suggested finish for mahogany plinth

[MarginWalker]

I have a solid mahogany plinth for my Thorens TD160 which is currently unfinished. Does anyone have any suggestions for a finishing method? I would like something that brings out the natural grain of the wood without it becoming too dark or shiny.

Thanks
Phil

[struth]

maybe a satin varnish, or just wax it ....

[Svend N]

Hi Phil,

I can make a few suggestions here:

Spray lacquer -- available in a spray can, this is a clear product and will not alter the colour of the wood; durable and maintenance free so no re-application needed. Drawback is that you have to be very uniform in applying your coats otherwise you may have unevenness. And you have to have the spray distance just right or else it will either dry before it hits the wood (too far away) or may have overlapping passes (too close). This could be tricky to apply and get pro results. You may have to buff with ultra-fine pumice or similar to remove dust and dimples.

Danish oil -- this is the easiest to apply as it is rubbed in by hand. It can look really beautiful on the right wood...mahogany should look great. It will be amber coloured so will darken the wood slightly. Will require several initial coats to build up a good finish. Polymerizes to a durable finish, but may require reapplication every few years, but this is quick and easy to do (lemon oil or teak oil refreshes these finishes nicely). If you use fine wet-dry sandpaper to apply, you can get a nice hand-rubbed smooth finish which will get rid of any wood fibres sticking up. Do not over-apply or you will get a gummy mess! Rub off all excess. There are similar products that have varnish blended in for an even more durable finish, but these can be tricky to apply smoothly as they start to get sticky very quickly and you can get streaks from your applicator pad. True Danish oil is easier in that it has a longer working time -- pretty much impossible to screw this up, unless you put on too much (don't say I didn't warn you :) )

Urethane rubbing varnish -- this is also easy to apply, as it's all done by hand rubbing. It's also amber coloured so will darken the wood, but less so than Danish oil. Very durable finish, does not need any maintenance. As with Danish oil, do not over-apply or you will get a gummy mess! Do very thin coats and immediately rub off all excess. Can be tricky to apply smoothly as it starts to cure very quickly and you can get streaks from your applicator pad. This is good stuff -- I have used it for several fine furniture projects where a tough finish was needed.

I wouldn't suggest using traditional brush-on varnishes as you may have a hard time getting a perfectly uniform coat -- use the wrong brush or the wrong product, or both, and you will see all the brush streaks....pretty amateur looking. OTOH, if you get a good self-levelling varnish and a high quality brush, it can look great. As Grant suggested, satin finish would be best as it will hide imperfections better. Whichever you decide on, I'd suggest practising on some scrap wood to see if it suits the look you're after, and to practise your technique and get used to working with the stuff.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you need more insight.

Best,
Svend

[MarginWalker]

Thanks for the advice. I think perhaps oil might be the best option as i have limited experience in this area. I think have some osmo top oil left over from when i put in some oak worktops. Is it safe to assume that this would also be OK on mahogany?

[struth]

just remember oil is a lot of work and many coats with drying time inbetween.

[Svend N]

The Osmo Top Oil is an oil-wax mixture, made for butcher blocks, cutting boards, bar tops, etc. It will certainly work, but whether it will give you a fine furniture type finish I can't say, as I've not used it. You may want to try it on a piece of scrap mahogany and see how you like it. If it looks too utilitarian, you could do a final coat with, say, teak oil or lemon oil to give it more sheen. Those are available in small amounts, so should be pretty cheap to come by.

Just a general comment - you've got a nice piece in that turntable, and have taken the time to make a new plinth out of beautiful wood. I wouldn't cut corners just to save a few pennies by using some leftover bar finish. But if the Osmo looks great, then by all means go for it. Test it first!

[MarginWalker]

just remember oil is a lot of work and many coats with drying time inbetween.

Cheers, Grant. Time is not going to be a problem. I am still waiting for the new dustcover so the Thoirns will be remaining in its original plinth for the moment.

[struth]

our geoff uses satin a lot and this is kinda how it looks

http://i67.tinypic.com/2pq6wlg.jpg

stays light and fairly flat

[The Alchemist]

Hi Phil,

I have had good results with Osmo Polyx 3032 clear satin. It does take a while to dry but will produce an excellent finish. It has the advantage of being very easy to make good if you get any minor marks or blemishes at a later date.

