View Full Version : Incompetent turntable fettling
A few months ago I bought an AT1010 from Phonomac and after lots of faffing over the last couple of weeks I've finally started work on fitting it to my Linn LP12. As well as the arm, I also invested in a Vinyl Adventure Corvette tonearm cable (https://thevinyladventure.com/product/the-vinyl-adventure-corvette-tonearm-cable/). Though things were progressing slowly, they were going well .... until I got to drilling holes in the arm board.
I bought a beam compass to help with the marking out, and that worked a treat.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XA8MpVyrBFzG0vF2fTq6Gvw27Q_OerCnnP78SgtHvy2AGhs02s cN7oL3QuQef-lFi_MTre88OxXHics2ZVCYO8tLxkzsoazxpaP13J7RZE3469Hw GKzo6ezoBCSrfVZL7xY3gyVb509NkkkacOnOBcTnjpNoNZKrZz jC0z5jsltgaZFo2qJTKPyzPffBQMsD6WU80LAxzkKehMktCuo0 8DGwIkhB7u3zgsWMcLrWhax6g_GzEl9M-O4lplBTyHmNfrbCGpkKMnFsRIW6C4ztd8S9bR3tGVRngau-YANFf21FsFybZozhxBth0iiTYuC-ALG7gEH_0Bf_czBoZHHMwWwQmXf4qMbjUdJAaPqmFLqGiTNbNl 3oFu4_yaD-Gm6vrntPZh7xUdSV3eTD8qZnqhB5xT6nksiYQwEcJCbBFJX2NZ bvCiLZbhB52nXYPI_ZJSaoubGazY7yO-QzjlqO0Wo6pDem32CRQ8m_dSXxFBqJoCr05Sq_f9qsTw4cM___ A_T7VgygTY8hLMQ6GNZ7wggge6LgrK4rcLIxzrUXyxGkLi8j3A JpQIuxVwDMVQXCn4_b1dPEJI8m1_HtaC4u8U7TbyBNzzujpsPm kLR7r3yrJIQDqxVYT8CJi4INH48=w1369-h770-no
But then I foolishly decided to drill the armboard without first drilling a pilot hole. The result was a snapped arm board :doh:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HA7sPmNx-1ALuBqLG4mw5mjwG-QihllY8lm4OzPEDVQh4DnZJx3lOWbctp8mX22bKweJRvxT0gdW Sq9VwVZhT9UvryncX6R04MV3l4U-4RHNrjcmkhygyv8aMk7eKLht1xJMt8dm1zaXglYTeygoaevlhu tHJtfzrrIa7EGZZaa65E7DgU1bvRqD2XHYUjbn-hj3_qoVK2-8KHs0zp22k8mfxvjA5EyPs7mehIuxf0g4GQNPlSYrkR44sQwrl A5yEX45nAGmz4u998HC7F0m_il08txNrmtktRgvB3TmebygD0z WvfBPTnSl4aJfgeW9eMfypBuhVl7LfFcYKApg91KSpOUEt9wdG PV-8KTBD86awbyX5NRYJz5uwfN3PTHbiWOixCH-eAoEQtjqn0hm6DGRjCALo0_ofqbAHyYI51EVjr-21WhlSZeA0eq9gxSsArEykoupWYiGh9oNOngwdfrQzt016rS3Q 4K4q2AQsbDdWONetugvh3erEzAsbKk6C9q9scrq538yNzP0lFm DJxb0G01p3THV66t7ATdf9ZFDWh9_ysS66r0rmiFcH2GBkHtn5 8PHztL696q-KBP4ZS5Wjz7XirFBXWFdxaInVPpSethtSNrRGhSNRozxRs0=w1 369-h770-no
Vinyl Passion were great in supplying the blank arm board - but I didn't trust myself to try drilling another. So after a bit of a search, I found a supplier that would supply a board pre-cut for the AT-1010 (Konne (http://konne.xyz/)). It arrived today.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P8Nc1a9OGrPsC3KRX5rtQxmINSGSqlY_FTN-EkUZSrfSTOY8jjGuPYG0DCh-u2-3jolCacjPBVE_BRB4eQSw6J-R39-ptRS5SjHzI0Ftb1pQh__bQ8dq23TFG1E4k7dLuFqyaC6CjII__ Xdt7I23fk4HxDriYc6ZqZUaCDWpJJwGDVlShpEwC0iCjZi3u58 BxV0ut6iDFA8fih_N7mrm5CmkkcMwqhBeY8QAfm3-rC3gdFbcNfzlrLtp5JVsboEpAOGPOjdFyxUoaV7gFOrMiMlFnH MCCEs4OUDc1ocqzROs2UzVLjPb-7xP75PuBK6jvPkZJHjB51zEJDqZdgsETs_PjtRadKF2nJjFSyF QmzWEtMy2O1zIxR017RzsZFW-zJSU1RAgW7Bqmv95jqrg8vSDPqLlwhczl_5XjgeZy0HGSq8ktn s1v0UoWGe_3N1y0tVhVaKFxuqZGZUsE2Vl0SjMBEgZewqf1IF0 9UOAYmWObmIZPkrLXthOK0GHc2VGZGRnPtDSZUXAa5Tvnmjyy9 GGYrM64KOkNYpNJ2wZ9-9eLnYxr00SedW9k7H6X7BiIph3eersvFO047rWSw3pCYoCxZmx o8PY-dQS2m0oG6CeQJmunbPjzyUiT3tFnA=w434-h770-no
I was all set to fit it .... until I realised I didn't have the right screws to attach the arm collar to the board. I was hoping Screwfix would have something suitable, but no. Back to ebay for some counter sunk stainless bolts - they should arrive Wednesday.
I was hoping to get the arm fitted this weekend, but it's going to be next weekend. It's slow progress, but I have to admit that I'm enjoying myself, and I'm so looking forward to hearing the end results.
