feet which will also provide level adjust

There is obviously plenty of room for tweaks to the above probably with the feet between the box base and support depending on what one can find as feet

My Concrete base sits on top of my equipment rack

[diviy]

Cheers Ian the oak I am having is stunning how heavy is the base you made ? Glad to see you back on the forum and hope you are better .

Ps before you where taken ill we where trying to sort out a oil reservoir for the bearing I had off you if you are not well enough to sort it any chance you could pm the size so I can get one made ?

Regards Gerry

[Ianmac]

Ill get back via PM soonest
Ian

[Wakefield Turntables]

Oak has a poor damping factor, typically, 0.1 whilst Bamboo is better as 0.22. Permali/Panzerholz has a damping factor of 0.8

[losepete]

Pardon my ignorance but what is Permali/Panzerholz and where does 1 find it?

[struth]

Panzerholz is very dense hard wood. Expensive and hard to work

[Wakefield Turntables]

It's actually not that bad to work with Grant. I notice you've got some decent wood working kit on your making a hifi stand thread. You'd easily be able to cut Panzerholz with a decent bandsaw, router etc.

[losepete]

Thanks for the explanation guys.

I think I'll probably stick with my cheap Aptitlig solution for the moment :-)