Question for any woodworkers ....

[killie99]

I want to fit captive nuts to the underside of the top-board of my turntable plinth (it's made of 20mm ply) as it's a PITA to have to remove the topboard to get at the nuts to change the armboard and would make the job much easier if it was just a matter of undoing the screws on the armboard. It's a custom made 401 plinth and I've no idea who made it. There's not a removable base on the plinth so access from underneath isn't an option to get to the nuts. Whats the best way of doing this? T-nuts or some other type of blind nut? Thanks in advance.

[killie99]

Thanks for the link. The brass ones? The steel ones look like they need to be used with metal? Do you just drill the appropriate size hole and knock these in with a hammer or do they need glued/bonded?

[bumpy]

Thanks for the link. The brass ones? The steel ones look like they need to be used with metal? Do you just drill the appropriate size hole and knock these in with a hammer or do they need glued/bonded?

Drill the appropriate hole first. I would not go straight for the hammer as the T nuts have a habit of pulling themselves off centre. First pull them into place using a bolt and washer from the other side, then when it becomes difficult to pull them any more you can use the hammer. Good luck.

[Primalsea]

I would second the use of top hat inserts but the key is to use either a pillar drill or a drill guide in order to ensure that the boreholes are perpendicular to the flat surface of the board.

http://amzn.eu/d/aPp9zWx

[YNWaN]

I would use T-nuts if you are going into ply. You can easily buy mild, or stainless, steel ones from eBay.

Threaded inserts are fine in context but are, inevitably, more demanding of the substrate they screw in to.

[killie99]

great, thanks. Ordered some of the steel type on RS.

[wee tee cee]

Stuart,
Hope I dont hi jack your thread but do any of the troops know of someone who could do the woodwork involved in stacking 57s.

Im ok with a saw but shitting it that I could squash a wee visitor if my diy frames fell over...

[bumpy]

I would second the use of top hat inserts but the key is to use either a pillar drill or a drill guide in order to ensure that the boreholes are perpendicular to the flat surface of the board.

http://amzn.eu/d/aPp9zWx

I used a pillar drill and even then my t nuts wanted to pull off centre. The spikes are the first thing to contact the wood and they are happy to burrow their way into the wrong place under the impact of a hammer. Start off by pulling not pushing :)

You may only get one chance to mess up your top board. Its very little extra effort to get it to go right first time. I talk from experience but feel free to ignore if you wish. :)

[oceanobsession]

Try these http://www.theinsertcompany.com/index.php I would recommend steel or stainless , lots of white metal types on ebay but they are weak

avoid brass . if you have access to a pillar drill you can cut the head of a bolt screw it into the insert with a lock nut and clamp the bolt into the chuck use a spanner on the lock nut to drive the threaded insert into place goes in straight that way . phil