I feel your pain, my other name is Sausage Fingers :doh:
these things happen,at least your not frightened to have a go,its the best way to learn imo,all be it sometimes expensive.
ive got a PMAT-1010 coming so i will be interested in how you like it. :cool:
Love the title of the post. I would be just as inept!:doh:
It looks like the first armboard was acrylic which is more brittle than people often appreciate. It’s not so much that you needed a pilot hole as you need a sharp drill (or forstner bit), not a spade bit as you may use for wood) and a gentle drilling pressure with the acrylic backed by a bit of waste wood to stop cracking as the drill goes through the last bit. The second armboard looks like an acrylic/stone mix like Corian or Hi-Macs. This is significantly heavier than acrylic, but is also a lot stronger and less likely to crack.
Edit: it could be Staron too but all these silica/acrylic composites are very similar.
More editing: looking at the two armboard the position of the arm mounting hole appear to be in very different positions with the new one being much more toward the edge....?
Yes it is Corian. And yes, the positions are different. In fact I think off centre will be better as it will keep the arm connection away from the cross piece in the corner of the base.
Bigman80
08-09-2018, 22:39
A few months ago I bought an AT1010 from Phonomac and after lots of faffing over the last couple of weeks I've finally started work on fitting it to my Linn LP12. As well as the arm, I also invested in a Vinyl Adventure Corvette tonearm cable (https://thevinyladventure.com/product/the-vinyl-adventure-corvette-tonearm-cable/). Though things were progressing slowly, they were going well .... until I got to drilling holes in the arm board.
I bought a beam compass to help with the marking out, and that worked a treat.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XA8MpVyrBFzG0vF2fTq6Gvw27Q_OerCnnP78SgtHvy2AGhs02s cN7oL3QuQef-lFi_MTre88OxXHics2ZVCYO8tLxkzsoazxpaP13J7RZE3469Hw GKzo6ezoBCSrfVZL7xY3gyVb509NkkkacOnOBcTnjpNoNZKrZz jC0z5jsltgaZFo2qJTKPyzPffBQMsD6WU80LAxzkKehMktCuo0 8DGwIkhB7u3zgsWMcLrWhax6g_GzEl9M-O4lplBTyHmNfrbCGpkKMnFsRIW6C4ztd8S9bR3tGVRngau-YANFf21FsFybZozhxBth0iiTYuC-ALG7gEH_0Bf_czBoZHHMwWwQmXf4qMbjUdJAaPqmFLqGiTNbNl 3oFu4_yaD-Gm6vrntPZh7xUdSV3eTD8qZnqhB5xT6nksiYQwEcJCbBFJX2NZ bvCiLZbhB52nXYPI_ZJSaoubGazY7yO-QzjlqO0Wo6pDem32CRQ8m_dSXxFBqJoCr05Sq_f9qsTw4cM___ A_T7VgygTY8hLMQ6GNZ7wggge6LgrK4rcLIxzrUXyxGkLi8j3A JpQIuxVwDMVQXCn4_b1dPEJI8m1_HtaC4u8U7TbyBNzzujpsPm kLR7r3yrJIQDqxVYT8CJi4INH48=w1369-h770-no
But then I foolishly decided to drill the armboard without first drilling a pilot hole. The result was a snapped arm board :doh:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HA7sPmNx-1ALuBqLG4mw5mjwG-QihllY8lm4OzPEDVQh4DnZJx3lOWbctp8mX22bKweJRvxT0gdW Sq9VwVZhT9UvryncX6R04MV3l4U-4RHNrjcmkhygyv8aMk7eKLht1xJMt8dm1zaXglYTeygoaevlhu tHJtfzrrIa7EGZZaa65E7DgU1bvRqD2XHYUjbn-hj3_qoVK2-8KHs0zp22k8mfxvjA5EyPs7mehIuxf0g4GQNPlSYrkR44sQwrl A5yEX45nAGmz4u998HC7F0m_il08txNrmtktRgvB3TmebygD0z WvfBPTnSl4aJfgeW9eMfypBuhVl7LfFcYKApg91KSpOUEt9wdG PV-8KTBD86awbyX5NRYJz5uwfN3PTHbiWOixCH-eAoEQtjqn0hm6DGRjCALo0_ofqbAHyYI51EVjr-21WhlSZeA0eq9gxSsArEykoupWYiGh9oNOngwdfrQzt016rS3Q 4K4q2AQsbDdWONetugvh3erEzAsbKk6C9q9scrq538yNzP0lFm DJxb0G01p3THV66t7ATdf9ZFDWh9_ysS66r0rmiFcH2GBkHtn5 8PHztL696q-KBP4ZS5Wjz7XirFBXWFdxaInVPpSethtSNrRGhSNRozxRs0=w1 369-h770-no
Vinyl Passion were great in supplying the blank arm board - but I didn't trust myself to try drilling another. So after a bit of a search, I found a supplier that would supply a board pre-cut for the AT-1010 (Konne (http://konne.xyz/)). It arrived today.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P8Nc1a9OGrPsC3KRX5rtQxmINSGSqlY_FTN-EkUZSrfSTOY8jjGuPYG0DCh-u2-3jolCacjPBVE_BRB4eQSw6J-R39-ptRS5SjHzI0Ftb1pQh__bQ8dq23TFG1E4k7dLuFqyaC6CjII__ Xdt7I23fk4HxDriYc6ZqZUaCDWpJJwGDVlShpEwC0iCjZi3u58 BxV0ut6iDFA8fih_N7mrm5CmkkcMwqhBeY8QAfm3-rC3gdFbcNfzlrLtp5JVsboEpAOGPOjdFyxUoaV7gFOrMiMlFnH MCCEs4OUDc1ocqzROs2UzVLjPb-7xP75PuBK6jvPkZJHjB51zEJDqZdgsETs_PjtRadKF2nJjFSyF QmzWEtMy2O1zIxR017RzsZFW-zJSU1RAgW7Bqmv95jqrg8vSDPqLlwhczl_5XjgeZy0HGSq8ktn s1v0UoWGe_3N1y0tVhVaKFxuqZGZUsE2Vl0SjMBEgZewqf1IF0 9UOAYmWObmIZPkrLXthOK0GHc2VGZGRnPtDSZUXAa5Tvnmjyy9 GGYrM64KOkNYpNJ2wZ9-9eLnYxr00SedW9k7H6X7BiIph3eersvFO047rWSw3pCYoCxZmx o8PY-dQS2m0oG6CeQJmunbPjzyUiT3tFnA=w434-h770-no
I was all set to fit it .... until I realised I didn't have the right screws to attach the arm collar to the board. I was hoping Screwfix would have something suitable, but no. Back to ebay for some counter sunk stainless bolts - they should arrive Wednesday.