[MarginWalker]

The Osmo Top Oil is an oil-wax mixture, made for butcher blocks, cutting boards, bar tops, etc. It will certainly work, but whether it will give you a fine furniture type finish I can't say, as I've not used it. You may want to try it on a piece of scrap mahogany and see how you like it. If it looks too utilitarian, you could do a final coat with, say, teak oil or lemon oil to give it more sheen. Those are available in small amounts, so should be pretty cheap to come by.

Just a general comment - you've got a nice piece in that turntable, and have taken the time to make a new plinth out of beautiful wood. I wouldn't cut corners just to save a few pennies by using some leftover bar finish. But if the Osmo looks great, then by all means go for it. Test it first!

Thanks, Svend. I suppose your right - no point in fudging the job now. Perhaps the best option will be to get some danish oil and then wax afterwards

[MarginWalker]

this stuff could be good, i think...

https://www.osmouk.com/sitechaptern.cfm?bookid=Products&chapter=82&page=253#1101

it seems it can be bought in 5mm samples as well so i might get a couplem of those and test it out

[RothwellAudio]

My preferred finish is pretty similar to Svend's options 1 and 2. I like to use polyurethane varnish but thinned down with white spirit so it becomes an easy wipe-on oil. About 2 parts varnish to 1 part white spirit is a good starting point - a bit more white spirit if you want it thinner or a bit less if you want it thicker. I prefer it too thin than too thick. One part varnish to one part white spirit is very thin and easy to use. Just put another coat on (after it has dried properly) to get it thicker rather than put one thick coat on. I use clear gloss varnish. It actually doesn't give a very glossy finish at all once you've thinned it, but you can always knock back the gloss with fine wire wool if you like.

BTW, I don't like wax at all. It always feels slightly tacky to me.

[MarginWalker]

Hi Phil,

I have had good results with Osmo Polyx 3032 clear satin. It does take a while to dry but will produce an excellent finish. It has the advantage of being very easy to make good if you get any minor marks or blemishes at a later date.

Thanks, Richard. As i said im happy to take the time to get the right finish. I wondered if this stuff...

https://www.osmouk.com/sitechaptern.cfm?bookid=Products&chapter=82&page=253#1101

might work well.

[Svend N]

this stuff could be good, i think...

https://www.osmouk.com/sitechaptern.cfm?bookid=Products&chapter=82&page=253#1101

it seems it can be bought in 5mm samples as well so i might get a couplem of those and test it out

That could be very nice, Phil. Definitely worth a try.

Your idea of Danish oil and a fine wax topcoat would also work great. I use a very nice beeswax from the UK which gives a beautiful sheen.

Or Andrew's suggestion of thinned urethane. Great idea, Andrew, I must try that some time.

All good options for you.

As this isn't a high-wear piece like a table top, you aren't restricted to only durable tough finishes, but can use whatever looks best to your eye.

[Svend N]

My preferred finish is pretty similar to Svend's options 1 and 2. I like to use polyurethane varnish but thinned down with white spirit so it becomes an easy wipe-on oil. About 2 parts varnish to 1 part white spirit is a good starting point - a bit more white spirit if you want it thinner or a bit less if you want it thicker. I prefer it too thin than too thick. One part varnish to one part white spirit is very thin and easy to use. Just put another coat on (after it has dried properly) to get it thicker rather than put one thick coat on. I use clear gloss varnish. It actually doesn't give a very glossy finish at all once you've thinned it, but you can always knock back the gloss with fine wire wool if you like.

BTW, I don't like wax at all. It always feels slightly tacky to me.

Another great polishing agent is Rottenstone, which sounds repulsive, but actually works great. It is extremely fine pumice-type material. Use it with a light oil for final polishing -- works exceedingly well.

As for wax, have you tried a fine furniture-grade beeswax? I find that it cures to a very dry, hard finish, not at all sticky or tacky. I use a product from the UK -- can't recall the brand but can look for you if you like.

[MarginWalker]

I'll try a few options on some scrap and will put some pictures up of the finished plinth once i have made a decision. Thanks for all the help guys!

[MarginWalker]

Another great polishing agent is Rottenstone, which sounds repulsive, but actually works great. It is extremely fine pumice-type material. Use it with a light oil for final polishing -- works exceedingly well.

