Separate power for audio system

[Sansiiro]

Hello!

I am trying lots of ways to try and improve the sound on my system.
Just this week I connected new speaker cables, but lets not stop there.

There has been much recommendations not to use same power-wire in your
house for audio system and other things. You should use one wire for your audio
system only - in another words, you must set up a dedicated power-wire for your audio
system from your switchboard. That is what I am about!

Today I visited hardware store for a little peek. I need about 6-7 meters of wire.
There are 2 types - one consists of fibers and another is uniform.
Can you recommend one over the other?

Will 2,5 mm2 (13 gauge) be enough for amp and dac?
(I realize that "bigger is better" but that's what's mainly used in my house
for everything else, and that's also of how big a hole I need to make in my wall,
and I live in cold climate).

What is the best way to shield this wire?
(since it starts from the switchboard, it runs a few good meters alongside
other wires, perhaps I should use a metal tube for this one).





all the best and let's keep improving!
Veiko

[Gaz]

2.5mm is fine, the electricity has no idea if it's going to a hifi or a fridgefreezer, it's the same electricity.

Once it arrives at the amp it's voltage is changed and its converted from AC to DC anyway so anything done to the electricity prior to the transformer is undone anyway. Having said that lots of people believe it makes a difference to their sound quality so all you've got to lose is a few quids worth of cable and a double socket, give it a go

[Sherwood]

Connections to the distribution box should always be done by a qualified electrician. Your electrician will advise on the regulations pertaining to spur connections.

[Gaz]

Good point.

Luckily I still have a drum of the old coloured cable so any electrical work appears to have been done pre Part P;)

[Barry]

I have had a dedicated ring-main installed to supply all the components in my audio system. The ring consists of 16 sockets: enough to supply my electrostatic speakers; monoblock power amps; phonostage; preamps; turntable(s); CD player; DACs; tuner, as well as having some sockets spare for ancillary and occasionally used items such as tape decks.

The work was undertaken by a professional electrician, using MK sockets wired with 2.5mm2 T&E cable to a Häger 32A RCBO, directly connected to the meter via a 'Henley block'. (i.e. completely separate from the consumer unit supplying the rest of the house.)

[Sansiiro]

I already have contacted the electrician.
So You do not need to worry about me killing myself or burning down the house :)

However he is no audiophile, and will not advise me from that perspective.
Hence the questions.

Gary you seem not to believe in the necessity of this.
I myself started using a powerbank for my chromecast audio streamer
and heard the differences comparing it to wall outlet.
Now I have iFi adapter, but similar device for amp and a "real" DAC
probably cost a lot more, than an extra wire.

Gary, I must respect your point of view, but they do make them power conditioners
or whatever they are for audio systems and they sell them and people like them.
Surely the quality of the power signal must mean something even prior the amp.

When I was a young boy, running around in the country, whenever my grandfather
used this big electrical pump (for some reason) the air was filled with much noise and
picture in my grandmothers TV would turn to blur.

Thanks to all for the input, I hope people have yet more to add!

Veiko

[Gaz]

I already have contacted the electrician.
So You do not need to worry about me killing myself or burning down the house :)


As long as you connect the coloured wires correctly what can go wrong? Lol

I'm joking of course.

[spendorman]

Good point.

Luckily I still have a drum of the old coloured cable so any electrical work appears to have been done pre Part P;)


Me too, bought 100m of the old 2.5 sq mm cable. Although not a qualified Electrician electrician, I reckon that I am a least competent, having been a qualified Electronic Engineer. I re-wired the whole house years prior to Part P with no problems.

At that time ring mains (now called ring final circuit) were popular. The house is a small semi with a through lounge. I made a ring for upstairs, a ring that covered the hall and through lounge, and a separate ring for the small kitchen. The idea was that the Hi Fi in the though lounge was separate from the kitchen, where boiler, fridge, washing machine etc. would be connected.

I believe that this was probably over the top, good Hi Fi will generally be pretty well immune to interference. Certainly, I have found that Quad stuff is.

[Barry]

Me too, bought 100m of the old 2.5 sq mm cable. Although not a qualified Electrician electrician, I reckon that I am a least competent, having been a qualified Electronic Engineer. I re-wired the whole house years prior to Part P with no problems.