I was hoping to get the arm fitted this weekend, but it's going to be next weekend. It's slow progress, but I have to admit that I'm enjoying myself, and I'm so looking forward to hearing the end results.Did you go for a Phonomac fettled one or is it standard?
Sent from my VKY-L09 using Tapatalk
Phonomac fettled :eyebrows:
Bigman80
08-09-2018, 23:40
Phonomac fettled :eyebrows:I presume you heard it prior to buying one?
I really enjoy mine.
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To be honest, I didn't hear it beforehand. Where am I going to hear one of these arms in an LP12? I've been working myself up to changing the arm for a while. I'd been considering a Jelco SA-750D but hadn't bitten the bullet. Then I read the reviews of the Phonomac fettled AT-1010 and it seemed to tick all the boxes for me: A good quality arm, with a detatchable headshell (I want to experiment more with cartridges), that wasn't going to break the bank. I also liked the fact that is was something a little unusual. If it doesn't work out I expect I'll be able to sell the arm on ... though I'm obviously hoping that's not going to be the case.
paulf-2007
09-09-2018, 18:56
Not wanting to teach anyone how to suck eggs, why waste money on that silly thing with a point on to mark where the hole goes. Get a flat piece of wood, 6mm thick will do, drill a hole the size of the spindle, then measure the pivot to spindle distance and drill a hole the size of a pencil, job done and costs pennies if anything at all. It stays flat and more accurate than wobbling about on the spindle.
Bigman80
09-09-2018, 19:11
To be honest, I didn't hear it beforehand. Where am I going to hear one of these arms in an LP12? I've been working myself up to changing the arm for a while. I'd been considering a Jelco SA-750D but hadn't bitten the bullet. Then I read the reviews of the Phonomac fettled AT-1010 and it seemed to tick all the boxes for me: A good quality arm, with a detatchable headshell (I want to experiment more with cartridges), that wasn't going to break the bank. I also liked the fact that is was something a little unusual. If it doesn't work out I expect I'll be able to sell the arm on ... though I'm obviously hoping that's not going to be the case.I just wondered if you been to hear one anywhere, doesn't have to be on am LP12!!!
I am sure you are going to be more than happy with the arm.
Congratulations on your purchase.
Sent from my VKY-L09 using Tapatalk
Not wanting to teach anyone how to suck eggs, why waste money on that silly thing with a point on to mark where the hole goes. Get a flat piece of wood, 6mm thick will do, drill a hole the size of the spindle, then measure the pivot to spindle distance and drill a hole the size of a pencil, job done and costs pennies if anything at all. It stays flat and more accurate than wobbling about on the spindle.
The Beam Compass was purchased second hand for £15, and is a thing of beauty in my opinion. It made the job very easy, and I'm sure I'll find use of it again in the future.
I am sure you are going to be more than happy with the arm.
Congratulations on your purchase.
Sent from my VKY-L09 using Tapatalk
Thank you. And thank you for your review which first brought my attention to the arm.
Bigman80
09-09-2018, 20:43
Thank you. And thank you for your review which first brought my attention to the arm.Ah! That's nice to know. Glad to have helped.
Sent from my VKY-L09 using Tapatalk
The screws have arrived. :mex:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dojM7sH2LyOUJnq2zFizSiYgIycdjDOHBl4FRQ9a7Phor9xnse A06uVzwI1sj1UjbSMlgoDUDWfSYuZoIrSjQHdSL007jVfNcv6m TNs-2ySL2zEXX1dwED97bL9oh1MQ9O_upAbX_OuU-pbQxT5NHGnM6D_2rPcB9sMgxHg3v1mnxfuL-z1kH4gEwkOGQYQ_izRCIwGhDDZg0MrhU46Qra35ldmcfzwAKxT HmJkOvAgtyuN4CAa3ekcZJz2ZtiULRxr05i5it7FbVJq5TaHkV Jf5qtQND8fPOHNoZaRRKby-yvKtcxHIrdcYY-WQM15_XCr57_G9YEpjcvVf3jX4T9yZnmQON6ooPGjJaeiCoNMu vzUgNfDrrOugyc0DnBP_5nZYzcL3Y6oS4flct9tRXyU2IYX0jU P6RqX5GSnQu0Zmi3j4VmXHgHhLhFyS07khkyJuZnCqFTInpfN2 MU6leDiwCbwFiQNfUi_5qpW7JfmVu2YWImaYt5qKrxngvp3QHA KBCpd4dyyRtU7EgDVBQSiSKIlMlZLUKr2SOvmOy1_vernMZUeS 8h3ohokCMSEQohIFWdBCAc9h4jLdzmoVEnmXD7oUWgAemM9N2i FbcoWVGaOdFDXfn2K4YvpeVBY=w1369-h770-no
And the arms is in!!!!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/R-hRG0OcY_PsQh-X59iRJrjxA4Pu_re7Pjq6PCAg5OnbHRwojjl83xuSQ_qcqZeh7 b9Jxa8S_g9GiqcwIchuZ_3n9h_8CVLrRixZofis3hRoI3_zr40 4fPG7AlRLoQM8GGUkY0Li4marQr89eMS_bH-z3IMzoD0NF4N9HvFK80xKZmGE3CfPjyB29Q8yKaiSnw2kyiLuL XVeK5QcgPZxIEjyIU-k24912JR2Q-GWBtrhA-bB7YhOPNq3MFRtlfj4BL49afSo0o40rjgjLNRldy7nFcpGYLuW gUhBusvOVVjtlpFc-BB8WLSuimCxmyv8VRXjG8oqh4YhkBA4dqPCPbjlKkvhZp1UWqC TTprCmFQsw2Me26gNUH1BfK4Ytx5lCSxbmjsUJiQkBzB9VM0Sq-A9oCt4Aj7PDhdoTbV0MO_xzbdVQWxqHMnzXE4PT1z2wvZZ0K9o Evz025b-fmkov0eXzuAfiaAyymJI5-0-D9_Q74AASXM4Pe7R-i5ai_iuBMMC0muAVN4TrD1frtFH0MGPq1P0UlPmxpWU1wkQmjR 5iGxAkGFKkZ7wDTcxBi_XpvTwn9eO00fk6SjFdcY7BN-R3_Ja8SJV1LejDM8Sf5EKQKpajlX0oio1tRQ9aoI=w434-h770-no
The arm being a little further to the right, and of course being a little different in weight to the Akito it's replacing, meant some adjustment to the suspension. But with that done all is looking good. I'll need to be careful of the positioning to ensure the arm clears the lid when it's refitted. So all good .... except ...