As for wax, have you tried a fine furniture-grade beeswax? I find that it cures to a very dry, hard finish, not at all sticky or tacky. I use a product from the UK -- can't recall the brand but can look for you if you like.

If you get a chance it would be great to know which brand of beeswax you use. Thanks!

[The Alchemist]

I've not used Osmo 1101 so I can't say anything about it. Best get samples of all prospective products and give them a try! I can tell you that when the Osmo oil that I use is dry it is not sticky at all. If you do decide to use oil I recommend that you apply it very sparingly with a microfibre cloth. That way you will get a great finish.

[Svend N]

If you get a chance it would be great to know which brand of beeswax you use. Thanks!

Goddard's Cabinet Maker's Wax, in paste form (I think this also comes as a spray).

[Svend N]

I've not used Osmo 1101 so I can't say anything about it. Best get samples of all prospective products and give them a try! I can tell you that when the Osmo oil that I use is dry it is not sticky at all. If you do decide to use oil I recommend that you apply it very sparingly with a microfibre cloth. That way you will get a great finish.

+1

[RothwellAudio]

Another great polishing agent is Rottenstone, which sounds repulsive, but actually works great. It is extremely fine pumice-type material. Use it with a light oil for final polishing -- works exceedingly well.
Yes, I've used fine pumice as an abrasive for french polishing - I agree it's good stuff.

As for wax, have you tried a fine furniture-grade beeswax? I find that it cures to a very dry, hard finish, not at all sticky or tacky. I use a product from the UK -- can't recall the brand but can look for you if you like.
The only wax I've had much experience with was beeswax. Perhaps I should persevere with it and find out how to get the best from it.

[struth]

Nathan "nuff" did a heybrook in solid wood and then danished it... looked a million dollars.. he might still have pics of it and info on how he applied it

[MarginWalker]

Nathan "nuff" did a heybrook in solid wood and then danished it... looked a million dollars.. he might still have pics of it and info on how he applied it

I remeber seeing that, Grant. It did look great. I've gone back to try and find it and the pictures are no longer there. Curse you PhotoBucket!

[walpurgis]

our geoff uses satin a lot and this is kinda how it looks

http://i67.tinypic.com/2pq6wlg.jpg

stays light and fairly flat

I also did these KEFs with Rustins Satin Varnish, followed by a waxing.

http://i63.tinypic.com/t4xmkl.jpg

[Svend N]

Andrew -- perhaps it depends what the wax is being applied over? If a partially-cured oil finish, or say, lemon oil which never seems to cure, or a silicone furniture "polish" (vile stuff), then I could see beeswax causing problems. But it should be fine over lacquer, varnish, shellac, or fully cured Danish oil. Worth looking into...

Phil -- we want pictures! :D Do post some before and after pics and show us how it turns out.

BTW, if you go with oil, then you should probably buff out the first coat after its cured to remove any wood hairs and such. Wait a day to cure, then use 0000 steel wool.

Good luck with this! Sounds like a great project.

[MarginWalker]

I also did these KEFs with Rustins Satin Varnish, followed by a waxing.

http://i63.tinypic.com/t4xmkl.jpg

They look great but i'm terrified of using varnish and leaving brush marks everywhere. I feel my skill level is much better suited to a cloth application!

[walpurgis]

They look great but i'm terrified of using varnish and leaving brush marks everywhere

I don't use a brush. It's water based varnish and I apply it with a pad of damp household wipes. Very easy and no streaks. A little practise on spare wood will work wonders too.

[Svend N]

I don't use a brush. It's water based varnish and I apply it with a pad of damp household wipes. Very easy and no streaks. A little practise on spare wood will work wonders too.

Interesting option -- do you have any issues with it raising the grain, being water based? Needs sanding between coats?

[struth]

yeah i use a cotton filled swab for lots of these jobs like shellac. fill a lint free cloth with cotton wool and it loads up liquid in the cotton and squeeze gently as you apply. its the right way actually and using the pad of wipes is very similar, although not tried it... but will now :eyebrows:

[struth]

Interesting option -- do you have any issues with it raising the grain, being water based? Needs sanding between coats?

i raise it with water and let it dry. then use old fine paper to just get the rise off and no more. it then shouldnt rise again much

[walpurgis]

Interesting option -- do you have any issues with it raising the grain, being water based? Needs sanding between coats?

