View Full Version : DCB1 TURBO BUILD @600Ma
Hi All
I'm in the middle of building my Dcb1turbo, I built my first earlier this year and had it finished by Alan ( Firebottle )
It turned out to be a very good preamp indeed, I then sold this project to Macca on this forum only because Id like to push my next
build and make a few changes, these will be listed along with pictures as i progress with the build.
The Kit used
Bare DCB1 turbo board by Salas rev 3.3 imported from America.
1 X Build kit to start the project
Elma 2 pole 6 way selector switch
Khozmo 50k series attenuator
Audio Note Tantalum resistors
Nichicon caps and Dale 1% resistors throughout the build
Khozmo Attenuator
http://i63.tinypic.com/2mc826t.jpg
The Kit
http://i63.tinypic.com/2w1xq89.jpg
The Hypnotize turbo board
http://i67.tinypic.com/20jfedh.jpg
Board Partially stuffed
http://i65.tinypic.com/2zpv6o1.jpg
Almost complete. Im still unsure if I will run this board at 600Ma or 1.2A so have left the 2x47ohm resistors un -fitted
along with the Fets. At 600Ma the Aluminium base will be the heatsink but at over an amp will need some serious cooling.
http://i67.tinypic.com/xfp4rn.jpg
Notice the 8 resistors around the relay, they have now been changed to Audio Note Tantalum.
http://i65.tinypic.com/f4puv5.jpg
Will update the post as i progress with the build.
The Aluminium Case arrives tomorrow along with some huge heatsinks
then i can start putting my preamp together.
Hi Oliver
Feel free to add to the post as I know your building a DCB! too.
Arriving today Full Aluminium Case
http://i63.tinypic.com/2nu7zia.jpg
http://i64.tinypic.com/1zr2tm0.jpg
Steve
Bigman80
14-11-2018, 19:16
Steve,
I'd love to have something to add!!!! All the chassis and ridings are just leaving China and the Toriody tx and Khozmo are winging their way to me as we speak.
I've managed to nearly finish the board but I've concentrated on finishing the Bigbottle.
Now that's done, I will finish the DCB1 board. I have a suspicion I can run this board at 1.2A with the chassis I bought. Gonna have to check kind you.
Anyway, a pic of my Hot Rod DCB1 board.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181114/e03d99ee1ce37118a4aca112a2717a3a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181114/1183c1ac5bc88ce75a02d64a6b14f58d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181114/87e23b5c101e657a5f1657b437d92251.jpg
Hi Oliver
Nice one , cant wait to get this thing up and running.
Case tomorrow along wiyh heatsinks. Still have no idea if Ill run it at 600Ma or 1.2 ???
Need to make my mind up soon.
S.
Bigman80
14-11-2018, 19:25
Hi Oliver
Nice one , cant wait to get this thing up and running.
Case tomorrow along wiyh heatsinks. Still have no idea if Ill run it at 600Ma or 1.2 ???
Need to make my mind up soon.
S.I'm missing mine badly. Have the Chinese relay volume control but it doesn't have the Organic ability of the DCB1.
The new one is going to be superb I'm sure. The level of components is as good as possible so I'm expecting big things.
I guess we will have to wait and see mate
S.
Popcorn bought. Watching with interest.
Looking forward to seeing this take shape Steve :)
Hi Keith
I'll have toffee popcorn please
Looking forward to seeing this take shape Steve :)
Hi John
I can't wait to get it put together
I've got no music at the mo, its killing me
S.
sq225917
14-11-2018, 21:13
Soldertastic boys
Bigman80
14-11-2018, 21:15
Soldertastic boysThe DIY bug has us both gripped!!!
ijrussell
14-11-2018, 23:50
If these are better than my non-turbo DCB1, thay are going to be very special indeed. Looking forward to a comparison sometime. :)
I heard the last build at Steve’s which sounded very good,the board looked very impressive with great attention to detail in the soldering. Well done mate!
Cheers Jamie
Looking forward to completing the project
I'll be very happy if there's an improvement in sound.
Oh, and keep working on those interconnects, they're sounding better every time i hear them.
3 pair please.
S.
If these are better than my non-turbo DCB1, thay are going to be very special indeed. Looking forward to a comparison sometime. :)
Hi Ian
I see your a DCB1 owner, had it long, build it yourself??
Is your b1 a mezmorize or hypnotize.
Whats your impression of the sound ??
S.
Bigman80
15-11-2018, 07:31
If these are better than my non-turbo DCB1, thay are going to be very special indeed. Looking forward to a comparison sometime. :)We can get a bakeoff done mate. It's just for fun. Not sure either of our builds will be as pretty as yours!
Cheers Jamie
Looking forward to completing the project
I'll be very happy if there's an improvement in sound.
Oh, and keep working on those interconnects, they're sounding better every time i hear them.
3 pair please.
S.
No worries Steve I’m glad you like them.
sq225917
15-11-2018, 08:37
The Turbo's are better than the DCB1, more driver and not suffering from the slightly soft bass that the B1 is famed for.
We can get a bakeoff done mate. It's just for fun. Not sure either of our builds will be as pretty as yours!
Hi Oliver
Id be up for that, where at???
S.
Bigman80
15-11-2018, 08:58
Hi Oliver
Id be up for that, where at???
S.Ian's in Coventry.
If these are better than my non-turbo DCB1, thay are going to be very special indeed. Looking forward to a comparison sometime. :)
Hi Ian, was your dcb1 the one at the bakeoff at Penkridge ??
If so, Fantastic build mate a real pro job
S.
Ian's in Coventry.
Where is that ???:lol:
Bigman80
15-11-2018, 09:05
Where is that ???[emoji38]Really? [emoji23]
About an hour away from me. Southern direction
ijrussell
15-11-2018, 10:13
Hi Ian, was your dcb1 the one at the bakeoff at Penkridge ??
If so, Fantastic build mate a real pro job
S.
Unfortunately I have two left feet when it comes to DIY stuff. A friend who has a CNC machine built it for me.
Bigman80
15-11-2018, 10:18
Unfortunately I have two left feet when it comes to DIY stuff. A friend who has a CNC machine built it for me.He did well, the finish is superb.
keith1962
19-11-2018, 10:34
So what makes a hot rod and how is a turbo different. I have a hypnotize dcb1 black pcb built by a guy on DIYAudio. I bought it off Tom. It has Riken Ohms in the 220k and 1 meg positions and the four 220r are Shinkoh. The .22uf caps are now Jupiter copper foil in paper and wax. I first checked with Salas who confirmed these are the most important areas to improve. The rest are Dale, prp and Elna.
It has a TKD 601 pot that I am going to change to a Khozmo of similar.
I will take some internal shots when I figure out how to post pics to this site.
Bigman80
19-11-2018, 12:08
So what makes a hot rod and how is a turbo different. I have a hypnotize dcb1 black pcb built by a guy on DIYAudio. I bought it off Tom. It has Riken Ohms in the 220k and 1 meg positions and the four 220r are Shinkoh. The .22uf caps are now Jupiter copper foil in paper and wax. I first checked with Salas who confirmed these are the most important areas to improve. The rest are Dale, prp and Elna.
It has a TKD 601 pot that I am going to change to a Khozmo of similar.
I will take some internal shots when I figure out how to post pics to this site.Hi Keith,
The "Hot-Rodding" is in direct relation to how much juice you can get through the board.
Level 1 is 60mA (standard build)
Level 2 is 200mA (Mur860 upgrade)
Level 3 is 600mA (Mur860, 2.7ohm resistor change, 14w heat dissipation necessary)
Level 4 is 2A (Mur860, resistor change. Heat dissipation by fans and heat sinks)
The difference in clarity between 60mA and 200mA was significant. I'm glad I got it done for the new owner of my old one.
New build will explore a 1.2A version. Heat dissipation will be done via the Aluminium chassis and possibly a couple of 1" fans or similar. If that's not possible it will be 600mA
Hi All,
Just a bit of an update to the build with a few pics.
Checking if the layout works !!!
http://i67.tinypic.com/51xdt4.jpg
Moved the fets off the board ( Firebottle ) suggestion to disperse heat through the
thick aluminum base and fit Khozmo Attenuator and Elma 6 way switch
http://i63.tinypic.com/11kio3b.jpg
Will run at 600mA to settle in then will try at 1.2A using the huge heat-sinks for comparison
http://i63.tinypic.com/2jub4.jpg
Inputs wired using Olivers (Bigman80) Spotfire cable
http://i65.tinypic.com/2s16psw.jpg
I hope to have this finished soon but will wait until my wrist feels better before wiring the power.
S.
Bigman80
23-11-2018, 13:28
Hi All,
Just a bit of an update to the build with a few pics.
Checking if the layout works !!!
http://i67.tinypic.com/51xdt4.jpg
Moved the fets off the board ( Firebottle ) suggestion to disperse heat through the
thick aluminum base and fit Khozmo Attenuator and Elma 6 way switch
http://i63.tinypic.com/11kio3b.jpg
Will run at 600mA to settle in then will try at 1.2A using the huge heat-sinks for comparison
http://i63.tinypic.com/2jub4.jpg
Inputs wired using Olivers (Bigman80) Spotfire cable
http://i65.tinypic.com/2s16psw.jpg
I hope to have this finished soon but will wait until my wrist feels better before wiring the power.
S.Looks tidy mate. Nice work.
Nice I've just been notified of a package winging its way to me from Mr Teabag :)
Planning to start it over xmas when I have some time off.
Bigman80
23-11-2018, 14:56
Nice I've just been notified of a package winging its way to me from Mr Teabag :)
Planning to start it over xmas when I have some time off.Excellent!!
sq225917
23-11-2018, 17:45
Looks tidy, super symmetrical
Cheers Simon
I like tidy
S.
Bigman80
23-11-2018, 19:34
Casework has arrived missing the front piece for the front panel FFS.