... no leads in the head shell. Bugger, something else I didn't check ... I did mention the incompetence thing before didn't I. However, looking good to everything being finished next weekend.
There's music coming out of my speakers - and the source is my AT1010 armed LP12. I've ordered some silver headshell leads, and they are taking a little longer than anticipated to arrive. Today I remembered where I had another headshell and by scavenging the leads from that I've got it up and running.
To get the arm horizontal and still provide enough clearance for the arm to get off the rest and onto the record - whilst still being able to close the lid on their hinges has proved impossible. The arm lift just extends too far forward. However, if I remove the lid from it's hinges and lower in on it covers the deck nicely and is clear of everything. So the hinges are off.
I also had to be a little careful with the position of the arm as if it's rotated too far clockwise (from above) the arm cable fouls the brace in the lower corner of the deck case. It took me a couple of goes to get it positioned so that it was clear and the suspension could move cleanly.
One last issue to over come - I now have a main hum. It's not obvious when playing, but is very obvious between tracks and when the needle is off the record. If I touch the outer cover of the rca connector going into the phono amp, the hum is greatly reduced. So I think a problem within the turntable set up.
However the good part - Once the needle is in the groove the music sounds very good. The two most obvious improvements are a very nice tight bass - more of it but very well controlled; and much sharper imaging. I'm listening to Peter Gabriel at the moment (His first solo album with Solsbury Hill) and he is very solidly placed between the two speakers, with the instruments clearly arrayed around him.
So I'm getting there.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1PSSJgI0MRNz0F30pUGVizeM3shWgk6U-7H8B4AHmNL7QV6XoP2FjDfHln0f7HxCAMIxzYy8PmiTwfJVH2p MKKCKxRG6sSlJI8_BoGdbHY1rWjj1QPw-FaznITuYJVOvijMmbjYOwm9xGDMRESGd7UHFhc94kN4l73jPSs 9yW_kvhtt96ZJLgUgL4gwxX3fOr_k25aEpp6-r3JW7EnG_JEzMGDcJ3io_gHtPTYAHgqyeIFfebhkqVSbWp3GF7 IEmPuW18fusNH9P9dUZQ9QhkFbdqSyofCbBqhoHPPic-4qAuS7O_NrI66fi8X7nSQVbqk3jRZHwxqv9tSrRQNiDbqhn26Q _2gUGHTxVQ7nOosMJ2ju_b4mX7yR3O11IJ9GQxuJGIaQ4RqKuO Dr1prmeCJAMPTfBYoNDG3qJU1P1mun_yj1JLGmFKdovNo7-FLzGi9ZSwZqOdfseYzsmZIEjCrl0X1Yukuz368wE3A6Xz-Ef3oJytz0x5C4rTMNsuaM8ca-Yv3SNqbhxfE3oGe2wBR7I-b6_WxDLcYOePLT5Mr2OmCOtVU9Uw7xLLSk72R1gE99cMWxaeBI KdT3UZY4DYvV6eJH3Gr6txVOgRBzjiuUcQQZlJQqfLSsbU7gbU dzJcYOhHDXkGnL7prz0nuhX1K16UrfKy4_icC9kWyYcDYxhEpU huWS4Ijvu=w1346-h757-no
I think I may have fixed the hum. I think I didn't have the phono amp connected correctly. I've just had a little ferkle and reconnect and the hum had gone.
Oh and another improvement - greatly reduced surface noise. Unfortunately the quality of my photos hasn't improved. I'll have to get the camera out and do the deck better justice than my phone pictures provide.
Looking good Reggie :eyebrows:
Bigman80
30-09-2018, 21:54
Great arm.
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I've had a couple of hours free this afternoon and have been listening to records on my Linn LP12. I am so pleased with the results of my fettling. I am an incompetent buffoon, and fitting the arm should have been a lot more straightforward than I made it, but the end result is splendid. The music sounds wonderful, well controlled, precise and musical. Just what I was after. And the AT1010 is a joy to use. It has a very solid feel to it. In the past I've felt a little nervous around my turntable, always concerned I may jog something and damage a record. But that's not the case with the AT1010. It feels reassuringly well engineered.
First on was Jethro Tull - Songs From the Woods (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYGEG15mASQ). The clarity of the backing singers gave a great incite into how the songs were put together, and for the first time I found myself appreciating the folk roots to the Tull sound. Then a live Miles Davis / Herbie Hancock LP and the rhythm and musicality just left me with a huge grin on my face.
I am so grateful that I saw @Bigman80's review on the Phonomac AT-1010 (https://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?54277-Phonomac-AT-1010-Tonearm-review), as the arm really has transformed my Linn LP12. A great upgrade from the Akito arm it replaced. Phonomac's has been really good to buy from too - and he obviously knows his stuff because the arm is wonderful.
Bigman80
06-10-2018, 17:42
I've had a couple of hours free this afternoon and have been listening to records on my Linn LP12. I am so pleased with the results of my fettling. I am an incompetent buffoon, and fitting the arm should have been a lot more straightforward than I made it, but the end result is splendid. The music sounds wonderful, well controlled, precise and musical. Just what I was after. And the AT1010 is a joy to use. It has a very solid feel to it. In the past I've felt a little nervous around my turntable, always concerned I may jog something and damage a record. But that's not the case with the AT1010. It feels reassuringly well engineered.
First on was Jethro Tull - Songs From the Woods (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYGEG15mASQ). The clarity of the backing singers gave a great incite into how the songs were put together, and for the first time I found myself appreciating the folk roots to the Tull sound. Then a live Miles Davis / Herbie Hancock LP and the rhythm and musicality just left me with a huge grin on my face.