No probs with loosened wood fibres as long as the surface is prepared well first. No sanding required between coats, although one coat is often enough.

It's touch dry within half an hour and a second coat can go on within an hour. Application of good wax finishes the job.

Simply apply following the grain and any excess that goes over edges can be wiped off with a finger without leaving marks.

I used to french polish cabinet work, but this is easier and looks every bit as good.

[walpurgis]

i raise it with water and let it dry. then use old fine paper to just get the rise off and no more. it then shouldnt rise again much

I've also used fine wire wool, followed by a fine (red) Scotchbrite pad, then flour paper (ultra fine sandpaper).

[Ian7633]

I'm actually using Rustins quick dry satin varnish at the moment, I'm applying it with lint free cloth in thin coats. Drying time is very fast and a light sanding between costs is all I'm doing. This is with 3 coats so far, I'm aiming for 10 for depth of finish. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180214/1c54fdf920f5bda1de8c706cd62f3f67.jpg

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

[walpurgis]

Good stuff innit? :)

[Svend N]

No probs with loosened wood fibres as long as the surface is prepared well first. No sanding required between coats, although one coat is often enough.

It's touch dry within half an hour and a second coat can go on within an hour. Application of good wax finishes the job.

Simply apply following the grain and any excess that goes over edges can be wiped off with a finger without leaving marks.

I used to french polish cabinet work, but this is easier and looks every bit as good.


Nice! I will have to try this some time. I've used some water based aniline stains in the past, and always had raised grain. I'd dampen the wood with distilled water first to raise it, let dry, then sand lightly, then stain. PITA.

Phil -- lots of options here. Let us know what you choose and how it goes.

[Ian7633]

It's nice and smooth to apply and is giving a real depth without going too shiny. A couple more coats today and then it's decal time and then more varnish. Another good thing is being water based there's no evil fumes.

[walpurgis]

Rustins Satin Varnish is not necessarily a stain, although at can be obtained in various shades, I generally use clear.

[MarginWalker]

i found some images of mahogany boxes treated with danish oil on a woodworking forum. The results look good to me so I'm tempted to go with this

http://i64.tinypic.com/n69rox.jpg

http://i63.tinypic.com/2ah9p2w.jpg

[walpurgis]

Just remember. You can't apply alternative finishes to oiled wood, should you decide you're not keen on the appearance. Lacquer, french polish and varnishes won't take properly and may react. Especially if the oiling is recent. A solvent clean may help, but there's no guarantee.

[MarginWalker]

Just remember. You can't apply alternative finishes to oiled wood, should you decide you're not keen on the appearance. Lacquer, french polish and varnishes won't take properly and may react. Especially if the oiling is recent. A solvent clean may help, but there's no guarantee.

Thanks, Geoff. I'll be trying it on a piece of scrap first to see how it looks

[walpurgis]

Thanks, Geoff. I'll be trying it on a piece of scrap first to see how it looks

Sensible move! :)

[RothwellAudio]

There's a danger of over-thinking this and getting option paranoia. Most of the oily stuff on the market is basically the same, or at least on the same oily spectrum. At one end of the spectrum you have raw linseed oil. It's dead easy to use - you just wipe it on - but there's very little build to the surface and it takes a long time to dry. Next is boiled linseed oil, which is raw linseed oil which has been treated and has some additives to make it dry quicker. Then there's oil (probably linseed, though possibly tung or a blend of various things) with resins added to give the finish more build (or body, or thickness, or whatever you want to call it). This stuff is called varnish. It could have lots of resin in it, or it could have a little. Different brands have their own formulas and they're all slightly different, but they're all variations on a theme. One of the most common resin additives is polyurethane - hence polyurethane varnish - but the varnish is still an oil-based product. Of course, the companies that make these products have marketing departments and they've cottoned-on to the fact that the word "polyurethane" makes people think "chemical", whereas the word "oil" makes people think "natural". That's why there are so many products on the market which are called Such-And-Such Oil, as if they're somehow natural and wholesome. Try drinking the stuff and see how wholesome it is :lol: Anyway, products like Tru-Oil are actually very similar to polyurethane varnish. For what you have in mind I think you could take any of "oil" products and just wipe it on. Job done. You could also do the same with an oil-based varnish as long as you thin it a bit with white spirit to make it more wipeable.