WAY too much room so I am going to put the Bigbottle phonostage in there too and remove a box from the setup. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181123/ce8a71f2cd753628477d667742f96b88.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181123/69ebb38401a9fa8512254637d8a167c0.jpg
Really nice case mate
Pity you now have to wait for the front cover..
At least you can start your build AND get the phono stage in one box
S...
Bigman80
23-11-2018, 20:12
Really nice case mate
Pity you now have to wait for the front cover..
At least you can start your build AND get the phono stage in one box
S...It's really nicely finished. Well pissed off about the front bit but like you say, won't stop the build.
It'll be nice to have everything in one box too. I'm committed to both bits, the DCB1 and the Bigbottle phonostage, so no reason not to combine them in the box.
Obviously, I have some future plans about phonostages but that shouldn't be a problem.
I should have planned better,
Id have liked to have the dcb1 and phono stage in one box
Perhaps I'll re fit in the future in a bling box...
S...
Bigman80
23-11-2018, 20:25
I should have planned better,
Id have liked to have the dcb1 and phono stage in one box
Perhaps I'll re fit in the future in a bling box...
S...Sell it for cost and build another [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]
Looking good fellas :popcorn:
Bigman80
23-11-2018, 21:45
Looking good fellas :popcorn: [emoji4]
Both new builds are looking very good.
Please can one of you kindly post the dimensions of the DCB1 PCB, as I want to make sure I leave enough space for it in the passive pre I am about to start constructing.
Thanks
Alan
Bigman80
24-11-2018, 20:14
Both new builds are looking very good.
Please can one of you kindly post the dimensions of the DCB1 PCB, as I want to make sure I leave enough space for it in the passive pre I am about to start constructing.
Thanks
Alan18x7cm.
Both new builds are looking very good.
Please can one of you kindly post the dimensions of the DCB1 PCB, as I want to make sure I leave enough space for it in the passive pre I am about to start constructing.
Thanks
Alan
Also remember to leave extra for heatsinks if required
S.
Bigman80
27-11-2018, 18:11
It's taken a while to get to the point of making a start on this build but it's started.
I had decided to go for an all in one box with the Bigbottle phonostage inside too but after getting a bit of information, this badboy is going to be a stand-alone unit running at 1.2mA!!
DIY brackets for the selector switch and Khozmo are super sturdy and far superior to the Chinese ones that came with the extension bars.
Flexible aluminium couplers for the switch and Khozmo make sense and look rather pretty once buffed up.
The bracket isn't quite at 90deg so needs a little manipulation but it should be fine when done.
More to come!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181127/1ee88734a96bf7e238ff79114d029735.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181127/0c4935434f0fe1a73c55c0c29106aabf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181127/9e87a2adf35766ca633b9f8bc9c08587.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181127/3337dbaf85168c2162055cb48523aa9e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181127/8b7cf8b3c25122165450d8ef30088bcb.jpg
What's the theory behind running it at higher current? Does it make it more linear or something? I don't really understand this stuff.
Bigman80
27-11-2018, 18:45
What's the theory behind running it at higher current? Does it make it more linear or something? I don't really understand this stuff.If I'm honest, I don't entirely get it either BUT over on DIYaudio they claim improved performance as the FETs are pushed to a higher level. I have no idea why but according to Alan, Steve's (@600mA) blew his mind today. I must go BIGGER
Stryder5
27-11-2018, 18:48
Are you going to buff up those manky looking brackets too?
:bag:
Gary
It's taken a while to get to the point of making a start on this build but it's started.
I had decided to go for an all in one box with the Bigbottle phonostage inside too but after getting a bit of information, this badboy is going to be a stand-alone unit running at 1.2mA!!
DIY brackets for the selector switch and Khozmo are super sturdy and far superior to the Chinese ones that came with the extension bars.
Flexible aluminium couplers for the switch and Khozmo make sense and look rather pretty once buffed up.
The bracket isn't quite at 90deg so needs a little manipulation but it should be fine when done.
More to come!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181127/1ee88734a96bf7e238ff79114d029735.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181127/0c4935434f0fe1a73c55c0c29106aabf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181127/9e87a2adf35766ca633b9f8bc9c08587.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181127/3337dbaf85168c2162055cb48523aa9e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181127/8b7cf8b3c25122165450d8ef30088bcb.jpg
Bigman80
27-11-2018, 18:48
Nope [emoji38][emoji38]
Hi all
My dcb1 turbo is complete
At the moment it's running a little over 750mA and sounds awesome.
I intend letting it have a little time to bed in then I'm gonna push it to 1.2A and see how it is for sound and how the temperature is before i go the whole hog and push 2A through the fets, with some serious cooling.
Will post pics tomorrow as I've not been back from Firebottles and just had to have a listen to how good it sounds.
S.
Bigman80
27-11-2018, 23:32
Hi all
My dcb1 turbo is complete
At the moment it's running a little over 750mA and sounds awesome.
I intend letting it have a little time to bed in then I'm gonna push it to 1.2A and see how it is for sound and how the temperature is before i go the whole hog and push 2A through the fets, with some serious cooling.
Will post pics tomorrow as I've not been back from Firebottles and just had to have a listen to how good it sounds.
S.Great stuff mate. Looking forward to the pics.
Cool case Oliver , reminds me of some of the Musical Fidelity stuff. Got a note from the PO yesterday think my boards have arrived :eek:
Bigman80
28-11-2018, 08:45
Cool case Oliver , reminds me of some of the Musical Fidelity stuff. Got a note from the PO yesterday think my boards have arrived :eek:Cheers Andy,
Yes it's a really nice case. Well made and Excellent finish.
Just having a little measure up to adjust the extension bars so the knobs fit perfectly. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181128/cf19b731b3340b332a2d692d3bc0f9aa.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181128/24a7ffc40664ca0d8a0e2e75ab7d42c8.jpg
Hi All
My dcb1 is now built
http://i63.tinypic.com/2rruwqs.jpg
http://i68.tinypic.com/v83sis.jpg
The Preamp is running at a little over750mA at the moment, once bedded in I will be pushing it to the 1.2A.
As for sound, there is quite an improvement over my previous build now with Macca, Oi mate (Martin) your gonna want yours pushing to 750mA to 1.2A
S..
ijrussell
28-11-2018, 14:49
Some great builds gents. I’m happy to run a bakeoff near Coventry if you’re interested in comparing them.
Bigman80
28-11-2018, 15:10
Some great builds gents. I’m happy to run a bakeoff near Coventry if you’re interested in comparing them.I'm up for it mate. Not sure when but I'm definitely up for it.
Bigman80
28-11-2018, 15:12
Hi All
My dcb1 is now built
http://i63.tinypic.com/2rruwqs.jpg
http://i68.tinypic.com/v83sis.jpg
The Preamp is running at a little over750mA at the moment, once bedded in I will be pushing it to the 1.2A.
As for sound, there is quite an improvement over my previous build now with Macca, Oi mate (Martin) your gonna want yours pushing to 750mA to 1.2A
S..Stevo, I love how tidy that is mate. Mine is going to look a little odd BUT I am odd so it suits lol. At least I've made a start.
Guess what I am doing this evening [emoji23][emoji23]
Hi All
My dcb1 is now built
http://i63.tinypic.com/2rruwqs.jpg
http://i68.tinypic.com/v83sis.jpg
The Preamp is running at a little over750mA at the moment, once bedded in I will be pushing it to the 1.2A.
As for sound, there is quite an improvement over my previous build now with Macca, Oi mate (Martin) your gonna want yours pushing to 750mA to 1.2A
S..
looks great.. nice one
Firebottle
28-11-2018, 15:34
What's the theory behind running it at higher current? Does it make it more linear or something? I don't really understand this stuff.
It's all to do with the effective quality of the power supply, as you know a good power supply is essential.
The buffer is powered from two shunt regulators (SR), each SR output is basically just a big FET. The more current that the FET handles the lower the apparent SR output impedance.
Low supply impedance = good sound, put simply.
It's all to do with the effective quality of the power supply, as you know a good power supply is essential.
The buffer is powered from two shunt regulators (SR), each SR output is basically just a big FET. The more current that the FET handles the lower the apparent SR output impedance.
Low supply impedance = good sound, put simply.
Thanks Alan, that makes sense to me. Can't believe I've just got this thing and I need to start upgrading it already ;) And I've still got another 70 hours burn in to do on the Spotfires!
Bigman80
28-11-2018, 16:47
Thanks Alan, that makes sense to me. Can't believe I've just got this thing and I need to start upgrading it already ;) And I've still got another 70 hours burn in to do on the Spotfires!Can't hang about mate, Steve and I work at speed. Lol
Bigman80
28-11-2018, 16:48
Made a bit more progress then had to down tools. I can't find my stand offs!!! Oh and before anyone points out the rubber thing on the top of the Traffo, I did that to mark how much to cut off the bolt.
It will be underneath when properly fitted.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181128/2070d2689b721e7fffbc46c693c371b2.jpg
It takes me 6 months just to decide if I like something or not!
I need to get with the programme. I'm up for a bake-off in Coventry as long as it isn't way out in the sticks.
Bigman80
28-11-2018, 17:03
It takes me 6 months just to decide if I like something or not!
I need to get with the programme. I'm up for a bake-off in Coventry as long as it isn't way out in the sticks.Ive firmly nailed my colours to the mast with this one mate. No doubt in my mind that it'll be here for a good while
Can catch a lift with me if needed.
Stevo, I love how tidy that is mate. Mine is going to look a little odd BUT I am odd so it suits lol. At least I've made a start.
Guess what I am doing this evening [emoji23][emoji23]
Cheers Mate....
Bakeoff, Yes Please
I'm up for it mate. Not sure when but I'm definitely up for it.
Count me in for the bakeoff gents :eyebrows:
ijrussell
28-11-2018, 17:27
It takes me 6 months just to decide if I like something or not!