I am so grateful that I saw @Bigman80's review on the Phonomac AT-1010 (https://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?54277-Phonomac-AT-1010-Tonearm-review), as the arm really has transformed my Linn LP12. A great upgrade from the Akito arm it replaced. Phonomac's has been really good to buy from too - and he obviously knows his stuff because the arm is wonderful.I'm just glad people are starting to listen to me about how good the arm is.
Angus is a really knowledgeable guy, I'd border on calling him a tonearm specialist actually. What he doesn't know about tonearms isn't worth knowing.
Enjoy the arm and the music!
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I think I may have finally tracked down the source of a hum I couldn't seem to get rid of. I ordered some silver headshell leads, and these have finally arrived. I've just fitted them, and the first thing I noticed is the hum has gone. Lovely arm.
Once again, I am so very glad I bought my Phonomac AT-1010 arm, it's taken my LP12 to another level.
Wakefield Turntables
02-12-2018, 18:03
Great thread Rob, a very pleasurable read. Don't be so hard on yourself, we all make mistakes, the more you fettle the more you learn. Keep experimenting and have fun!
Thank you. I will. :). The next turntable project may be a new plinth now I feel a little more comfortable taking the LP12 apart.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/k~wAAOSw50JbL5Or/s-l500.jpg
Wakefield Turntables
02-12-2018, 19:09
I enjoyed my LP12 when I had one but I soon grew to dislike to suspension and all the vodoo that's put out about these TT's.
I wouldn't have chosen it, but I bought it on ebay for my father (someone at a music club persuaded him that that's what he needed). He had it for a few months and decided he much preferred his Lenco GL75. So he gave it to me. I had a Linn Axis at the time, so sold that and kept the LP12. If I'm honest, it didn't seem to be an upgrade to me soundwise.
Part of me tells me I should sell it and get something more interesting. Strangely, the more I fettle it, the less I think I'd get for it if I sold it (I think people who buy Linn believe the Voodoo, and will only want one with "official" Linn upgrades), but the more I like it.
This is the second "upgrade" I've made to the deck. I had a Heed Orbit 1 PSU fitted about 18 months ago. That didn't make a huge sonic difference, but gave me 45rpm. Sound wise, cartridge (Goldring 1042, Denon 110, to Hana SL) and phono stage upgrades have made a much bigger improvement.
The greatest sonic surprise I've had with turntables was getting a Sony EQ-2 MM battery phono amp. It was so much better than the Graham Slee Communicator it replaced, and the lesson I've taken from that was the importance of having a good phono amp (I currently have a FireBottle MC/MM which is great).
So, I'm liking my LP12 more and more these days. The Audio Technica arm makes it a pleasure to use, and sounds great. I'm hoping it will be a great platform for some cartridge experiments. And with a change of plinth, it will even look rather nice too.
Wakefield Turntables
02-12-2018, 20:02
I wouldn't have chosen it, but I bought it on ebay for my father (someone at a music club persuaded him that that's what he needed). He had it for a few months and decided he much preferred his Lenco GL75. So he gave it to me. I had a Linn Axis at the time, so sold that and kept the LP12. If I'm honest, it didn't seem to be an upgrade to me soundwise.
Part of me tells me I should sell it and get something more interesting. Strangely, the more I fettle it, the less I think I'd get for it if I sold it (I think people who buy Linn believe the Voodoo, and will only want one with "official" Linn upgrades), but the more I like it.
This is the second "upgrade" I've made to the deck. I had a Heed Orbit 1 PSU fitted about 18 months ago. That didn't make a huge sonic difference, but gave me 45rpm. Sound wise, cartridge (Goldring 1042, Denon 110, to Hana SL) and phono stage upgrades have made a much bigger improvement.
The greatest sonic surprise I've had with turntables was getting a Sony EQ-2 MM battery phono amp. It was so much better than the Graham Slee Communicator it replaced, and the lesson I've taken from that was the importance of having a good phono amp (I currently have a FireBottle MC/MM which is great).
So, I'm liking my LP12 more and more these days. The Audio Technica arm makes it a pleasure to use, and sounds great. I'm hoping it will be a great platform for some cartridge experiments. And with a change of plinth, it will even look rather nice too.
It's all good. I like the fact your Dad got rid of the Linn for a Lenco which probably costs 5-10% the price.
The LP12 was around £450 on ebay, so not a lot more than a GL75 in a decent state.
Pete The Cat
08-12-2018, 11:22
Been enjoying your thread. Over the past 5 years I've refurbed a TD150 and a Townshend Rock. I developed some basics skills and knowledge on the former and then used them to better effect on the latter. Some would see all this as distraction and inconvenience but I find the engagement that you get from DIY is one of vinyl's appeals. As with many things there's a satisfaction from having put something of yourself into it. Whatever one thinks of the LP12's performance the scope for upgrading seems boundless so as long as you're enjoying the sound I'd be tempted to keep going with her.
Pete
Thanks Pete. I think I will stick with it. Especially if the plinth update comes about.
Fiddlefye
06-03-2019, 22:07
It looks like the first armboard was acrylic which is more brittle than people often appreciate. It’s not so much that you needed a pilot hole as you need a sharp drill (or forstner bit), not a spade bit as you may use for wood) and a gentle drilling pressure with the acrylic backed by a bit of waste wood to stop cracking as the drill goes through the last bit. The second armboard looks like an acrylic/stone mix like Corian or Hi-Macs. This is significantly heavier than acrylic, but is also a lot stronger and less likely to crack.
Edit: it could be Staron too but all these silica/acrylic composites are very similar.
More editing: looking at the two armboard the position of the arm mounting hole appear to be in very different positions with the new one being much more toward the edge....?For drilling these materials I like to clamp a bit of sacrificial plywood or something underneath to give support. Better safe than sorry!
For drilling these materials I like to clamp a bit of sacrificial plywood or something underneath to give support. Better safe than sorry!
I think there are many better ways of doing it, than the way I tried. Clamping would have been good. A pilot hole would have been better.
For those interested in this on going saga:
I've been working more on the amplifier side of things recently. I've struggled with a hum that would go for a while and then reappear. I tried a different cartridge (OC9ML/II), playing around with cable and PSU placement, and finally an alternative phono amp. The latter has fixed it, so it looks like the Firebottle phono amp is to go.
