View Full Version : De Coupled/ Digital Hi Level Cable For A REL Quake.
icehockeyboy
29-11-2019, 19:46
Further to my earlier posts re the sub problem that I have, sadly , despite REL making me a digital hi level cable a long time back, I can’t find it, so,
I need one making up.
I emailed Sounds Heavenly in Melton Mowbray , but I have yet to receive a reply ��.
As you May have read previously, I left off the black wire when connecting from my amp to the sub, but got nothing but a hum, I earthed it to the amp chassis, hum went, but no audio at all.
When connecting from the terminals of the amp to the PC input of the sub, it worked, but folk here warned me that was not the way to do it.
Many further calls to REL put me onto Heavenly Sounds, but no reply yet, so just wondering if anyone here could make a cable up?
Many thanks.
Stryder5
29-11-2019, 21:20
I don't understand what a "digital " high level cable is?
I havn't read your previous post on this issue, but assume you are connecting to an integrated amp?
You may be referring to the high level Speakon connector that has 3 wires, yellow, red and black.
Yellow goes to LH positive speaker terminal, black goes to LH negative speaker connection and red to RH positive speaker terminal. You will not get sound if you connect black to amplifier chassis.
This is a standard Speakon connector cable, nothing special or "digital".
Your LH and RH speakers are connected as normal.
Perhaps I misunderstood your problem?
Gary
Lawrence001
29-11-2019, 22:54
Further to my earlier posts re the sub problem that I have, sadly , despite REL making me a digital hi level cable a long time back, I can’t find it, so,
I need one making up.
I emailed Sounds Heavenly in Melton Mowbray , but I have yet to receive a reply ��.
As you May have read previously, I left off the black wire when connecting from my amp to the sub, but got nothing but a hum, I earthed it to the amp chassis, hum went, but no audio at all.
When connecting from the terminals of the amp to the PC input of the sub, it worked, but folk here warned me that was not the way to do it.
Many further calls to REL put me onto Heavenly Sounds, but no reply yet, so just wondering if anyone here could make a cable up?
Many thanks.I had one made last year for a project that I never saw through, it was designed for my Rel Quake using the speaker outs of my amp. I think it's stereo banana plugs to speakon. Shall I dig it out?
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icehockeyboy
29-11-2019, 23:57
To answer you both, my amp is digital, so, according to knowledgeable folk on here, and REL themselves, the black lead should not be connected, but, all I got was hum, until I put it to ground on the chassis of the amp, but no audio output whatsoever.
REL had previously made me up a lead for my Lyngdorf digital amp, but I can’t find it, hence my request, as instructed by Ben at REL, to obtain what I originally put, De- coupled, or digital. His words.
Lawrence001
30-11-2019, 00:08
I remember now I had one made to the standard Rel high level connection spec but you can leave the black disconnected as in this link. Or alternatively just cut it off but you might want to keep it for the chassis ground option. I was going to use a class d amp but it never went ahead.
https://rel.net/how-to-connect-a-rel-to-a-class-d-amp/
Let me know if you want me to get it out.
Stryder5
30-11-2019, 09:52
To answer you both, my amp is digital, so, according to knowledgeable folk on here, and REL themselves, the black lead should not be connected, but, all I got was hum, until I put it to ground on the chassis of the amp, but no audio output whatsoever.
REL had previously made me up a lead for my Lyngdorf digital amp, but I can’t find it, hence my request, as instructed by Ben at REL, to obtain what I originally put, De- coupled, or digital. His words.
Just me being dumb then, didn’t realize that there was an issue with D amps.
I’ll shut up till I know what I’m talking about!
Gary
Firebottle
30-11-2019, 10:18
Some class D amps have an 'offset' voltage on both red and black output terminals.
I have measured +12V on both terminals of certain class D amps. Most if not all use the bridge tied load (BTL) output scheme where both output terminals are driven.
You must not earth either output on class D.
icehockeyboy
30-11-2019, 10:42
I remember now I had one made to the standard Rel high level connection spec but you can leave the black disconnected as in this link. Or alternatively just cut it off but you might want to keep it for the chassis ground option. I was going to use a class d amp but it never went ahead.
https://rel.net/how-to-connect-a-rel-to-a-class-d-amp/
Let me know if you want me to get it out.