I need to get with the programme. I'm up for a bake-off in Coventry as long as it isn't way out in the sticks.
I live in Bedworth which is 1 mile north of M6 J3.
looks great.. nice one
Cheers Grant.
It Sounds Awesome :cool:
I live in Bedworth which is 1 mile north of M6 J3.
I can get down to Ollie's pretty easy and go from there so I'm up for it.
Bigman80
28-11-2018, 18:01
I can get down to Ollie's pretty easy and go from there so I'm up for it.Sweet. Looks like we have a plan!!!
Steve
That looks really tidy, nice one. How did you get it to 750 mA rather than the 600?
Cheers Andy
Hi Ollie
Just need to sort a date, Ill probably have to stay over in a hotel, its a long way up from near Brighton !!!
Firebottle
28-11-2018, 18:29
Steve
That looks really tidy, nice one. How did you get it to 750 mA rather than the 600?
Cheers Andy
It's just down to the value of resistor in the first half of the shunt regulator, provided you meet the following criteria:
1) The FETs are adequately heatsinked,
2) The rectifiers are the larger current ones specified in the BOM,
3) The mains transformer is adequately rated. A 100VA will just do 1.2A, anything below this is fine.
Bigman80
28-11-2018, 18:30
Hi Ollie
Just need to sort a date, Ill probably have to stay over in a hotel, its a long way up from near Brighton !!!I know mate, no rush for me as mine isn't even built [emoji38][emoji38]
Also, as you know I have other things I need to sort out before I start trotting round the land with DCB1s.
Maybe Manny would bring his CharismaX.
It's just down to the value of resistor in the first half of the shunt regulator, provided you meet the following criteria:
1) The FETs are adequately heatsinked,
2) The rectifiers are the larger current ones specified in the BOM,
3) The mains transformer is adequately rated. A 100VA will just do 1.2A, anything below this is fine.
Ah , thanks Alan.
Hi All
My dcb1 is now built
http://i63.tinypic.com/2rruwqs.jpg
http://i68.tinypic.com/v83sis.jpg
The Preamp is running at a little over750mA at the moment, once bedded in I will be pushing it to the 1.2A.
As for sound, there is quite an improvement over my previous build now with Macca, Oi mate (Martin) your gonna want yours pushing to 750mA to 1.2A
S..
Very tidy looking build Steve, congrats.
Glad it's sounding good too!
Very tidy looking build Steve, congrats.
Glad it's sounding good too!
Hi JohnJo
Looks are not to bad but the sound is fantastic mate, I'm really pleased,,,
Regards Steve...
Steve
That looks really tidy, nice one. How did you get it to 750 mA rather than the 600?
Cheers Andy
Hi Andy, There are 2 resistors in the picture just below the bank of 4 caps (brown) you need to change the values of these. As standard the board runs at 60 to 70mA with the supplied resistors, just change the values !!
If you want to further improve the sound change the quality of the 8 resistors around the orange relay for higher quality resistors .
Eg. Audio Note or similar.
To be honest the first build I did was only running at 200mA but sounded Dam Good !!!!
S.
I know mate, no rush for me as mine isn't even built [emoji38][emoji38]
Also, as you know I have other things I need to sort out before I start trotting round the land with DCB1s.
Maybe Manny would bring his CharismaX.
Bring your new DCB1 to mine, you'll get to hear the Conrad Johnson.....
Bigman80
28-11-2018, 21:39
Bring your new DCB1 to mine, you'll get to hear the Conrad Johnson.....I will. I'll bring the Krell [emoji6]
Bigman80
29-11-2018, 10:58
More progress. I'll get these wired up later then on to the input and out put wiring.
Last job will be to find the correct values for 1.2A which will be done by Alan. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181129/72b4403bb0dd2f2868d520150db094da.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181129/cffde163a5721b8c7f248dcd322a0dcc.jpg
Looking good Oliver
Slow and steady dose it, won't be long
now mate !!!!
S.
Bigman80
29-11-2018, 16:45
Bit more done. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181129/13036ebb08b47cce4f7fc71217292b3e.jpg
Loads of space in that case, you could get a dog racing track in there. Is it all for the heatsinks?
Bigman80
29-11-2018, 17:01
Not entirely happy with the wiring from the Khozmo to the Selector switch So I am going to get Firebottle to re-do it expertly.
Steady progress today. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181129/6367fd12b92cfbb7e296d43887b82382.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181129/9bc9f729ebf2464b84248e738db7bdcf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181129/f68466997540343024477f673c0892a2.jpg
Bigman80
29-11-2018, 17:03
Loads of space in that case, you could get a dog racing track in there. Is it all for the heatsinks?No mate, just went for a good size case.
The casework is going to act as the heat sink and it should be fine at 1.2A so I'm going to go for it.
Hi Oliver
Your build looks like it's coming along nicely
Your gonna love the sound
Blown away with mine.
Thanks for your help Mr Firebottle!!
S.
Bigman80
29-11-2018, 19:23
Hi Oliver
Your build looks like it's coming along nicely
Your gonna love the sound
Blown away with mine.
Thanks for your help Mr Firebottle!!
S.Yes mate, I am at Firebottle assistance point now [emoji23][emoji23]
Shadow Moses
29-11-2018, 19:28
Lookin good guys
Bigman80
29-11-2018, 19:31
Lookin good guysCheers matey
yep good work! im hoping to hear steves at the weekend paired with karma interconnects mk7 :rolleyes:
Yes mate, I am at Firebottle assistance point now [emoji23][emoji23]
:lol:
Bigman80
29-11-2018, 19:56
yep good work! im hoping to hear steves at the weekend paired with karma interconnects mk7 :rolleyes:[emoji38] MK7!! Jesus, you're gonna be in double figures before the loan pair make it out [emoji38][emoji38]
Keep going with them, I'm looking forward to hearing them.
Bigman80
29-11-2018, 19:57
[emoji38]I know, I like him to check it over before I plug it in. Once this one is built, I should be done.
Once this one is built, I should be done.
:lol:
stop it you're killing me
Bigman80
29-11-2018, 20:27
[emoji38]
stop it you're killing me[emoji23][emoji23] I'm serious mate. What on earth is going to compete with this for less than £3k. I won't spend that sort of money so it's pretty much as far as I am going.
Looking at fans, maybe even water cooling for a 2A version so I can't see that happening.
This is the one mate.
May I ask where you are getting your cases from please?
With the LDR boards I've now received I'm tempted to use a new case instead of the existing LDR case.
[emoji38] MK7!! Jesus, you're gonna be in double figures before the loan pair make it out [emoji38][emoji38]
Keep going with them, I'm looking forward to hearing them.
You know what it’s like mate, small tweaks here and there etc,the good thing is each time is an improvement, to give you an idea of what they are like the mk3 beat audioquest diamondbacks.
Bigman80
29-11-2018, 20:40
You know what it’s like mate, small tweaks here and there etc,the good thing is each time is an improvement, to give you an idea of what they are like the mk3 beat audioquest diamondbacks.Good stuff mate. Yes, the only issue I found when making cables which had multiple cores like yours, is getting shielding of a sufficient level.
At the time I was using a SUT into the Phonostage and it was humming like mad. I even took the shielded from another cable and threaded the cable through. It made it better but still not as good as it could be.
What might have helped, which I didn't think of at the time, was to wrap it in foil first.
Good luck with them mate. I know Steve likes them so I am looking forward to a listen.
I'm serious mate. What on earth is going to compete with this for less than £3k. I won't spend that sort of money so it's pretty much as far as I am going.
Looking at fans, maybe even water cooling for a 2A version so I can't see that happening.
This is the one mate.
Oh you just mean with pre-amps?
Actually with this new pre-amp deployed you'll be pretty much sorted on most fronts.
Been listening to mine tonight. It'd good but it eludes greatness. It does a lot of things very well but it is not quite there.
Bigman80
29-11-2018, 20:57
Oh you just mean with pre-amps?
Actually with this new pre-amp deployed you'll be pretty much sorted on most fronts.
Been listening to mine tonight. It'd good but it eludes greatness. It does a lot of things very well but it is not quite there.Yes mate. Just with preamps.
I'm not sure how you achieve "greatness" without spending ££££s
I'm not sure how you achieve "greatness" without spending ££££s
No, neither am I and I've spent £££££s trying to work it out.
Bigman80
29-11-2018, 21:07
No, neither am I and I've spent £££££s trying to work it out.There's nothing I've found that gets close mate, anywhere.
Greatness, well, it is great in my eyes. Performance v pound is utterly superb and I've yet to find a better pre. I do have a bakeoff with a 'Truth' but what else is there for £600 that would push it?
Answers on a postcard.
Well no-one has heard everything. The best we can do is make educated guesses and see how they work out for us.
Bigman80
29-11-2018, 21:18
Well no-one has heard everything. The best we can do is make educated guesses and see how they work out for us.True. I suppose we'll just have to keep going until something better turns up
Hi Oliver
The only thing that would give the DCB1 turbo a good run for the money is another DCB1 turbo mate.
Mine stands me at a little over £500.
Cant think of ANY pre for that price that would better it!!!
Not unless you could pick up a Croft Charism X second hand for £500, Just NOT gonna happen mate.
S.
Bigman80
29-11-2018, 23:37
Hi Oliver
The only thing that would give the DCB1 turbo a good run for the money is another DCB1 turbo mate.
Mine stands me at a little over £500.
Cant think of ANY pre for that price that would better it!!!
Not unless you could pick up a Croft Charism X second hand for £500, Just NOT gonna happen mate.
S.Yep, I think you're spot on.
Truth is, there isn't really that much out there in preamp world for this sort of money. Certainly not much with this level of quality anyway.
Are there many unity gain pres out there at all? I have no idea.
Listening to this Chinese relay preamp daily and it's pretty good for £100 but it suffers the same issues as all the other passive pres I've tried. It lacks pace.