I think the Firebottle has a sweeter sound than the Emotiva XPS-1 (brought from Struth of these precincts) I have in place now, but the hum is just too draining. I've come to the conclusion that the Firebottle just doesn't suit my system. Alan's had the amp back and could find no fault in it, so it must just be a compatibility issue.
Also I've recently, added a Audio Technica AT630 (from that Sherwood sold here) and am very pleased with the result. So I think the next step is probably a better SUT. I'll also get the Hana SL back in for a while to see how that works with the Emotiva/AT630 combination.
I still want to replace the plinth, but I will probably wait until I've finished my experiments on the amp side of thing.
So still fettling .... incompetently ... it's the only way I know.
After a little time mulling over my options and trying to come up with a plan of attack, I've finally started assembling parts for my next bit of turntable fettling. The more I've looked, the more options have appeared. So there is quite a lot I'd like to try.
However, I've come to realise that if I want to experiment the first thing I need is a platform to make it easier for me to dismantle and reassemble my LP12. Linn maintenance stands, seem to be a little like hens teeth, so I've been looking into a DIY alternative. For a while I was seriously considering building a rotating stand based on a motorcycle engine stand (https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/sealey-mes01-motorcycle-engine-stand---single-/).
https://dccf75d8gej24.cloudfront.net/images/products/02/020112405/5B24D058-EAC4-4318-A8CD-A8DE36BAE8F7-large.jpg
But it's just a little too small.
Then a couple of weeks ago I was looking through the MachineMart website (where I'd found the engine stand) and I spotted a simpler and perhaps more flexible option. A pair of table legs used to build work tables (https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cwts1-work-table-supports-pair/). At £36 a pair, it seemed too good an option not to try it.
At about the same time I picked up a plinth at a very cheap price. I don't think it will be my final plinth, but it gives me a platform from which I can try things out before doing them on my main deck. I picked up the legs yesterday, and I think they are going to work just fine. They should hold the turntable securely at a convenient height and allow me access to both top and bottom at the same time.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/921/DvVPEH.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/921/nbyDc4.jpg
So the next step will be to:
add a brace across the lower cross bars of the legs to secure them in place at the right distance apart. I'm not sure at the moment whether to use a couple of bars, or a piece of thick board. I'll probably try both.
get some neoprene strips to put along the top of the frame to protect the turntable
rig up a clamping mechanism.
The latest collection of parts arrive in the week. This time bits for the maintenance stand rather than the turntable. Namely some T bolts with "Knob nuts" :whistle:, and a roll of self-adhesive cushioned neoprene strip.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/320x240q90/924/rDP19M.jpg
So it was time for a little assembly this afternoon - with the addition of some odd bits of wood I had knocking around. First the T bolts were attached to the top of the two frame legs. Then two strips of wood were cut to size and then two holes drilled in each to align with the T-bolts. Then neoprene strips were stuck to the top of the frame legs, and the undersides of the wooden strips.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/320x240q90/921/FrKXj1.jpg
Then a piece of board was drilled and bolted across the frame leg cross bars to provide a little stability, and the whole lot assembled, using my spare LP12 chassis as a guide.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/922/WioTGA.jpg
Well this works .... but ....
It's a little less stable than I was hoping. It probably needs an additional cross member or two.
Also I hadn't appreciated how narrow the chassis sides are - which means there's only a thin strip by which to hold the chassis - that is, with the current arrangement the clamp is just pinching the outside edge of the chassis sides which isn't as stable as I thought it would be. Perhaps this image shows what I mean:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/924/rZ9Eep.jpg
Also in hindsight, I think I should have got thinner neoprene strips. I got thick strips, because .... well .. it more cushioning. But now I've tried it, I think thin neoprene would have been fine (it just has to protect the surface of the chassis, and both it and the frame are very smooth and flat - there's no unevenness that thicker cushioning would help with. The problem with thinker neoprene is that makes the whole sandwich within the clamp thicker - and the bolts are only just long enough.
I'm wondering now whether it would be better just to use a couple of G clamps on each side as they will be less likely to get in the way and can be adjusted more easily.
One thing I am very please about is how easy it was to dismantle once I'd finished having a play. As I've used bolts throughout, it was very easy to take it all apart - and the whole lot just collapses down to flat pack.
So all in all, a good step forward but a little more fettling to do. I'm tempted to get the next set of parts order for the turntable now, but I think I'll give it a week for me to have a think about whether I need to do more work on the stand before jumping forward to the next stage of the project.
I should also mention the developments in my system up stream of the turntable itself. I recently purchased a Luxman AD8000 SUT from Hermit via this forum. David at MCRU made up a short run of Corvette Arm Cable to run between the SUT and the Phono Amp (still the Emotiva XPS-1). The result of which has been another step up in quality. I've had my Hana SL cartridge in for a while now and it's singing beautifully. However, I'll get the OC9ML/II back in, in the not too distant future and have another listen to that. I think now my AD8000/XPS-1 combination now sounds better than the Firebottle Plus (I really must get around to selling the later).
For the first time in my chronic case of audiophilia I'm enjoying listening to LPs more that digital. I think I've got a good digital setup - but there's just something more alive and engaging to the sound I'm getting from my turntable now. I finding I'm even spending the ridiculous amounts needed for new vinyl without wincing - as the resulting music is so enjoyable. And I've falling back in love with trawling through second hand record shops.
A new set of clamps arrived in the week, so I've had a chance to try them out this week.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/320x240q90/923/YmPwrt.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/320x240q90/922/qnu5Ve.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/320x240q90/922/mpbIMn.jpg
This is a much better solution. The clamping is easier to fix in place, is more flexible, and still holds the plinth firmly in place. The clamps cost as much as the leg frames - but I think I'll find other uses for them so not a problem.
A little tidying up to do (I'll have to get the sandpaper out later)
So. Now I need to spend some money and buy my next set of mods for the LP12.