The water-based stuff is completely different. It's the stuff which is labelled as fast drying and low odor. Obviously, they're attractive properties and water based varnishes are less environmentally unfriendly, don't stink the house out and it's a lot easier to clean brushes and pots afterwards. However, personally, I don't think they look as good or feel as good as oil-based varnishes.

There are loads more options (wax, shellac etc.) and possible combinations of different materials, but Danish Oil is probably as good as any for your job.
Good luck with the project :)

[MarginWalker]

Thanks for the input everyone. I am heading out to Brewers today for Danish oil, rubber gloves, cloths and wire wool and will hopefully get this done over the weekend.

[Svend N]

Sounds good Phil. Make sure you get very fine wire wool -- 0000 grade works well. Anything coarser and you will get scratches and take too much of the finish off.

Let us know how you get on with it. Best of luck!

[Svend N]

One further tip: I mentioned wet sanding the first coat of Danish oil, but neglected to mention that this actually helps fill the grain and gives a much smoother finish. The end result, after several subsequent coats, is that the wood will look and feel smoother. OTOH, if you want a more open-grain look, then skip that step and just buff with fine steel wool between coats.

[RothwellAudio]

... this actually helps fill the grain and gives a much smoother finish.

Yikes, don't start talking about grain filling - that's a whole other can of worms you're opening there :eek:

[struth]

Yikes, don't start talking about grain filling - that's a whole other can of worms you're opening there :eek:

Lol, yes that is advanced... and a lot of work to do right although worth it if your using an open pore wood and you want a super smooth finish

[Svend N]

Oh boy, are we risking putting Phil into information overload here? TBH, yes grain filling is a bit of work, but with Danish oil wet sanding it's pretty easy to do. Just time consuming is all. But Phil's piece is pretty small, so shouldn't be that big a deal. You can also get off-the-shelf grain fillers, but I'm not sure if they are compatible with Danish oil. In any case, using wet sanding at least the grain is filled with particles of the same wood, and not artificial solids. Looks much better, IMO. In any case, Phil can always to it at a later date, as Danish oil is so easy to work with.

Sorry Phil, didn't mean to push you over the edge here :eek: Keep it simple and enjoy the process -- this is very satisfying work to do.

[MarginWalker]

While i'm not looking to create extra work for myself, I am keen to get the best finish possible. Would i simply put some of the oil onto the sandpaper and apply using that? If so that doesn't seem like much extra effort.
What grit paper would i need to use for a job like this?

[struth]

If you don't want to change the colour the linseed oil mixed with spirit is best. A light coat and then sand it to produce dust then pack it with a cloth to get it into the pores. You should do this s few times. Usually don't wipe off first time but as I say it's advanced stuff to get right. You could try it on a scrap piece that has pours. If you want to highlight the pores which. Am be nice then just use a darker oil like danish thinned down. Worth experimenting several times tho

[Svend N]

Phil, here's a great description of how to work with Danish oil, including wet sanding (only the section on oil finishes applies to you):

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/rub_to_create_a_great_finish

This method is different from what I have done, but actually seems even easier and less time consuming. Follow these directions carefully and you should get an excellent result. They even reference European grades of sandpaper, which will help you get the right stuff.

He gives some good advice on letting the coats cure overnight, and not following the directions on some cans that say you can reapply within an hour.

Good luck!

[struth]

tbh its another good reason to use the water based satin finish as first coat will fill it. just give it a fairly firm sand back on first coat.. a lot easier for you

[RothwellAudio]

I am keen to get the best finish possible.
This is really the source of your dilemma. There is no "best" finish. There are lots and lots of different ways to finish wood and they each have their merits. In the end the aesthetics are a matter of taste and choice. A simple, open-pored, oil finish can look great on some things but not on others, or one person might think it looks great and another thinks it looks terrible. A simple oil finish on a Steinway grand would look terrible imo. A high gloss "piano finish" on a salad bowl would look equally bad. It's really a question of what you like and what you want rather than what's "best".

[nuff]

Nathan "nuff" did a heybrook in solid wood and then danished it... looked a million dollars.. he might still have pics of it and info on how he applied it


I remeber seeing that, Grant. It did look great. I've gone back to try and find it and the pictures are no longer there. Curse you PhotoBucket!