I'll have to add up my total for the bits but I suspect this is the last pre I'll have, unless it's beaten by 'the truth' and you can't rule it out!!
I know some one sold a 'Truth' recently in favour of a Luxman pre I think. Can't remember what that was. Could be a contender too.
ijrussell
29-11-2018, 23:40
Have any of you tried a WHAMMY? It's a DIY headphone amp designed by Wayne Colburn, the person behind pre amps at Pass Labs, but can be used as a pre amp. Rather than being unity gain, it offers 14db of gain.
Bigman80
29-11-2018, 23:46
Have any of you tried a WHAMMY? It's a DIY headphone amp designed by Wayne Colburn, the person behind pre amps at Pass Labs, but can be used as a pre amp. Rather than being unity gain, it offers 14db of gain.Nope, never heard of it but I'll certainly read up on it.
Like wise, I'll do a bit of googling too.
Something I've not heard of but always open minded.
Just out of curiosity where are they from ???
S.
ijrussell
30-11-2018, 00:29
Like wise, I'll do a bit of googling too.
Something I've not heard of but always open minded.
Just out of curiosity where are they from ???
S.
https://diyaudiostore.com/products/whammy
Listening to this Chinese relay preamp daily and it's pretty good for £100 but it suffers the same issues as all the other passive pres I've tried. It lacks pace.
.
The Spotify interconnects are not a good match with my passive either so you might want to take that into account. I guess it might be to do with impedance.
Bigman80
30-11-2018, 09:27
The Spotify interconnects are not a good match with my passive either so you might want to take that into account. I guess it might be to do with impedance.Yep, tried some RG316u, Sommer and some Shark cable.
SPOTFIRE are better than those. Shouldn't have to wait long mate, the pre is nearly finished!!!
https://diyaudiostore.com/products/whammy
Hi Ian
Thanks for the link
Will have a look !!!!
S.
keith1962
30-11-2018, 10:28
Salas who designed the DC version of Nelson's B1 also has a preamp with gain if needed. I don't need the gain so the DCB1 suits me fine.
So to get to 600 ma it just requires 4 rectifier be changed from MUR820 to MUR860 and 2 resistor values to be changed and the unit will operate with more juice without any further adjustment needed?
Are the 4 rectifier the black ones across the end of the board next to the 4 caps? Any links for where to buy 4 x 860?
Which 2 resistors need changing and to what value? Is it the 2 that run parallel to the short length of the board right next to the 4 caps. If so mine are Dale 10 R 6.5w (black Dale). Any close up pics of the resistors in question?
Currently having a play with mine to rearrange in the case and try different attenuator. I have a TKD 601 in there and have some alternatives to try. TKD 2501, Alps Black Beauty, Khozmo Shunt, Acoustic Dimension and a DACT which is in there at the minute and is a huge step up over the TKD. My money is on the DACT or the Acoustic Dimension.
Some nice looking builds there chaps!
Keith.
Salas who designed the DC version of Nelson's B1 also has a preamp with gain if needed. I don't need the gain so the DCB1 suits me fine.
So to get to 600 ma it just requires 4 rectifier be changed from MUR820 to MUR860 and 2 resistor values to be changed and the unit will operate with more juice without any further adjustment needed?
Are the 4 rectifier the black ones across the end of the board next to the 4 caps? Any links for where to buy 4 x 860?
Which 2 resistors need changing and to what value? Is it the 2 that run parallel to the short length of the board right next to the 4 caps. If so mine are Dale 10 R 6.5w (black Dale). Any close up pics of the resistors in question?
Currently having a play with mine to rearrange in the case and try different attenuator. I have a TKD 601 in there and have some alternatives to try. TKD 2501, Alps Black Beauty, Khozmo Shunt, Acoustic Dimension and a DACT which is in there at the minute and is a huge step up over the TKD. My money is on the DACT or the Acoustic Dimension.
Some nice looking builds there chaps!
Keith.
Hi Kieth
You need to use mur820 or 860, if you have MUR 820 already fitted they will be fine.
the 2 resistor that need changing are just below the 4 power caps change to 1.8ohm 3watt, Approx...
http://i68.tinypic.com/258xwt3.jpg
You can get MUR820 or 860 from ebay or Farnell
Also change the 8 resistors around the relay to better quality such as Audio Note or similar if you
want an increase in resolution.
Make sure your Tx is big enough to cope.
Steve...
Firebottle
30-11-2018, 10:55
Altering to run at 600mA does involve lowering the value of the 2 resistors you mention.
You do need to meet the criteria I stated in https://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?61230-DCB1-TURBO-BUILD-600Ma&p=1035463#post1035463
From tests the value needed is around 1.8 ohms or a little less. You could try 2 off 3.3 ohms in parallel giving 1.65 ohms. A 3 watt resistor is a large enough rating.
The difficulty with specifying the exact resistor value is that the relationship with increasing current is not linear, as it's dependant on the characteristics of the first FET.
keith1962
30-11-2018, 11:17
Thanks chaps, they are the resistors I was thinking about. Mine are 10R 6.5W so will try some as Alan suggests.
How Do I tell which rectifier I have fitted. There is nothing to see on the 4 that go across the width of the board at the cap end.
Fets are mounted to floor of case as has been done in the recent builds on this thread, will check the tx.
1M and 220k resistors are Riken Ohm and the 220r are Shinkoh so as good as it gets already unless going to z-foils or AN silver. Nick at Hificollective said not really worth it.
Keith
Bigman80
30-11-2018, 11:35
Thanks chaps, they are the resistors I was thinking about. Mine are 10R 6.5W so will try some as Alan suggests.
How Do I tell which rectifier I have fitted. There is nothing to see on the 4 that go across the width of the board at the cap end.
Fets are mounted to floor of case as has been done in the recent builds on this thread, will check the tx.
1M and 220k resistors are Riken Ohm and the 220r are Shinkoh so as good as it gets already unless going to z-foils or AN silver. Nick at Hificollective said not really worth it.
KeithNot much needs doing in that case. The resistors are fine!!
Alan and I are going to do some resistor value tests to get to 1.2A so as soon as we have them in place I'll update the thread.
As Alan said, this is going to largely be guesswork due to the slightly differing relationship with the FET.
Thanks chaps, they are the resistors I was thinking about. Mine are 10R 6.5W so will try some as Alan suggests.
How Do I tell which rectifier I have fitted. There is nothing to see on the 4 that go across the width of the board at the cap end.
Fets are mounted to floor of case as has been done in the recent builds on this thread, will check the tx.
1M and 220k resistors are Riken Ohm and the 220r are Shinkoh so as good as it gets already unless going to z-foils or AN silver. Nick at Hificollective said not really worth it.
Keith
Hi Keith,
My assumption was that you had a standard build, didn't realize you had Riken and Shinkoh already fitted!!
as for not being worth doing, i changed dale resistor to Audio Note Tantalum and there was quite a difference.
My assumption would be the 4 rectifiers you already have fitted are Mur 820 or 860 but cant say for definite,
S.
keith1962
30-11-2018, 11:58
So roughly what will mine be operating at with 10R in there? I will get some Mills 1R8 5W and fit them in place. Not concerned to go the full 1.2a as I don't want to mess about with extra heatsinking at this stage. Putting 1R8 s in should get me roughly to the 600ma if I read this thread correctly?
My board has the rectifiers fitted across the end in the positions marked MUR820 so they will be either 820 or 860 and so don't need changing? I see from the pic above that Steve posted that if they were the original MUR120 they would be fitted in the middle of the 4 caps rather than at the end? Mine has a jumper fitted as in the pic above. Is this correct?
KR
Keith.
So roughly what will mine be operating at with 10R in there? I will get some Mills 1R8 5W and fit them in place. Not concerned to go the full 1.2a as I don't want to mess about with extra heatsinking at this stage. Putting 1R8 s in should get me roughly to the 600ma if I read this thread correctly?
My board has the rectifiers fitted across the end in the positions marked MUR820 so they will be either 820 or 860 and so don't need changing? I see from the pic above that Steve posted that if they were the original MUR120 they would be fitted in the middle of the 4 caps rather than at the end? Mine has a jumper fitted as in the pic above. Is this correct?
KR
Keith.
Hi Kieth
The jumper will be marked J1 leave in place
Alan ( Firebottle ) did some calculations with mine after piggy backing a couple of extra resistors and its now running at 750mA approx!
I think yours will be similar with the 1.8ohm.
S.
keith1962
30-11-2018, 12:19
Thanks Steve, that should be sufficient output for now!
Not touching the jumper but just explaining my "penny dropped" moment when I realised from your pic that I don't need to change the rectifiers as I have 820 or 860 due to their position on the board and that the jumper replaces the 120s.
So replacing 2 x 10R resistors to 2 x 1R8 will get me a good lift in output. These resistors don't need to be particularly special I take it?
KR
Keith
Thanks Steve, that should be sufficient output for now!
Not touching the jumper but just explaining my "penny dropped" moment when I realised from your pic that I don't need to change the rectifiers as I have 820 or 860 due to their position on the board and that the jumper replaces the 120s.
So replacing 2 x 10R resistors to 2 x 1R8 will get me a good lift in output. These resistors don't need to be particularly special I take it?
KR
Keith
Hi Keith,
Any 3 or 5 watt will do :thumbsup:
S.
After quite a few long listening sessions i decided to take out the Audio Note Tantalum resistors,
although really good i felt the bass was a little light and had less impact.
I re-soldered the Dale resistors back in and it still had the same insightful sound but now had more impact.
Think i will try Riken Ohm and see how it sound.
S.
Bigman80
02-12-2018, 00:42
After quite a few long listening sessions i decided to take out the Audio Note Tantalum resistors,
although really good i felt the bass was a little light and had less impact.
I re-soldered the Dale resistors back in and it still had the same insightful sound but now had more impact.