After a lot of mulling as to my next upgrade, I've gone and ordered a Stack Audio Sub-Chasis (https://stackaudio.co.uk/serene-sub-chassis-for-lp12/).
https://stackaudio.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/sub-chassis-1.png
I'd been considering replacing the top plate after reading a couple of reviews like this (https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/fdd2e8_295e3e99a00949258ae124fe5b3dedea.pdf). But on doing a little more research and reading a few negative reviews, I decided to leave that for now. At £450 to £800 (Stack Audio Serene Ultimate (https://stackaudio.co.uk/serene-top-plates-for-lp12/) and Tiger Paw Khan (https://www.tiger-paw.com/khan) respectively), that seems like too much of a punt for my next step.
A new chassis seems to be a safer bet and a little less pocket stretching at the moment. My choice of arm has restricted the choice a little, as I need a plinth that will take a standard fixing arm board. So options like the Tiger Paw aKula (https://www.tiger-paw.com/akula-sub-chassis), Analogue Innovations Sole (http://www.analogueinnovation.com/page4.htm) or Linn Kore are a no go. So the two main choices came down to the Stack Audio, and the Vinyl Passion Unity (http://www.vinylpassion.com/Upgrades/Unity/index.html).
I like the look of the Stack Audio kit, and they answered a couple of queries I had quickly and easily, so I plumped for that one. It's also the cheaper of the two, so that made the choice a little easier.
I'm looking forward to being able to compare the new sub-chassis to the Cirkus I currently have. I hope that the fact that I'm fitting it myself will allow me to swap the two back and forth to do a decent comparison (rather than the: send it to a dealer to make the change, try and remember what it used to sound like and compare that memory to how it plays a couple of weeks later type of comparison).
However it turns out, I'm looking forward to a little more fettling and of course - finding out whether my new maintenance stand works as I hope it will
Another weekend - another opportunity for incompetence.
My new Stack Audio Sub-Chassis (https://stackaudio.co.uk/product/serene-sub-chassis/) and Base Board (https://stackaudio.co.uk/product/serene-baseboard/) arrived in the week; the latter being a bit of a last minute decision after a short conversation with Theo Stack via email. Excellent service so far from Theo.
So my first chance to use my maintenance stand and almost a disaster straight away as the two legs moved apart and I almost lost the deck down between them. So first job, a cross brace to ensure that doesn't happen again.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/320x240q90/922/mgJgs8.jpg
Then with the deck now securely in place I could take the base board off and start firkling (having already removed the arm, and platters).
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/320x240q90/922/GR4n6x.jpg
First thing I found was that the bearing and sub-chassic look original. I seemed to recall the seller mentioning Cirkus, but it must have been another upgrade. It didn't take too long to take the arm board off, the cross member, and then remove the springs. And the old sub-chassis was out. With the two out and side by side, it was obvious which looked the better engineered. And it was also clear which was the more acoustically inert.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/320x240q90/921/wfa84X.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/320x240q90/923/2UcetR.jpg
So then I started the re-assembly. I bought some new springs from Audio Affair as well last week, so fitted them. All was going well .... until I came to fitting the arm board. This image shows the problem:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/320x240q90/924/VbSxO2.jpg
The small screw is one of three that have been holding my Konne arm board to the original sub-chassis. It's short and 2.5M. The longer screw is the one supplied by Stack Audio to fit their armboards. It's 18mm long and 3M. So too large a diameter to fit the inserts in my arm board, and the Konne screws are too short to fit through the new sub-chassis, which is much thicker at the attachment point.
:doh:
Unfortunately a trip around Screwfix, ToolStation, B&Q and Halfords was unsuccessful. None of them having screws that small. So ebay it is. I've order three sets - Slot, Posidrive, and Allen - to see which works best.
I'm glad I went for the new base board. It's should be a lot better than the original bit of fibreboard it will replace.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/320x240q90/921/aekzZw.jpg
I also found that earplugs make the perfect bung for the bearing hole. :eyebrows:
Which all means it will be next weekend at the earliest before I have my turntable back up and running.
graham67
21-09-2019, 22:43
Hi Reggie,
I also use an AT OC-9 ml ii and like you used it with an AT-630. I also tried various other SUTs including the AT 650, Black Head, RFC and probably some others I have forgotten. Recently I stumbled upon two much better solutions. One being the Puresound T10, the current model with the 2 gain settings (the older model with 5 settings was no good with the OC-9). Second solution is a Denon HA-500 head amp. Both these step up options make the oc-9 sing with plenty of energy and presence. It sounds like a much more expensive cart.
The Denon has more leading edge attack and openness at the expense of a bit more surface noise and the T10 is a little smoother. Either are excellent and transform the OC-9 into a seriously good cart.
Graham
Thanks Graham. The AT-630 was the first step on my SUT journey. I currently have a Luxman AD8000 (with type 8020 SUT) fitted, and the sound is fabulous.
At the moment I'm concentrating on upgrades to the deck. I expect once I'm happy with that, I'll look at the amplification again - probably the MM stage.
Will follow this with interest. Lots of people seem to prefer the LP12 with no base board at all, had you tried that before going with the Stack Audio item?
Hi Matt, that's interesting. Removing the base board makes it a lot easier to adjust the suspension in-situ, so worth doing for that alone. One of the things I like about the Stack baseboard is that it has holes below the springs to allow adjustment when in-situ.
Let's just say - I'm engaging smug mode.
Everything is back together and the results are splendid.
First job of the day was to fit some rubber feet to my maintenance stand, which made things a little more stable. It still wobbles a little, but I'm in no fear that I'm going to have another near disaster with the deck falling through it. The feet also meant the frame was a little more floor friendly when I brought it into my listening room for some final adjustments. I also bought some soft floor panels which I used to protect surfaces - but most importantly my relationship with my wife who had not been impressed with me littering her table and cupboard surfaces with tools and bits and piece last week.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/320x240q90/923/sQiYkF.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/320x240q90/921/qZ20PT.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/320x240q90/923/csPvYe.jpg
Once that was done, I could get on with the main job of the day - fitting the arm board and completing the reassembly.
I decided to go with the allen headed screws as they were the least fiddly to fit. I had to shorten them a little for them to fit correctly. I chose to grind them as they were a little small to saw easily. First one went fine, but I got a little over-confident with the second and ground too much in one go - the result a big blob of melted metal on the end of the screw. Whoops. So a number of small gentle grindings and I got the next two to size quickly. Once they were the right length, fitting the armboard was straightforward.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/320x240q90/921/59dJ75.jpg
Once that was done, I checked everything was in place and started to fit the new base board. The first obvious thing was how many more screws were needed. The new board is much more securely screwed to the chassis than the old one. Then I noticed something - the hole the signal cable comes out was empty. Doh!. So I unscrewed the base board, and placed the tonearm cable in the right position and secured it. So much for checking everything.