At that time ring mains (now called ring final circuit) were popular. The house is a small semi with a through lounge. I made a ring for upstairs, a ring that covered the hall and through lounge, and a separate ring for the small kitchen. The idea was that the Hi Fi in the though lounge was separate from the kitchen, where boiler, fridge, washing machine etc. would be connected.

I believe that this was probably over the top, good Hi Fi will generally be pretty well immune to interference. Certainly, I have found that Quad stuff is.

I could have done the rewiring myself, as I extensively rewired my parents house and changed a motley collection of fuse boxes for a modern consumer unit fitted with MCBs. But I was lazy, didn't have enough of the 2.5mm cable conforming to the old (and sensible) colour code, so employed a qualified electrician to do all the hard work for me (such as lifting floor boards etc.) as well as providing a certificate of the work done for insurance purposes. I did however specify the type and make of sockets to be fitted as well as that of the separate MCBO.

As the work was being done, I took advantage of the lifted floorboards to lay down balanced line interconnects and other audio cables between the preamp and monoblock power amps located directly behind each speaker, thus avoiding unsightly cables running around the skirting boards.

[Gaz]

I'm in no way belittling electricians but it's not rocket science connecting the correct coloured wires together in the proper manner (junction box or socket)

[Pharos]

I'm sure there are very good electricians available, but in my experience of both they, and also plumbers, whilst they may have the requisite legal qualifications, often lack conscientiousness in their work, and are slovenly.

When I rebuilt my extension I rewired the whole thing, both lighting and power, and several people said that it was the best wiring they had ever seen, and this also applied recently to a replacement boiler in which the inspectors praised my pipe-work, much 'cleaner' than theirs.

Provided the simple electrical, and safety rules are adhered to, it is not difficult.

When old wire is referred to are we talking about the pre '70 red, black, and green, which I found so much more sensible than the brown, blue, and green/yellow?

[Barry]

I'm sure there are very good electricians available, but in my experience of both they, and also plumbers, whilst they may have the requisite legal qualifications, often lack conscientiousness in their work, and are slovenly.

When I rebuilt my extension I rewired the whole thing, both lighting and power, and several people said that it was the best wiring they had ever seen, and this also applied recently to a replacement boiler in which the inspectors praised my pipe-work, much 'cleaner' than theirs.

Provided the simple electrical, and safety rules are adhered to, it is not difficult.

When old wire is referred to are we talking about the pre '70 red, black, and green, which I found so much more sensible than the brown, blue, and green/yellow?

Yes, we are referring to twin and earth cable used for permenant wiring, for which the insulation of the phase and return are coloured brown and blue respectively. The earth continuity conductor is uninsulated.

[Slawts]

I had my room rewired with 4mm t&a and on a separate ring. I think the wire is Pirelli.

I don't know if it is better than 2.5mm but it does the job.

I did have most of the components plugged in to the wall on switchless MK sockets but there was a slight hum coming from the amps through the speakers I now have all plugged in to a Russ Andrews 8 socket board and then in to the wall. Dynamics are better and hum gone.

[Gaz]

I keep thinking I've heard it all but now one person has mentioned the brand of mains wiring and two the brand of sockets.

I hope Pirelli wire is better than their tyres. Lol

[Sansiiro]

Yeah.
Luckily the electrician did not find me mental, but said he has heard of suggestions like this.
He believes 2,5 mm2 is good and that additional shielding has no point.
However my concern about copper with or without fibers is yet unaddressed.
Also asked about it from hardware store, but they had no idea.
So I guess it does not matter, and I will buy solid, since it is easier to push through
the wall, which in that case is about 50 cm thick (including insulation).

I think I will use Furukawa wire and Schneider sockets :eyebrows:

[Barry]

I mentioned the brand of socket (MK), not because I believe they sound any better, they don't, but because they are very well made and an obvious choice given the plethora of cheap Chinese made sockets available on the market. I would be equally happy to use Crabtree fittings, and as an aside, I actually prefer their 13A plugs to those of MK.

Likewise the choice of circuit breaker is important - only use those made by a well known and reputable manufacturer.


Schneider make very good electrical fittings: I specified their use (both sockets and circuit breakers) for our house in Africa, where they use European Schuko style sockets.