Think i will try Riken Ohm and see how it sound.
S.Go for it mate. I will leave mine as is for a few weeks, i want at least 200hrs through it before I decide anything.
keith1962
02-12-2018, 13:02
Just checked and my transformer is 40va so not sufficient for higher outputs as discussed earlier. Anyone have a link for a suitable transformer to get?
KR
Keith
Check out Airlink in the UK or Toroidy PL in Poland,
Bigman80
02-12-2018, 14:47
Just checked and my transformer is 40va so not sufficient for higher outputs as discussed earlier. Anyone have a link for a suitable transformer to get?
KR
Keithhttps://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F 231266783166
This will be fine for up to 1.2A if necessary. Good price too.
I use toroidy.pl as IMO he makes supremely good Traffos.
https://sklep.toroidy.pl/en_US/p/TTSA0100-Transformer-AUDIO-TSA100VA-voltage-to-50V-/312
I got a 100va 2x12v. Cost about £50 delivered.
brian2957
02-12-2018, 14:53
Cracking thread this chaps . I'm really enjoying reading it . Makes me wish I had listened at school :rolleyes:
Bigman80
02-12-2018, 15:00
Cracking thread this chaps . I'm really enjoying reading it . Makes me wish I had listened at school :rolleyes:No need to have, Brian. I certainly didn't.
It's easier than you think except when you have to start working things out. At that point Alan's phone starts ringing [emoji38][emoji38]
It like a jigsaw puzzle, with instructions.
brian2957
02-12-2018, 15:02
It's handy to have someone like Alan nearby mate :)
i had the pleasure today to listen to steve's dcb1,all i can say is its stunning! so clean sounding with huge clarity,the only thing stopping me from instantly buying one is the fact i own an integrated otherwise id be all over one.
steve mate,you should give yourself a pat on the back,you've done a first class job,a very professional looking build with great detail to the lay out.
:champagne:
Bigman80
02-12-2018, 17:36
It's handy to have someone like Alan nearby mate :)Oh, definitely. No doubt mate.
i had the pleasure today to listen to steve's dcb1,all i can say is its stunning! so clean sounding with huge clarity,the only thing stopping me from instantly buying one is the fact i own an integrated otherwise id be all over one.
steve mate,you should give yourself a pat on the back,you've done a first class job,a very professional looking build with great detail to the lay out.
:champagne:
Hi Jamie
Thanks for your comments.
This build is particularly good, i love the sound.
S.
Hi Jamie
Thanks for your comments.
This build is particularly good, i love the sound.
S.
yes its much better than the first version i heard,im sure ian will be along to echo my thoughts.
As Jamie said we had the good fortune to hear Steve's DCB1 today and what a treat it was. Now I'm no engineer and I really don't understand the technical details but what I do appreciate is the very high level of quality in the construction and components. Inside the case is extremely neat and professional, the case itself is very well made, not looking like a home made effort in any way. The sound quality is simply astonishing, I think if I was to say that it sounded as though it wasn't there, didn't add or take away anything, just a pure, clean path to the power amp will give you the idea of experience. I WANT ONE!!!.
As Jamie said we had the good fortune to hear Steve's DCB1 today and what a treat it was. Now I'm no engineer and I really don't understand the technical details but what I do appreciate is the very high level of quality in the construction and components. Inside the case is extremely neat and professional, the case itself is very well made, not looking like a home made effort in any way. The sound quality is simply astonishing, I think if I was to say that it sounded as though it wasn't there, didn't add or take away anything, just a pure, clean path to the power amp will give you the idea of experience. I WANT ONE!!!.
Wow, thanks for your comments Ian.
There's something really satisfying about building your own equipment made even better when you have comments saying it sounded particularly good
Thanks for having me over.
S.
You're very welcome Steve, kettle always on standby.
Bigman80
02-12-2018, 18:16
Wow, thanks for your comments Ian.
There's something really satisfying about building your own equipment made even better when you have comments saying it sounded particularly good
Thanks for having me over.
S.Well done Steve.
I'm really pleased Ian and Jamie are suitably impressed and is further proof of the DCB1'S growing reputation here.
Jamie, your amp can be changed to a power amp by bypassing the volume/selector pots and making it a power amp. I'm convinced JW would be happy to do that for you.
I think I recommended that to you previously?
Hi Oliver
How much more do you need to do to complete your build ??
S.
Hi Ian
Nahh, Guinness next time mate.....
Well done Steve.
I'm really pleased Ian and Jamie are suitably impressed and is further proof of the DCB1'S growing reputation here.
Jamie, your amp can be changed to a power amp by bypassing the volume/selector pots and making it a power amp. I'm convinced JW would be happy to do that for you.
I think I recommended that to you previously?
yes he can do that,i asked him a few months ago,hmmm food for thought eh :eyebrows:
Bigman80
02-12-2018, 19:15
Hi Oliver
How much more do you need to do to complete your build ??
S.I'm awaiting some resistors and about 8 pieces of wire from the selector switch to the inputs. That's it mate.
Bigman80
02-12-2018, 19:16
yes he can do that,i asked him a few months ago,hmmm food for thought eh :eyebrows:I will *guarantee* that if you did that, you'd be a happy man.
Got no spotfire cable left to wire the selector switch???
S.
Bigman80
02-12-2018, 19:40
Got no spotfire cable left to wire the selector switch???
S.
Yes mate but i want to change the way the RCA sockets are connected to the case work. No point soldering them all on and then having to take them off to alter the Sockets.
I am not happy with how tight i can get them. There is a little bit of movement on the sockets so i want to get Alan to have a look. It might be the sockets i have used or just that i havent got the right tool for the job. Either way, what would take me 20 minutes to work out and fix, will take Alan 2 lol
Other than that, everything has gone very smoothly. I am still waiting for the acrylic panel to arrive too but in terms of working order, it's very close. I just need a bit of time to get over to Alans.
It’s just a nut isn’t it?
brian2957
03-12-2018, 08:27
It’s just a nut isn’t it?
You can't call him that Jamie :D
Bigman80
03-12-2018, 09:29
It’s just a nut isn’t it?It is, but I am trying to do it with pliers and I don't want to round the nut or make it look shabby.
Bigman80
03-12-2018, 09:30
You can't call him that Jamie :D[emoji374]
brian2957
03-12-2018, 09:32
[emoji374]
That's a bolt and a nut mate :)
Bigman80
03-12-2018, 09:33
That's a bolt and a nut mate :)I'm the full package [emoji23][emoji23]
brian2957
03-12-2018, 09:36
Aye , the word's out mate :lol:
Bigman80
03-12-2018, 09:40
Aye , the word's out mate [emoji38][emoji38]
You need a linda lovelace socket ;)
It is, but I am trying to do it with pliers and I don't want to round the nut or make it look shabby.
Stop being tight Oliver, buy some proper tools. Pliers! FFS!
Bigman80
03-12-2018, 10:17
Stop being tight Oliver, buy some proper tools. Pliers! FFS![emoji23][emoji23] I know, I should do, I may be building another phonostage soon so possibly best to get the tools.
keith1962
03-12-2018, 18:20
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F 231266783166
This will be fine for up to 1.2A if necessary. Good price too.
I use toroidy.pl as IMO he makes supremely good Traffos.
https://sklep.toroidy.pl/en_US/p/TTSA0100-Transformer-AUDIO-TSA100VA-voltage-to-50V-/312
I got a 100va 2x12v. Cost about £50 delivered.
Cheers Oliver,
Will order from Toroidy I think.
2x12V, 100 VA. Does centre potting make any difference?
Might need to check here/get advice regarding wiring up the tails. Mine has red-black, 15V 40 VA and yellow-orange, 15V 40 VA. The connections onto the PCB looking from the input end have black left, yellow right and the red and orange to the middle.
KR
Keith.
Bigman80
03-12-2018, 18:41
Cheers Oliver,
Will order from Toroidy I think.
2x12V, 100 VA. Does centre potting make any difference?
Might need to check here/get advice regarding wiring up the tails. Mine has red-black, 15V 40 VA and yellow-orange, 15V 40 VA. The connections onto the PCB looking from the input end have black left, yellow right and the red and orange to the middle.
KR
Keith.Keith,
The colours of the wires on the Toriody won't be the same so don't worry about that. We will help you figure it out when it gets to you. You'll need a multimeter to figure it out.
Mine is 100va 2x12v. That is sufficient up to 1.2A level.
I like the transformer to be resin filled as it helps with any vibration. I've just plugged my Traffo in and it's absolutely silent. That's why I go to Toriody.
Bigman80
03-12-2018, 18:44
Managed to dig a spanner out that was the right size.
Only thing left to do is connect the Traffo and run a ground wire to the inputs and outputs.
Then its on to getting it running at 1.2A.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181203/e9fe7f456b7f7b4183d5a61fc9d41c27.jpg
I ordered one of these Toroidy things at the weekend £50 all in is pretty good i reckon. There are cheaper out there though.
Bigman80
03-12-2018, 18:52
I ordered one of these Toroidy things at the weekend £50 all in is pretty good i reckon. There are cheaper out there though.Cheaper, yes. Better, no.
Cheaper, yes. Better, no.True dat !
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Bigman80
03-12-2018, 18:58
True dat !
Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkNothing worse than a noisy transformer. It's worth every penny IMO
Mine was a lot cheaper and not noisy, absolutely silent
Nothing wrong with a cheaper transformer
S.
Bigman80
03-12-2018, 19:04
Mine was a lot cheaper and not noisy, absolutely silent
Nothing wrong with a cheaper transformer
S.I'm talking CHEAPER not the one you bought mate. Yours wasn't far off the same price was it?
Mine cost £33 and I'm chuffed that it's silent.