With that done, it was time to get the platters and arm in, and start adjusting the deck. As I mentioned in an early post, the Stack Audio SERENE Baseboard has nicely positioned holes that allow access to the bottom of the suspension springs when in place and they did indeed make it so much easier to make adjustments. With the old board, it would have to be left off while the adjustments were made, and then be fitted as a last job, which was awkward.
https://stackaudio.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/serene-page-img5.png https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/320x240q90/922/dlgwlN.jpg
I got everything level and was feeling pleased with myself. It was time to get the deck fitted into my Hi-Fi. As soon as I did so I noticed something was wrong - the armboard was obviously too high in the deck.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/320x240q90/922/SRStxY.jpg
So the maintenance stand came into the listening room and I had a second go at adjusting things. Second time round and everything was much better. The platter was level and the armboard sat nicely in place, and when I tried the suspension it moved nice and freely and smoothly.
The last things to do were get the arm aligned vertically, and the down force corrected. That didn't take long and I was soon listening to my first LP of the afternoon.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/320x240q90/922/2UtRjf.jpg
The first LP was XTC Nonsuch, a fabulous record - one of my favourites. The very first thing I noticed (after my initial relief that I hadn't broken anything) was that the sound stage seem to have got narrower, but that at the same time, everything had become much more distinct within the sound stage. The more I listened, the more I came to the conclusion that instead of hearing the wide spread of sound I'm used to, I was hearing a much better distribution of individual instruments and voices within the sound stage. That is, if I was listening to a group of five musicians what I heard was a sound stage that was five musicians wide, rather that one that was "my hi-fi wide". That is, the width of the sound stage was much more defined by what was being played rather than how wide my hi-fi could spread the sound.
I also noticed that the backing vocal present in a number of the XTC tracks, was much more clearly separated from the main singer. The better separation of individuals became even more evident when I put on some opera: Verdi's Simon Boccanegra. On the first album side there are a number of individuals singing one after another, and it can be a little difficult to distinguish between the singers (well for a Luddite like me). Well no longer. This was interesting, because the separation is much more about clarity of tone rather than stereo effect. It shows it's not just imaging that's improved.
The more I listened, the more I appreciated the better clarity I seemed to be getting. The upper mids in particular seem to be a little sweater than I recall previously.
And then I turned my sub-woofer on. Well that started another bit of fun and games, as there is more bass and I found I needed to readjust the sub-woofer to get the balance better to my ears. To be honest, my sub-woofer is usually tucked in a spot that's convenient rather than being placed for best sonic results. Today, I had to get it out and put it front and centre which I don't think I've ever done before. I think I'll be doing that more often.
It's difficult to say if I'd have got similar result with either just the new base board, or the sub-frame (it's even possible that all that's happened is on re-assembly I've managed to better align my cartridge). A conclusion I can make - the base board for me is a no brainer. Being able to adjust the suspension with it in place makes things so much easier. And the quality of the board is way ahead of the original. But I'm sure the main factor improving the sound quality - the item adding the clarity - is the sub-frame. I'm really glad I brought both items.
Of course this may all be wishful thinking - I really ought to listen for a while and then swap all the old kit back in and compare the result - but at the moment I don't care if it's subjective or not - I'm just really enjoying the results of my labours.
A small update to my analogue journey: After a few visits to Mark at Ming-Da UK in Malvern I've bought myself an Audio Detail NV-06 Nuvistor Phono Stage (https://www.mingda.co.uk/audio-detail-nv-o6-nuvistor-phono-stage.html). The amp is Mark's design, and part of the Audio Detail range of kit that he is developing. I'm using a MM version with my Luxman AD8000 SUT. This amp is working really nicely with my AudioTechnica OC9ML/II, which means the AT has supplanted my Hana SL as my favourite cartridge.
Then David at MCRU sent me a Collaro Audio precision mat (https://collaroaudio.co.uk/) to try. I was impressed with the difference it made. It brightened the upper mids. Initially the effect was too much, with a tendency to a bit of sibilance creeping in. However, when I adjusted the VTA to better match the new mat, the sibilance disappeared, and I was left with better (to my ears) upper mids. However, after playing a few LPs I was getting a little static that was causing the mat to stick to the LP as I lifted it off. I found that annoying and wrote to David to that effect. The result was a little unexpected. I got an email from Colin of Collaro Audio, with an offer to swap the mat for a different one.
This week Colin came with a Tempest mat, which is a little thicker than the precision mat. This mat does not seem to cause the static issues I was getting with the precision mat.
The end result is that the new phono amp, the new mat, and the resulting VTA fettling is that my system is singing like it hasn't before. The noise floor has dropped, upper mids have improved, and I've got a big smile on my face.
So I think I'm where I want to be for a while with my analogue system.
I'm really pleased with the excellent service I've got from Mark at Ming-Da UK, David at MCRU, and Colin at Collaro. It's been a pleasure purchasing from each of them and their customer service has been excellent.
https://www.mingda.co.uk/wpimages/wpd8a7c65f_05_06.jpg
https://collaroaudio.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/The-Tempest-Transcription-Turntable-Mat-presentation-sleeve.jpg
I used to really enjoy playing around with my LP12's and built a couple from bits bought cheaply online. It's a great deck to strip and rebuild though some owners would have themselves believe that only LP12 'Gurus' as they like to call them are capable of getting a decent sound out of an LP12, there are users who pay the most respected of these 'Gurus' thousands to fly half way around the world to do what you've just done.
Hi Nat. I have surprised myself with how much I'd enjoyed fettling the LP12 so am not surprised that you and others find equal pleasure. I think the Guru status has in the past put me off Linn. As I've stated before, I ended up with the LP12 almost by accident. I am now so glad I got this deck because I've thoroughly enjoyed this process and love the way my deck now sounds. The funny thing is, I haven't got that far more to go until they'll be no genuine Linn left in it :)
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