PDA

View Full Version : Analogue frontend options -- where to go from here...



Shovel_Knight
29-04-2019, 14:22
I would like to ask for some advice regarding my analogue front end.

At the moment I have two fully functional turntables (Dual 1019 and Technics SL-110), the remnants of my Lenco (which I'm going to get rid of very soon) and an upcoming Technics SP10 mk2 project.

I also have the following tonearms:

- Audio-Technica AT1503 mk2 which was fully fettled a couple of years ago and had a Jelco arm lifter installed.
- Fidelity Research FR-54 in very good condition. I got it only with the stock 125g counterweight but later had a heavier 187g counterweight made to enable me to use it with heavier cartridges.
- Audio-Technica AT1100 which I bought specifically to experiment with high compliance stuff, only to discover that the vast majority of modern cartridges don't play well with a 6g tonearm :lol: The arm itself is a masterpiece though and ridiculously well made.

The SL-110 is my main turntable at the moment, currently I'm using it with AT1503 tonearm and Shure SC35C cart. The Dual is mostly used when we have guests because its automatic functions are quite handy.

Ideally I would like to consolidate my possessions and get down to just one turntable and one tonearm. Okay, maybe one turntable and two tonearms.

My current thinking is that SP10mk2 -- when it's ready -- will be my one and only turntable. What about the tonearms though?

The AT1503 is probably too heavy (22g effective mass as far as I remember) and AT1100 is way too light (6g effective mass). FR54 is 16g with its stock headshell and can be made both lighter and heavier using different headshells and counterweights. I tested FR54 against my AT1503 and when FR54 is equipped with a heavy headshell and counterweight there is very little between them in terms of sound, both seem to be very similar with the AT1503 having maybe a very slight edge. So I'm inclined to keep the FR54 and ditch the other two arms, ideally I would want to get a Chinese sliding base for it in case I ever want to use it with an SPU.

Now AT1100 is heads and shoulders ahead of both AT1503 and FR54 in terms of perceived build quality, it's the loveliest piece of equipment I have ever held in my hands... If I could find the S-shaped wand for it (which brings the effective mass up to 13g), it would be the last tonearm I ever need. But they're as rare as hen's teeth: I've been watching eBay for over a year and never saw one pop up, even in Japan. But maybe I will keep it as well just to see if I can find the S-shaped wand and its matching counterweight in the future. And by the way, somebody suggested to me that even with the straight wand this arm should be great with older, hither compliance MC cartridges, such as AT-OC9ML/ii or Denon DL301-ii which is still available from Japan new.

Cartridges: currently I have a sizeable collection of MM cartridges from ultra low compliance (Shure SC35C) to ultra high compliance (Ortofon VMS20), but willing to upgrade to a reasonably priced MC (up to 500 euros). I think sticking with the FR54 would allow me to enjoy the widest range of cartridges both now or in the future.

The rest of my system at the moment:

Main system:
Speakers: Usher S-520 (bloody brilliant, incredible sound for something that small)
Amp: Meridian 551 (a very polite amp that can flex its muscles when needed; I'm mostly sticking with it for level matching across various inputs)
Phono stage: DIY CNC phono stage (MM) / ANT Audio Kora 3T SE with upgraded PSU (MC)
Cables: Black Rhodium Twist speaker cables, various interconnects (mostly VdH)

Headphone section:
Phones: upgraded Hifiman HE-400s (open-back) / modded Fostex T50RP mk3 (semi-open)
Amp: DIY high-current headphone amplifier with ultra low-noise PSU

Basically I'm looking either for confirmation that my current thinking is correct or for some new ideas (e.g.: "Sell everything and get a new 10-inch Jelco!") :D

Bigman80
29-04-2019, 14:54
You need to talk to Phonomac of this forum.

I have a SP10MK2 and one of his modified AT1010 MK6 tonearms.

Its a match made in heaven and the best part is, he can hook you up with an sp10 and an arm ready to go.

He's a top guy to deal with too.

A picture of mine in a Panzerholtz plinth with Tenuto platter Mathttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190429/e6a735de28b99191c1a893f3f45cd9b1.jpg

Shovel_Knight
29-04-2019, 14:57
Thank you for your suggestion Oliver, guess who's helping me with my SP10mk2 project... :)

Bigman80
29-04-2019, 15:23
Thank you for your suggestion Oliver, guess who's helping me with my SP10mk2 project... :)[emoji23][emoji23]

Couldn't make it up.

I would highly recommend taking the AT1010 arm along with it. Its stunning.

Barry
29-04-2019, 15:49
Were it me, I would keep both the AT arms and ditch the FR. With the AT arms, using an aftermarket sliding arm bedplate, you have all cartridge options covered.

Shovel_Knight
29-04-2019, 16:07
Thanks for the suggestion! I have to check if both AT arms have the same pillar diameter...

Shovel_Knight
30-04-2019, 16:02
According to Angus, AT1503 pillar diameter is 17 mm and AT1100 pillar diameter is 20mm so definitely would have to order two sliders if I decide to follow this route. :scratch:

Bigman80
30-04-2019, 17:04
According to Angus, AT1503 pillar diameter is 17 mm and AT1100 pillar diameter is 20mm so definitely would have to order two sliders if I decide to follow this route. :scratch:I wouldn't have anything that slides on an tonearm base. Call me pesimistic but it's just not as optimal as a good solid bass.

struth
30-04-2019, 17:15
The sme 3009 does and it works well. It does make setting up a doddle.

Primalsea
30-04-2019, 17:55
Is there no way to add mass to an AT1100? Maybe something you can clip onto the arm tube or possibly slide 4 or 5 grams of solder and foam down inside the arm tube.

Just thinking out loud.

Shovel_Knight
30-04-2019, 18:00
Is there no way to add mass to an AT1100? Maybe something you can clip onto the arm tube or possibly slide 4 or 5 grams of solder and foam down inside the arm tube.

Just thinking out loud.

I'm afraid the stock counterweight won't balance the tonearm in this case. And anyway, I wouldn't want to molest such a lovely piece of gear...

I was told that while the S-shaped tubes are rare, the heavier counterweights for this tonearm are even more rare and basically never pop up on eBay.

struth
30-04-2019, 18:08
You might get a magnet to stick to the counterweight and increase it that way. This is what I have for the 3009 when using a heavy cart/headshells.
It's exact size so looks perfect
Think it was member Nuff who came up with idea (apologies if it wasn't)

Barry
30-04-2019, 20:16
I wouldn't have anything that slides on an tonearm base. Call me pesimistic but it's just not as optimal as a good solid bass.

I'd rather have a sliding bedplate than a slotted headshell. You can bolt down the SME bedplate far tighter than you can screws in a headshell,
.

Bigman80
30-04-2019, 20:35
I'd rather have a sliding bedplate than a slotted headshell. You can bolt down the SME bedplate far tighter than you can screws in a headshell,
.Each to their own.

phonomac
01-05-2019, 07:51
I'd rather have a sliding bedplate than a slotted headshell. You can bolt down the SME bedplate far tighter than you can screws in a headshell,
.

But then I don't use a slotted headshell either :eyebrows:

karma67
01-05-2019, 09:07
That makes3 of us! Lol

Shovel_Knight
01-05-2019, 12:03
I also prefer fixed-hole headshells such as AT-MG10 or AT-LT13

Nickfna
02-05-2019, 11:31
I also prefer fixed-hole headshells such as AT-MG10 or AT-LT13

Got to agree, since i started using a AT MS-9 on a PMat1010 setting up the cart is a doddle.:)