View Full Version : Stiffness in bearings after tonearm rewire
mindarelus
24-03-2018, 16:23
Hi guys, basically I rewired my original tonearm, but then there is this problem.
When I do the bearing test, the tonearm always stay maximum outside position. And I have the feeling that the cables inside are too stiff. This is when you remove the cartridge, put weight maximum backwards, and the tonearm should move freely to the inner and outer points when you play with antiskating.
I got this cables:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ISOKINETIK-ISOTONE-CARDAS-REWIRE-KIT-FOR-TECHNICS-TURNTABLES-SL1200-SL1210-ETC/171140634010?epid=1339651086&hash=item27d8c6d59a:g:SDEAAOxyNSVSTDGe
I think the problem comes, because I didn't unsplit the internal wires. Do you unsplit them when you rewire the tonearm?
mindarelus
24-03-2018, 16:25
I never got this problem with the original wires, so the problem is not in the bearings. Although this is recommended mod, and these wires are also recommended, either I didn't do something right, or the wires are too stiff to be used.
Can anyone help on the subject?
Bigman80
24-03-2018, 16:31
I never got this problem with the original wires, so the problem is not in the bearings. Although this is recommended mod, and these wires are also recommended, either I didn't do something right, or the wires are too stiff to be used.
Can anyone help on the subject?Sounds like the wire isn't as flexible as necessary or it's stuck? Either way it's causing resistance. Personally, I use KAB superflex. No resistance in any way.
Stryder5
24-03-2018, 16:32
This cable is for the connection from the tonearm to the amplifier, not internal tonearm wire.
Do the cables you show simply plug into the base of the arm? If so, I can't see why the bearings of the arm should have become stiff.
Have you changed the wiring within the arm?
sq225917
24-03-2018, 16:57
If it's an external wire only and you fitted a plug ti tonearm base chances are the excess wire in the arm is fouling free movement.
moodybuilder
24-03-2018, 16:59
Looks like the cable goes from cart to amp so should be good are you sure it's not snagged or caught on something.
walpurgis
24-03-2018, 17:00
I hope you're not saying you split this wire and used it for an internal arm rewire.
mindarelus
24-03-2018, 17:05
Guys, this cable is with its internal part. for the tonearm rewire-ing. It contains both parts. The problem is it really does look stiff. I can't find super flex in ebay, can you send me a link where I can order 1 of those?
Bigman80
24-03-2018, 17:09
https://www.kabusa.com/frameset.htm?/superflex.htm
mindarelus
24-03-2018, 17:13
Thanks, found it in google. Actually I'm not sure if they make deliveries outside USA. Some link in amazon or ebay?
mindarelus
24-03-2018, 17:18
Btw, on my main question, when you rewire the tonearm do you unsplit the cables. (the inner wiring cables)
Stryder5
24-03-2018, 17:30
Btw, on my main question, when you rewire the tonearm do you unsplit the cables. (the inner wiring cables)
From your link I can see two cables, the blue one I assume is supposed to be the internal tonearm one. It looks too thick and stiff though. I can't see from the photo's the connection on the unterminated end.
From your link I can see two cables, the blue one I assume is supposed to be the internal tonearm one. It looks too thick and stiff though. I can't see from the photo's the connection on the unterminated end.
I think the blue wire (terminated with a croc-clip) is to earth the metalwork of the arm.
Stryder5
24-03-2018, 17:35
I think the blue wire (terminated with a croc-clip) is to earth the metalwork of the arm.
Thx, the other cable is far too thick, should have been split?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've just had a better look at the photo, and the unterminated signal leads are far too large to be used internally within the tone arm. No wonder the free movement of the bearings was being compromised.
The Kabusa wires as recommended by Bigman look to be perfect for tonearm re-wiring. (As well as being refreshingly free of 'techno-bollocks' as is often spouted by audio cable manufacturers.)
Bigman80
24-03-2018, 17:51
I've just had a better look at the photo, and the unterminated signal leads are far too large to be used internally within the tone arm. No wonder the free movement of the bearings was being compromised.
The Kabusa wires as recommended by Bigman look to be perfect for tonearm re-wiring. (As well as being refreshingly free of 'techno-bollocks' as is often spouted by audio cable manufacturers.)Absolutely spot on, Barry. I've had Kabusa in 3 arms now and Its absolutely excellent. I'm not getting into what's better etc. It fantastically priced and made by folk who have passion for technics rather than profits on The brain.
moodybuilder
24-03-2018, 18:31
Try splitting the cable which is how it should be
mindarelus
24-03-2018, 19:06
I will try, but if that doesn't work, I'll have to find a way to see is kabusa deliver outside the states.. pretty bad, because these cables were not cheap.
The blue wire is the ground.
Bigman80
24-03-2018, 19:28
I will try, but if that doesn't work, I'll have to find a way to see is kabusa deliver outside the states.. pretty bad, because these cables were not cheap.
The blue wire is the ground.They do.
mindarelus
25-03-2018, 09:58
Guys,
After taking out the tonearm today looking it very carefully, check that actually the wires are not compromising the free tonearm movements, and bring it back again, and still - the test not passed.
Well, after all it turned out it's a problem in the leveling the turntable. This test is if the turntable is perfectly aligned horizontally.
Thanks.
P.S. Now listening to Daft Punk and it sounds absolutely amazing with Denon DL-301MK2, although it's not the best match for technics tonearm, resonance frequency goes to around 7Hz but.. Not everything could be perfect.
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