Sorry to be a pain, but any chance of a photograph of the cable please?
Lawrence001
30-11-2019, 10:56
Sorry to be a pain, but any chance of a photograph of the cable please?Of course I'll try and do it tonight when I get home
icehockeyboy
30-11-2019, 14:31
Thanks!
Lawrence001
01-12-2019, 17:49
Here it is, 3m long in Kelsey tour apparently. Neutrik speakon and Nakamichi bananas. I asked for the 4th cable to be connected to ground too but you don't need to use that, or either.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191201/f2654da3537c5c5ffe2c37b152cd6b50.jpg
icehockeyboy
02-12-2019, 18:26
Hi Lawrence, as it looks physically the same as a regular sub lead, albeit with a fourth cable, can I ask what makes it a De coupled/ digital one?
Lawrence001
03-12-2019, 02:43
Did you read the instructions above from Rel? They say use this type and don't connect the black lead, cut it off if you never want it. I had this made to the spec in those instructions except I said leave the 4th cable connected too, as cutting off one or two (or leaving then disconnected) didn't make any difference to me.
I'm not sure what the digital cable you mention would look like, unless it's just cutting the black leads off this?
icehockeyboy
03-12-2019, 10:23
The one they made me had a bulge in it, what it was I don’t know.
I connected my original lead exactly the way REL and others advised, but, as I said previously only resulted in a hum, until I put the black wire to earth on the amp chassis, but then I didn’t get any audio output at all.
I have no idea how yours differs from a standard one, but how much would you want for it?
Lawrence001
03-12-2019, 10:27
I think I paid about £25 for it so say £15 plus postage, hopefully a small packet <2kg.
I'm not sure it can do anything yours doesn't though. Maybe if you put a pic of yours up I can tell.
icehockeyboy
03-12-2019, 11:26
Mine looks just the same as yours, but 3 not 4 cables.
Just spoke to a mate at Sevenoaks who says he can’t see any reason that I shouldn’t use the 3.5 mm input into the Quake, with the other end, being left and right channel cables, from the amps speaker terminals, or amps terminals.
Any thoughts on that Lawrence?
icehockeyboy
03-12-2019, 12:13
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191203/3b56d176a27c7bbc38fcce000e5347de.jpg
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Lawrence001
04-12-2019, 01:10
Mine looks just the same as yours, but 3 not 4 cables.
Just spoke to a mate at Sevenoaks who says he can’t see any reason that I shouldn’t use the 3.5 mm input into the Quake, with the other end, being left and right channel cables, from the amps speaker terminals, or amps terminals.
Any thoughts on that Lawrence?The 3.5mm input is low level so you risk damaging the sub by putting in a high level signal. Also if the two speaker grounds are joined to a single ground at the input then you risk blowing the class D amp. This is about the worst advice I think you could take!!
Lawrence001
04-12-2019, 01:13
Have you tried the advice from Rel about connecting the LFE input (set to zero volume) to an unused output on the pre?
icehockeyboy
04-12-2019, 07:58
Have you tried the advice from Rel about connecting the LFE input (set to zero volume) to an unused output on the pre?
It’s an integrated amp
Only a single pair of phono inputs
Lawrence001
06-12-2019, 09:57
It’s an integrated amp
Only a single pair of phono inputsWhat amp is it? Might help diagnose the issue.
icehockeyboy
06-12-2019, 11:31
It’s ok Lawrence, it’s been pointed out to me what I need to make it work, it’s a small box of tricks that does high to low switching.
icehockeyboy
06-12-2019, 14:36
All sorted now, thanks for your input.
Lawrence001
06-12-2019, 14:48
It’s ok Lawrence, it’s been pointed out to me what I need to make it work, it’s a small box of tricks that does high to low switching.Can you explain for future reference please?
icehockeyboy
06-12-2019, 15:09
Check your PM
icehockeyboy
10-12-2019, 12:40
So, the REL Quake is in use again, I am genuinely astonished at how great this little Panasonic micro system is sounding!
I know people say aural memory is iffy, but I’d say it equals one of my previous systems that cost at least £4 grand, possibly more, for a fraction of the cost.
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