Heres a few photos of the Heybrook TT2 i did a few years back. 2014 i think it was. The timber used was American black walnut.
All i did was rub a dark mahogany stain into the grain then sand it off while it was still wet, I did this so the dark stain would stay in the deep grain but not on the surface. I then applied Danish oil (maybe 3-4 coats) with a lint free cloth rubbing down with 400 grit aluminium oxide paper in between coats.
It did look great especially when the sun hit the grain. It almost looked 3d at times.

http://i68.tinypic.com/6sql2b.jpg

http://i64.tinypic.com/nb828y.jpg

http://i64.tinypic.com/4hs7zt.jpg

This is a shot after the first coat i do believe
http://i65.tinypic.com/2vxev03.jpg

[struth]

was a lovely job Nathan.

[nuff]

was a lovely job Nathan.

It was Grant, I was stupid to sell it but hey ho.

[struth]

we all move on mate. sold mine too...the thorens.:)

[nuff]

we all move on mate. sold mine too...the thorens.:)

I remember it well mate, A very nice example it was too..

[struth]

Hear is a pic I found of it..

https://imageshack.com/a/img907/4470/DiGkNe.jpg

cant find any better ones at mo lol

[karma67]

class!

[nuff]

Nice Grant, very nice indeed.

[MarginWalker]

First coat of Danish oil done and it's looking really good (so far not as professional as Nathan or Grant's but good nonetheless). Will steel wool (0000) have the same effect as using 400 grit aluminium oxide paper between coats?

Nathan - did you apply any way to your plinth after the final coat or did you just buff it to that sheen?

[Svend N]

400 grit paper works through cutting action of the sharp edges of the tiny particles of, well, grit. It will "cut" into the surface, but only a tiny amount due to the fine grit. Steel wool will act more by abrasion rather than cutting, which with the fine 0000 grade will be like giving it a buffing. I would say the 400 grit paper will give a smoother finish, esp if you wet sand as in the article.

Great to hear it's turning out well for you.

Svend

[struth]

i often start with grit then go to wool. but if using real wire wool make sure you watch out fot fine bit being left on project. does give a nice finish tho. last one i usually use pummice powder

[MarginWalker]

i often start with grit then go to wool. but if using real wire wool make sure you watch out fot fine bit being left on project. does give a nice finish tho. last one i usually use pummice powder

Cheers Grant - is it on the final finish that ypou use pummice powder or the penultimate finish before the final application.

[MarginWalker]

400 grit paper works through cutting action of the sharp edges of the tiny particles of, well, grit. It will "cut" into the surface, but only a tiny amount due to the fine grit. Steel wool will act more by abrasion rather than cutting, which with the fine 0000 grade will be like giving it a buffing. I would say the 400 grit paper will give a smoother finish, esp if you wet sand as in the article.

Great to hear it's turning out well for you.


Svend

Thanks Svend. I'll give the fisrt couple off coats a light sanding in between before moving onto the steel wool and then potentially pummice powder/rottenstone

[nuff]

First coat of Danish oil done and it's looking really good (so far not as professional as Nathan or Grant's but good nonetheless). Will steel wool (0000) have the same effect as using 400 grit aluminium oxide paper between coats?

Nathan - did you apply any way to your plinth after the final coat or did you just buff it to that sheen?

Hi Phil,

I can't really recall what I did on the final coat but I think I just rubbed lightly with the 400 grit then waxed with a bees wax furniture wax I had in the cupboard.
The finish was very smooth and looked very nice indeed.

[Svend N]

Thanks Svend. I'll give the fisrt couple off coats a light sanding in between before moving onto the steel wool and then potentially pummice powder/rottenstone

Sounds good Phil. If you're sanding between coats anyway, why not try wet sanding the second coat? Sorry to keep banging away about this, but it really does give a beautiful smooth finish. Highly recommended, and easy to do.

Don't forget to post some pictures :)

[Svend N]

Nathan, that TT2 of yours looks fantastic! Nice job. How did the walnut armboard sound, compared to the original plywood one? Did you notice any difference? I'm thinking of making one up for my TT2, but in a blond wood like birds eye or curly maple. According to Shane they did a bunch of testing of armboard materials and the 2-layer 9mm birch ply sounded best. Not sure if they tested solid hardwoods though.

Cheers,
Svend

[MarginWalker]

Sounds good Phil. If you're sanding between coats anyway, why not try wet sanding the second coat? Sorry to keep banging away about this, but it really does give a beautiful smooth finish. Highly recommended, and easy to do.

