View Full Version : Cheap transformer for valve experiment
Hi, I want to experiment with building a few different valve buffer stages.
I am looking for a transformer that gives 6.3V and 110V out, to construct a lampizator "totem pole" type circuit, also on the hunt for a ~300V
Anyone come across any for cheap recently, or maybe someone has one laying about that they are not using?
I have been looking around the usual websites but cannot seem to find any suitable ones, except for expensive ones on eBay.
//Jan
smurfbrain
11-04-2010, 10:12
have you had a look at
http://www.airlinktransformers.com/
or
http://www.radiotronics.co.uk/products.php?cat_id=1303
or
http://www.canterburywindings.co.uk/
First two are the cheapest. Airlink(theres section with custom trafos and prices) and CW will do a custom job.
have you had a look at
http://www.airlinktransformers.com/
or
http://www.radiotronics.co.uk/products.php?cat_id=1303
or
http://www.canterburywindings.co.uk/
First two are the cheapest. Airlink(theres section with custom trafos and prices) and CW will do a custom job.
Thanks, I am sure those thinks will come in handy for future projects,
however this particular project is under very thin shoestring constraints, I have to find the cheapest way possible to get ~180V DC and 6.3 or 12.6 either AC or DC.
Last night I was looking at this little circuit I pulled out of a cheap maplin solder station that had given up the ghost, it literally regulates the mains voltage using a BT136, I thought about connecting a rectifier to that and using that as my HT:stalks:. I came to my senses and kept thinking, then it struck me:bulb: those converter thingy's for using amurikan thingys, they must contain a mains transformer that gives out 110V right?, so technically nothing wrong with getting one of thoe for like a fiver off eBay and using that for the HT supply?, then a low voltage lighting transformer for the heater supply and I'd be in business for peanuts.
But just checking, the idea of using the mains voltage regulator, effectively a dimmer on a rectifier, that is really as wrong as it seems to me right? Certainly would be illegal in Denmark.
//Jan
I would lean towards the USA/Europe transformer given the choice.
You'd need a lot of regulation to get any kind of steady DC out of a triac dimmer control, and it may not work at all if you can't pull enough current through the triac to keep it conducting.
The USA/Europe adapters will most likely be modern switched power supplies - not ideal for audio but should work.
The old trick for this sort of thing was to find two old 6 or 12v transformers from an old piece of equipment and run them together so you have 230v - 6v - 230v. This would give you 230v rather than 110v, but you should be able to get a buffer circuit to work with any old voltage really. Or you could find 230v - 6v and 230v - 12v transformers to give you 230v - 6v - 110v.
Hope that helps.
Regards
Tom
I would lean towards the USA/Europe transformer given the choice.
You'd need a lot of regulation to get any kind of steady DC out of a triac dimmer control, and it may not work at all if you can't pull enough current through the triac to keep it conducting.
The USA/Europe adapters will most likely be modern switched power supplies - not ideal for audio but should work.
The old trick for this sort of thing was to find two old 6 or 12v transformers from an old piece of equipment and run them together so you have 230v - 6v - 230v. This would give you 230v rather than 110v, but you should be able to get a buffer circuit to work with any old voltage really. Or you could find 230v - 6v and 230v - 12v transformers to give you 230v - 6v - 110v.
Hope that helps.
Regards
Tom
Ah yeah, that's not a bad idea. I have to keep the final DC voltage under 300V though, that is the maximum of the valve I will be using
I had been thinking that the eu/usa converters these days were probably nasty SMPS devices and not straight transformers.
The key concept here is that it has to be well cheap, spending £40 on a transformer is just not on. If it turns out to be really super lovely then I may eventually build it with a nice transformer and nicer capacitors, etc.
I have this plan in the back of my head of having the boards from my 7510 in a nice chassis, valve output stage on the DAC, with a little relay that switches the input over to a valve based RIAA stage when the dac is turned off and a stepped attenuator going either straight to output RCA's or through another buffer stage. Thus having a complete pre amplifier with a RIAA stage and four digital inputs.
//J
Oooh, brainwave...
I have some old encapsulated PCB transformers, .5 VA or something, that are 6V output somewhere, so I could just get a 12V transformer for low voltage lighting, run that into the secondary windings of the little pcb transformer, and also into a rectifier, and then a rectifier on the other end of the pcb transformer, thus landing me with ~170V and ~14V DC, just what I need to do the job.. Tidy!
//J
Aha, I found a 12V PCB transformer, 6VA with two 120V primaries.
So here is how I propose to hook it up
http://www.snip.dk/temp/HTsupply.PNG
The 12V AC is going to come from one of those slimline low voltage lighting transformers that I picked up for £3, including delivery! :) It should be good for 60W i.e plenty, I reckon if I have that externally I should be able to fit the lampizator into a very small potting box.
//J
Thats the badger.
Make sure you monitor the heat from the LM317 - should be ok, but they can get pretty toasty when they have to drop a lot of volts - may need a dinky little heatsink.
Regards
Tom
EDIT: hang on a minute, if the second transformer is 240v primary and 6v secondary, and you feed 12v ac into its secondary, you'll have 480v at the end won't you?
Thats the badger.
Make sure you monitor the heat from the LM317 - should be ok, but they can get pretty toasty when they have to drop a lot of volts - may need a dinky little heatsink.
Regards
Tom
EDIT: hang on a minute, if the second transformer is 240v primary and 6v secondary, and you feed 12v ac into its secondary, you'll have 480v at the end won't you?
Yes, sorry it's a split bobbin either end, I will connect both the 12V windings in parallel to the incoming 12V and use one of the 120V windings on the other side it was just that I did'nt have a good symbol for that.
//Jan
Aha, I found a 12V PCB transformer, 6VA with two 120V primaries.
So here is how I propose to hook it up
http://www.snip.dk/temp/HTsupply.PNG
The 12V AC is going to come from one of those slimline low voltage lighting transformers that I picked up for £3, including delivery! :) It should be good for 60W i.e plenty, I reckon if I have that externally I should be able to fit the lampizator into a very small potting box.
//J
mm actually that second electrolytic on the heater supply is obviously not meant to be 10.000uF, 10uF should do it, Such a large one would blow the lm317T during charging I think.
//J
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