It could have been a duffer but i guess i was lucky
If however i had seen the toroidy before i bought thats what I'd have ordered .
keith1962
03-12-2018, 19:13
Where did you get yours Steve? Will it need heat sinks to run at 1.2A? Was just going to run at 600ish but if it can go to 1.2 with the fets bolted to the case floor I might go that far.
Having said that, I have rearranged internally and so need a new front panel as the holes for the knobs are in the wrong place. That means I will have a piece of 400x90x10 aluminium that can be adapted. Bolt the fets to that and bolt that to the floor of the case....Hmmm....
Bigman80
03-12-2018, 19:16
Mine cost £33 and I'm chuffed that it's silent.
It could have been a duffer but i guess i was lucky
If however i had seen the toroidy before i bought thats what I'd have ordered .That's a great price! You were lucky. Share the link mate. Someone may require a cheaper one to get started.
Bigman80
03-12-2018, 19:18
Where did you get yours Steve? Will it need heat sinks to run at 1.2A? Was just going to run at 600ish but if it can go to 1.2 with the fets bolted to the case floor I might go that far.
Having said that, I have rearranged internally and so need a new front panel as the holes for the knobs are in the wrong place. That means I will have a piece of 400x90x10 aluminium that can be adapted. Bolt the fets to that and bolt that to the floor of the case....Hmmm....Yes yes yes. That's exactly what you should do.
I am going over to Alan's at some point to work out what resistors are needed for running at 1.2A.
All I am doing is Bolting the FETs to the base. I am convinced it will be absolutely fine.
Where did you get yours Steve? Will it need heat sinks to run at 1.2A? Was just going to run at 600ish but if it can go to 1.2 with the fets bolted to the case floor I might go that far.
Having said that, I have rearranged internally and so need a new front panel as the holes for the knobs are in the wrong place. That means I will have a piece of 400x90x10 aluminium that can be adapted. Bolt the fets to that and bolt that to the floor of the case....Hmmm....
Hi Keith
Having run mine for a period of 6 hour listening sessions and found it to be really cool, mine runs at approx 750mA, as long as your case is thick base aluminum I'm confident it should be ok at 1.2A if not just fit huge heatsinks.
You have Pm.
S.
keith1962
04-12-2018, 16:10
Thanks for the replies. I will get a transformer ordered and then await the results of your resistor tests to find out which value resistors to order.
KR
Keith
sq225917
04-12-2018, 21:36
I have toroidy traffos in my mod86p monos. Two for the price of one vs talema part from Farnell, and much better built. Great traffos, i might try his chokes next.
Bigman80
04-12-2018, 21:59
I have toroidy traffos in my mod86p monos. Two for the price of one vs talema part from Farnell, and much better built. Great traffos, i might try his chokes next.Yes, I'm a big fan.
keith1962
05-12-2018, 09:35
I have toroidy traffos in my mod86p monos. Two for the price of one vs talema part from Farnell, and much better built. Great traffos, i might try his chokes next.
The 40VA traffo currently in my DCB1 is an RS/Talema and when I looked for the equivalent at 100VA from them it was the same price as the Toroidy so I went with that. Just have to wait the 14 days for delivery from Poland!
KR
Keith
Bigman80
06-12-2018, 19:48
Picking mine up from Alan's Tomorrow. He's corrected a couple of 'ive got other things on my mind' mistakes.
Running at 1.2A, which is as far as this one will go.
Very excited to get this home.
Picking mine up from Alan's Tomorrow....Very excited to get this home.
He should wrap it up and tell you you're not allowed to open it until Christmas morning :D
Santa bottle ! [emoji23]
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Bigman80
06-12-2018, 20:03
Santa bottle ! [emoji23]
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk[emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]
Bigman80
06-12-2018, 20:06
He should wrap it up and tell you you're not allowed to open it until Christmas morning :DDon't give him ideas!!!
keith1962
06-12-2018, 23:23
Mine has been running with 10 ohm resistors so I think about 200ish ma output while i wait for 100 va traffo and 1.4R ish resistors to get to 600 ish ma output. In the meantime for the last 10days i have been swapping volume controllers. Started with a DACT which was very hifi, detailed, clean, open but ultimately sterile and too hifi with an emphasis on the leading edge. Khozmo shunt was tonally better and more balanced between leading edge and decay but a bit flat and uninvolving. Acoustic Dimension was detailed and open with good balance between leading edge and decay but much more involving. Have tried apps black beauty, tkd 2511 and noble (large black pot) and while they are nice i prefer the stepped attenuator clarity. The Acoustic Dimension seems to hit the spot for me so far.
KR
Keith
Bigman80
06-12-2018, 23:32
Mine has been running with 10 ohm resistors so I think about 200ish ma output while i wait for 100 va traffo and 1.4R ish resistors to get to 600 ish ma output. In the meantime for the last 10days i have been swapping volume controllers. Started with a DACT which was very hifi, detailed, clean, open but ultimately sterile and too hifi with an emphasis on the leading edge. Khozmo shunt was tonally better and more balanced between leading edge and decay but a bit flat and uninvolving. Acoustic Dimension was detailed and open with good balance between leading edge and decay but much more involving. Have tried apps black beauty, tkd 2511 and noble (large black pot) and while they are nice i prefer the stepped attenuator clarity. The Acoustic Dimension seems to hit the spot for me so far.
KR
KeithVery interesting, Keith. I'll be hearing the ADSA tomorrow and am looking forward to it. Unfortunately it won't be in the DCB1 for a direct comparison.
I'm surprised you felt the Khozmo was uninvolving because that certainly isn't what I have felt using it. However, the Acoustic Dimensions could be something rather special which would explain your findings.
I really am excited by this and knowing Alan's KIN as well as I do, this could be very interesting
Mine has been running with 10 ohm resistors so I think about 200ish ma output while i wait for 100 va traffo and 1.4R ish resistors to get to 600 ish ma output. In the meantime for the last 10days i have been swapping volume controllers. Started with a DACT which was very hifi, detailed, clean, open but ultimately sterile and too hifi with an emphasis on the leading edge. Khozmo shunt was tonally better and more balanced between leading edge and decay but a bit flat and uninvolving. Acoustic Dimension was detailed and open with good balance between leading edge and decay but much more involving. Have tried apps black beauty, tkd 2511 and noble (large black pot) and while they are nice i prefer the stepped attenuator clarity. The Acoustic Dimension seems to hit the spot for me so far.
KR
Keith
Hi Keith
With the 10ohm resistors in place you would be lucky if you were pushing anything more than 150 to 160mA.
I had 8.2ohm and was only at 180 to 190ish.
I too have the urge to try the Acoustic Dimension but could never describe the Khozmo as ( a bit flat and uninvolving) I only ever found it to be utterly transparent.
S.
keith1962
07-12-2018, 09:25
Ah, should get a decent step up going to 600ish ma then.
Remember with the attenuator the Khozmo is a shunt type with Amtrans resistors in the shunt position. The Dact was very impressive in that HiFi way, too much leading edge for me. The Khozmo was better with more realistic tone to me and the AD felt like there was more depth on top of that.
I still have them so will put the Khozmo back in again. I think the shunt arrangement might be causing the difference.and the accepted wisdom does seem to be to go for ladder or series attenuator rather than shunt.
KR
Keith
Bigman80
07-12-2018, 11:53
Its done!!!
Still waiting for the acrylic front panel which I believe is arriving today. Fingers crossed. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181207/ea66ac73fd1c5ab6b02bae627cfe24b3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181207/afd2213232e1cde692287066baa02250.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181207/bcfae8b3ef422b957ff5b4a0cbd54c11.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181207/ee5d0cb32dd04c1b5d0890d44fa6130b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181207/cfeb542c12855b18b3d73c025630f87f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181207/64e03cea39e398cc5f68d308a73aa198.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181207/e3ad5beb15b63abcd427503f545a20c7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181207/917d931b5ba0906a00d36c9f4126f56d.jpg
Nice ! looks really good , especially with the devilishly fiery glow of hot muzak emanating from it!:eek:
got my bits from teabag this week so am plotting my next moves for the xmas build:)
Bigman80
07-12-2018, 12:43
Nice ! looks really good , especially with the devilishly fiery glow of hot muzak emanating from it!:eek:
got my bits from teabag this week so am plotting my next moves for the xmas build:)Thanks mate. I'm plotting on how to make it visible all the time. I need a slight rearrange of the kit.
Sound wise, already it's surpassed my expectations. Just need the front panel to finish it off.
Hi Oliver
I did say your gonna love the turbo dcb1
Really glad your loving it
Now on to my dual mono DCB1 build..
Steve
Bigman80
07-12-2018, 13:01
Hi Oliver
I did say your gonna love the turbo dcb1
Really glad your loving it
Now on to my dual mono DCB1 build..
SteveYou did mate. I knew it though. After the 50mA, 200mA versions, I thought it was blatantly obvious that it got better as the mA went up!
What I didn't expect was just how much of an improvement each increment would be.
The Audionote resistors are a marvel too. So much cleaner IMO.
Hi Oliver
I guess we need to put down the Audio Note resistors change in mine going back to the dale due to either the difference in equipment used or differences in our ears mate
Really pleased for you....
S.
sq225917
07-12-2018, 13:49
There's a lot of bang-tidy on that box Oli. Trim or twist those signal wires tho...
Bigman80
07-12-2018, 14:18
There's a lot of bang-tidy on that box Oli. Trim or twist those signal wires tho...Thanks Si,
Between the selector switch and inputs?
Hi All
Dcb1 sold, now i can start my new build.
I'm building a dual mono DCB1.
Will start a new thread .
Thanks oliver for being a pain in the arse and starting me on this path.
Thanks Alan for being so cleaver and the help you gave. Couldn't have managed otherwise, and to all who followed the thread. CHEERS :cool:
Steve.
Bigman80
07-12-2018, 15:47
Hi All
Dcb1 sold, now i can start my new build.
I'm building a dual mono DCB1.
Will start a new thread .