Don't forget to post some pictures :)

I will do just that Svend!

[nuff]

Nathan, that TT2 of yours looks fantastic! Nice job. How did the walnut armboard sound, compared to the original plywood one? Did you notice any difference? I'm thinking of making one up for my TT2, but in a blond wood like birds eye or curly maple. According to Shane they did a bunch of testing of armboard materials and the 2-layer 9mm birch ply sounded best. Not sure if they tested solid hardwoods though.

Cheers,
Svend

Thank you Svend!

I'll be honest and say to my ears I didn't notice any difference! There possibly could have been but I never heard it.
I've owned 3 TT2's 2 of which were standard and the one above but to me they all sounded the same. Sorry but it's the truth :o

[Svend N]

Thank you Svend!

I'll be honest and say to my ears I didn't notice any difference! There possibly could have been but I never heard it.
I've owned 3 TT2's 2 of which were standard and the one above but to me they all sounded the same. Sorry but it's the truth :o

Nathan, no need to apologize! Actually that's good news, as it means I can probably use solid hardwood for a new armboard. I have lots of odd pieces of black walnut, cherry and maple lying around in the workshop, so I'm sure to find one that will suit. BTW, my TT2 has a black plinth, which seems to be rather uncommon. A nice blond birds-eye maple, or even cherry, would look sharp as an armboard and would contrast the black nicely. Summer project... :)

[MarginWalker]

Getting there with this. Maybe one more coat before waxing it...

http://i63.tinypic.com/4zvll4.jpg

http://i65.tinypic.com/20qved.jpg

[Svend N]

Looking great Phil! Nice depth of colour there. How'd the surface texture turn out? Nice and smooth?

I see that you have the requisite sustaining beverages close at hand :D. No job started without it....

[struth]

grain has come up well :)

[MarginWalker]

Thanks guys, I’m really pleased with how it’s looking and it feels beautifully smooth. The process is actually quite addictive, might need to make a new plinth for my Trio KD-1033 too!

[MarginWalker]

I'm sure there are members who will disagree with me but that beautifully smooth feel may be lost if you wax it. My experience is that wax always feels slightly soft and tacky - which is what wax is.

Hmm, I was planning on using a light spray of this ...

https://www.amazon.com/Goddards-Cabinet-Makers-Fine-Spray/dp/B001AH7EQA

just to bring up the shine.

[struth]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Liberon-BBLWCL500-500ml-Bison-Liquid/dp/B0017RO02O/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1519642703&sr=1-2-fkmr0&keywords=Bison+Liquid+Wax
this is good,
and i use this as a top up

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002WJ8WHK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

your one looks very good too..not seen it b4

[struth]

https://www.goddardsshop.co.uk/goddards-cabinet-makers-wax-spray.html?gclid=CjwKCAiA_c7UBRAjEiwApCZi8VA0J8ldC 8WbwSLxdpa9AA2phLG8WjvdFQjKKyjA3fu8r2eP3Mx1BhoC87Y QAvD_BwE

cheaper here

[Svend N]

Phil, I'm pretty sure the Goddard product will not be sticky. I've used the paste version of that Cabinet Maker's Wax, and it has never been sticky on anything. I quickly glanced through a few Amazon reviews and the comments seem to agree. If you're in doubt, try a spritz on a piece of finished scrap wood and see how it turns out. It will be important to REALLY buff it out thoroughly and don't leave a heavy layer on. Don't be afraid to really lay into it -- no matter how hard you rub, you will always leave a thin coat of wax on....pretty much impossible to buff too hard. Also, make sure to let the Danish oil fully cure for a few days before you wax.

[MarginWalker]

Thanks Grant - i have ordered some from there to try out. I dropped the Thorens into its new plinth last night and took the chance to upgrade the RCA connectors with something better qualiuty and better shielded. Just waiting for the new dust cover and my new DAC to arrive and I will be able to sit back and enjoy it before i get started on the next project!

http://i65.tinypic.com/aln14h.jpg

[struth]

looks nice. very good decks.. need a thick base too

[MarginWalker]

Cheers, Grant. I replaced the base board with a nice thick piece of MDF with holes drilled so i can access the suspension. Overall i'm pretty pleased with it - its certainly an improvement on the chipboard and damaged veneer.