Thanks oliver for being a pain in the arse and starting me on this path.
Thanks Alan for being so cleaver and the help you gave. Couldn't have managed otherwise, and to all who followed the thread. CHEERS :cool:
Steve.[emoji1787][emoji1787] you're welcome mate. Anytime
Good luck with the new build.
keith1962
07-12-2018, 16:35
Looks excellent Oliver. So running at 1.2 just using the bottom of the case for the Fets but extra heat sinking for the MUR820?
What value of resistor get 1.2a. I think Steve has advised that 1R4 will get about 600 or 700 ish?
Now this whole thing heads off in another direction with Steve's dual mono!!!
Bigman80
07-12-2018, 17:16
Looks excellent Oliver. So running at 1.2 just using the bottom of the case for the Fets but extra heat sinking for the MUR820?
What value of resistor get 1.2a. I think Steve has advised that 1R4 will get about 600 or 700 ish?
Now this whole thing heads off in another direction with Steve's dual mono!!!Hi Keith,
Thanks!! Although without a little help from the main man, I'd still be stuck.
So, if I recall correctly, there's
0.33R, 0.47R & 0.68R of the left side
0.33R & 0.68R on the right side.
This is due to some sort of imbalance between the channels. I have put this down to the FETs not being matched.
Obviously, unless you know how to measure the output, you'll be guessing!
Heat dissipation is done via the casework only BUT I noticed the heat increased when I put the CDP on top. It's warm but not hot. I have had it on all day and id happily let a baby touch it. It's not hot in the slightest. I'm happy with the temperature.
The MUR860 required some additional heat dissipation in Alan's opinion and I'm in no mind to disagree.
Firebottle
07-12-2018, 17:26
0.8 ohms for the positive side, made up from 0.33 + 0.47.
0.91 ohms for the negative, made up from 0.33 + 0.68, with a 10 ohm in parallel.
The MUR820's could go on the case as well.
Bigman80
07-12-2018, 18:02
0.8 ohms for the positive side, made up from 0.33 + 0.47.
0.91 ohms for the negative, made up from 0.33 + 0.68, with a 10 ohm in parallel.
The MUR820's could go on the case as well.That's it [emoji38] I knew they were different.
keith1962
07-12-2018, 18:03
Is the measuring just done with a multi meter? Across which points? I will probably go for 1r2 or 1r4 to get between 600 and 800. Was just going to trust that mine had been built with matched Fets but will measure to get values accurate if it is easy enough?
Keith
Firebottle
07-12-2018, 19:35
Measure the voltage across the low value resistor with your multimeter and then calculate the current with I=V/R
Simples
https://www.comparethemarket.com.au/meerkat/wp-content/themes/salient-child/images/Aleks.png
keith1962
07-12-2018, 19:48
Thank you Sergei:)
keith1962
07-12-2018, 19:50
Oh, and which one is the low value resistor? :)
keith1962
09-12-2018, 12:23
Well I tried the Khozmo shunt again and I definitely prefer th Acoustic Dimension. Maybe the shunt configuration is the cause but I don't know how that would be.
What is also difficult to understand is how they can sound different. These two and the Dact are the same construction as far as I know with mini pcbs with smd resistors but there is a difference.
Firebottle
09-12-2018, 12:59
Contact material and pressure could come into it.
I believe the Acoustic Dimension designed out one of the contact points in each channel.
I'm the new owner of Steve's dcb1,I think Steve must work for the post office,it was delivered less than 24 hours after I paid for it,amazing service!
Didn't really have time at the weekend with overtime and other things getting in the way,but had a good 6 hour listen today,should have only been 2 hours but my bike ride ended up not happening due to the just one more disc syndrome!
Very good sound,in a wierd way almost like there's nothing there,which makes me realise how coloured the sound was before,bit hot in my cupboard though,think I'll have to look into how you fit heat sinks into it,thanks a lot Steve,amazing build!
good buy mate,i heard your one a few weeks ago,i was very impressed with it.
Bigman80
10-12-2018, 18:54
I'm the new owner of Steve's dcb1,I think Steve must work for the post office,it was delivered less than 24 hours after I paid for it,amazing service!
Didn't really have time at the weekend with overtime and other things getting in the way,but had a good 6 hour listen today,should have only been 2 hours but my bike ride ended up not happening due to the just one more disc syndrome!
Very good sound,in a wierd way almost like there's nothing there,which makes me realise how coloured the sound was before,bit hot in my cupboard though,think I'll have to look into how you fit heat sinks into it,thanks a lot Steve,amazing build!Fitting heat sinks inside may not make a lot of difference.
Is there a CDP or similar on top?
Make sure it isn't closed in.
I have had to raise my CDP with some special isolation feet to make sure the DCB1 remains coolish.
Pic:https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181210/aa6bd055ca51c56c9442f665543d031c.jpg
I'm the new owner of Steve's dcb1,I think Steve must work for the post office,it was delivered less than 24 hours after I paid for it,amazing service!
Didn't really have time at the weekend with overtime and other things getting in the way,but had a good 6 hour listen today,should have only been 2 hours but my bike ride ended up not happening due to the just one more disc syndrome!
Very good sound,in a wierd way almost like there's nothing there,which makes me realise how coloured the sound was before,bit hot in my cupboard though,think I'll have to look into how you fit heat sinks into it,thanks a lot Steve,amazing build!
Hi Lee
You must have no ventilation at all, I've had it running for a period of iver 6 hours and still cool enough to keep your hand on the base where the fets are bolted.
If you still have a problem with heat let me know and I'll sort out fitting heatsinks for you
Steve...
Hi Lee
You must have no ventilation at all, I've had it running for a period of iver 6 hours and still cool enough to keep your hand on the base where the fets are bolted.
If you still have a problem with heat let me know and I'll sort out fitting heatsinks for you
Steve...
Cheers Steve,it really is a lovely piece of kit,ventilation is a issue as my kit lives in a cupboard,but there's nothing on top of each other and it does take about 4-5 hours before it got warm,going to have a rejig of everything at the weekend which will make it cooler,i wonder whether some vents in the lid might help?
Hi Lee
Certainly would help mate
S.
keith1962
16-12-2018, 14:59
Well, removed the 10R resistors and fitted 1.2R and there is a definite improvement in how this now sounds. Improvement in clarity and therefore detail but also increased smoothness and calmness. Sounds quieter which is a good sign as I think it is distortion that can make things sound loud.
I get 1.092V across one resistor and 1.076V across the other so with 1.2R I reckon that is 910mA and 896mA respectively? can someone (Alan :)? ) advise if this is close enough or would further matching improve things? What value resistor is required to parallel with the 1.092 side to get it down to 1.076?
The bottom of the case is hot to touch but can keep my hand on it no problem, same with finger ends on the Fets themselves so the heat seems to be transferring away ok. The MURs, however are very hot and can't quite keep a finger end on them so will need to look at getting some heatsinking onto them. What solutions have you tried for the MURs?
KR
Keith.
Bigman80
16-12-2018, 15:05
Well, removed the 10R resistors and fitted 1.2R and there is a definite improvement in how this now sounds. Improvement in clarity and therefore detail but also increased smoothness and calmness. Sounds quieter which is a good sign as I think it is distortion that can make things sound loud.
I get 1.092V across one resistor and 1.076V across the other so with 1.2R I reckon that is 910mA and 896mA respectively? can someone (Alan :)? ) advise if this is close enough or would further matching improve things? What value resistor is required to parallel with the 1.092 side to get it down to 1.076?
The bottom of the case is hot to touch but can keep my hand on it no problem, same with finger ends on the Fets themselves so the heat seems to be transferring away ok. The MURs, however are very hot and can't quite keep a finger end on them so will need to look at getting some heatsinking onto them. What solutions have you tried for the MURs?
KR
Keith.Alan added some heatsinks to the MUR so I'd definitely suggest you do the same.
Personally, I think that you need to balance the channels. Have a play with resistor values but yes, I definitely agree that as the mA went up, so does performance.
Well done!
Well, removed the 10R resistors and fitted 1.2R and there is a definite improvement in how this now sounds. Improvement in clarity and therefore detail but also increased smoothness and calmness. Sounds quieter which is a good sign as I think it is distortion that can make things sound loud.
I get 1.092V across one resistor and 1.076V across the other so with 1.2R I reckon that is 910mA and 896mA respectively? can someone (Alan :)? ) advise if this is close enough or would further matching improve things? What value resistor is required to parallel with the 1.092 side to get it down to 1.076?
The bottom of the case is hot to touch but can keep my hand on it no problem, same with finger ends on the Fets themselves so the heat seems to be transferring away ok. The MURs, however are very hot and can't quite keep a finger end on them so will need to look at getting some heatsinking onto them. What solutions have you tried for the MURs?
KR
Keith.
Hi Keith
You can mount the Diodes on the case too but youll probably need to de solder them.
You can always use smaller To220 heatsinks if you think you need them but you should be well inside the 8 Amps the mur82/mur860 handle
Steve...
Bigman80
16-12-2018, 19:38
Hi Keith
You can mount the Diodes on the case too but youll probably need to de solder them.
You can always use smaller To220 heatsinks if you think you need them but you should be well inside the 8 Amps the mur82/mur860 handle
Steve...Little heat sinks will help. Alan said they could handle it but seems daft not dissipate the heat to keep the MUR at a lower temperature.
That's my view anyway. Attaching to the case is probably a simple way but if it's already hot, you'll just add to the heat.
The heat from the fets is sufficiently far enough away from the diodes not to cause any problem.
Look at how close your fets are in pairs, the diodes are further away.
Bigman80
16-12-2018, 19:48
The heat from the fets is sufficiently far enough away from the diodes not to cause any problem.
Look at how close your fets are in pairs, the diodes are further away.I'd prefer them to be independently mounted to either one big heatsink or a few smaller ones but whatever Keith wants to do will work in his favour.
I'd prefer them to be independently mounted to either one big heatsink or a few smaller ones but whatever Keith wants to do will work in his favour.
Was that not my suggestion ?? (Hi Keith
You can mount the rectifiers on the case too but youll probably need to de solder them.
You can always use smaller To220 heatsinks if you think you need them but you should be well inside the 8 Amps the mur82/mur860 handle)
Bigman80
16-12-2018, 19:53
Was that not my suggestion ?? (Hi Keith
You can mount the Diodes on the case too but youll probably need to de solder them.
You can always use smaller To220 heatsinks if you think you need them but you should be well inside the 8 Amps the mur82/mur860 handle)Lol, yes, I agreed but said I'd go for independent heatsinks over fitting the to the chassis. I think we both said the same thing, just differently.
Firebottle
16-12-2018, 19:59
The current levels are very close and don't need adjustment.
Fit a few square inches of aluminium plate to the MUR rectifiers and it will bring the temperature down, like I did to Oli's.
keith1962
21-12-2018, 10:25
So managed to do a bit of metal cutting, drilling and tapping last night. Fets mounted on a piece of 90mm x 160mm x 10mm aluminium plate bolted to the case floor and a piece of 2mm aluminium angle bolted to the MURs and a piece of the 10mm plate bolted to the angle.
The mod to the rectifier has worked nicely and they are now just warm to the touch.
However, the Fets seem to be hotter and the aluminium plate is very hot. I am going to use some of the angle and a piece of the plate bolted to the bottom plate and the side of the case to the right of the photo to try and spread a bit of the thermal load.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181221/db7e3455b510678c5f7e06a05753285c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181221/331ad9c1cdee7fa82340b99ae03036a9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181221/133b34885d117cef97d9863cd70af8d1.jpg
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Bigman80
21-12-2018, 10:37
So managed to do a bit of metal cutting, drilling and tapping last night. Fets mounted on a piece of 90mm x 160mm x 10mm aluminium plate bolted to the case floor and a piece of 2mm aluminium angle bolted to the MURs and a piece of the 10mm plate bolted to the angle.
The mod to the rectifier has worked nicely and they are now just warm to the touch.
However, the Fets seem to be hotter and the aluminium plate is very hot. I am going to use some of the angle and a piece of the plate bolted to the bottom plate and the side of the case to the right of the photo to try and spread a bit of the thermal load.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181221/db7e3455b510678c5f7e06a05753285c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181221/331ad9c1cdee7fa82340b99ae03036a9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181221/133b34885d117cef97d9863cd70af8d1.jpg
Sent from my SM-G935F using TapatalkOk, couple of things:
The wiring from selector switch to SA shouldn't be wound together. That engourages cross talk. I'd separate them,
The metal plate from the FETs to the casework won't be transferring the heat well unless you've used thermal paste which I didn't read as you have.
I'd remove the aluminium plate and use some jumper wires to the FETs and mount them directly to the case work. Or add thermal paste between the please and case.
keith1962
21-12-2018, 10:59
Thanks Oliver, and yes, already had thermal paste on order so will use that next time I dismantle. I have a 100Va Toroidy on the way to replace the 40Va in there at present and need to do the SA mounting so plenty of opportunities to apply the paste.
Do all of the signal cables from input to selector, selector to SA and SA to outputs need to be uncoiled?
KR
Keith.
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Bigman80
21-12-2018, 11:25
Thanks Oliver, and yes, already had thermal paste on order so will use that next time I dismantle. I have a 100Va Toroidy on the way to replace the 40Va in there at present and need to do the SA mounting so plenty of opportunities to apply the paste.
Do all of the signal cables from input to selector, selector to SA and SA to outputs need to be uncoiled?
KR
Keith.
Sent from my SM-G935F using TapatalkYes, you need that paste!
I kept my wiring separate for that reason. Alan suggested it's preferable when we spoke.
Stryder5
21-12-2018, 13:03
If I remember my heat transfer stuff a thick piece of material does not make a good heatsink. You need a large surface area, hence fins on commercial heatsinks.
Thick material will retain heat rather than dissipate it.
Gary
sq225917
18-01-2019, 22:12
Heres a balanced one....
https://flic.kr/p/2ehXqxp
Bigman80
18-01-2019, 22:38
Heres a balanced one....
https://flic.kr/p/2ehXqxpYours? That looks epic
sq225917
18-01-2019, 22:45
No, not mine, I'm happy with the Rc khozmo BPBP.
I
Pinnochio on diyauduo, he's selling it $600, cheap with those Goldpoints and that case.
Bigman80
18-01-2019, 23:27
No, not mine, I'm happy with the Rc khozmo BPBP.
I
Pinnochio on diyauduo, he's selling it $600, cheap with those Goldpoints and that case.Wow, yes, that's a very good price
Thinking about trying one of these, if one comes up for sale, but how big a risk is dc on the output? Having used valve pre I always follow the adage power amps on last , off first
Bigman80
24-02-2019, 12:38
Thinking about trying one of these, if one comes up for sale, but how big a risk is dc on the output? Having used valve pre I always follow the adage power amps on last , off firstYou should drop Steve a message. He's got enough bits to build three.
As for DC on the output, no idea but can't see a reason for there to be risk. A Techy type may answer that for you.
Bigman80
28-04-2019, 15:09
Finally, after what seems like an eternity, I now have a power button [emoji23][emoji23]
Wired up and the LED doesn't bloody work but I'm not changing it again. It turns on and off, that'll do me. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190428/8dda6e837be6d5ecf4c5fc151531b78b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190428/67180ea59eec4de95a7aa9641ab577fc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190428/856a056eed49a61e5982613c4d4c1579.jpg
Lol! Would love to hear it Oliver, that’s a nice looking case too! :respect:
Bigman80
28-04-2019, 15:33
Lol! Would love to hear it Oliver, that’s a nice looking case too! :respect:John, i urge you to build one mate. I would almost stake my life on it being a superb partner for the Avance.
Bigman80
28-04-2019, 15:33
Does look very smart.Thanks, Martin.
It looks like I now have a red led version coming my way so looks like I am replacing it lol.
Pepperamip
29-04-2019, 07:16
If you was none the wiser you would never know that was a self build. Lovely job Ollie
Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
Bigman80
29-04-2019, 07:56
If you was none the wiser you would never know that was a self build. Lovely job Ollie
Sent from my CLT-L09 using TapatalkThanks!
I'm very pleased with it in terms of performance & fit and finish.
Upgraded RCA sockets are in the horizon too. I wish I'd done it at the time so better late than never.
killie99
29-04-2019, 09:31
What RCA sockets are you going to use and what do you currently have fitted?
killie99
29-04-2019, 09:35
Have you thought about getting the front panel engraved/printed to show volume and selector options?
These guys are apparently very good and reasonably priced (I have no connection with the company) http://thebeast.co.uk/?page_id=21
Bigman80
29-04-2019, 10:13
Have you thought about getting the front panel engraved/printed to show volume and selector options?
These guys are apparently very good and reasonably priced (I have no connection with the company) http://thebeast.co.uk/?page_id=21
Hi K,
Yes i have given some thought to getting it marked up but hadn't come across that company before. I'll drop them a line and see what they can do for me. I have the Bigbottle Phonostage to do too!
The current RCS's are some Neutrik standard ones, I'll be swapping them for these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Valab-Nickel-Free-Gold-Plate-RCA-Socket-with-Pure-Copper-Conductor-Pin-2-pairs/254179312928?hash=item3b2e448520:g:lCoAAOSwPAxZ8fh G
I am a big fan of these ones. Great build quality and price. I have them in the phonostage too.
crimsondonkey
29-04-2019, 10:25
Looks fab. Hope to hear this at some point.
Bigman80
29-04-2019, 10:27
Looks fab. Hope to hear this at some point.Thanks Wayne, you're welcome to pop in (as is anyone really lol) to whenever we can find the time.
killie99
29-04-2019, 18:22
Hi K,
Yes i have given some thought to getting it marked up but hadn't come across that company before. I'll drop them a line and see what they can do for me. I have the Bigbottle Phonostage to do too!
The current RCS's are some Neutrik standard ones, I'll be swapping them for these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Valab-Nickel-Free-Gold-Plate-RCA-Socket-with-Pure-Copper-Conductor-Pin-2-pairs/254179312928?hash=item3b2e448520:g:lCoAAOSwPAxZ8fh G
I am a big fan of these ones. Great build quality and price. I have them in the phonostage too.
These look remarkably similar https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-X-CMC-vergoldete-RCA-Phono-CHASSIS-SOCKETS-Weibliche-professionelle-AMP-H-A1G2/192667521303?hash=item2cdbe11117:g:LFUAAOSwdHxbp0A y
The valab ones are great value and look the business when fitted. I used them on my DCB1 build. Looking good Oliver ! [emoji106][emoji106]
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Bigman80
29-04-2019, 18:38
These look remarkably similar https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-X-CMC-vergoldete-RCA-Phono-CHASSIS-SOCKETS-Weibliche-professionelle-AMP-H-A1G2/192667521303?hash=item2cdbe11117:g:LFUAAOSwdHxbp0A yAnd considerably cheaper!
Bigman80
29-04-2019, 18:38
The valab ones are great value and look the business when fitted. I used them on my DCB1 build. Looking good Oliver ! [emoji106][emoji106]
Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkThanks Andy, yes I'm very pleased with it.
Hi All
Just a bit of an update, new upgraded board.
Obbligatto Caps
Audio Note Tantalum resistors.
Larger Power Caps!!
Will fit the board when I receive 3 new caps.
http://i66.tinypic.com/ruwgm8.jpg
http://i67.tinypic.com/2j3h5at.jpg
Bigman80
11-06-2019, 09:51
Looking good Steve. This will be the best one yet, I am sure of it.
You must be able to knock these up in your sleep now Steve.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.3 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.